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Air conditioning Hack

So if I were to clamp off the hose, I would lose the ability to adjust the temperature, right? Like if I bumped it from LO to like 70 it would always just be coming out the coldest temp?
 
So if I were to clamp off the hose, I would lose the ability to adjust the temperature, right? Like if I bumped it from LO to like 70 it would always just be coming out the coldest temp?

No. You lose the ability to heat (think you want it warmer than it is outside). With the valve/clamp your system still cools to the setpoint and then stops the compressor. You won't freeze. Example: it's 85 outside and you have it set to 70. The system will cool to 70 and then maintain it.
 
So if I were to clamp off the hose, I would lose the ability to adjust the temperature, right? Like if I bumped it from LO to like 70 it would always just be coming out the coldest temp?
Yes you do. It will only blow cold. Your temp setting is effectively LO no matter what you set it to.

No. You lose the ability to heat (think you want it warmer than it is outside). With the valve/clamp your system still cools to the setpoint and then stops the compressor. You won't freeze. Example: it's 85 outside and you have it set to 70. The system will cool to 70 and then maintain it.
I disagree. Yes, you lose the "heat" function and the A/C compressor will operate per an AUTO setting but you are at the mercy of the outside temperature as the only thing the truck can do is cycle the A/C to maintain the temp on a warm day. On a cold day you will go way below your setting in AUTO as the truck thinks it's operating the blend door to add heat when it's just adding cold air.

If you had the temp dial that went from blue to red you are effectively putting the dial all the way to the blue side when you choke off the heat (no flow through the heater core).
 
Page 1 of this thread
I can't tell for sure if it's the same on the Eco-Diesels though, vehicle mechanics are not my strong suite. I've looked at the pictures on page 1, but I don't have a frame of reference on where all those hoses are coming from/where they're going. I wouldn't know a heater coil if it bit me on the ***.
 
Yes you do. It will only blow cold. Your temp setting is effectively LO no matter what you set it to.


I disagree. Yes, you lose the "heat" function and the A/C compressor will operate per an AUTO setting but you are at the mercy of the outside temperature as the only thing the truck can do is cycle the A/C to maintain the temp on a warm day. On a cold day you will go way below your setting in AUTO as the truck thinks it's operating the blend door to add heat when it's just adding cold air.

If you had the temp dial that went from blue to red you are effectively putting the dial all the way to the blue side when you choke off the heat (no flow through the heater core).
Yea this is the scenario I assumed would be happening. If you're completely cutting off the ability for the system to introduce any hot liquid there's no way for it to come up past LO.
 
I can't tell for sure if it's the same on the Eco-Diesels though, vehicle mechanics are not my strong suite. I've looked at the pictures on page 1, but I don't have a frame of reference on where all those hoses are coming from/where they're going. I wouldn't know a heater coil if it bit me on the ***.
Ahh yes, true, I forgot you have the eco diesel, you would need to look on your firewall where the inlet and outlet are. You can clamp either hose.
 
So if I were to clamp off the hose, I would lose the ability to adjust the temperature, right? Like if I bumped it from LO to like 70 it would always just be coming out the coldest temp?

As others said, to a point. The truck can blow outside-air temp air (or close to it), but it won't blow much hotter, as it won't have hot coolant to give it anything in the heater core.

To keep some flow in the heater core, but give me better A/C temps until I get the TSB done someday, I turn my valve to somewhere between 25%-50% open (or 50%-75% closed, however you want to say it). This allows some flow into the heater core, which in theory is good for it, but restricts it enough it doesn't get as hot as it would otherwise. I believe this is talked about earlier in the thread, although it may be many pages ago.
 
Ahh yes, true, I forgot you have the eco diesel, you would need to look on your firewall where the inlet and outlet are. You can clamp either hose.

I can't tell for sure if it's the same on the Eco-Diesels though, vehicle mechanics are not my strong suite. I've looked at the pictures on page 1, but I don't have a frame of reference on where all those hoses are coming from/where they're going. I wouldn't know a heater coil if it bit me on the ***.
Nibis is correct, and put that clamp or valve way up by the firewall on a diesel. Then you know for sure that you are only cutting off hot water to the heater core
 
Thinking I'm finally just going to do the hack. I don't trust any of my local dealers to tear apart the dash and put back together correctly. Then there are folks reporting that it's only marginally better after the TSB.

Just ordered all the parts. Will see if I can get away with 70/80% closed to still allow some flow during the summer but bring the vent temps down.
 
Sunny and around 80 degrees outside yesterday, and I could only get around 49 degree air out of the vent after leaving the AC running for about 10 minutes. Anyone with the new EcoDiesel done this hack and would be willing to share some pics of the hose locations?
 
Ok I'm new to this forum so I apologize If I'm not posting correctly.

I just bought a 2018 Ram 2500 and the AC sucks bad. Reading about this hack w the ball valve has my attention but wanted to ask a question first.

The Air coming out of the vents feel cold but with the fan on high it doesn't feel very powerful.

Is this the same for everyone?

Thank you!
Lee
 
Hello Gents!
New to the forum. I have a 2019 Ram 1500 limited with the same dreaded AC problem. Two questions:
Have you guys heard a whining noise when you turn off truck in summer. Sounds like blend door is closing and it whines sort of loud. I wonder if this also contributed to issue. Dealer said I have to replicate problem for them to address! Ugh.

two: did any of you clever geniuses ever come up with a auto option with an electrically controlled actuator valve? Was thinking of trying something like that with a Bluetooth enabled one that could do 25%-50%-75%-100% flow limits? Any thoughts?
Great job on all the workarounds and hacks btw! I hope FCA engineers peek in these forums once and a while ….👀
They might learn a thing or two of real world design problems!
Thanks Gents!
 
two: did any of you clever geniuses ever come up with a auto option with an electrically controlled actuator valve? Was thinking of trying something like that with a Bluetooth enabled one that could do 25%-50%-75%-100% flow limits? Any thoughts?
There are posts about a remote valves (manual and electric/electronic) somewhere in the previous 56 pages of this thread.

I hope FCA engineers peek in these forums once and a while ….👀
Some may do it casually but I don't think it's a requirement for their day job.

FCA Stellantis has listened and has changed the design. Whether it hit them in the wallet or they listened to the customer they made a change.

It was incorporated into production starting with the 2021 trucks and a TSB (24-001-20) for the 2019-2020 trucks. Whether that was the original problem or the most cost-effective solution nobody knows but it is better than nothing.
 

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