5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

First off great writeup and a lot of useful information on this thread. I was able to get my Viofo A129 hardwired pretty easy.

My only question is regarding the rear camera, how did everyone run the cable from front to rear?
I ran mine along the headliner but the cable is pretty thick and opens up the rubber seal some.
Also, where did everyone store the extra cable length? I easily have a couple of feet of extra cable length.

Here is everything I bought to get it hard wired.
I ran my rear camera cable down the passenger A-pillar cover, along the floor channel, then back up trough the rear pillar and along the headliner to center. I didn't have any extra cable at all. In fact, I almost didn't have enough cable to make it to the center of the rear window...I had to find a little slack.
 
Sticker500 - Did you remove an existing 10amp fuse and replace it with the new cable? Also, did you put in two (2x) 5amp fuses in the new cable housing?
For those of you that do understand electricity, you need to do the following:

1. If the fuse from the fuse panel is a 10A, it MUST be replaced with a 10A on the fuse tap side without the wire coming off of it
2. The supply (red wire side of the fuse tap) should have at most a 3-5A fuse for the dashcam

If you have any install questions, please feel free to PM me...I've been installing electronics in cars since 1977 :)
 
For those of you that do understand electricity, you need to do the following:

1. If the fuse from the fuse panel is a 10A, it MUST be replaced with a 10A on the fuse tap side without the wire coming off of it
2. The supply (red wire side of the fuse tap) should have at most a 3-5A fuse for the dashcam

If you have any install questions, please feel free to PM me...I've been installing electronics in cars since 1977 :)

Right on Securityguy! I did some googleing and got it figured out. Install looks nice and clean. Took your advice and ran the wire down to the fuse box instead of the mirror. My only concern is that I have it in a dedicated power fuse location (to preserve the parking recording feature) and the Escort M1 Camera does NOT have an auto-off feature when the voltage in the battery drops below a certain level. I figure any drain to on the battery would be replenished once I get the motor/alternator running, as it is a daily driver and I rarely go more than 2 or 3 days withiut driving it. Think it is ok to run it to the dedicated power source as is?

Thanks for your input on this thread!!
 
Check this out as it may be a great investment to shut accessories off when battery voltage hits a certain level. Highly recommend!

 
How you like your Valentine One Gen2? What did you running before? I'm running Valentine One Gen1 with most recent firmware right now, trying to justify $499 price tag worth or not.
Sorry for the super slow reply. I was not sure whether I wanted to get back into radar detectors, but turns out the V1G2 is incredible. I had posted a summary review at rdforum.org, but the short story is I had stopped using detectors completely when I sold my V1 on Craigslist in 2013. I was just so sick of the falsing from all the infrastructure radar and blind spot monitoring radar on today's cars. I went full Waze, mostly with success. 1 ticket, probably 3 or 4 stops, and several near misses. Ohio loves to write tickets.

I heard an interview with Mike Valentine on YouTube and I wasn’t in the market but was fascinated by that discussion and immediately ordered a V1G2. The interview convinced me that Mike Valentine is the real deal on a number of levels of technical and business acumen. I'm an engineer by background and a business owner who drives a lot, and 10 minutes into this interview it's clear that this guy has command of this field and industry.

There were some reports of some manufacturing problems in initial units which seem resolved now. Out of the box it seemed high quality like my last V1, and Valentine did a great job with the packaging and included accessories. I’ve had no quality issues at all. It’s been perfect, and as advertised.

My thoughts on performance: when you combine this with the app V1Driver, I’m astonished how effective this solution is. Blown away. Not just at range performance, but at the effectiveness of the anti falsing of this system. I had no desire to run an app on my phone, but it is so painless and so well integrated that getting the most out of the capabilities, functionality and options is an absolute no brainer. I agree with Vortex Radar’s May 18th video “Getting Started with V1Driver...” it is far more capable that any radar detector alone. Combine this system with Waze, and it’s extremely powerful situational awareness.

For CarPlay users, I drove 45,000 miles last year, and I use CarPlay 100% of the time for audio content and navigation. I generally use Waze for advance notice of hazards and LEOs. The combination of V1G2 + V1Driver + Waze/Google Maps + CarPlay audio all works beautifully. Further, if you optionally want to mount your iPhone high on the dash or window to display V1Driver (not necessary really, but super interesting) the iPhone will still drive the CarPlay screen without interruption or hiccup. Almost seems like it was all designed for this purpose.
 
As an EE, with over 35 years experience, and a radar detector fanatic, the V1G2 is a "good" detector...not a GREAT detector. Mike is a great engineer, but the V1G2 was outdated before it was ever introduced. Many people, including VortexRadar, have had unit failures so their start out of the gate was very poor. The detector to watch out for is the Radenso Theia...it will, most likely, cost around $750 (so not for your average person on a budget) but will be the first to revolutionize the industry with AI and will provide excellent BSM rejection. It is supposed to be released later this year. I have had GREAT success with my R7 (many that have tried both have stated that the R7 is still a better detector then the V1G2 but it is noisier). Just my two cents and I do agree that the V1G2 provides great smart phone integration for those that are looking for it. You must also understand that "most" folks want built-in GPS and do not want to rely on having to place their cell phone on their dash for viewing and integrating it with their detector. The smartphone integration was designed as a "work-around" for their failure to integrate GPS into their units as have Escort and Uniden...a HUGE miss on Mike's part!

I am happy you are enjoying it, and it does work well when it works. However, again, I believe the new Escort and Uniden models have a better overall package while we all wait for the release of Theia :) There will always be diehard Valentine folks, and I get that. Tt's just a crying shame that Mike wasn't willing to invest more into his redesign to make it relevant in today's world of detection...and I saw the same 1+ hour video that you did.
 
As an EE, with over 35 years experience, and a radar detector fanatic, the V1G2 is a "good" detector...not a GREAT detector. Mike is a great engineer, but the V1G2 was outdated before it was ever introduced. Many people, including VortexRadar, have had unit failures so their start out of the gate was very poor. The detector to watch out for is the Radenso Theia...it will, most likely, cost around $750 (so not for your average person on a budget) but will be the first to revolutionize the industry with AI and will provide excellent BSM rejection. It is supposed to be released later this year. I have had GREAT success with my R7 (many that have tried both have stated that the R7 is still a better detector then the V1G2 but it is noisier). Just my two cents and I do agree that the V1G2 provides great smart phone integration for those that are looking for it. You must also understand that "most" folks want built-in GPS and do not want to rely on having to place their cell phone on their dash for viewing and integrating it with their detector. The smartphone integration was designed as a "work-around" for their failure to integrate GPS into their units as have Escort and Uniden...a HUGE miss on Mike's part!

I am happy you are enjoying it, and it does work well when it works. However, again, I believe the new Escort and Uniden models have a better overall package while we all wait for the release of Theia :) There will always be diehard Valentine folks, and I get that. Tt's just a crying shame that Mike wasn't willing to invest more into his redesign to make it relevant in today's world of detection...and I saw the same 1+ hour video that you did.
Fair enough. I can appreciate and understand your viewpoint that the G2 should have had on-board GPS. I have come to believe that is the wrong approach 2000-late. The benefits from smartphone integration are now far better than onboard GPS, and will only improve since phones are on a much more rigorous development cycle. Have you seen what the JBV1 software can do on the Android platform? Wow. So what is really needed is great radar detection hardware and a great open-API way to connect to much richer capabilities of where phones are going and the incredible investment those giant companies are making in them. The radar detection market has shrunk. This small radar detector companies cannot possibly invest in hardware platforms like the phone guys can. I personally believe that Theia cannot possibly live up to the hype and will be a science project for quite awhile. I'd rather be on a phone platform for that stuff.
 
As an EE, with over 35 years experience, and a radar detector fanatic, the V1G2 is a "good" detector...not a GREAT detector. Mike is a great engineer, but the V1G2 was outdated before it was ever introduced. Many people, including VortexRadar, have had unit failures so their start out of the gate was very poor. The detector to watch out for is the Radenso Theia...it will, most likely, cost around $750 (so not for your average person on a budget) but will be the first to revolutionize the industry with AI and will provide excellent BSM rejection. It is supposed to be released later this year. I have had GREAT success with my R7 (many that have tried both have stated that the R7 is still a better detector then the V1G2 but it is noisier). Just my two cents and I do agree that the V1G2 provides great smart phone integration for those that are looking for it. You must also understand that "most" folks want built-in GPS and do not want to rely on having to place their cell phone on their dash for viewing and integrating it with their detector. The smartphone integration was designed as a "work-around" for their failure to integrate GPS into their units as have Escort and Uniden...a HUGE miss on Mike's part!

I am happy you are enjoying it, and it does work well when it works. However, again, I believe the new Escort and Uniden models have a better overall package while we all wait for the release of Theia :) There will always be diehard Valentine folks, and I get that. Tt's just a crying shame that Mike wasn't willing to invest more into his redesign to make it relevant in today's world of detection...and I saw the same 1+ hour video that you did.
^^^ This ^^^
I have a V1G1, and also waiting on Theia to come out. Once they start preorders, I will be first in line :)
 
Check this out as it may be a great investment to shut accessories off when battery voltage hits a certain level. Highly recommend!


Don’t they VIOFO already sells this as a hardwire kit for parking mode?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don’t they VIOFO already sells this as a hardwire kit for parking mode?
If you have a VIOFO, it operates on 5VDC. Most all other cameras operate on 12VDC. You must buy a hardwire "Parking Mode" kit that provides the voltage output required for your dash cam. They are far from the "same thing" ;)
 
Thanks to the OP's post. I was able to do the installation without any real problems (key fob works, no tpms error issues, no interferences). The only hideous work was running the rear cable along the headliner and pillars....there were too much slack so I tucked and tucked and tucked all of them to the back pillar, prolly will rework that tomorrow. Oh, and I'm not too confident where I bolted down the ground..will also take a look at that bolt again. And last, is to reposition the front cam again...lets hope I can peel off the glue somehow and re-use it.
 
Last edited:
Thanks to the OP's post. I was able to do the installation without any real problems (key fob works, no tpms error issues, no interferences). The only hideous work was running the rear cable along the headliner and pillars....there were too much slack so I tucked and tucked and tucked all of them to the back pillar, prolly will rework that tomorrow. Oh, and I'm not too confident where I bolted down the ground..will also take a look at that bolt again. And last, is to reposition the front cam again...lets hope I can peal off the glue somehow and re-use it.
You cannot reuse the glue pads...once installed they are shot. They do sell replacements. There is a great grounding bolt coming off the firewall off to the left of the brake pedal which is where you should go. Some things should be left to the professionals ;)
 
You cannot reuse the glue pads...once installed they are shot. They do sell replacements. There is a great grounding bolt coming off the firewall off to the left of the brake pedal which is where you should go. Some things should be left to the professionals ;)
thx.. im sure ill manage.. everything is working dandy. Test drove 3 separate times and reviewed all video clips, both front and rear in driving mode and parking mode...tested all features on parking mode, auto detection motion mode, timelapse, low bit rate modes, all worked great. I just wanted to tidy up my install, double check my work, add more zip-ties to make it neat.
 
For anyone installing the Blackvue DR900S-2CH and doesn't want the wire sticking out the back of the rear, I found a 90 degree cable on eBay link and picture on mine installed, just cleans it up and hides the cable better, the cables pink but nothing some black heat shrink tubing can't fix. Also in the picture is a Custom Folded metal bracket from The Dashcam store in black and the 2'' length. This lets me mount the rear camera centred in the truck without having to worry about the sliding rear window.



IMG_8141.jpg
 
Appreciate the thread... excellent information... and it sold me on the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo for sure.

Getting everything ordered up... the A129, a fuse tap kit, the VIOFO HK3ACC hardwire kit, the CPL filter that fits the A129, and I picked up a Samsung 256GB U3 100Mb/s microSD card.

I just installed mine today and had the HD tile sample ready to go but would up not using it. I did reverse the rear cable like you did so that the 90 degree end was at the rear but I just stuck the camera to the upper window frame without any sort of bracket. I wired it all up first to double check the picture and those cameras have to be really close to a side object for it to block the view. My view is not blocked at all by the high mounting position.

Just posting this for others looking to mount the same. I don't think you need a bracket at all unless you use the straight end of the cable (for clearance.)
I understand what you are doing, and I'm sure I can figure it out once I get the unit in hand, but still curious if you might have a pic you can share. Thanks!

If you have a VIOFO, it operates on 5VDC. Most all other cameras operate on 12VDC. You must buy a hardwire "Parking Mode" kit that provides the voltage output required for your dash cam. They are far from the "same thing" ;)
To confirm, the A129 comes with a 12VDC to 5VDC converter... or is the HK3ACC kit needed for the converter even if you don't plan on using parking mode? I'm going to use parking mode, but want to make sure I don't need to purchase a 12v>5v converter for the A129. I don't see any mention of this unless I completely missed it. Thanks!
 
Appreciate the thread... excellent information... and it sold me on the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo for sure.

Getting everything ordered up... the A129, a fuse tap kit, the VIOFO HK3ACC hardwire kit, the CPL filter that fits the A129, and I picked up a Samsung 256GB U3 100Mb/s microSD card.


I understand what you are doing, and I'm sure I can figure it out once I get the unit in hand, but still curious if you might have a pic you can share. Thanks!


To confirm, the A129 comes with a 12VDC to 5VDC converter... or is the HK3ACC kit needed for the converter even if you don't plan on using parking mode? I'm going to use parking mode, but want to make sure I don't need to purchase a 12v>5v converter for the A129. I don't see any mention of this unless I completely missed it. Thanks!
You need to buy the HARDWIRED kit which has the inverter built in. You only need the HARDWIRED kit if you plan to use Parking Mode. Otherwise, you will just plug the cam into your cigarette lighter plug.
 
Appreciate the thread... excellent information... and it sold me on the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo for sure.

Getting everything ordered up... the A129, a fuse tap kit, the VIOFO HK3ACC hardwire kit, the CPL filter that fits the A129, and I picked up a Samsung 256GB U3 100Mb/s microSD card.


I understand what you are doing, and I'm sure I can figure it out once I get the unit in hand, but still curious if you might have a pic you can share. Thanks!


To confirm, the A129 comes with a 12VDC to 5VDC converter... or is the HK3ACC kit needed for the converter even if you don't plan on using parking mode? I'm going to use parking mode, but want to make sure I don't need to purchase a 12v>5v converter for the A129. I don't see any mention of this unless I completely missed it. Thanks!

I was following another member's idea but I couldn't get the tile sample to stay stuck to the frame so I moved the camera to the glass on the passenger side of the center window. Makes the image slightly off center but fine with me. It's out of the way and will not cause any issues.
 
Appreciate the thread... excellent information... and it sold me on the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo for sure.

Getting everything ordered up... the A129, a fuse tap kit, the VIOFO HK3ACC hardwire kit, the CPL filter that fits the A129, and I picked up a Samsung 256GB U3 100Mb/s microSD card.


I understand what you are doing, and I'm sure I can figure it out once I get the unit in hand, but still curious if you might have a pic you can share. Thanks!


To confirm, the A129 comes with a 12VDC to 5VDC converter... or is the HK3ACC kit needed for the converter even if you don't plan on using parking mode? I'm going to use parking mode, but want to make sure I don't need to purchase a 12v>5v converter for the A129. I don't see any mention of this unless I completely missed it. Thanks!
You'll be happy with your purchase. I've had mine for quite a while and have zero complaints. It works every time that I turn the truck on and takes very good video. I will warn you of one thing: Every 60 days it wants to format the card. That isn't a problem, you just turn it on one day and it beeps and asks you if you want to format the card; then you hit "ok" and it only takes seconds. My problem was that I didn't realize it was the camera beeping at my one day and I thought my truck was broken. Something just kept beeping and I didn't know how to make it stop.....I started the truck, shut off the truck, started again, opened and closed doors, locked and unlocked it and it kept trying to figure out where the noise was coming from...then I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it stopped. Later that night as I thought about what the beeping might have been I realized it was probably the camera because it had been a while since it did the format. Boy, did I feel stupid. At least I was the only one who knew about it.....until now.:oops:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Members online

Back
Top