Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

[Edwards]

Here's an idea...

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My Ram has had poor keyfob range since day one... never gave it a second thoughy (dashcam since day one).

Hmm. Interesting...

 

[Anarxi]

These are 2 I used for mine. The top is always on.

View attachment 15179

I'm late to the party, but your F33 tap is backwards, left terminal is positive and right one is negative..

 

[kittyjo]

Does any body know the correct EV setting for back dash cam?or what works the best for the front and back for u?

 

[sic_infested]

You wouldnt happen to have a picture of the fuse layout would you? I'm using an ad-a-fuse and want to come off a load that's powered with the ignition. Or is that whole fuse block only on with the ignition?

 

[firecadet613]

You wouldnt happen to have a picture of the fuse layout would you? I'm using an ad-a-fuse and want to come off a load that's powered with the ignition. Or is that whole fuse block only on with the ignition?

Look at the first post.

 

[securityguy]

I'm late to the party, but your F33 tap is backwards, left terminal is positive and right one is negative..

They are BOTH positive

 

[Anarxi]

They are BOTH positive

no, one is always giving 12v another not. if you put tap backwards it will go through 1st fuse first (in this case original 10a), then will finisih the circuit and power 2nd fuse. which puts extra load on that 10a fuse, instead of feeding both fuses, protecting the original circuit with 10a and separately protecting dash cam circuit.

found few pics to illustrate whats going on:

this is how its wired in the original post:


and this is how it should be:


edit: added pics

 

[Edwards]

I've got some ferrite chokes arriving today but Viofo got back to me with two things. First they said not to use any loops in the rear camera cable. That will take some creative wiring especially now that I've seen the number of airbags above the headliner.
Secondly, they are shipping me a new 6mm cable to try. Apparently there are many with interference issues from the rear camera and this is more shielded that the stock 4.5mm cable. It continues.

 

[Edwards]

I've got some ferrite chokes arriving today but Viofo got back to me with two things. First they said not to use any loops in the rear camera cable. That will take some creative wiring especially now that I've seen the number of airbags above the headliner.
Secondly, they are shipping me a new 6mm cable to try. Apparently there are many with interference issues from the rear camera and this is more shielded that the stock 4.5mm cable. It continues.

Finally got it all working without interference. I installed one each of these ~4" from each end of the cable:

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I then uncoiled what was in the headliner and the extra cable (about 9') just runs down the passenger C pillar and is actually loose behind the back seat. About 2-3' of it is just laying on the carpet under the seat but no more keyfob or TPMS issues. I'm probably just going to leave that all as is until Viofo sends me the new thicker cable.

 

[securityguy]

no, one is always giving 12v another not. if you put tap backwards it will go through 1st fuse first (in this case original 10a), then will finisih the circuit and power 2nd fuse. which puts extra load on that 10a fuse, instead of feeding both fuses, protecting the original circuit with 10a and separately protecting dash cam circuit.

You missed my point, both sides of the fuse panel are POSITIVE, one terminal is NOT POSITIVE and the other NEGATIVE. Yes, one side is supply and the other is FEED. Doublecheck your post 242

 

[Anarxi]

You missed my point, both sides of the fuse panel are POSITIVE, one terminal is NOT POSITIVE and the other NEGATIVE. Yes, one side is supply and the other is FEED. Doublecheck your post 242

well.. maybe i meant left one tests "positive" for a live feed.

 

[Woolnerc]

So I installed a viofo a129 pro.
Used the viofo park wire bundle accessorie and two micro fuse splice's.
Red wire to fuse 33. Acc yellow wire to fuse 66.
Black ground to bolt on right side of fuse box.
. No tpms errors of any kind. Placed it left side of mirror. Wire to rear around passager side head liner and power across driverside and down to a pillar to fuse box. All good and tidy..

 

[Anarxi]

does anyone remember where this one plugs in? i don't remember was it always hanging and i didn't tuck it in right, or it unplugged while removing the panel. I was driving for couple days before i noticed it, but dont see any connector that would fit.

 

[securityguy]

does anyone remember where this one plugs in? i don't remember was it always hanging and i didn't tuck it in right, or it unplugged while removing the panel. I was driving for couple days before i noticed it, but dont see any connector that would fit.

Is that not your OBD2 port my friend???

 

[Smerberj]

I had this setup on my F150 and just finished the install on my RAM. I run a Viofo A129 dual dash cam, with the rear cam mounted on the passenger side of the sliding rear window (cable tucked up inside the headliner on the passenger side.

Dash cam - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTBB4R5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard wire kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQ1JYPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuse Tap (not shown in below pics) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077PBXGKQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at the owners manual, there is a fuse box located below the steering column, fuse F66 is unused, 10a and labelled as an accessory fuse. Fuses - Constant 12V is F33, switched 12V is F66.

The dash panel below the steering column is held on by two bolts at the bottom and a bunch of clips, I used a non marring trim removal tool to help loosen those up. Once it's off, you'll have open access to the fuse block.

Not pictured below is the fuse tap I used, the link above fits perfectly.

The trim panel to the left of the instrument panel pops off with trim removal tools as well (a few clips holding it on). Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen up one of the screws enough to get the ground wire in place and mounted. A few zip ties to keep the wiring in place and from bouncing around as well.

On my F150 I pulled off the A pillar trip piece to route the wiring up and into the front of the headliner, over to where I mounted the dash cam by the mirror. In the RAM, I was able to sneak it behind the A pillar trim without removing it.

Hope this helps!


***Edited - When I originally wrote this I had a G1W dash cam, I've since switched to the Viofo***

Very nice install! I love how you hard wired it, mine came with a cigarette lighter adapter, it looks corny and I'm wanting to hard wire it instead. I have a DDPAI2.

 

[Billy James]

Is that not your OBD2 port my friend???

That is what I was thinking.

 

[securityguy]

Very nice install! I love how you hard wired it, mine came with a cigarette lighter adapter, it looks corny and I'm wanting to hard wire it instead. I have a DDPAI2.

Just cut the cigarette plug off, strip back the wires and connect the +12V wire to a fuse tap and then to an accessory fuse and BLACK to ground and call it a day

 

[Anarxi]

Very nice install! I love how you hard wired it, mine came with a cigarette lighter adapter, it looks corny and I'm wanting to hard wire it instead. I have a DDPAI2.

lol im dumb. yes it is. i panicked a little when it fell off and touched my leg while driving. good bless its not a snake

 

[securityguy]

lol im dumb. yes it is. i panicked a little when it fell off and touched my leg while driving. good bless its not a snake

I think you actually meant to quote my reply to you and not @Smerberj Moreover, the OBD port is not supposed to hang. It snaps into the trim to securely hold it in place if you have not done that already.

 

[dts828]

Just cut the cigarette plug off, strip back the wires and connect the +12V wire to a fuse tap and then to an accessory fuse and BLACK to ground and call it a day

Need to watch, the dash cams operate on 5v and some of the cigarette lighter plugs have the 12v to 5v converter built into the cig lighter plug.

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