Patsy1099
Spends too much time on here
I’m sure it’s been tried but has anyone tried to pull the speaker signals directly from the wires for the rear speakers under the drivers seat and leaving anc in tact?
yes that’s no problem.
I’m sure it’s been tried but has anyone tried to pull the speaker signals directly from the wires for the rear speakers under the drivers seat and leaving anc in tact?
I would caution against this if the rear speakers are receiving an ANC signal (I believe they do). You may encounter droning from the ANC on whatever speaker/sub you're adding. I had to disconnect ANC when replacing the 6x9 speakers because of this. Prior to that I also tried tapping the factory sub signal for a powered sub and got horrible ANC droning, which led to me buying the PAC unit for RCA hookup.Thanks turbo. I have a audio control processor so i don’t need the rca output as I can use speaker levels and be ok.
I’m sure it’s been tried but has anyone tried to pull the speaker signals directly from the wires for the rear speakers under the drivers seat and leaving anc in tact?
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I would caution against this if the rear speakers are receiving an ANC signal (I believe they do). You may encounter droning from the ANC on whatever speaker/sub you're adding. I had to disconnect ANC when replacing the 6x9 speakers because of this. Prior to that I also tried tapping the factory sub signal for a powered sub and got horrible ANC droning, which led to me buying the PAC unit for RCA hookup.
Thanks. Just to make sure my understanding of this pac harness is correct. Just by plugging in the anc-ch01 harness from pac to the anc connections, you will be bypassing the anc system, correct?
So in my application, i can buy the harness then splice into the rear signals in the harness for my inputs into my sub amp. This would bypass anc and give me my signals for my sub amp to do its thing, correct?
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Kinda what I was thinking sadly. Would have been perfect if it was an active sub line I could have pulled from. Thank youit’s either for the sub, which you don’t have, or the etorque, which you don’t have. Based on location it sounds like etorque. Either way it doesn’t matter because you can’t use the harness for anything.
Kinda what I was thinking sadly. Would have been perfect if it was an active sub line I could have pulled from. Thank you
No clue but it would be early next week before I'd be able to. If it's not done before then, I'll check it out and see.Has anyone used an amp meter to test all the wires to it? Are any of the wires “hot.” Could that have a turn on lead in it?
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No clue but it would be early next week before I'd be able to. If it's not done before then, I'll check it out and see.
FWIW I installed JL Audio C2 350x speakers in the dash, no bass blockers, no reversing polarity, and it sounds fabulous at any volume level.For all the audio knowledge ppl here I have a quick question.
i purchased and installed the infinity dash speakers from crutchfield. They sound better and are crisp ...
BUT, when i turn the volume up, say a bit past the middle, they start to pop and make sounds.
crutchfield said that there is a capacitor or something like that , that i have to install in line on the positive side. Comes with the box
Is this true, are you ppl that did this upgrade install them too???
I'm not sure if PAC makes an ANC bypass harness. I do remember someone made one and you could search for that on here. The PAC module I am speaking of connects behind the infotainment and sends a full, flat audio signal via RCA for left and right front and rear channels, along with a non-fading (subwoofer) channel.Thanks. Just to make sure my understanding of this pac harness is correct. Just by plugging in the anc-ch01 harness from pac to the anc connections, you will be bypassing the anc system, correct?
So in my application, i can buy the harness then splice into the rear signals in the harness for my inputs into my sub amp. This would bypass anc and give me my signals for my sub amp to do its thing, correct?
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Depends on your factory audio. The HK system amplifier does crossover on its own so no capacitors are needed to filter out the low range on the small dash speakers. On the lower end factory audio systems, there may not be any crossover from the headunit or amp, and you would need the capacitors.For all the audio knowledge ppl here I have a quick question.
i purchased and installed the infinity dash speakers from crutchfield. They sound better and are crisp ...
BUT, when i turn the volume up, say a bit past the middle, they start to pop and make sounds.
crutchfield said that there is a capacitor or something like that , that i have to install in line on the positive side. Comes with the box
Is this true, are you ppl that did this upgrade install them too???
For all the audio knowledge ppl here I have a quick question.
i purchased and installed the infinity dash speakers from crutchfield. They sound better and are crisp ...
BUT, when i turn the volume up, say a bit past the middle, they start to pop and make sounds.
crutchfield said that there is a capacitor or something like that , that i have to install in line on the positive side. Comes with the box
Is this true, are you ppl that did this upgrade install them too???
I wouldn't bother with coaxial in the doors. Just use component 6x9 and throw out the tweeters. Components anywhere else would get difficult and require a custom install since the stock speaker locations for the mids/tweeters are all coax.What would be the next best speaker to upgrade? Front or rear doors?
I have the base 6 speaker system.
anyone consider components or is everyone doing coaxial?
I second this. Components would create a better balance systemI wouldn't bother with coaxial in the doors. Just use component 6x9 and throw out the tweeters. Components anywhere else would get difficult and require a custom install since the stock speaker locations for the mids/tweeters are all coax.
Out of curiosity would it be possible to just replace the factory sub that you have pictured in the enclosure with a Pioneer shallow mount?For anyone curious on what the factory amp and sub looks like from Alpine system. Pic attached.
Now running 2 Digital Designs amps on (2) JL 10W3v3-2 subs, along with all Focal interior components. Running Axxess Digital Signal Processor (AX-DSP) into PAC CH41. Running right at 2000 watts. This sheeeeeet screams and is clean/concert hall sound as I demand from all my system builds.
Now working on 12.1" Tview headrest monitors for the "borrowed" kiddos in back. Will run those to a Western Digital "media center" for video etc. and they will just use wireless headphones.
**Note** My local go to "stereo guy" did my stereo as I pulled it all out my Charger Scat before trading it.....So if ya have any "deep" questions, you might want to turn to your local stereo gurus, if one of us goes silent on ya.
Sure, if you can find a sub that fits. May want another amplifier to power it though.Out of curiosity would it be possible to just replace the factory sub that you have pictured in the enclosure with a Pioneer shallow mount?
I was hoping he still had the factory box, that way it could be measured...that pioneer only requires 3 1/8'' for mounting depth. Stuff that plasticy box with some pillow filling and might not sound half bad.Sure, if you can find a sub that fits. May want another amplifier to power it though.