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You need to purchase Fuse Taps which will retain the factory fuse and provide an additional output for an accessory so you lose nothing and gain everything. Check Amazon and search for FUSE TAPS. You'll need to order the right fuse tap size to fit our trucks.
Is that sale on now? Don't see any sale on the website today.
use thdftugh they had a 25 off code not anymore though
For some reason F66 is not showing power when i push the button to AccessoryI had this setup on my F150 and just finished the install on my RAM. I run a Viofo A129 dual dash cam, with the rear cam mounted on the passenger side of the sliding rear window (cable tucked up inside the headliner on the passenger side.
Dash cam - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTBB4R5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard wire kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQ1JYPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuse Tap (not shown in below pics) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077PBXGKQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looking at the owners manual, there is a fuse box located below the steering column, fuse F66 is unused, 10a and labelled as an accessory fuse. Fuses - Constant 12V is F33, switched 12V is F66.
The dash panel below the steering column is held on by two bolts at the bottom and a bunch of clips, I used a non marring trim removal tool to help loosen those up. Once it's off, you'll have open access to the fuse block.
Not pictured below is the fuse tap I used, the link above fits perfectly.
The trim panel to the left of the instrument panel pops off with trim removal tools as well (a few clips holding it on). Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen up one of the screws enough to get the ground wire in place and mounted. A few zip ties to keep the wiring in place and from bouncing around as well.
On my F150 I pulled off the A pillar trip piece to route the wiring up and into the front of the headliner, over to where I mounted the dash cam by the mirror. In the RAM, I was able to sneak it behind the A pillar trim without removing it.
Hope this helps!
***Edited - When I originally wrote this I had a G1W dash cam, I've since switched to the Viofo***
Did you ever get this sorted out? F66 right side of the tap is on with ignition.
Im curious as to how this could cause a TPMS errors
Same here...as an EE, I have no clue as there should be very little, if any, RF interference created from powering a very low power dash cam.
lol..im still confused so is the guy taps wrong or right?You missed my point, both sides of the fuse panel are POSITIVE, one terminal is NOT POSITIVE and the other NEGATIVE. Yes, one side is supply and the other is FEED. Doublecheck your post 242
you put the rf blocker on the rear camera cable and not the front camera cable correct? i just got mine in and trying to figure out how to do this also, how did you re route your rear camera cable? did you route it down the floor strip then back up pillar on passenger side??
When you are dealing with FUSE PANEL...EVERYTHING is POSITIVE...the is no negative on a fuse panel. You get the negative from connecting the BLACK wire to a solid metal vehicle ground. On a fuse panel, there is power supplied and fused coming from the battery (constant power) or power that is fused and switched by the ignition (ignition on - power on; ignition off - power off). All I can say is that if this isn't 100% crystal clear, then you should not be doing any wiring on your car and should take it to a professional
If you would like to PM me, and discuss this via phone, I am happy to give you my cell as I hate to see people royally screw things up on their on vehicles because they do not understand electricity.
I just bought the VIOFO A129 PRO 4K front and rear camera set-up for my daughters SUV. For the price, it is rated as the best 4K camera on the market and I was very impressed. The picture quality is superior to that of the Blackvue DR900 which is almost twice the cost. The cables that come with the newer units are thick and shielded which will prevent all interference issues. The only change I wish they would make is to have right angle plugs for the top of both cameras so you can get the cameras higher up on the windows versus the cables sticking straight out of the top.
So, by understanding what you said its about keeping track of which side is the load side and supply side...if thats the case then he had his fuse tap backwards like the guy said correctWhen you are dealing with FUSE PANEL...EVERYTHING is POSITIVE...the is no negative on a fuse panel. You get the negative from connecting the BLACK wire to a solid metal vehicle ground. On a fuse panel, there is power supplied and fused coming from the battery (constant power) or power that is fused and switched by the ignition (ignition on - power on; ignition off - power off). All I can say is that if this isn't 100% crystal clear, then you should not be doing any wiring on your car and should take it to a professional
