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Air conditioning Hack
- Thread starter KcRay
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waterhamhawk
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There is a nut under the handle that’s called a packing nut. If the leak is coming from there. You will need to remove the handle to get to the nut. You may only need to turn the nut less than a 1/4 turn. That should stop the leak. Easy to do, just a pain to get too. You may want to leave the handle off and just use a small crescent wrench to actuate the valve. That way if it leaks again, just tighten some more. Hope that helps
theblet
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Question, won’t the 3/4 inlet of that valve stretch the 5/8 hose? I wouldn’t want to have any trouble putting it back to normal for the dealer. Thanks
dts828
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Definitely not stretching. Just slides on. I did it based on other forum members and figured it must work. Luckily it do
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theblet
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Bought this one I’ll let you know how it goes
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-3-4-in-PEX-Barb-Ball-Valve/1000183107
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-3-4-in-PEX-Barb-Ball-Valve/1000183107
dts828
Ram Guru
I think your good. It shouldn't see anywhere near 400psi.
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U
User_3336
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Harbor freight clamps. Cheap and does the truck.
However, on a 2021 (may 21 manufacture date), the issue appears to be fixed. 40 degree vent temps, and after a while I just have to turn the a/c off.
However, on a 2021 (may 21 manufacture date), the issue appears to be fixed. 40 degree vent temps, and after a while I just have to turn the a/c off.
Hey I just ordered this one you have. Did you use 5/8” heater hose with it ? What’s the diameter inside diameter of the trucks heater hose ? It’s 5/8” also . Just want to clarify. I love my 2019 Ram 2500 , 6.4. It’s just the AC. It will start cold 38 degrees out of vent then rise to 50. Thank you for your assistance
Hello Did you get the update installed if so how is the AC ? Thank you
Hello How is your AC since your truck since yours supposedly has updated HVAC box. Have you tested temps coming out of vents ? Thanks
dts828
Ram Guru
Yes, used 5/8 heater hose. They sell it by the foot at advanced and o'reilly's.
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I got a little jealous of you guys with your quarter turn ball valves, but as I said before, I'm paranoid about brass and our coolant. So I found a stainless steel quarter turn ball valve and ordered it.
Received it last week, went to install it this weekend, and I found that my "regular" style supposed coolant valve was leaking from the top. Good thing I ordered the new valve.
Received it last week, went to install it this weekend, and I found that my "regular" style supposed coolant valve was leaking from the top. Good thing I ordered the new valve.
theblet
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Same thing happened to me with my “heater control valve” from advance auto. Those are a POS. Ball valve is the way to go
Based on everything I've read so far, not sure I want to chance the dealership maybe not re-assembling the dash components correctly for a TSB that may or may not improve AC performance as well as the "Hack" does. Sounds like too much of a gamble.
That being said, I would still like to be able to open/close heated water supply to the heater core on the fly and without having to stop, pop the hood and adjust the valve. Has anyone here actually installed some type of 12 volt heater shut-off valve with an on/off switch in the cabin? I've seen the recommendations in previous posts for the Vintage Air servo units, but wanted to know if anyone had actually installed one and where did they tap in for power, preferably power with ignition only.
Kind Regards,
Lou
That being said, I would still like to be able to open/close heated water supply to the heater core on the fly and without having to stop, pop the hood and adjust the valve. Has anyone here actually installed some type of 12 volt heater shut-off valve with an on/off switch in the cabin? I've seen the recommendations in previous posts for the Vintage Air servo units, but wanted to know if anyone had actually installed one and where did they tap in for power, preferably power with ignition only.
Kind Regards,
Lou
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I've had the cheap Advance Auto valve on mine for two years and it's been awesome. I just had the AC TSB done and it's made almost as much difference. That combined with the cheap valve now leaking has me planning on completely removing the valve tomorrow.
Prior to the valve, I'd notice at stoplights (I have ETorque) that the air would quickly get warmer causing the truck to restart to cool again. After the valve it would sit at lights not running and blowing cool for over two minutes. That showed how much heat leakage there was in the original HVAC box.
Now that I've had the TSB done, I'm getting basically the same effect at lights with the valve open, not to mention it's blowing much colder.
Prior to the valve, I'd notice at stoplights (I have ETorque) that the air would quickly get warmer causing the truck to restart to cool again. After the valve it would sit at lights not running and blowing cool for over two minutes. That showed how much heat leakage there was in the original HVAC box.
Now that I've had the TSB done, I'm getting basically the same effect at lights with the valve open, not to mention it's blowing much colder.
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