TLDR: THANK YOU
@tdb0021 AND
@Jimmy07! I got ACC and BSM to work.
Follow the below at your own discretion. I can’t guarantee this will work for you, this is just what worked for me.
Paraphrased from
@tdb0021 - The guide below and information provided by others throughout this and other threads is intended for those who have experience with AlfaOBD and assumes you are familiar with basic terms and procedures. This is especially true if you are going to dabble into wiTECH.
If you are good with everything but the DASM calibration, you can skip to the end.
Helpful Links
Attachments
- @tdb0021 – ACC Guide
- @tdb0021 - BSM Guide
- @Jimmy07 – BSM Wiring Harness Install
- wiTECH DASM Calibration Steps
- wiTECH J2534 Guide
My ride: 2019 Ram 1500 V8 (New Body)
Note: Please read through the thread. Your questions most likely are answered.
Now may be a great time to grab yourself a beer, or beverage of your choice, as this will be a somewhat lengthy read.
Here’s my experience. I am going to reattach the guide written extremely well by
@tdb0021 as well as the BSM Harness install by
@Jimmy07. The reasoning for Jimmy’s attachment for BSM is that this method requires no drilling. Either way works.
Most of the following information is included in the two guides, except for how I got the DASM working, but this is how I walked through it.
Every part I ordered came out of a 2019 RAM 1500 (new body). I know, for the most part, that the 5th gen is interchangeable, but this made me more comfortable.
BSM
This project first started out as only adding BSM, ACC wasn’t really on the radar until I stumbled upon the guides attached and then it was, “well, we are already here.”
I first bought two new LED taillights with housing for BSM sensors, since mine did not come with that stock. These ran about $100 each but may be able to be found cheaper.
I then got two BSM sensors on eBay, one was $75 and the other $90. I would make sure to buy from trusted sellers with that allow returns (not to take advantage of the sellers), just in case there are issues with the sensors themselves upon receipt. The two I ordered were in great shape.
Next, I bought harness from
@Jimmy07 and installed using his guide which is attached.
Windshield
I then set an appointment to replace my windshield, since this also was not the correct stock one. I used a local glass shop as opposed to Safelite, as I didn’t want to go through insurance and the local shop’s pricing was much better. I used an aftermarket Windshield providing a VIN for a vehicle that had it installed.
ABS/HCU
I ordered the ABS and HCU as one unit from eBay for $125. The windshield shop installed this for me and worked with me to manually bleed the ABS while I used AlfaOBD as listed in the guide by
@tdb0021. This shop was awesome!
ACC Switch
My ACC cruise control switch came in before my other parts, so I installed this next. I paid a bit of premium for this, since only 1 person had this on eBay. EVERY SINGLE MOPAR AFTERMARKET WEBSITE HAD THIS ON BACKORDER, EVEN IF LISTED IN STOCK. Ask me how I know, lol. They would take my order and email me the next day it was on backorder; "do you want to wait or cancel." I held the orders until I found one on eBay.
Found some videos online as the process to release the latches for the airbag were tricky to work with as well as resecuring them following the installation. Every other part of installing the switch was straightforward.
Videos:
1.
ACC Install on TRX
2.
Ram 1500 Steering Wheel Removal
Rain Sensor
I thought I had the right sensor for rain, but of course, mine came with just the humidity one. This was ordered from eBay for approximately $60 and I switched them out. Good luck with the gel, lol. Took me 3 goes at it, but I am sure it will be easier for someone a little handier.
Rearview Mirror/DASM
My rearview mirror also needed to be replaced. I ordered this from eBay as well. Mine happened to come with the covers/trims and the DASM all in one package for $150 which was a steal!!! Harness for DASM was purchased from
@Jimmy07.
Radio Receiver/Screen/Trim
My RAM came with Uconnect 4C 8.4 w/NAV. I spent a week going back and forth on if I wanted to upgrade to Uconnect 4 12” or Uconnect 5 12”. I ultimately settled on the 4, so that I can keep my Wi-Fi Hotspot etc. There are other threads with information on the switch/upgrade, and people who didn’t lose features going to Uconnect 5, so I will leave this at that.
I found the Uconnect 4 12” screen, bezel and receiver as an all-in-one sale on
www.car-part.com. Not all listings have the exact images, so this was a lot of calling each of the shops to verify what was included in the sale. Some were receiver only, some were screen only, some didn’t have LKA or AutoPark, so it’s worth calling to ensure. I ordered the one with LKA and AutoPark, for a later upgrade. Also, you may be able to negotiate with them.
Others have used LKQ or eBay to order this, but I went with what I listed.
Harness for Uconnect 4c 8.4 to Uconnect 4 12 was purchased on eBay. Most listings are Uconnect 4 to 5 harnesses, so make sure you contact seller and verify.
DASM Calibration
Now for the last and final piece of this. As I said earlier, my DASM was included in the sale of my mirror.
Everything was relatively straightforward except for the actual DASM Calibration. The calibration itself was easy, but getting to that point was frustrating. I went to multiple dealerships who on the phone said it would be no issue to calibrate and align the DASM. I was completely upfront that I had the windshield replaced and that I installed the DASM.
Despite them saying they could do it, they will 1000% call you if drop it off or visit you in the lounge if you are waiting, and tell you that your vehicle is not capable of calibrating, citing sales codes, regional restrictions, capability, etc. THIS IS JUST NOT TRUE. After you explain everything, which they do not want to hear because they are certified techs and you are just a guy/gal dropping off your truck, they will usually lean into not wanting the liability of doing so. Good luck finding a dealership or shop willing to do it. A lot of people have had success, but no one and I mean no one, in my area would do it.
----------So now for the part that I haven’t seen in any thread, and my apologies if someone has touched on this already.-----------------
I took the dive into using WiTECH 2.0 (aftermarket) which is the software your dealership uses.
I won’t get too much into WiTECH 2.0 at all, and use at your own risk, but there are 3 subscriptions you must purchase.
- WiTECH 2.0 or WiTECH 2.0-VIN Subscription
- The first is for unlimited VINs for whatever time allotment you purchase
- The second is 1 VIN only for whatever time allotment you purchase. (I CHOSE THIS OPTION AS I AM ONLY WORKING ON MY VEHICLE AND IT GAVE ME 30 DAYS FOR THE SAME PRICE AS OPTION 1 FOR ONLY 3 DAYS)
- ECU Flash Subscription – This is $35.00 for one year.
- Tech Authority – required for flashing anything and some programming.
- I purchased the 3-day subscription.
Depending on your project, budget and how much time you need, it will be up to you.
Steps provided by WiTECH for setup are also provided in an attachment here. This attachment is specific to J2534, but other devices are options as well.
I used this device -
TOPDON RLink J2534 - Amazon. This device is not one of their 5 approved J2534 devices, but it did work with the software!! If you use this device, please note you need to download their software first to activate and bind it. It will not be recognized by wiTECH 2.0 until you do. Ask me how I know, lol.
Once you are all set up and connected to your vehicle, you can follow @Jimmy07’s guide,
DASM Calibration - Jimmy07 - Post #902, of this thread.
After everything above, my ACC and BSM are fully functioning with no DTCs.
Good luck!!
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