So you want to tow a camper! Discussion thread.

[jdefoe0424]

@IvoryHemi ok, I thought I saw in the manual they should be generally parallel to the trailer frame. Can’t seem to find it now. I know they won’t be perfect but mine are under a significant amount of tension. They are bent upward quite a bit.


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I was about in the same boat as you, we bought a TT sooner than we expected but knew the 1500 would pull it for a couple years until we could get a 2500. I never weighed that truck and trailer but plan to weigh my 2500 and the same trailer on Friday, I suspect that I was close to GVWR on the 1500.
I had a Husky WDH and certainly had to jack the front of the trailer up pretty good to get the bars to go on, I had the 800-1200lb bars. Truck sat almost level with the trailer on and bikes in the bed. Because the suspension is soft it takes a lot of pressure on the bars to transfer the weight around.

I took advantage of the trade-in values and got out of my 1500 Laramie and into a used 2500 Tradesman plus some cash. If I had ordered I probably could've had the new 2500 that I wanted without any additional $$...but that's done and over with at this point.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Let’s start with basics.

>5000lbs weight distributing hitch is required by law in many states and provinces.

Check your payload capacity.
Subtract weight of all passengers plus 50 lbs each for shoes, coats, water bottles, snacks and random stuff they carry with them.
Subtract weight of anything you plan to carry in the bed.
Remaining weight = max tongue weight.

Max tongue weight/ 12-15% (typical rv tongue weight) = max trailer weight.

Example:
Payload from door sticker 1480lbs
1480-4 passengers at 150lbs =880lbs
880lbs less cooler and firewood (200lb assumed) = 680lbs
680lbs/.12 = 5,666lb max Loaded trailer weight (not the advertised dry weight!)

You’ll find that a 1500 runs out of payload well before it ever nears the fallacy of advertised max trailer weight.

If you don’t carry anything in the bed and no extras in the cab you might stretch to 8000lbs, but unlikely. Happy trailering.


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Subtract hitch weight too.

 

[M2k]

I tow a 25’ keystone 5th wheel 8100 GVWR with the truck in my sig. My pin weight is 1120 lbs. Very happy with my setup, though I can’t get the trailer steering to recognize/calibrate to a fifth wheel? Too close to the camera maybe? I know how to back a trailer, but I thought it would be neat to have.

Anyway, a fifth wheel is so much more stable to tow. Never worry about sway. And get decent mpg and great ride when not towing.

 

[Big Dave TX]

After almost a year on this thread, drinking from the firehose, I'm upgrading to a 2500. Lots of factors, mostly better towing experience with my current rig and expectation of moving to a fiver next year. Giving up lots of creature comforts in the Laramie but that's life, tradeoffs. View attachment 91689Result comments to follow......

Did a 900 mile pulling my current rig (TT @7500#) with the 2500 diesel and it was absolutely night and day. Tow/Haul on and cruise set at 75 (in Texas) it was like towing nothing, not a downshift and 5 mpg better. We're looking at a 5er this wknd for our "final solution". Not trying to rain on any 1500 parade, but that's our experience. Transitioning to the HD Forum. I'll keep checking back if there is anything I can help with after my year of towing with the 1500.

 

[M2k]

When we started the Rv lifestyle my first Rv was a wildwood 26tbss 7700 gvwr and a 2015 ram 1500 hemi 8spd 4x2 3.21 crew was my tow vehicle. I learned a very expensive lesson due to spending too much time on the RV forums... The truck had plenty of power and was never white knuckle even at max capacity. But the weight police scared me into thinking I should be using a kenworth to safely tow a pop up...

So I traded the 1500 for a 2016 ram 2500 6.4. Yes, night and day difference as far as stability, but the ride, MPG and tow performance (6spd diesel geared trans) was also night and day for the worse. Daily driving that beast was not fun or comfortable. The new 8spd and interior in the 2500 is probably a vast improvement.

So I’m back in a new and improved ram 1500 and towing a 5th wheel enjoying the best of both worlds. YMMV depending on the situation

 

[Big Dave TX]

When we started the Rv lifestyle my first Rv was a wildwood 26tbss 7700 gvwr and a 2015 ram 1500 hemi 8spd 4x2 3.21 crew was my tow vehicle. I learned a very expensive lesson due to spending too much time on the RV forums... The truck had plenty of power and was never white knuckle even at max capacity. But the weight police scared me into thinking I should be using a kenworth to safely tow a pop up...

So I traded the 1500 for a 2016 ram 2500 6.4. Yes, night and day difference as far as stability, but the ride, MPG and tow performance (6spd diesel geared trans) was also night and day for the worse. Daily driving that beast was not fun or comfortable. The new 8spd and interior in the 2500 is probably a vast improvement.

So I’m back in a new and improved ram 1500 and towing a 5th wheel enjoying the best of both worlds. YMMV depending on the situation

True and good points. I don't commute (haven't for years) so that is something I don't consider. Like I said, I was talking about my towing experience. Also, my 1500 was mostly just fine and if we weren't going to a bigger trailer I would still have it.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Did a 900 mile pulling my current rig (TT @7500#) with the 2500 diesel and it was absolutely night and day. Tow/Haul on and cruise set at 75 (in Texas) it was like towing nothing, not a downshift and 5 mpg better. We're looking at a 5er this wknd for our "final solution". Not trying to rain on any 1500 parade, but that's our experience. Transitioning to the HD Forum. I'll keep checking back if there is anything I can help with after my year of towing with the 1500.

Yeah well at 7500# that's close to maxing out a 1500 and most peeps should (?) know that to run anything near 100% of it's rated capacity (don't matter what it is) probably ain't the greatest idea, at least for the long term.

Now the problem for most peeps is payload, and a 2500 Cummins doesn't have that much more than a gas 1500 Tradesman or quad cab BH. I get the whole "don't let the tail wag the dog" thing but that's (payload) a lot of the equation.

Before anyone gets their panties in a bunch, I last towed a 24' TT with a 3500 gasser, so payload wasn't a problem.

 

[Willwork4truck]

When we started the Rv lifestyle my first Rv was a wildwood 26tbss 7700 gvwr and a 2015 ram 1500 hemi 8spd 4x2 3.21 crew was my tow vehicle. I learned a very expensive lesson due to spending too much time on the RV forums... The truck had plenty of power and was never white knuckle even at max capacity. But the weight police scared me into thinking I should be using a kenworth to safely tow a pop up...

So I traded the 1500 for a 2016 ram 2500 6.4. Yes, night and day difference as far as stability, but the ride, MPG and tow performance (6spd diesel geared trans) was also night and day for the worse. Daily driving that beast was not fun or comfortable. The new 8spd and interior in the 2500 is probably a vast improvement.

So I’m back in a new and improved ram 1500 and towing a 5th wheel enjoying the best of both worlds. YMMV depending on the situation

well said

 

[Trooper4]

On the Ike for this test they use 7000#

On this test they are using 9100#
Real world testing is far better than speculation, might be, Etc..
Depending on the truck, intended use, and several other factors, 7500 isn't almost maxed out on most of our 1500's. Keeping it within the payload rating(a conservative lawyer induced number) will keep it well within the safe range.
But, to each his/her own and whatever feels safe and sane to you, without going outside the ratings..

 

[Willwork4truck]

Tis' true there sir number-wise. Just too many "new to trailer towing" peeps forget about trailer length, wheelbase ratios, sail effects, P rated tires on their tow vehicles, inadequate hitches etc...

Our trucks have the sheer power (heck the Tundra "towed" the space shuttle, right?), sufficient sized brakes (though truck brakes are for the truck only) and a "reasonably" stiff frame.

It's all good when there's little to no wind, no mountains/passes, no emergency maneuvers and no 100 degree days. (That's not addressing payload issues). As soon as the "typical" trip turns into the "atypical" trip from hell, which it can at any time, then the 1500 owner/tower then sees why it's always better to have a bit more truck than needed. Until then you'll see many a 30+ footer behind an F150/RAM/GM 1500.

Having been on both sides of this equation, I can gar-un-tee you that the wifey would prefer the Ltd 1500 with its #1476 payload for ride/trip comfort. I as driver would prefer the gas 6.4 2500 for the stability, ride comfort be d*mmed. My brothers 14' 2500 Dmax rode like a freakin' wood wagon when empty, it would knock your fillings out, but it was a tow boss.

This "discussion" will never end, I understand that peeps with lower budgets can't usually afford a dedicated tow vehicle. That's reality. As long as you don't push your speeds, know your weights, upgrade to 10 ply tires and stay off the road when its a blowin', most folks do just fine.

 

[Big Dave TX]

Yeah well at 7500# that's close to maxing out a 1500 and most peeps should (?) know that to run anything near 100% of it's rated capacity (don't matter what it is) probably ain't the greatest idea, at least for the long term.

Now the problem for most peeps is payload, and a 2500 Cummins doesn't have that much more than a gas 1500 Tradesman or quad cab BH. I get the whole "don't let the tail wag the dog" thing but that's (payload) a lot of the equation.

Before anyone gets their panties in a bunch, I last towed a 24' TT with a 3500 gasser, so payload wasn't a problem.

You are right and thanks to many things I learned from this thread I have been very particular about picking out our next rig. A bigger fiver with pin weight where I need to be, based on payload, is requiring a careful search. I'm getting there.

 

[IvoryHemi]

7500 lb TT will definitely “max out” most of our 1500’s.

But As @Willwork4truck points out it’s more than weight. With my 7k GVWR TT our Durango was within specs (6,800 lbs loaded on 7,100 lb GVWR) . With the same TT our 1500 when loaded is maxed out at 7,100 lbs... but it’s a significantly better tow experience. With the Ram’s wider track width and longer wheelbase makes it more stable.

Sure 2500 would be better weight-wise but that has it own compromises as we know.

 

[M2k]

All great comments here! Driver experience and comfort level is also a factor in selecting a tow vehicle. I rarely exceed 65 mph when towing for obvious reasons. Other good reasons are trailer tire speed ratings (China bombs) and reaction times.

I shake my head when I see a heavy duty blowing by me at 75+ with huge camper in tow. Overconfidence is the other side of the equation. Just because you can...

 

[ayoslickxd]

dam this was a good read of 12 pages alot of info.

 

[silver billet]

All great comments here! Driver experience and comfort level is also a factor in selecting a tow vehicle. I rarely exceed 65 mph when towing for obvious reasons. Other good reasons are trailer tire speed ratings (China bombs) and reaction times.

I shake my head when I see a heavy duty blowing by me at 75+ with huge camper in tow. Overconfidence is the other side of the equation. Just because you can...

Speaking of china bombs; first thing I did when I got my trailer was to rip off the bombs and put on some decent carlisle tires. Trailer was almost brand new (used 1 or 2 seasons) and the tires were already cracking in spots

 

[Trooper4]

Tis' true there sir number-wise. Just too many "new to trailer towing" peeps forget about trailer length, wheelbase ratios, sail effects, P rated tires on their tow vehicles, inadequate hitches etc...

Our trucks have the sheer power (heck the Tundra "towed" the space shuttle, right?), sufficient sized brakes (though truck brakes are for the truck only) and a "reasonably" stiff frame.

It's all good when there's little to no wind, no mountains/passes, no emergency maneuvers and no 100 degree days. (That's not addressing payload issues). As soon as the "typical" trip turns into the "atypical" trip from hell, which it can at any time, then the 1500 owner/tower then sees why it's always better to have a bit more truck than needed. Until then you'll see many a 30+ footer behind an F150/RAM/GM 1500.

Having been on both sides of this equation, I can gar-un-tee you that the wifey would prefer the Ltd 1500 with its #1476 payload for ride/trip comfort. I as driver would prefer the gas 6.4 2500 for the stability, ride comfort be d*mmed. My brothers 14' 2500 Dmax rode like a freakin' wood wagon when empty, it would knock your fillings out, but it was a tow boss.

This "discussion" will never end, I understand that peeps with lower budgets can't usually afford a dedicated tow vehicle. That's reality. As long as you don't push your speeds, know your weights, upgrade to 10 ply tires and stay off the road when its a blowin', most folks do just fine.

Very true. The qualifier is MOST people. There will always be the newbie/idiot that will overload his/her overload their hummingbirdass with an eagleattitude and complain when everything goes south.

 

[Trooper4]

Speaking of china bombs; first thing I did when I got my trailer was to rip off the bombs and put on some decent carlisle tires. Trailer was almost brand new (used 1 or 2 seasons) and the tires were already cracking in spots

All true.
If you look at the axle rating, tire rating and empty weight on trailers, the numbers work. Almost. Trailers leave the factory with the minimums needed to get it out the door. My '05 Triumph had 7000# axles times two, tires rated at 3500# times four, and weighed 16000# loaded with a pin weight at 2000#. That made it overweight withanythinh more than the necessities.
First thing to look at with the purchase of almost any rv is to change the tires. I went to ten plys and eventually had to put new axles under it. Truck and trailer handled great, but 55/65 was a good safe towing speed just for safety's sake.

 

[Trooper4]

Totally off topic, but, wouldn't a turbine engine be better all around when thinking about hybrid or straight electric. that way you could burn just about any fuel.

 

[IvoryHemi]

Speaking of china bombs; first thing I did when I got my trailer was to rip off the bombs and put on some decent carlisle tires. Trailer was almost brand new (used 1 or 2 seasons) and the tires were already cracking in spots

This was one of my OEM CastleRock tires after it was only 7 months old...

 

[Willwork4truck]

RV forums have lots of threads about the “China bombs”.

My brother has 5th wheeled for about 15 years and until he quit being cheap and bought some Goodyear ST tires, he regularly got blowouts.

Mind you they were not cheap but after 2 insurance claims for thousands of dollars of damage to the underside and side of the 5th wheel, (2 different trailers) he wised up and changed over.