5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Final set-up, base 6 speaker system, in case someone wants a quick idea of one option:

Kicker 44KSC3504 in dash corners
Infinity Reference REF-9632ix in front doors (TWEETERS DISABLED)
Infinity Reference REF-9633ix in rear doors
Rockville 10" Powered Sub hidden behind the rear wall carpet - high level inputs off the L/R rear doors at the amp (probably will swap for a thin 12 later)

Running +6 bass, -1 Mid, -3 Treble. All speakers NEGATIVE phase as it came stock. ANC disabled (de-pinned at harness)

Sounds GREAT for a low cost setup, total cost about $350. Whatever I did could not get rid of piercing horrible treble from the front 9632's at max negative treble on the EQ, cut tweeter wire and problem solved, plenty of treble from the dash speakers and rear.
 
Final set-up, base 6 speaker system, in case someone wants a quick idea of one option:

Kicker 44KSC3504 in dash corners
Infinity Reference REF-9632ix in front doors (TWEETERS DISABLED)
Infinity Reference REF-9633ix in rear doors
Rockville 10" Powered Sub hidden behind the rear wall carpet - high level inputs off the L/R rear doors at the amp (probably will swap for a thin 12 later)

Running +6 bass, -1 Mid, -3 Treble. All speakers NEGATIVE phase as it came stock. ANC disabled (de-pinned at harness)

Sounds GREAT for a low cost setup, total cost about $350. Whatever I did could not get rid of piercing horrible treble from the front 9632's at max negative treble on the EQ, cut tweeter wire and problem solved, plenty of treble from the dash speakers and rear.
I did the same for jl audio c2 in the front doors. Cut the tweeter wires . Sounds more balance after

sman301 sman301 sman301
 
So I bought the Kicker Key 180.4 amp someone else used here, then my wife bought an install from Best Buy don't laugh) today they tried to tell me these 2019s are notorious for not seeing the correct load so they could not complete the install (I even ordered the ANC bypass from Net Audio) and that I would have to order load resistors. Are they full of it, I thought the key amp took high level inputs so it should have worked even if they did not bypass the stock amp but they said no.
Any input would be helpful.

no they are not full of it. The head unit needs to see a load or it won’t output. Resistors are only a few bucks so that should be a non issue. One thing to consider is to buy a dsp to put before your amp that has the resistors built in. That will also give you added functionality. Better to put the $ towards something useful rather than labor to install resistors since the dsp is plug and play. I would also suggest the Pac harness below which will make this install very easy and avoid anyone hacking your oem harness. It will also allow easy addition of a sub down the road if you want to add one, even if it’s a small self powered one like my kicker. Quick simple and clean.

Pac harness

Dayton dsp 408
 
no they are not full of it. The head unit needs to see a load or it won’t output. Resistors are only a few bucks so that should be a non issue. One thing to consider is to buy a dsp to put before your amp that has the resistors built in. That will also give you added functionality. Better to put the $ towards something useful rather than labor to install resistors since the dsp is plug and play. I would also suggest the Pac harness below which will make this install very easy and avoid anyone hacking your oem harness. It will also allow easy addition of a sub down the road if you want to add one, even if it’s a small self powered one like my kicker. Quick simple and clean.

Pac harness

Dayton dsp 408

No need for an external DSP with the kicker key. It is an auto tune amp. It does acceptable (for most people) DSP work. The DIY simple upgrade this a good amp. I would just add resistors. Some people don’t want to mess with a fully customizable system or spend the money or time to setup a full on DSP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No need for an external DSP with the kicker key. It is an auto tune amp. It does acceptable (for most people) DSP work. The DIY simple upgrade this a good amp. I would just add resistors. Some people don’t want to mess with a fully customizable system or spend the money or time to setup a full on DSP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you can also buy a harness with the resistors built in. it’s def a bit spendy for what you need to do. I’ll link to it below. You just buy some 5w47ohm uxcell resistors on amazon

 
So I bought the Kicker Key 180.4 amp someone else used here, then my wife bought an install from Best Buy don't laugh) today they tried to tell me these 2019s are notorious for not seeing the correct load so they could not complete the install (I even ordered the ANC bypass from Net Audio) and that I would have to order load resistors. Are they full of it, I thought the key amp took high level inputs so it should have worked even if they did not bypass the stock amp but they said no.
Any input would be helpful.
If I recall correctly the Kicker Key already has load resistors built in, just need to ensure the “radio on” button is pressed in.
 
you can also buy a harness with the resistors built in. it’s def a bit spendy for what you need to do. I’ll link to it below. You just buy some 5w47ohm uxcell resistors on amazon


Then better off getting this. https://www.kicker.com/46KISLOAD4.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Thanks to you all I started down the slippery slope of the basic 6 stereo upgrade. Bunch more work coming. Also started a simple design for a
7a4cac5c34d852599616f4e5e52400d0.jpg
new sub box template to fit my 10” pioneer.
ea3f32f18e1aab42b9b8477648910460.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I bought the Netaudio ANC bypass harness for my 5th Gen which according to their website does not need load resistors, only 4th Gen needs them.
"The 5th Gen Ram has some new twists. Ram couldn’t leave it alone, but this is actually for the better. On the 13-19 Rams, load resistors were the complication. But not this time. now it is ANC, or Active Noise Cancellation. "

Thanks for the link to the Kicker 4 channel load unit, I ordered from Crutchfield and hope this will solve it. As a fail safe I started a return to Amazon in case it turns out the amp is bad.
The Kenwood speakers went in pretty easy but this amp is a pain so far......
 
Last edited:
I finally got around to finish installing the rest of the infinity speakers in my H/K equipped truck the other day and found something odd. The LR door had one of the blue 2ohm 6x9s installed from the factory, while the other 3 doors had the correct H/K 4ohm 6x9s. That door panel definitely hadn't been off before, so I'm guessing this was a screw up on the assembly line. High five FCA!

oddball 6x9 speaker.jpg



Anyone else find a mismatched speaker in their truck?
 
No need for the Kicker load unit, just an installer that knows what he is doing. Everything went right in and worked perfect - after fixing the grounding wire.......
 
Here is a post I put up with a link to the easiest and fastest way to get your inputs for a subwoofer, sorry it is a little long but I think it is relevant to your questions.
Thanks for the links! If I use the NetAudio harness do I still need to run a power cable to the battery? I am new to this and I am trying to make this as easy as possible! Looking to replace my 6 speakers with Kickers and add a mono amp and sub. I guess I'm not getting how this NetAudio harness fits in the equation. Thanks
 
Thanks for the links! If I use the NetAudio harness do I still need to run a power cable to the battery? I am new to this and I am trying to make this as easy as possible! Looking to replace my 6 speakers with Kickers and add a mono amp and sub. I guess I'm not getting how this NetAudio harness fits in the equation. Thanks
Yes on the power wire, and ground for your your amp.
RCA's from LOC, and remote wire, you are done.
I used that exact same harness from Net Audio, worth every penny.
 
Thanks for the links! If I use the NetAudio harness do I still need to run a power cable to the battery? I am new to this and I am trying to make this as easy as possible! Looking to replace my 6 speakers with Kickers and add a mono amp and sub. I guess I'm not getting how this NetAudio harness fits in the equation. Thanks
Yes, you will still need to run a power cable to the battery and a ground to the chassis as well. The Net Audio harness unpins the ANC and is a convertor that gives you a flat RCA output signal and a remote turn on lead for your amp. The harness is plug and play into the ANC under the drivers seat and takes less then 5 minutes to connect and mount (I mounted mine with a piece of double sided tape). The harness and convertor will be located under the drivers seat and you will need then need to run RCA cables and 18 gauge remote turn on lead to the amps location. For my money, it was the fastest and easiest way to get the RCA output signal for the amp.
 
Yes, you will still need to run a power cable to the battery and a ground to the chassis as well. The Net Audio harness unpins the ANC and is a convertor that gives you a flat RCA output signal and a remote turn on lead for your amp. The harness is plug and play into the ANC under the drivers seat and takes less then 5 minutes to connect and mount (I mounted mine with a piece of double sided tape). The harness and convertor will be located under the drivers seat and you will need then need to run RCA cables and 18 gauge remote turn on lead to the amps location. For my money, it was the fastest and easiest way to get the RCA output signal for the amp.
Thanks!
 
It seems from reading this thread there are many random polarity/phase issues with the stock speakers. Looking to replace all 6 stock speakers and set the phase correctly. By using this harness and bypassing the ANC I'm thinking I will eliminate the ANC issues caused by correcting the polarity. Is this correct? Anyone else use this or something similar to avoid any issues with new speakers?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ANCCH3/iDatalink-bCH3.html
 
While Im waitibg for the truck, still D1, started putting together the pieces for my build. Best part is I had most of the items in my cache of audio Ive been hoarding for years.
Amp: 5 channel Helix HXA 500Q
DSP: Helix DSP.2
Front Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components, tweets will go where the dash speakers are.
Rear Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components

Anyone out there built a box to hide behind the rear seat? Ive heard there is a bump where the etorque battery would go. Im thinking about running a shallow mount Image dynamics IDQS12 and trying to save the underseat storage if possible.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top