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Air conditioning Hack

I've had the cheap Advance Auto valve on mine for two years and it's been awesome. I just had the AC TSB done and it's made almost as much difference. That combined with the cheap valve now leaking has me planning on completely removing the valve tomorrow.

Prior to the valve, I'd notice at stoplights (I have ETorque) that the air would quickly get warmer causing the truck to restart to cool again. After the valve it would sit at lights not running and blowing cool for over two minutes. That showed how much heat leakage there was in the original HVAC box.

Now that I've had the TSB done, I'm getting basically the same effect at lights with the valve open, not to mention it's blowing much colder.
Based on what your experience is I have come to conclusion that the TSB is the way to go as I have the same problem at stoplights with stop/start on. Thanks for the info!
 
Based on everything I've read so far, not sure I want to chance the dealership maybe not re-assembling the dash components correctly for a TSB that may or may not improve AC performance as well as the "Hack" does. Sounds like too much of a gamble.

That being said, I would still like to be able to open/close heated water supply to the heater core on the fly and without having to stop, pop the hood and adjust the valve. Has anyone here actually installed some type of 12 volt heater shut-off valve with an on/off switch in the cabin? I've seen the recommendations in previous posts for the Vintage Air servo units, but wanted to know if anyone had actually installed one and where did they tap in for power, preferably power with ignition only.

Kind Regards,
Lou

***Bump*** Still interested if anyone has installed a 12 volt valve with remote control from the cabin. I'm going to do it myself but just wanted to benefit from someone who has maybe already performed this.

Anyone who has had the TSB done cannot be certain that the dash components were put back together properly, nothing plastic was cracked, electrical connectors were seated 100% and every thing was tightened to correct factory torque specifications. Too much of a risk for rattles, creaks and electrical issues years down the road, especially when warranty is no longer.

Kind Regards,
Lou
 
I found this one, which is a normally closed shut-off valve. Supply it 12 vdc when you need heat. Now to hunt for 12 volt source that is switched off when ignition is off.

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Kind Regards,
Lou
 
My new ‘21 definitely blows colder than my ‘19. No etorque on the ‘21. Have they fixed the a/c issues with the earlier models, or did I just get lucky?

its hotter than hades down here in SW Florida, so I’m glad if I got lucky
 
Thanks KCRay, this worked great! It dropped my leaving air temps down into the low 40's, so it now does a great job removing more moisture and solving that "muggy" feeling in the cab. Conversely, the OEM air temp in the low 50's does not remove nearly enough moisture to be effective at dehumidifying. I used some 5/8" heater hose and this valve from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA9DQBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I had my son help me by holding rags over the hose ends while I was doing the work to prevent too much antifreeze to spill out. All in all it took us probably 10 minutes, and I couldn't be happier. I have to wonder, how does this slip by the RAM Engineers???

valve.jpg
 
Thanks KCRay, this worked great! It dropped my leaving air temps down into the low 40's, so it now does a great job removing more moisture and solving that "muggy" feeling in the cab. Conversely, the OEM air temp in the low 50's does not remove nearly enough moisture to be effective at dehumidifying. I used some 5/8" heater hose and this valve from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA9DQBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I had my son help me by holding rags over the hose ends while I was doing the work to prevent too much antifreeze to spill out. All in all it took us probably 10 minutes, and I couldn't be happier. I have to wonder, how does this slip by the RAM Engineers???

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You should not have to do this...there is a TSB that fixes the issue. Just go to your dealer and get the fix done!
 
The one that requires ripping the old components out?
That is correct. Many have had it done without incident. Not nearly as bad as those having their delaminated dash's replaced and, those two, have gone extremely well.
 
Wasn't trying to be a jerk, just trying to teach the guy to fish, as the old saying goes. 🤷‍♂️

Regardless, find a dealership service department you trust well to do this work, there is a lot of interior removal/reinstall to do. I will most likely be waiting for something else to require work first, if that ever happens.
 
I had it in so many times I forgot I had this done. I recall only being there less than an hour for the repair. It appears only the module was replaced. MY QUESTION - did the dealer not do all of the update ? I would say it's working slightly better but that may be in my head !
 

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I had the TSB done in June and this past Saturday it looks like something went wrong with the install. With the AC on, my passenger vents are blowing hot air and the driver vents are blowing lukewarm air. So, the ac hack was reinstalled until it goes to the dealer next Tuesday.
 
I had it in so many times I forgot I had this done. I recall only being there less than an hour for the repair. It appears only the module was replaced. MY QUESTION - did the dealer not do all of the update ? I would say it's working slightly better but that may be in my head !
I don’t remember what mine said, but it’s more involved that just changing a module. Are you vent temps different on the left and right of the center screen?
 

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