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Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

securityguy

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Need to watch, the dash cams operate on 5v and some of the cigarette lighter plugs have the 12v to 5v converter built into the cig lighter plug.
I do agree that you need to be sure, but I have yet to see a dash cam that has the converter built into the plug itself. They have always been an external module as can be seen in thread #253. To be 100%, all you need to do is take apart the plug and see if there are any electronics inside versus just a red and black wire soldered to the two metal pieces inside.
 

dts828

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I do agree that you need to be sure, but I have yet to see a dash cam that has the converter built into the plug itself. They have always been an external module as can be seen in thread #253. To be 100%, all you need to do is take apart the plug and see if there are any electronics inside versus just a red and black wire soldered to the two metal pieces inside.
I'm just the opposite all of the cig adapters I have seen have had it built into plug. All the hardwire kits I have seen have the converter module as part of the cord.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 

Smerberj

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Just cut the cigarette plug off, strip back the wires and connect the +12V wire to a fuse tap and then to an accessory fuse and BLACK to ground and call it a day ;)
I bought a $8 adapter from my local Harbor Freight, it worked very well and everything is installed correctly. I love it!
 

Edwards

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Just a follow up. Since I installed the ferrite chokes and re-ran the rear cable, not only does everything work now but I actually think the keyless entry works better than the day I picked the truck up. Our favorite Mexican restaurant has neon signs in all the front windows and when I park there it would always slightly interfere with the keyless door lock/unlock. Since re-routing the cable it works instantly every time now.

Viofo is also shipping me a thicker, better shielded cable but that coming slow boat from China so no telling when that will arrive.
 

Billy James

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Just a follow up. Since I installed the ferrite chokes and re-ran the rear cable, not only does everything work now but I actually think the keyless entry works better than the day I picked the truck up. Our favorite Mexican restaurant has neon signs in all the front windows and when I park there it would always slightly interfere with the keyless door lock/unlock. Since re-routing the cable it works instantly every time now.

Viofo is also shipping me a thicker, better shielded cable but that coming slow boat from China so no telling when that will arrive.
Mine came with the updated thinker cable; its tough to get in behind the headliner....but I managed to get it done.
 

supercanadian

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Thank you to everyone in this thread that shared details and installs. Got my Rexing V1P yesterday in the mail and installed the front and rear cameras today hardwired to fuse 66 and grounded with the help of the pictures on here.

Hardest part was figuring out the "3M" mounting bracket as I could not get it to stick (cold garage) but was able to use some better quality 3M official pad and it worked. Although after reviewing the video I'll have to move it slightly as I can catch just a bit of the plastic box that is near the top of the windshield.
 

dmi6.7

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Hello. I’ve been searching web for a few day now. Thank you for a great tutorial on 1500 5th gen.
I have a 2019 2500 5th gen(Laramie). Unfortunately it doesn’t have a cabin fuse box below the steering wheel. I’ve looked in the manual, it only talks about the one in the engine bay. Does it really have only one or I missed something? can someone please recommend a good and safe wiring location? What can I tap into? I’m trying to hardwire radar detector and a blackvue dash cam. Thanks
 

gHiDoRa

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Hello. I’ve been searching web for a few day now. Thank you for a great tutorial on 1500 5th gen.
I have a 2019 2500 5th gen(Laramie). Unfortunately it doesn’t have a cabin fuse box below the steering wheel. I’ve looked in the manual, it only talks about the one in the engine bay. Does it really have only one or I missed something? can someone please recommend a good and safe wiring location? What can I tap into? I’m trying to hardwire radar detector and a blackvue dash cam. Thanks

All the 5th gen RAM should have the fuse box under steering wheel, did you unscrew the panel and look?
 

dmi6.7

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All the 5th gen RAM should have the fuse box under steering wheel, did you unscrew the panel and look?
Yes, I did. Apparently HD 5th gen trucks don’t have it there. Although those bolts are in the same locations.
 

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dmi6.7

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All the 5th gen RAM should have the fuse box under steering wheel, did you unscrew the panel and look?
Can you please give any suggestions to which wire I should tap into? Perhaps cigarette lighter wire?
Or maybe like this guy did on 4th gen HD truck?
LINK
 

Edwards

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Just a follow up. Since I installed the ferrite chokes and re-ran the rear cable, not only does everything work now but I actually think the keyless entry works better than the day I picked the truck up. Our favorite Mexican restaurant has neon signs in all the front windows and when I park there it would always slightly interfere with the keyless door lock/unlock. Since re-routing the cable it works instantly every time now.

Viofo is also shipping me a thicker, better shielded cable but that coming slow boat from China so no telling when that will arrive.

I got the 6mm cable from Viofo and installed it along the rocker panel passenger side (instead of in the headliner). It has resolved my RF interference issues for both keyless entry and TPMS. The difference in the cable is very subtle but obviously others were having the same issue.
Back to happy camping.
 

dailyherold

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I got the 6mm cable from Viofo and installed it along the rocker panel passenger side (instead of in the headliner). It has resolved my RF interference issues for both keyless entry and TPMS. The difference in the cable is very subtle but obviously others were having the same issue.
Back to happy camping.
Any pics of the install process going the rocker panel route?
 

Edwards

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Any pics of the install process going the rocker panel route?

No, sorry. It is ridiculously easy though. I think it's easier than through the headliner and it leaves less extra cable to have to do something with.

I put the 90* connector on the rear camera so I started there.
1. Run above C pillar plastic trim at headliner to front and then down to rear rocker. On both F/R rocker covers, they are held in place by a bunch of plastic clips. I used a plastic trim tool to pop them up. It doesn't take much force at all and then they are completely out of the way. I completely removed both rocker trims (ones with inlaid metal - on Limited), the jack cover under front seat. The trim at the bottom of the B pillar just needs to be unsnapped at front and rear leaving you with a little play. The front rocker cover is also part of the F passenger kick cover and it has two large metal clips into the side of the passenger door opening. These pull to the rear to release. Then, once all clips popped out, lift the rear of the F rocker cover up and the kick portion will rotate free of the glove box portion and come out.
2. Run the cable between the plastic wiring race and the outside rubber trim. I lifted up the rubber flap and put it underneath.
3. Insert the straight end of cable at the clear opening at the rear of the B pillar and push through. Move to F door and simply pull cable all the way through.
4. On the front rocker, there is an open channel through the plastic race that you can snake the cable through. Took like 15 seconds to do that. Pull rest cable of cable through.
5. Remove the R end of the dash panel by inserting a plastic trim tool between it and the dash and pop it all off.
6. I then took rest of cable, straightened it, and plugged into the dash cam. Route cable in headliner from cam to A pillar. Route above plastic A pillar trim, under headliner around to the door opening.
7. Run the cable under the rubber door trim flap down to end of dash opening.
8. I had ~ 10" of extra cable which I made one loop inside the dash end opening. Simply lay the rest of the cable in flush, out of the way places and replace all of your trim by just lining up the clips and snapping back into place. Done.
 

busa2009

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I do agree that you need to be sure, but I have yet to see a dash cam that has the converter built into the plug itself. They have always been an external module as can be seen in thread #253. To be 100%, all you need to do is take apart the plug and see if there are any electronics inside versus just a red and black wire soldered to the two metal pieces inside.
 

securityguy

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That converter is NOT built into the cigarette plug that comes with the camera but a standalone converter. What you posted is exactly what folks will need to engage parking mode.
 

K9_Bullet

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Thanks again Firecadet613! Traded the '19 for a '20 a couple of weeks ago and just installed the dash cam on the new truck. Came back here to see which fuse to use. Thanks!!
 

dts828

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I do agree that you need to be sure, but I have yet to see a dash cam that has the converter built into the plug itself. They have always been an external module as can be seen in thread #253. To be 100%, all you need to do is take apart the plug and see if there are any electronics inside versus just a red and black wire soldered to the two metal pieces inside.
Actually if you look at pic in #253 it appears to be a hardwire kit unless cig lighter adapters come with Wires labeled.

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Omlifecrew

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F33 and F66 both have fuses in them. The hardwire kit I have has fuses built into the wires and no extra slot to plug a second fuse into. If I remove the fuses and plug these wires in, will i then lose power to what those 2 fuses (f33 and F66) were protecting? Will the new wires with built in fuses take the place of the f33 and F66 and protect both the hardwired camera and the always on and ignition powered devices? Would it be best to just find empty fuse locations? If so which empty fuse locations have people discovered as ignition and always on? Thanks.
 

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