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Air conditioning Hack

6of36 said:
He has a signature

2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn - Delmonico Red - Customer Preferred Package 25Z - Level 2 Equipment Group - Premium Lighting Group - 4x4 - 5.7 Hemi non-ET - 3.21 axle - 2” Motofab level - Venom Power Terra Hunter x/t 275/60r20 Std Load Range - Flowmaster Flow FX Cat Back Exhaust - Retrax bed cover - vLinker MC+ obd w/ Jscan - AutoBox Wireless Carplay - Wireless Qi Charging Pad
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I do. Should I put my pre and post TSB temps in my signature too? I’m so confused
 
6of36 said:
He has a signature

2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn - Delmonico Red - Customer Preferred Package 25Z - Level 2 Equipment Group - Premium Lighting Group - 4x4 - 5.7 Hemi non-ET - 3.21 axle - 2” Motofab level - Venom Power Terra Hunter x/t 275/60r20 Std Load Range - Flowmaster Flow FX Cat Back Exhaust - Retrax bed cover - vLinker MC+ obd w/ Jscan - AutoBox Wireless Carplay - Wireless Qi Charging Pad
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Sorry for the topic chatter but with Tapatalk I have a different view than when on the browser.

Really tho I don't think the TSB will be acknowledged by a dealer if I'm already at 45 vent temp based on much of what I've read here.


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theblet said:
Maybe something is wrong with your blend door. Mt vent temps dont change with or without the hack since i had the TSB done.
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I'm thinking of what you said some more here and I wonder if the TSB does something to the system aside from fixing a blend door issue, such as something resulting in keeping the hack from working in some way, while not fully solving the AC issue.


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benb1976 said:
Sorry for the topic chatter but with Tapatalk I have a different view than when on the browser.

Really tho I don't think the TSB will be acknowledged by a dealer if I'm already at 45 vent temp based on much of what I've read here.


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Haha no worries. If the hack/clamp doesn’t change the temp then you’re good. 45 is a good vent temp for summertime.
 
benb1976 said:
I'm thinking of what you said some more here and I wonder if the TSB does something to the system aside from fixing a blend door issue, such as something resulting in keeping the hack from working in some way, while not fully solving the AC issue.


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Click to expand...
It’s also a hvac housing redesign. The issue was that some of the heater core air was bleeding into the AC air and causing the temps to be warm. Your 2022 should have this redesign already. It was only faulty on 2019 and 2020 models
 
benb1976 said:
Sorry for the topic chatter but with Tapatalk I have a different view than when on the browser.

Really tho I don't think the TSB will be acknowledged by a dealer if I'm already at 45 vent temp based on much of what I've read here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If you're a 2022 model, you shouldn't need the TSB.
I must say that since the TSB and with air temps at 105°+ for the last 50 days, mine blows ice cold. Far better than pre TSB
 
A bit off-topic, but I won’t create a new topic just for it, I'm not entirely sure if they warrant a new topic of their own. I just got my new Ram Sport less than 2 months ago from the dealer. This week, out of curiosity, I looked under the hood and noticed something that seems very unusual for a truck with less than 2 months of use: bolts on what I believe is the AC compressor are completely rusted.

Should I complain about it, or is this something usual?

IMG_1342.jpg
 
Cristyan said:
A bit off-topic, but I won’t create a new topic just for it, I'm not entirely sure if they warrant a new topic of their own. I just got my new Ram Sport less than 2 months ago from the dealer. This week, out of curiosity, I looked under the hood and noticed something that seems very unusual for a truck with less than 2 months of use: bolts on what I believe is the AC compressor are completely rusted.

Should I complain about it, or is this something usual?

View attachment 167218
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I'm seeing this at almost midnight, so I'm not going out to look, but they are probably just unplated bolts, in that location. The part is outsourced, and plated bolts are probably not in the specifications. I doubt they would replace a compressor for the look of the bolts.
 
I posted this to a new thread but wanted to post it here as it's relevant to the discussion. My AC is night and day difference, but one year and one battery change later. Still not sure what is what, but no more sweating in the cab with the AC on!

I just wanted to let people know of my experience with my 2019 Big Horn. I had the poor AC that couldn't keep up with even California heat, let alone AZ or humid Deep South heat. So, when the TSB came out, I had them complete it even though I knew they had to tear apart the dash and that concerned me a lot. After I got the truck back in June of last year, I went through the summer and felt that if there was an improvement, it was like a 5-10% improvement and there were still times even on long trips where it would not get the cab cold enough while driving. If the sun came through the window, it definitely wasn't cold enough. Fast forward to this year and the summer heat. Even on the hottest days this year it's blowing ice cold. I can't explain it, but it's either a blend door opening and closing more fully, or it took time for the coolant and oils in the compressor to move through the system but in any event, it will FREEZE us out of the cab now. Weird and unexplainable unless I want to tear apart the dash again but hey, it's better. Hopefully some of you that have had the TSB completed experienced the same. The ONLY thing that I've done to my truck after the TSB was to replace the battery. As that is a process, maybe the solenoid that moves the blend door is working better with the new juice. In any event, I'm happy, cool, and feel it was worth it.
 
My 2020 limited has had low preforming A/C since new. It was just out of warranty when the TSB came out and my dealer would not honor. Until 2 weeks ago I had not done anything. Then I put a “clamp” on my heater core line to test. Immediately I could tell a difference. I am in central Florida. Temps and humidity are high.

I wanted a solution that would not require me to manually open and close the valve so I have been testing. Found an electric valve(normally closed) that was rated for 248 F. Tested the valve and now have found a wireless switch.

Plan to install after additional testing with switch when it comes in. My hope is that I can install and be able to use the switch when I need heat or when I need some heat to clear the windshield from fogging caused by the high humidity. If all works well I will post with all parts and results.
 
TommyJAW said:
My 2020 limited has had low preforming A/C since new. It was just out of warranty when the TSB came out and my dealer would not honor. Until 2 weeks ago I had not done anything. Then I put a “clamp” on my heater core line to test. Immediately I could tell a difference. I am in central Florida. Temps and humidity are high.

I wanted a solution that would not require me to manually open and close the valve so I have been testing. Found an electric valve(normally closed) that was rated for 248 F. Tested the valve and now have found a wireless switch.

Plan to install after additional testing with switch when it comes in. My hope is that I can install and be able to use the switch when I need heat or when I need some heat to clear the windshield from fogging caused by the high humidity. If all works well I will post with all parts and results.
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Any update on this?
 
KcRay said:
Today I was able to get 36-38 degrees blowing out of both the drivers side and the passenger side ac vents. Previously I was getting 44 out of the passenger side and 50-52 out of the driver side. I installed a water shut off valve in the heater hose going from water pump to the heater core. It's the outbound side of the pump says "out"right on the hose. This stops any hot water from getting into the air conditioning system at all. You will have no heat when the valve is closed, for the heater you will have no way to control the air conditioning temperature it will be as cold as it can be. This was only a test for me if you decide to do this it will be at your own risk. In essence this proves there's definitely a blend door issue inside the dash letting hot water into the HVAC system when we are telling it not toView attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25619
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I just installed the Muzzy hack this morning. After about 10 minutes of driving the CEL came on, with code P0440. Could this be related at all? Its in reference to the EVAP System
 
trashgolf said:
I just installed the Muzzy hack this morning. After about 10 minutes of driving the CEL came on, with code P0440. Could this be related at all? Its in reference to the EVAP System
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I don’t think so

There are a few easy diy videos on YT to help you test the purge valve. (Minimal effort needed)


Code from my wife’s vehicle.
IMG_7923.png

My wife’s vehicle (2017 Pacifica) had issues with a evap code. I would clear it and it would stay gone for a while and come back randomly. Eventually it got to where I couldn’t clear it and I found out the purge valve went bad. Easy fix and took me 10 minutes. I would bet the purge valve is bad. If you own a smoke tester you can hook it up and see if you have a crack or loose hose.
 
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