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Kyramtruck99

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Anyone have pics of leveled limited? Getting 305’s put on right now and really want to know performance on leveling a limited and ride!
 

fact mechanic

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Still messing with and testing some different things, but the sneak preview is that the daystar level is installed along with the new UCAs from the Mopar 2” kit. All air ride modes work, but OR2 makes some seriously sketchy geometry, as in UCA maybe hitting airbag at full droop and wheel speed sensor cable being stretched tight kinds of sketchy.

Still adjusting. Will report more when have it all dialed in.
 

clazer

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Still messing with and testing some different things, but the sneak preview is that the daystar level is installed along with the new UCAs from the Mopar 2” kit. All air ride modes work, but OR2 makes some seriously sketchy geometry, as in UCA maybe hitting airbag at full droop and wheel speed sensor cable being stretched tight kinds of sketchy.

Still adjusting. Will report more when have it all dialed in.

Did you do the install of the arms and Daystar or have a shop do it? Made my links yesterday and am currently looking for a dealer to put in the Daystar kit that’s sitting in the floorboard.
 

natew51

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Still messing with and testing some different things, but the sneak preview is that the daystar level is installed along with the new UCAs from the Mopar 2” kit. All air ride modes work, but OR2 makes some seriously sketchy geometry, as in UCA maybe hitting airbag at full droop and wheel speed sensor cable being stretched tight kinds of sketchy.

Still adjusting. Will report more when have it all dialed in.

Do you happen to have the Mopar p/n for the UCA's? My dealer isn't always the brightest and makes my life a lot easier if I come with a p/n in hand. Thanks!!
 

clazer

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Do you happen to have the Mopar p/n for the UCA's? My dealer isn't always the brightest and makes my life a lot easier if I come with a p/n in hand. Thanks!!

These are what I ordered and all of the other threads reference that I could find. Also some varying opinions over whether they help or are necessary, but for $120 who cares.

Mopar lift kit upper control arms 68323530AA
68323531AA

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I couldn’t find them going directly through the mopar site. Had to go to the other mopar part dealers online.
 

rsmeanie

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Well I ordered the Revel links today. I got the set of four so I can also lower the rear a little. I have the Daystar blocks in the garage already but may hold off installing them depending on how well the links work out. I'll keep checking here for updates.
 

fact mechanic

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Do you happen to have the Mopar p/n for the UCA's? My dealer isn't always the brightest and makes my life a lot easier if I come with a p/n in hand. Thanks!!
I have 68323530AA for the right UCA and 68323531AA for the left UCA.
 

fact mechanic

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These are what I ordered and all of the other threads reference that I could find. Also some varying opinions over whether they help or are necessary, but for $120 who cares.

Mopar lift kit upper control arms 68323530AA
68323531AA

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I couldn’t find them going directly through the mopar site. Had to go to the other mopar part dealers online.

If you go to the Mopar parts page for the 2” lift kit and click on the installation instructions at the bottom, it shows the part numbers for the individual parts in the kit.

 

fact mechanic

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Did you do the install of the arms and Daystar or have a shop do it? Made my links yesterday and am currently looking for a dealer to put in the Daystar kit that’s sitting in the floorboard.
Had a shop with access to the RAM diagnostic equipment do the whole thing. Getting the links and air ride settings dialed in was the hardest part and it helped that he could adjust things through the computer settings as well as physically with the links.

Front went up 2” and rear stayed same height as stock after install. Air ride is a little finicky with the self leveling, but we’re within 1/4” from left to right with the left being lower. Guessing it might have something to do with the time we measured and the amount of gas in the fuel tank, which is on the left. But we’re still messing with it.
 

fact mechanic

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Still messing with and testing some different things, but the sneak preview is that the daystar level is installed along with the new UCAs from the Mopar 2” kit. All air ride modes work, but OR2 makes some seriously sketchy geometry, as in UCA maybe hitting airbag at full droop and wheel speed sensor cable being stretched tight kinds of sketchy.

Still adjusting. Will report more when have it all dialed in.
For a quick update, had some really weird issues with OR2 and the UCA almost touching the airbag even on level ground. Couldn’t even get a part of a pinky finger between them. Maybe not a big deal because maybe that’s at a stop and as far as it would ever go, but I don’t know that yet and don’t want to find out the hard way by crushing my airbag. So have not been driving in OR2 at all.

To give everything else a stress test, have put a couple hundred miles on it with a combination of aero, normal, and OR1 on highway, in town, and on some torn up gravel roads in the forest. Ride in aero is like old normal. Kinda squishy for a truck in my opinion, but a super smooth ride. Normal now is like what I imagine an OR 0.5 would be. Not as stiff as OR1 and not as squishy as normal. In between. I think it is perfect now for driving around. OR1 is a little stiffer than it was before but not quite as stiff as OR2 used to be. Which is not what I expected. I was afraid it would be really stiff, but it’s not bad. Have not tried OR2 due to the issues mentioned above. But, after all of this driving and running through a bunch of cycles, OR2 on level ground now has about a finger width of space between the air bag and the UCA. No idea what’s going on there. Still keeping an eye on it. Wish I would have checked that when everything was still stock to see what the amount of space used to be so I could tell if this is any different now.

This is still with the factory wheels and tires. I wanted to be able to see what difference in ride was due solely to the level. Then if my ride changes with new tires, I know it’s the tires and not the level. New tires go on probably next week if I can find some time.

After 100 miles, rechecked the nuts on top and got about 40-60 degrees of a turn out of them when torquing them back to spec. Probably fine, but we’re going to give it another 100 miles or so and shake it some more and recheck just to be sure.
 

clazer

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Had a shop with access to the RAM diagnostic equipment do the whole thing. Getting the links and air ride settings dialed in was the hardest part and it helped that he could adjust things through the computer settings as well as physically with the links.

Front went up 2” and rear stayed same height as stock after install. Air ride is a little finicky with the self leveling, but we’re within 1/4” from left to right with the left being lower. Guessing it might have something to do with the time we measured and the amount of gas in the fuel tank, which is on the left. But we’re still messing with it.

Great - messing with the link length is pretty time consuming so the programmer has to be a big help. On my truck’s pre-install measurements, it was about 1/4” off of even already.
 

thcmas35

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For a quick update, had some really weird issues with OR2 and the UCA almost touching the airbag even on level ground. Couldn’t even get a part of a pinky finger between them.
Keep us updated on what you see. I had the Daystar spacer put on in May on my off-road (no OR2 option) Limited. I kept stock UCA's in. I saw the truck up on the lift and the UCA's touching the airbag, but when it was back on the ground there was a ton of space. I went out and looked at my truck again last night and checked the different levels again to make sure. I can get my hand in easily with tons of back and forth play between the UCA and the airbag. I am also sitting on 305/55/20 (33x12.5) tires, so perhaps that is helping with the angle?
 

rsmeanie

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Keep us updated on what you see. I had the Daystar spacer put on in May on my off-road (no OR2 option) Limited. I kept stock UCA's in. I saw the truck up on the lift and the UCA's touching the airbag, but when it was back on the ground there was a ton of space. I went out and looked at my truck again last night and checked the different levels again to make sure. I can get my hand in easily with tons of back and forth play between the UCA and the airbag. I am also sitting on 305/55/20 (33x12.5) tires, so perhaps that is helping with the angle?

thcmas35 - This is off subject but I just noticed you have the exact wheels I've been looking at. Do you have any other pics posted somewhere from different angles? I'd love to see more. Thanks!
 

thcmas35

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thcmas35 - This is off subject but I just noticed you have the exact wheels I've been looking at. Do you have any other pics posted somewhere from different angles? I'd love to see more. Thanks!

Here is the post I did when I put them on in May. My wife and I have received lots of compliments on them. I looked all winter at black wheels and switched to grey last minute when I found these. Uploaded several pics here:
 

Dr Teeth

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For a quick update, had some really weird issues with OR2 and the UCA almost touching the airbag even on level ground. Couldn’t even get a part of a pinky finger between them. Maybe not a big deal because maybe that’s at a stop and as far as it would ever go, but I don’t know that yet and don’t want to find out the hard way by crushing my airbag. So have not been driving in OR2 at all.

To give everything else a stress test, have put a couple hundred miles on it with a combination of aero, normal, and OR1 on highway, in town, and on some torn up gravel roads in the forest. Ride in aero is like old normal. Kinda squishy for a truck in my opinion, but a super smooth ride. Normal now is like what I imagine an OR 0.5 would be. Not as stiff as OR1 and not as squishy as normal. In between. I think it is perfect now for driving around. OR1 is a little stiffer than it was before but not quite as stiff as OR2 used to be. Which is not what I expected. I was afraid it would be really stiff, but it’s not bad. Have not tried OR2 due to the issues mentioned above. But, after all of this driving and running through a bunch of cycles, OR2 on level ground now has about a finger width of space between the air bag and the UCA. No idea what’s going on there. Still keeping an eye on it. Wish I would have checked that when everything was still stock to see what the amount of space used to be so I could tell if this is any different now.

This is still with the factory wheels and tires. I wanted to be able to see what difference in ride was due solely to the level. Then if my ride changes with new tires, I know it’s the tires and not the level. New tires go on probably next week if I can find some time.

After 100 miles, rechecked the nuts on top and got about 40-60 degrees of a turn out of them when torquing them back to spec. Probably fine, but we’re going to give it another 100 miles or so and shake it some more and recheck just to be sure.
Do you have any more updates? I have a Laramie with air suspension and the ORG. I'm thinking of copying what you've done, but I want to be sure that there won't be any problems first.
 

fact mechanic

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I’ve been slammed at work and haven’t gotten to finish with new rims and tires yet, so in my mind my project is still going.

But, as for what has been done so far, I have not had any problems and this is my daily driver in town and on the highway. I probably have over a thousand miles on it with the level at this point. Everything seems fine mechanically and I still love the ride.
 

Dr Teeth

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Thanks for the reply. I know you said that after settling in a bit you gained more clearance between the UCAs and the air springs. Do you still have the issue with the wheel speed sensor being tight or has that resolved too?
 

dakmary

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Are the Mopar UCA required as well or just something you're doing in addition?

Has anyone installed the 1” rear spacer as well? If so, what are the pros/cons?

I’d like to know that too. Using Revel links and Daystar, I’m thinking of lifting the front by 2.5” and the rear by 1”. All in, I might still have 1” difference, which I’m fine with.
 

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