When are you doing your first oil change?

[Cmerkert]

I talked to my dealer about doing DIY oil changes and if would void warranty, they told me as long as its registered maintenance through carfax then it's ok. It's a free app I've been using for years for all my vehicles maintenance, so I enter required information and it has an option to take picture of a recipet.

Can you post a link to the App, or its actual name so we can find it. That would be great to have.

 

[ramfan]

Change at 4000 .had it in for recalls and the dealer said 4 to 5 thousand miles also rotated tires

 

[cotonymopar]

in all of my 3 Hemis I have had in the past (203000 miles on the 03, 116000 on the 12, and my new one) I will be using Mobil 1... full synth.... and I usually go every 7000-9000 miles. I have had really good luck with the oil.. FYI, the older the oil gets, the more it seems to get through the valve back into the intake. (why I now have a catch can on my Hemi) I do all my own oil changes, and general maintenance.. (fluids, brakes, etc)

 

[Ch28]

For those of you doing your own oil changes. Are you getting 7 qts back from the drain. In our vehicles with the 3.6 pentastar i get almost all 6 qts back. Done 2 changes on my new ram and both times only got about 6.25 qts back. Does some of it just not make it out the drain? Is the MDS consume oil? Just wondering why getting almost a full qt. low after 3k changes.

 

[cotonymopar]

For those of you doing your own oil changes. Are you getting 7 qts back from the drain. In our vehicles with the 3.6 pentastar i get almost all 6 qts back. Done 2 changes on my new ram and both times only got about 6.25 qts back. Does some of it just not make it out the drain? Is the MDS consume oil? Just wondering why getting almost a full qt. low after 3k changes.

my experience, patience is a virtue, also you will get it if you pause for a while and change the filter at all changes, do you open up the oil fill cap?.. some people do, some don't, but I always do, again, I do all mine myself. Mopar filter or WIX or K&N

 

[Nedbeir]

I’m leasing my truck and the dealer said every 5k bring it in. I’ll do that but I will take it in at 2k for the first oil change.

I am a former Indiana State Trooper who drove a new 2011 charger with 46 miles on it. First oil change on that was 2k and that was under HARSH conditions. It lasted until 2015 with 135,000 miles when I changed careers. As far as I know, it was still going strong at 165k. It did NOT get a break in period. When I picked it up (again 46 miles), I was immediately called to a crash that allowed me to open it up for about 20 minutes. The 5.7 is a fantastic engine and loved every minute of that 5.7. As a side note, I drive my new 5.7 a bit slower these days.

 

[Bionicbo]

Can you post a link to the App, or its actual name so we can find it. That would be great to have.

CARFAX Car Care App - Apps on Google Play

View your car’s service records and find out when maintenance is due.

play.google.com

That's the Canadian version on Google play, but it's also available on iOS and a U.S version

 

[FirstTimeRamDriver]

Yes, it was something like that, but it drained from the bottom, and had a small hose attached. Hard to find it thought. Google searches don't find it. Only that one.

Most aircraft maintenance shop will have a homemade one very similar to what you are describing. The SOP is also to puncture the filter and let it drain out. The biggest difference is the oil filter on a typical small plane is on the top and very accessible. It also has a bit shaped end what you can use a wrench to open. And contrary to popular belief or manufacturer recommendations; none of them are tightened using a torque wrench, they are all hand torqued. They all have safety wires though unlike cars

 

[Patsy1099]

Did mine yesterday at 4K.

 

[Cmerkert]

Most aircraft maintenance shop will have a homemade one very similar to what you are describing. The SOP is also to puncture the filter and let it drain out. The biggest difference is the oil filter on a typical small plane is on the top and very accessible. It also has a bit shaped end what you can use a wrench to open. And contrary to popular belief or manufacturer recommendations; none of them are tightened using a torque wrench, they are all hand torqued. They all have safety wires though unlike cars

I saw what you were mentioning today actually you can get that type of filter for automobiles also. It has a 1-in nut on the end of the filter to use a regular 1-in socket on instead of those stupid filter cups that end up twisting and crumbling some filters. They also had the hole to put a wire through for rough use or racing safety measures. K&N Gold for the nut on the bottom of the filter

 

[alangsam]

Changed mine at about 1100. Waiting on my mishimoto catch can. No metal chunks or flakes which was very nice to see (or not see)

I have never used a catch can. What is the benefit?


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[1guyandtools]

How many miles are you guys doing your first oil changes at?

Normally change original oil at 1000 and again at 5000 and again every 5000. I always have used full synthetic ( Mobile One ) This time I dumped it at 664 and the lifter noise when cold started has gone away. Unless the engine comes with mobile one from the factory it is important to dump the conventional oil at 1000 or less. I could explain in detail but they won't let me write a book in this blog. For what its worth I have been in the car business for 41 years, running service depts and body shops.

 

[Granite5thgen]

I have never used a catch can. What is the benefit?


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It captures the oil vapor that gets sucked back into the motor. And you empty it every oil change or so

 

[JJRamTX]

How about it. I read these comments going into my first oil change so I had an idea, but wow is that a bad location for an oil filter. Have they always been there? I always had my dealer change my 2013 1500. My 392 3500 had its own built in funnel type thing below the filter so any oil spilling would just drain past everything. It was a breeze to change that filter.

Here's a catch can dump after the first 5000 miles. About the same as every other 5.7 I've owned.

Looking at this I am now very interested in installing a catch can. I am guessing that burning all of the oil in the combustion chamber is not good for your spark plugs or the top of the piston chamber. Which brand is this one? I found the Mishimoto that is black for $183 on Amazon and wondered if this one is cheaper?

 

[swarggs]

Looking at this I am now very interested in installing a catch can. I am guessing that burning all of the oil in the combustion chamber is not good for your spark plugs or the top of the piston chamber. Which brand is this one? I found the Mishimoto that is black for $183 on Amazon and wondered if this one is cheaper?

This is the Billet Technologies catch can. I've had it for years on multiple vehicles.

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[bgmshrm]

Normally change original oil at 1000 and again at 5000 and again every 5000. I always have used full synthetic ( Mobile One ) This time I dumped it at 664 and the lifter noise when cold started has gone away. Unless the engine comes with mobile one from the factory it is important to dump the conventional oil at 1000 or less. I could explain in detail but they won't let me write a book in this blog. For what its worth I have been in the car business for 41 years, running service depts and body shops.

What about for cars that use a break in oil ?

 

[Gen3CoupeTX]

People say old-schoolers have trouble changing their ways. Not always true. I used to do initial oil changes at 500 miles ... But now go 1,000 on the new factory vehicles like my Ram. Do I have any science to back up the need to do so? Nope. But I know $40 isn't something I'm going to over-think.

 

[1guyandtools]

What about for cars that use a break in oil ?

Any engine with conventional oil should go to full synthetic. Do not go to full synthetic on a high mileage engine that has always run conventional, It may start leaking.

 

[WhoDat]

I always change my own oil/filter until its ready for a tire rotation, then ill deal with the dealer

 

[bgmshrm]

Any engine with conventional oil should go to full synthetic. Do not go to full synthetic on a high mileage engine that has always run conventional, It may start leaking.

cars such as honda that use a high moly break in oil say to go the full 10 miles . thats why I asked.