5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[Dep668]

Was thinking of adding the infinity 3.5" speakers to my dash as my Alpine system just sounds lacking, mainly boomy and missing highs.

Before I buy, quick question. If I decide to go with a full custom system (new sub, amp, door speakers..) . Are their any premium offerings that would fit the dash and center for the time being that would provide a noticeable difference over the inifity 3032 ref? Just thinking ahead instead of buying twice. Plan on thinking out the rest of the setup towards the summer when i have more free time.

Thanks!

 

[Patsy1099]

Was thinking of adding the infinity 3.5" speakers to my dash as my Alpine system just sounds lacking, mainly boomy and missing highs.

Before I buy, quick question. If I decide to go with a full custom system (new sub, amp, door speakers..) . Are their any premium offerings that would fit the dash and center for the time being that would provide a noticeable difference over the inifity 3032 ref? Just thinking ahead instead of buying twice. Plan on thinking out the rest of the setup towards the summer when i have more free time.

Thanks!

JL Audio, Hertz, you could run new wires to all locations thus separating the dash/door channels and then running separate tweeters up front. Depending on how crazy $$ you want to get you have some options. I don’t think it’s necessary. Infinity’s all around, sub, dsp, amp(s), done

 

[Patsy1099]

It seems from reading this thread there are many random polarity/phase issues with the stock speakers. Looking to replace all 6 stock speakers and set the phase correctly. By using this harness and bypassing the ANC I'm thinking I will eliminate the ANC issues caused by correcting the polarity. Is this correct? Anyone else use this or something similar to avoid any issues with new speakers?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ANCCH3/iDatalink-bCH3.html

yes you can use that to bypass the anc if all you want to do is add speakers. If you want to add sub/amps then you should use the Pac harness which has all the speaker wire connections. You can also try matching the existing phase (meaning if a speaker is out of phase, leave it out if phase and if it’s in phase, keep it in phase) and see if you have anc problems or not before using the delete harness. If all you are doing is speakers you might try keeping the anc. Testing phase and swapping wires to correct phase is easy.

 

[Patsy1099]

While Im waitibg for the truck, still D1, started putting together the pieces for my build. Best part is I had most of the items in my cache of audio Ive been hoarding for years.
Amp: 5 channel Helix HXA 500Q
DSP: Helix DSP.2
Front Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components, tweets will go where the dash speakers are.
Rear Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components

Anyone out there built a box to hide behind the rear seat? Ive heard there is a bump where the etorque battery would go. Im thinking about running a shallow mount Image dynamics IDQS12 and trying to save the underseat storage if possible.

There is room behind the seats. The HK system mounts a sub behind the passenger rear. Not sure what it would all cost when said and done and if you’d like the results. You can also take a look at some of the self powered subs that come in boxes like the cerwin Vega or kicker but if you’re looking for serious bass they won’t cut it. It’s good enough for my tastes though. But if you’re set on the ID I think you can fit a shallow box IMO

 

[Dep668]

JL Audio, Hertz, you could run new wires to all locations thus separating the dash/door channels and then running separate tweeters up front. Depending on how crazy $$ you want to get you have some options. I don’t think it’s necessary. Infinity’s all around, sub, dsp, amp(s), done

Very true. That may be the route I go. Their are definitely some crazy options in custom audio. Did a bit of research, and it gets up there in $$. I may just put that toward a new set of wheels and b2 muffler. Just got my truck so theirs plenty to do!

For sure the dash will be changed. And I want to add a sub or two. Do the door speakers make a big difference in the stock system in your setup, considering its limited to a freq range? Not looking forward to the front door. Hate pulling apart door panels.

 

[idahospud]

I have a 2019 2500 Bighorn crew cab. Base model. Dumb question. How do you know if you even have ANC? I dont see and amp under any of the seats, or above the brake pedal. I see the mics for the ANC in the headliner, but Im not sure my truck came with it. I have the basic, six speaker sound system with the 5 inch screen. I changed all the speakers out to Infinity's and I am pretty happy, but I would love to have a bit more low bass. Not sure its worth all the trouble have to disable the ANC.

 

[Patsy1099]

Very true. That may be the route I go. Their are definitely some crazy options in custom audio. Did a bit of research, and it gets up there in $$. I may just put that toward a new set of wheels and b2 muffler. Just got my truck so theirs plenty to do!

For sure the dash will be changed. And I want to add a sub or two. Do the door speakers make a big difference in the stock system in your setup, considering its limited to a freq range? Not looking forward to the front door. Hate pulling apart door panels.

the doors do make a big difference. I think you notice the dash more at first because they are so bright (make sure you install bass blockers on the dash speakers, they come with the infinity’s).

Pulling the door panels are a pain but once you get the hang of it it’s fine. Some advice. Take off all screws. Then Start low on the door, lower left corner. Pry the panel with a bar so you can get you fingers in there real good. Sit on the threshold of the door opening while putting one foot on the metal part of the door in order to give you leverage. Then while pushing/holding the door with you foot, pull in the opposite direction on the panel with your hand with a short HARD yank. Be sure to stop once you have breached a couple of the tabs. You don’t need to pull the entire panel off at once otherwise the tabs which are plastic are more prone to snapping. It’s just that initial yank you need. Then go around the perimeter and pull the rest. Does that make sense? Another tip, you don’t need to disconnect the cable and completely remove the door panel. Get a chair or crate or something and just move the panel to up and to the side while you swap the speaker. This way it just snaps back together quickly. One last thing. Change the speakers with the windows down so you can see where the glass is lowered. The metra harness creates some extra wiring slack and you want to make sure that is zip tied nice and tight so the window doesn’t hit it when it goes up and down. You will see what I mean when you get in there.

sounds more complicated than it is. After the first one the other three are much easier. Good luck.

 

[Patsy1099]

I have a 2019 2500 Bighorn crew cab. Base model. Dumb question. How do you know if you even have ANC? I dont see and amp under any of the seats, or above the brake pedal. I see the mics for the ANC in the headliner, but Im not sure my truck came with it. I have the basic, six speaker sound system with the 5 inch screen. I changed all the speakers out to Infinity's and I am pretty happy, but I would love to have a bit more low bass. Not sure its worth all the trouble have to disable the ANC.

I believe if you have a hemi you have anc. Should be a small silver unit under your drivers seat. If you don’t see that then you don’t have it.

 

[Waterfowler41]

I have the installation manual for all 3 stereo systems in our trucks if anyone wants it I can email it to you. Also has the wiring diagram for all 3 systems with wire colors.

DM me your email and I’ll send it to you.

 

[Dep668]

the doors do make a big difference. I think you notice the dash more at first because they are so bright (make sure you install bass blockers on the dash speakers, they come with the infinity’s).

Pulling the door panels are a pain but once you get the hang of it it’s fine. Some advice. Take off all screws. Then Start low on the door, lower left corner. Pry the panel with a bar so you can get you fingers in there real good. Sit on the threshold of the door opening while putting one foot on the metal part of the door in order to give you leverage. Then while pushing/holding the door with you foot, pull in the opposite direction on the panel with your hand with a short HARD yank. Be sure to stop once you have breached a couple of the tabs. You don’t need to pull the entire panel off at once otherwise the tabs which are plastic are more prone to snapping. It’s just that initial yank you need. Then go around the perimeter and pull the rest. Does that make sense? Another tip, you don’t need to disconnect the cable and completely remove the door panel. Get a chair or crate or something and just move the panel to up and to the side while you swap the speaker. This way it just snaps back together quickly. One last thing. Change the speakers with the windows down so you can see where the glass is lowered. The metra harness creates some extra wiring slack and you want to make sure that is zip tied nice and tight so the window doesn’t hit it when it goes up and down. You will see what I mean when you get in there.

sounds more complicated than it is. After the first one the other three are much easier. Good luck.

Great! Doesn't sound too bad.

Has anyone played around with not having a center? For separation? Not sure which speaker is used by blindspot and safety systems.

 

[Moparian]

Great! Doesn't sound too bad.

Has anyone played around with not having a center? For separation? Not sure which speaker is used by blindspot and safety systems.

Front left dash speaker is used for blind spot, voice and safety announcements.

 

[Waterfowler41]

I installed my door speakers this weekend. Purchased everything from Crutchfield's open box site. Did 5.25" Infinity References in the front doors and 6.5" in the rears. Already have 3.5" Infinity References in my dash. Bass is basically (pun intended) non existent at this point. My mids and high are SUPER clear but no bass whatsoever. I knew this going into this upgrade which is why my next step is a 10" sub in a sealed box but I can barely squeeze bass out of the system as it stands right now. For those of you who upgrade the speakers in your base 6 but aren't looking to go the extra mile and install new sub, be mindful of your new speakers specs.

If I wasn't adding a sub I would stayed with the 6x9 frame speakers which in my opinion can deliver much better bass.

 

[idahospud]

I believe if you have a hemi you have anc. Should be a small silver unit under your drivers seat. If you don’t see that then you don’t have it.

I do have the Hemi, I will look. thank you. Does that base model stereo have a separate amp? Where else could the amp be located? If it does not, and If it does not have ANC then putting a sub it would be a easier task correct?

 

[ST3500]

While Im waitibg for the truck, still D1, started putting together the pieces for my build. Best part is I had most of the items in my cache of audio Ive been hoarding for years.
Amp: 5 channel Helix HXA 500Q
DSP: Helix DSP.2
Front Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components, tweets will go where the dash speakers are.
Rear Speakers: Dynaudio Esotan 6.5 components

Anyone out there built a box to hide behind the rear seat? Ive heard there is a bump where the etorque battery would go. Im thinking about running a shallow mount Image dynamics IDQS12 and trying to save the underseat storage if possible.

"That is the nicest choice of components that I've seen from the past 57 pages !!"
You must have those Helix components for a while now, as they are currently discontinued (they still are fantastic units !!). I'm currently waiting for a Helix V Eight DSP MK2 arriving from Germany.

I hope that your components woofers will clear the window glass, they seem quite deep (probably you will have to manufacture a spacer to project them a little forward... not a big deal).

The Image dynamics IDQS12 is almost 6" deep, have you considered the JL Audio 12TW3-D4 ? Mounting depth is only 3.5".......... and it only requires a 0.8 cu. ft. of box volume (internal net volume remaining after you substract your speaker basket and magnet displacement).

I would like to see your build future progress, I'm sure it will be very nice !!

 

[Meglomachinist]

"That is the nicest choice of components that I've seen from the past 57 pages !!"
You must have those Helix components for a while now, as they are currently discontinued (they still are fantastic units !!). I'm currently waiting for a Helix V Eight DSP MK2 arriving from Germany.

I hope that your components woofers will clear the window glass, they seem quite deep (probably you will have to manufacture a spacer to project them a little forward... not a big deal).

The Image dynamics IDQS12 is almost 6" deep, have you considered the JL Audio 12TW3-D4 ? Mounting depth is only 3.5".......... and it only requires a 0.8 cu. ft. of box volume (internal net volume remaining after you substract your speaker basket and magnet displacement).

I would like to see your build future progress, I'm sure it will be very nice !!

Appreciate the your feedback on my choice of components. Have owned and still own lots of high end bits, some stored for that perfect opportunity. Was a sound q guy and installer for years and amassed a stock pile of gine gear over the past 10 or 15 years. I think I bought those helix amps on pro deal in like 2005. They are still new in the box, actually have 3 of them. Dynaudios almost always require custom spacers being a touch under 3 inchez deep. For the Idq was going to try their new shallow mount, 3.5 deep and always loved that sub. Looking for not power thirsty clean option and loved the regular idq so thinking about trying it out. Will post pics oncw the truck gets here and I get everything in.

 

[ningals3223]

No need for the Kicker load unit, just an installer that knows what he is doing. Everything went right in and worked perfect - after fixing the grounding wire.......

How do you like those kenwood components? Were they a pretty decent upgrade from factory before you put the amp in? Did you lose or gain any volume/power? What did you end up needing to install the kicker key? Thanks

 

[FFemerson]

I do have the Hemi, I will look. thank you. Does that base model stereo have a separate amp? Where else could the amp be located? If it does not, and If it does not have ANC then putting a sub it would be a easier task correct?

The base unit does not have an external amp. If you have the hemi and the base stereo anything you find that looks like an amplifier is actually the ANC unit, and it’s under the driver seat.

 

[idahospud]

The base unit does not have an external amp. If you have the hemi and the base stereo anything you find that looks like an amplifier is actually the ANC unit, and it’s under the driver seat.

I have looked twice and still have not found the ANC. If my truck did not come with the ANC (its basically a tradesman with some Bighorn add-ons), Ironically it may be the best stereo to add-on to, making it better to put the subwoofer as an add-on. we shall see. thanks for the help.

 

[Jonwoods81]

Has anyone found any direct replacement for the stock rear sub?

 

[ningals3223]

Anyone know if you could take the Alpine amp and add it to the base system? Trying to find cheaper/easier ways to amplify new door speakers. Didnt know if you could just unplug the ANC and plug the alpine in its place.

Edit: Nevermind looks like the only pins that matchup are on the input side. Also looks like the door speaker don't even get amplified on the alpine system.