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So you want to tow a camper! Discussion thread.

WXman

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The 8.5 foot width of the trailer is what is causing the white knuckle driving, gets worst with high wind/cross wind. You are brave to make long trips, you should reduce your speed with all that weight.
I did tow my flatbed trailer @ around 7,000lbs with no issues, sure is nice to have a diesel, efficient and effortless!
Yeah I'm also at the limit of my hitch. The 2-5/16 ball I have is stamped 7,500 lbs.

Honestly I'd love to go up to a 2500 or 3500 truck and I've been shopping them but the money it takes to get the same truck I have now in a HD is insane. It's a $1,000 payment compared to my current $600 payment. So I think I'll just stay where I'm at. I don't anticipate adding any further weight in the future so I should be able to manage.
 

jkvictory15

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wife and I are leaning towards this trailer. Shopping for campers is fun :D

We also have the below on the short list



After reading this thread I can say the following; As a stupid beginer, I had a toy haluer that weighed in at 8000 that I towed from PA to the Smokey Mts last summer. I had a tri glide in the back and all packed up. I guessed my weight was around 9500-10000 pds when complete. I also used cruise control (lol bad gas mileage for sure). On the way down, i got between 6-8 miles to the gallon, towed fine. I had little sway as the trailer was only 18’. On the way home I got around 11 miles to the gallon without cruise and watching my speed. I learned a valuable lesson for sure. I was at least 2000 pounds over weight and didn’t know it. Now I have a 27’ and it dry weighs in at 6000, it pulls much better and i get around 13-15 miles to the gallon. Speed is the key for the gas mileage. Although I have the sway bars I usually don’t use them unless the roads are very winding. no extra tow stuff other than some air bags inside my springs and the factor tow kit on my 2019 Bighorn hemi.
 

Big Dave TX

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After almost a year on this thread, drinking from the firehose, I'm upgrading to a 2500. Lots of factors, mostly better towing experience with my current rig and expectation of moving to a fiver next year. Giving up lots of creature comforts in the Laramie but that's life, tradeoffs. 1.jpg Result comments to follow......
 

Uga40

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After almost a year on this thread, drinking from the firehose, I'm upgrading to a 2500. Lots of factors, mostly better towing experience with my current rig and expectation of moving to a fiver next year. Giving up lots of creature comforts in the Laramie but that's life, tradeoffs. View attachment 91689 Result comments to follow......
Sweet Ride, but the payload on the Ram 2500 is still in the low 2K range. If you are moving to a 5th wheel, should really upgrade to a 3500 duelly or another brand with a higher payload. Put your Vin in the ram towing page to know the payload: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html
 

IvoryHemi

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Yes but you gain 2,000 lbs of curb weight and a full-floating rear axle. Payload #aside the 3/4 is a superior tow vehicle
 

Uga40

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Yes but you gain 2,000 lbs of curb weight and a full-floating rear axle. Payload #aside the 3/4 is a superior tow vehicle
Totally agree, better tow vehicle. What do you mean gain 2K lbs of curb weight? gain it over what? The payload is the payload.

Edit: ah, nevermind, you mean sturdier ride. Disregard
 
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Big Dave TX

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Sweet Ride, but the payload on the Ram 2500 is still in the low 2K range. If you are moving to a 5th wheel, should really upgrade to a 3500 duelly or another brand with a higher payload. Put your Vin in the ram towing page to know the payload: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html
True that. We're just a couple and I'm figuring a fiver upgrade with hitch weight will still be good for the two of us with our 8 lb. dog. Lots of room in the trailer to store the stuff we currently haul in the truck. Other considerations of course include $$$. My expectation is that I will have much more room to maneuver, so to speak, with this setup.
 

Big Dave TX

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Sweet Ride, but the payload on the Ram 2500 is still in the low 2K range. If you are moving to a 5th wheel, should really upgrade to a 3500 duelly or another brand with a higher payload. Put your Vin in the ram towing page to know the payload: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html
Did that (no disrespect) of course and the numbers are right where I'm figuring where I want to be. Very good note to have the link for the Ram towing spec. I used it extensively deciding on my upgrade.
 

Uga40

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True that. We're just a couple and I'm figuring a fiver upgrade with hitch weight will still be good for the two of us with our 8 lb. dog. Lots of room in the trailer to store the stuff we currently haul in the truck. Other considerations of course include $$$. My expectation is that I will have much more room to maneuver, so to speak, with this setup.
No doubt, either way, beautiful truck. I am in the same boat. Might be following suit.

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Trooper4

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Sweet Ride, but the payload on the Ram 2500 is still in the low 2K range. If you are moving to a 5th wheel, should really upgrade to a 3500 duelly or another brand with a higher payload. Put your Vin in the ram towing page to know the payload: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html
Not trying to p!ss on anyone's camp fire, but just wondering why some think that just because someone want to pull, or does pull, a fifth wheel that they automatically NEED a 3500 with/without dual rear wheels. I pulled a heavy fiver for over ten years with a Duramax 2500, and never had a problem. I was within limits, but was bagged on the rear because the '05s were a little soft sprung and it got rid of the sag. When properly set up, a tow behind never pulls as comfortably as a well set up fiver, no matter the size of the pickup. Tow within limits (conservative by design) and you will not have a problem unless the idiot in front of you does the unthinkable. A 3500 and a fiver that's well within limits and properly balanced at 75/80 on the freeway is just a 25k pound +accident waiting to happen.
 

Uga40

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Not trying to p!ss on anyone's camp fire, but just wondering why some think that just because someone want to pull, or does pull, a fifth wheel that they automatically NEED a 3500 with/without dual rear wheels. I pulled a heavy fiver for over ten years with a Duramax 2500, and never had a problem. I was within limits, but was bagged on the rear because the '05s were a little soft sprung and it got rid of the sag. When properly set up, a tow behind never pulls as comfortably as a well set up fiver, no matter the size of the pickup. Tow within limits (conservative by design) and you will not have a problem unless the idiot in front of you does the unthinkable. A 3500 and a fiver that's well within limits and properly balanced at 75/80 on the freeway is just a 25k pound +accident waiting to happen.
Great points, I was just thinking b/c of the payload being so low on the Ram 2500 you might have an issue with the tongue weight towing the 5th wheel.
 

834k3r

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FWIW, this past weekend I completed my first trip with our TT (4,790 GVWR) pulled by my new '21 Laramie Sport (3.92, 5.7eT). All I can say is it's worlds better than my previous rig ('14 Honda Ridgeline). Gas mileage was about the same as with the Ridgeline, but everything else was better. Engine braking was fantastic (note: USE TOW/HAUL MODE; IT'S FREAKING AWESOME), OEM brake controller was so much smoother than the aftermarket unit I had with the Ridgeline, and power going up hills was more than I hoped.

I used a WDH with the Ridgeline, but didn't have time to set it up before this trip. Hardly any tail sag at all, but will set up the WDH for the next trip regardless.

It's just great towing with a far more capable rig than I had before.

edit: added the WDH statement.
As a follow-up, I finally got around to configuring my e2-Fastway WDH that I had used with my Ridgeline. Took me about an hour, but man...I should've done that weeks earlier!

Took the trailer from my house to the dump station then to the storage place, and the difference between using the WDH bars and not is like night and day. Trailer feels so much more solid behind the truck. Without the WDH bars connected the Ram pulled the trailer just fine, but it swayed as much as the Ridgeline did with the bars. Now that the bars are set to the Ram--it's so smooth. "Like butta," as Linda Richman (any '90s SNL fans out there?) would say.

If you don't have a WDH, in the words of Ferris Bueller: "It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up."
 

Trooper4

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Great points, I was just thinking b/c of the payload being so low on the Ram 2500 you might have an issue with the tongue weight towing the 5th wheel.
Fiver is no different than a tow behind as far as tongue/pin weight .They are all different, and can be loaded to mitigate some of the forward weight bias. Just try to color between the lines, and the picture will look good.
 

brian42

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Even if you mitigate overall weight a bumper pull tongue should be 10-15% of overall weight and a fifth wheel pin weight is around 20%. Depending on the weight of the trailer that can be a noticeable difference.

With a bumper pull and no WDH then towing drops to 5000 lbs (500 lb tongue weight) no matter what the truck is rated for.
 

Trooper4

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Even if you mitigate overall weight a bumper pull tongue should be 10-15% of overall weight and a fifth wheel pin weight is around 20%. Depending on the weight of the trailer that can be a noticeable difference.

With a bumper pull and no WDH then towing drops to 5000 lbs (500 lb tongue weight) no matter what the truck is rated for.
Like you said, BETWEEN 10%-15% and AROUND 20%. By mitigate I mean keeping within that boundary. Color between the lines. That doesn't mean load the he!! out of the back to get the hitch/pin weight to the sweet spot with overloaded trailer axles. Every setup has a sweet spot for towing.
 

brian42

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I agree with that. I see way too many people around here overloaded or improperly set up. No tow mirrors, trailer angled too much up or down, toy haulers loaded to the gills with no WDH, and plenty of other stuff that makes me cringe.

Every time my dad got a new trailer we set aside an entire day to get everything set up and adjusted.
 

Jimbilly

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Hey guys, I recently got a toy hauler. TOw vehicle is 2021 ram 1500 big Horn with e-torque and 3.21. We bought a forest river 280rtx. At camping world all the sticker numbers “lined up” and seemed it would be within my weight ratings. They installed the WDH (e-2 system 800lbs round bars) and when I came out to hop in the truck I was not impressed. Now, I know it’s on me, I should have done more research. Had a buddy come over and we weighed the tongue weight empty...1250 lbs!!! So we loaded the trailer in the travel configuration I would use, tongue weight down to about 860-900 lbs (my “toy” is a 250lbs Husqvarna Te250i) and then we removed the propane tanks. Found some level ground and re did the set up as per fastways manual. All my numbers are great and I hit the cat scales and everything seems good to go although the trailer weight according to the scale is less than the quoted dry weight of the camper. Only issue is my 800 lbs round bars are no longer parallel to the trailer frame. I’m assuming I need the 1000 lbs bars but I just was looking for some additional input. I’m a little frustrated since it seems camping world set me up for failure. I’ll attach my door sticker and the cat scale slip for reference.
Measurements after WDH:
Rear camper frame to ground: 18”
Front camper frame to ground: 16 3/4
Ground to front fender: 37
Ground to rear fender: 36 1/4
I do have timbrens and hellwig
Any input is appreciated!
IMG_1077.jpg
IMG_1124.jpg


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LoNeStAr

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Looks pretty good. I would even look at moving a little more weight back to the rear axle 100-140lbs. I would definitely look at getting the 1k bars.

Is the truck and trailer loaded with everything you would have in it for camping?
 

Jimbilly

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The truck yesterday had me, a friend and some weight plates in the back to simulate the children and dogs (kids are only 45 lbs and 35 lbs respectively). The camper, I have 2 different loads but they seem to weigh about the same. I either haul the bike with riding gear and clothes or I have all the kids bags and wife and I but no bike. It never really seems to be much more than 500 lbs. We are new to camping so maybe as we accrue more stuff the weight will go up? the weird part is on the forest river site it states tongue weight 760, unloaded vehicle weight 5600 lbs. the sticker on the side of my camper is 5100 ish and the tongue weight is outrageous.


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