my experience, patience is a virtue, also you will get it if you pause for a while and change the filter at all changes, do you open up the oil fill cap?.. some people do, some don't, but I always do, again, I do all mine myself. Mopar filter or WIX or K&NFor those of you doing your own oil changes. Are you getting 7 qts back from the drain. In our vehicles with the 3.6 pentastar i get almost all 6 qts back. Done 2 changes on my new ram and both times only got about 6.25 qts back. Does some of it just not make it out the drain? Is the MDS consume oil? Just wondering why getting almost a full qt. low after 3k changes.
Can you post a link to the App, or its actual name so we can find it. That would be great to have.
Yes, it was something like that, but it drained from the bottom, and had a small hose attached. Hard to find it thought. Google searches don't find it. Only that one.
I saw what you were mentioning today actually you can get that type of filter for automobiles also. It has a 1-in nut on the end of the filter to use a regular 1-in socket on instead of those stupid filter cups that end up twisting and crumbling some filters. They also had the hole to put a wire through for rough use or racing safety measures. K&N Gold for the nut on the bottom of the filterMost aircraft maintenance shop will have a homemade one very similar to what you are describing. The SOP is also to puncture the filter and let it drain out. The biggest difference is the oil filter on a typical small plane is on the top and very accessible. It also has a bit shaped end what you can use a wrench to open. And contrary to popular belief or manufacturer recommendations; none of them are tightened using a torque wrench, they are all hand torqued. They all have safety wires though unlike cars
Changed mine at about 1100. Waiting on my mishimoto catch can. No metal chunks or flakes which was very nice to see (or not see)
Normally change original oil at 1000 and again at 5000 and again every 5000. I always have used full synthetic ( Mobile One ) This time I dumped it at 664 and the lifter noise when cold started has gone away. Unless the engine comes with mobile one from the factory it is important to dump the conventional oil at 1000 or less. I could explain in detail but they won't let me write a book in this blog. For what its worth I have been in the car business for 41 years, running service depts and body shops.How many miles are you guys doing your first oil changes at?
It captures the oil vapor that gets sucked back into the motor. And you empty it every oil change or soI have never used a catch can. What is the benefit?
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How about it. I read these comments going into my first oil change so I had an idea, but wow is that a bad location for an oil filter. Have they always been there? I always had my dealer change my 2013 1500. My 392 3500 had its own built in funnel type thing below the filter so any oil spilling would just drain past everything. It was a breeze to change that filter.
Here's a catch can dump after the first 5000 miles. About the same as every other 5.7 I've owned.
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This is the Billet Technologies catch can. I've had it for years on multiple vehicles.Looking at this I am now very interested in installing a catch can. I am guessing that burning all of the oil in the combustion chamber is not good for your spark plugs or the top of the piston chamber. Which brand is this one? I found the Mishimoto that is black for $183 on Amazon and wondered if this one is cheaper?
What about for cars that use a break in oil ?Normally change original oil at 1000 and again at 5000 and again every 5000. I always have used full synthetic ( Mobile One ) This time I dumped it at 664 and the lifter noise when cold started has gone away. Unless the engine comes with mobile one from the factory it is important to dump the conventional oil at 1000 or less. I could explain in detail but they won't let me write a book in this blog. For what its worth I have been in the car business for 41 years, running service depts and body shops.
Any engine with conventional oil should go to full synthetic. Do not go to full synthetic on a high mileage engine that has always run conventional, It may start leaking.What about for cars that use a break in oil ?
cars such as honda that use a high moly break in oil say to go the full 10 miles . thats why I asked.Any engine with conventional oil should go to full synthetic. Do not go to full synthetic on a high mileage engine that has always run conventional, It may start leaking.
I have a hard time understanding that logging in carfax has anything to do with it being ‘ok’ with FCA. Could you please explain how me putting an arbitrary record in Carfax app means anything to FCA? There is still no way to verify the maintenance was actually done. A lot of us have been changing oil in our own cars for decades and not had issues getting warranty work done when needed.I talked to my dealer about doing DIY oil changes and if would void warranty, they told me as long as its registered maintenance through carfax then it's ok. It's a free app I've been using for years for all my vehicles maintenance, so I enter required information and it has an option to take picture of a recipet.