@IvoryHemi ok, I thought I saw in the manual they should be generally parallel to the trailer frame. Can’t seem to find it now. I know they won’t be perfect but mine are under a significant amount of tension. They are bent upward quite a bit.
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The manual for my WDH specifically states bars should be parallelThe WDH bars shouldn’t be parallel to the camper frame.
Here you can see my bars vs the rear of my camper frame that sits perfectly level
The bars need downward force
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I would warn everyone here on the forum that you will not be told by a dealer to buy a 2500 or 3500 .. most simply use the guide and everyone thinks great ... unfortunately max tow weight although is great just doesn’t allow for real world payload. Yep I’m also one who should have done more homework and relied less on dealer.. a 3500 is in my future or a F350. Due to the lack of dealer knowledge or outright deception I bought ac3600 pound travel trailer with a 450 tongue weight to be sure I was well under payload. 1383 pounds payload was after being told 1800 plus.. be careful out there and buy more truck than you need. My setup will work for wife ,dog and me ... I’ll upgrade in future.Hey guys, I recently got a toy hauler. TOw vehicle is 2021 ram 1500 big Horn with e-torque and 3.21. We bought a forest river 280rtx. At camping world all the sticker numbers “lined up” and seemed it would be within my weight ratings. They installed the WDH (e-2 system 800lbs round bars) and when I came out to hop in the truck I was not impressed. Now, I know it’s on me, I should have done more research. Had a buddy come over and we weighed the tongue weight empty...1250 lbs!!! So we loaded the trailer in the travel configuration I would use, tongue weight down to about 860-900 lbs (my “toy” is a 250lbs Husqvarna Te250i) and then we removed the propane tanks. Found some level ground and re did the set up as per fastways manual. All my numbers are great and I hit the cat scales and everything seems good to go although the trailer weight according to the scale is less than the quoted dry weight of the camper. Only issue is my 800 lbs round bars are no longer parallel to the trailer frame. I’m assuming I need the 1000 lbs bars but I just was looking for some additional input. I’m a little frustrated since it seems camping world set me up for failure. I’ll attach my door sticker and the cat scale slip for reference.
Measurements after WDH:
Rear camper frame to ground: 18”
Front camper frame to ground: 16 3/4
Ground to front fender: 37
Ground to rear fender: 36 1/4
I do have timbrens and hellwig
Any input is appreciated!
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I'm not sure what was in the cab (or how full the tank was) when you weighed it but your truck weight is 6880 lbs and the GVWR is only 220 lbs more at 7100 lbs.
We did the 2 truck dance for awhile. Not because of weights...but because 3 kids and this guyTruck had me, my buddy 230#, 2 x 45 pound plates and a bucket of tools. Real load would be myself (230), the wife and girls totaling 220# and a 90 pound dog. Tank was 97% full according to my Uconnect app before I left for the scale, which is only about 10 miles down the road from where I have the camper. I know I’m close to GVWR. I did it backwards, bought a truck and then a camper without the knowledge I have now. I would love to upgrade to a 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi but I’m pretty sure I’d be upside down doing that. I guess I can always have the wife and kids follow in her vehicle, might do that just to be safe.
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Here’s the trick I learned: before attaching the bars but after securing the ball, run the jack back down and raise the tongue and hitch to an unnatural position (trial and error here-start low) then try attaching the bars. The higher you raise the trailer with the jack, the easier it will be to attach the WDH bars. You are pre stressing the geometry so when you raise the jack, it will have Stressed the bar for you.After I reset everything I’m happy with performance, just the WDH bars not being parallel to the camper frame. They are really hard to get on the L brackets. I think I knew the answer was to get the 1000 lbs bars, just wanted to confirm I guess. A little concerned about long longevity of my truck if I wind up towing this thing a lot. Seems close to max payload. Hopefully the 1000 lbs bars will allow me to drop the L bracket back down so they are easier to get on.
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Nice rig. What does that trailer weigh? I just bought a ‘20 1500 2wd Limited w Eco diesel and have a floaty front end with a 7300# TTI think I've posted this pic before but in the thick of the towing, arriving, unhooking battle I don't remember to take a pic (usually 95+ and a long day). After about a year, over 4K miles, my towing comments are:
Even with my 3.21, e2-Fastway WDH (which is GREAT) I tow at 60-65 and get 8-10 (depending on wind) running up and down the third coast (beaches and casinos).
I take to heart the engineer's comments at the beginning of this thread which is something like "let the engineering do it's work".
My numbers stay in the good range and mileage is as noted above.
Of course, no serious mountains (just the "Oklahoma hills where I was born"), mostly pretty flat.
Overall, a very satisfactory experience with lots of creature comforts in my Laramie.View attachment 90143
Nice rig. What does that trailer weigh? I just bought a ‘20 1500 2wd Limited w Eco diesel and have a floaty front end with a 7300# TT
The dry is 6380, GVWR is 8200. My tow spec is max GVWR of 8350, so I'm nearly maxed out but I never tow with liquids (water, grey and black tanks), don't boondock (at my age I've done all of that I want to do) so with my odds and ends I figure I'm at low to mid 7K, well under my max. I really tow well (Timbrens in the back) and my numbers (temp, etc. on my display) are always good. So for what I have and what I want to do and where I want to go right now, I'm pleased. I have to admit that I've just acquired a 2500. This was to improve my overall towing with the current rig and with the expectation of moving up to a larger rig in the next year or two.Nice rig. What does that trailer weigh? I just bought a ‘20 1500 2wd Limited w Eco diesel and have a floaty front end with a 7300# TT
Thanks. My suspension is factory air bag, but I’m thinking of upgrading the factory sway bar to a Hellwig.The dry is 6380, GVWR is 8200. My tow spec is max GVWR of 8350, so I'm nearly maxed out but I never tow with liquids (water, grey and black tanks), don't boondock (at my age I've done all of that I want to do) so with my odds and ends I figure I'm at low to mid 7K, well under my max. I really tow well (Timbrens in the back) and my numbers (temp, etc. on my display) are always good. So for what I have and what I want to do and where I want to go right now, I'm pleased. I have to admit that I've just acquired a 2500. This was to improve my overall towing with the current rig and with the expectation of moving up to a larger rig in the next year or two.
To address your question, much earlier in the thread I mentioned that even with the WDH set up correctly I sometimes experienced the feeling that I wasn't sure which was driving, me or the trailer. I added the Timbrens mid-trip and it was excellent. My recommendation is with a 1500, get a suspension helper, whether it is Timbrens or air bags. I guess I have to say, this addition doesn't change your numbers, just your drivability.
Thanks. My suspension is factory air bag, but I’m thinking of upgrading the factory sway bar to a Hellwig.
Do you have air and did you change the sway bar?Air suspension comes with a thicker sway bar from the factory.
So Hellwig won’t make a big difference as it does with the smaller sway bar that comes with the standard coil springs suspension