The end that is closest to the cab is not because of the drain hole that's in place. The tailgate end might be but I didn't try as it doesn't effect how it opens or closes.
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tonneau covers that work with the multifunction tailgate?
- Thread starter Kooch80
- Start date
WGRamMA
New Member
I replaced my tonneau cover with a Bak MX4. I've included some pictures to help other people with their installation. I installed the RO Brackets. I cut the rails (IMG_3091) 10 5/8" x 7/8" to fit around the RO Brackets. I used a cutting wheel (IMG_3099) to cut the rail. Then I drilled out the rivets in the bracket. I removed the drain housing (pull it off the end) and cut a small piece off the end to account for the RO Bracket thickness 1/4". I deserted the drain housing drill a bigger how to allow water to drain and used some self-tapping screws to re-secure the bracket (IMG_3093) to the rail. Below are some pictures to help give a visual of the cuts and a few pictures of the results.
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c3k
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Add me to the RO Bracket club. Or rather, ATTEMPTING to join the RO Bracket club.
I removed the original RAM brackets and used some Bolt Depot, grade 12.9 sockets. (8mm x 1.25 x 35mm for the front wall, and 8mm x 1.25 x 80mm for the sidewall. 3 of each for each bracket.)
I had two (three?) problems.
See the pix...
The upper image is the front wall. (This is the right-corner bracket.) you can see that the bracket needs to go to the right. The conical shape of the bolt head will assist in moving it. Gotta love the 12.9 steel.
The lower image shows the sidewall. That recessed bolt/washer is interfering with the mount. The bolts on the sidewall are not moving the bracket forward. The bracket hole is not clearing the washer. That may be causing about 2mm of clearance issue seen on the front bolt holes.
The next step will be to remove the offending bolt and washer and then reinstall them. If the hole does not provide clearance for the washer for reinstall, then I'll have to burr out that hole.
The other problem? See below:
The front-most bolt (80mm) bottoms out on the sidewall. Grrr.
I just ordered 70mm and 65mm bolts. I've reinstalled the OEM bracket and will re-attempt this next week after the new bolts arrive.
I removed the original RAM brackets and used some Bolt Depot, grade 12.9 sockets. (8mm x 1.25 x 35mm for the front wall, and 8mm x 1.25 x 80mm for the sidewall. 3 of each for each bracket.)
I had two (three?) problems.
See the pix...
The upper image is the front wall. (This is the right-corner bracket.) you can see that the bracket needs to go to the right. The conical shape of the bolt head will assist in moving it. Gotta love the 12.9 steel.
The lower image shows the sidewall. That recessed bolt/washer is interfering with the mount. The bolts on the sidewall are not moving the bracket forward. The bracket hole is not clearing the washer. That may be causing about 2mm of clearance issue seen on the front bolt holes.
The next step will be to remove the offending bolt and washer and then reinstall them. If the hole does not provide clearance for the washer for reinstall, then I'll have to burr out that hole.
The other problem? See below:
The front-most bolt (80mm) bottoms out on the sidewall. Grrr.
I just ordered 70mm and 65mm bolts. I've reinstalled the OEM bracket and will re-attempt this next week after the new bolts arrive.
Looks good! Were you having problems with the tailgate closing if you didn’t cut the end with the drain hole? I ended up leaving if as is and the tailgate closes with no problem.
davidn0021
Well-Known Member
Sorry I haven't been on the forums much, been busy. But basically you have to cut the rails at the front of the bed back about the width of whatever brackets you want to use (I have the RO brackets). The OEM brackets *will not* work with the rails and cover. I believe I had to cut it back about 5/8" or so. After that, you just install it as regular. I also would suggest adding some automotive weather stripping to top of the bed by the cab to prevent water penetration. I'll try to take some pics tomorrow.
What countersink bit did you use? I've never done a countersink before and I'm looking to get what I need now before my cover arrives. Thanks!
Highertechnology
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Just installed a retraxone mx and it went smoothly with the right on brackets.
Just wish I would’ve bought XR rails since the wife just dropped on me she’d like to do some overlanding.
Probably going to have to buy XR rails and have 2 sets. Not sure anyone would trade or need flush rails.
Just wish I would’ve bought XR rails since the wife just dropped on me she’d like to do some overlanding.
Probably going to have to buy XR rails and have 2 sets. Not sure anyone would trade or need flush rails.
c3k
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A few thoughts...
^^^
I'm in the same boat. Retrax sells the XR rails for ~$400 ish. Sigh.
For the cone-head bolts on the sidewall, the front-most bolt I used were 70mm and they snugged the bracket up just fine.
BUT. My bracket on the right side (see pix upstream) was too far out of tolerance to use cone-head bolts. They just wouldn't seat fully (12.9 bolts and a LOT of torque). Instead, I swapped ALL my bolts over to button-head. An 80mm button-head will fit in all 3 side holes. (Button-head length is measured differently than cone-head.) I ordered all from Boltdepot.com.
In retrospect, I should've kept the cone-head bolts in the front. I've got my retrax pro as tight to the front of the bed as possible, and the rear ...just... clears the tailgate. The extra clearance the (almost) flush cone-heads would've given me would've helped.
When/if I swap out to T-slot rails, I'll swap those bolts.
Edited with strikethroughs and italics. I've lived with it and have some more thoughts...
As to the RetraxPro, I'll give it a B+. Having lived with it for several months, I'm changing my grade to a solid A to A+.
1. The clamp system is meh.
- Clamps don't fit between the adjustment screws in the front location, because the truck rail has one of the bumps protruding down right there. It gives the clamp less than 1/8" of gripping surface: totally insufficient. I moved the clamp toward the rear of the truck about 2".
- The instructions say the side rails should be installed with a 2 degree cant. C'mon. The clamps pull the rails down and in, preventing any sort of cant as described. Some shims would have been useful.
The XR rails have a different and far better clamp system. I used plastic shims to achieve the 2^ tilt (yes, I even used a friggin' level! Stabila, naturally.
)
2. Closing
- The handle is on the left side. Pulling it shut that means the right side "lags" behind. Fully closed, the left side is tight against the back of the rail, and gives the best possible water seal. The right side is almost 1/4" open. I can grab it (from underneath with tailgate open) and even it up. But I've got to do that every time.
- Related to the above: since it cannot close evenly, I'll have to ADD A HANDLE to the rear/right side. That'll be drilling and caulking.
With a little use, the sides are now even and there is no lag. Win.
3. Temperature
- This thing is 4x6 frying pan. The black paint really soaks in the heat. I'm in NC and we've had several 90+ days. The metal burns, as in causing a LOT of pain. I stood in the bed, cover retracted, to swap CHMSL bulbs. If my knees touched the metal, it was unbearable. (No, I'm not a *****. ) I should get my remote thermometer and test the temps.
- Related to the above: when closed, this turns the cargo bed into an oven.
Looking at the bright side, I could just toss sandwiches in the bed on road trips and then I'd have a hot meal ready to go when I stop for fuel.
Or, in winter operation, it could be a survival capsule, absorbing solar energy and protecting me from the wind.
But, yeah, it gets hot.
4. Drain tubes
- I have not had a heavy rain, so I cannot speak to the water-tightness. However, the drain tubes are too short. Putting them in the sidewall holes leaves a pronounced "U". The free end in the hole is not long enough to anchor it. I Foresee it filling with water and pulling that free end back INTO the bed, thereby draining water into the cargo bed. I bought 1/2" ID hose (and clamps) and cut them longer.
- Drain plugs are held in by two plastic clips. One of mine is barely in. I don't trust it.
I contacted Retrax and they sent me new tubes and connectors. I replaced the bad connector and swapped the hoses for the longer, braided, ones. They are working perfectly.
5. Space
- I knew I'd lose the bed space taken up by the cartridge. I did NOT expect the cover to not fully retract back into the cartridge. Instead, it leaves a few slats still exposed. A total of almost 6". That may not sound like much, but the total package, as installed, takes up the front 18" of the bed. (Obviously, the space underneath can still be used.)
Apparently, the cartridge/cannister just needed to be used more. Now, the cover slides completely into the cannister with no lip sticking out blocking the bed...at all.
The pros are self-evident: it'll keep debris out of the bed (if not water...jury still out on that); it's secure (no knifing it to see what you've got); it's easy to operate (even if it needs another handle on the passenger side); it allows upright items (fridge, washer/dryer, grill, etc.) to be carried without having to remove the cover (like some lid types), as long as you don't need the first 18" of bed.
In sum, having lived with it for 5 months or so, I'm loving it. My initial gripes have pretty much resolved themselves as the device loosened up with use.
This is a great item. I've carried plenty of 8-foot sheet goods, both flat and sticking over the closed tailgate. This cover works with them all.
The ONLY issue, and minor, is what happens when I open the cover if there is debris (leaves, acorns, seeds, etc.) on top. Some of them fall into the cannister. I assume they will eventually accumulate there (that which does not get pulled out when the cover is pulled out of the cannister), and that I'll have to figure out how to flush/clean it out. While it is closed, the weatherstripping does an outstanding job of sealing the cannister.
^^^
I'm in the same boat. Retrax sells the XR rails for ~$400 ish. Sigh.
^^^
For the cone-head bolts on the sidewall, the front-most bolt I used were 70mm and they snugged the bracket up just fine.
BUT. My bracket on the right side (see pix upstream) was too far out of tolerance to use cone-head bolts. They just wouldn't seat fully (12.9 bolts and a LOT of torque). Instead, I swapped ALL my bolts over to button-head. An 80mm button-head will fit in all 3 side holes. (Button-head length is measured differently than cone-head.) I ordered all from Boltdepot.com.
In retrospect, I should've kept the cone-head bolts in the front. I've got my retrax pro as tight to the front of the bed as possible, and the rear ...just... clears the tailgate. The extra clearance the (almost) flush cone-heads would've given me would've helped.
When/if I swap out to T-slot rails, I'll swap those bolts.
Edited with strikethroughs and italics. I've lived with it and have some more thoughts...
- Clamps don't fit between the adjustment screws in the front location, because the truck rail has one of the bumps protruding down right there. It gives the clamp less than 1/8" of gripping surface: totally insufficient. I moved the clamp toward the rear of the truck about 2".
- The instructions say the side rails should be installed with a 2 degree cant. C'mon. The clamps pull the rails down and in, preventing any sort of cant as described. Some shims would have been useful.
The XR rails have a different and far better clamp system. I used plastic shims to achieve the 2^ tilt (yes, I even used a friggin' level! Stabila, naturally.
)- The handle is on the left side. Pulling it shut that means the right side "lags" behind. Fully closed, the left side is tight against the back of the rail, and gives the best possible water seal. The right side is almost 1/4" open. I can grab it (from underneath with tailgate open) and even it up. But I've got to do that every time.
- Related to the above: since it cannot close evenly, I'll have to ADD A HANDLE to the rear/right side. That'll be drilling and caulking.
With a little use, the sides are now even and there is no lag. Win.
3. Temperature
- This thing is 4x6 frying pan. The black paint really soaks in the heat. I'm in NC and we've had several 90+ days. The metal burns, as in causing a LOT of pain. I stood in the bed, cover retracted, to swap CHMSL bulbs. If my knees touched the metal, it was unbearable. (No, I'm not a *****.
) I should get my remote thermometer and test the temps.- Related to the above: when closed, this turns the cargo bed into an oven.
Looking at the bright side, I could just toss sandwiches in the bed on road trips and then I'd have a hot meal ready to go when I stop for fuel.
Or, in winter operation, it could be a survival capsule, absorbing solar energy and protecting me from the wind.
But, yeah, it gets hot.
4. Drain tubes
- I have not had a heavy rain, so I cannot speak to the water-tightness. However, the drain tubes are too short. Putting them in the sidewall holes leaves a pronounced "U". The free end in the hole is not long enough to anchor it. I Foresee it filling with water and pulling that free end back INTO the bed, thereby draining water into the cargo bed. I bought 1/2" ID hose (and clamps) and cut them longer.
- Drain plugs are held in by two plastic clips. One of mine is barely in. I don't trust it.
I contacted Retrax and they sent me new tubes and connectors. I replaced the bad connector and swapped the hoses for the longer, braided, ones. They are working perfectly.
- I knew I'd lose the bed space taken up by the cartridge. I did NOT expect the cover to not fully retract back into the cartridge. Instead, it leaves a few slats still exposed. A total of almost 6". That may not sound like much, but the total package, as installed, takes up the front 18" of the bed. (Obviously, the space underneath can still be used.)
Apparently, the cartridge/cannister just needed to be used more. Now, the cover slides completely into the cannister with no lip sticking out blocking the bed...at all.
The pros are self-evident: it'll keep debris out of the bed (if not water...jury still out on that); it's secure (no knifing it to see what you've got); it's easy to operate (even if it needs another handle on the passenger side); it allows upright items (fridge, washer/dryer, grill, etc.) to be carried without having to remove the cover (like some lid types), as long as you don't need the first 18" of bed.
In sum, having lived with it for 5 months or so, I'm loving it. My initial gripes have pretty much resolved themselves as the device loosened up with use.
This is a great item. I've carried plenty of 8-foot sheet goods, both flat and sticking over the closed tailgate. This cover works with them all.
The ONLY issue, and minor, is what happens when I open the cover if there is debris (leaves, acorns, seeds, etc.) on top. Some of them fall into the cannister. I assume they will eventually accumulate there (that which does not get pulled out when the cover is pulled out of the cannister), and that I'll have to figure out how to flush/clean it out. While it is closed, the weatherstripping does an outstanding job of sealing the cannister.
Last edited:
irwin 1/2” I believe
enigmaaron
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For those looking for a cover and rack combo that will work with the MFT I finally got around to installing my Adarac Aluminum today. Works perfectly with the Bak Revolver X4s. Good thing I got the air ride suspension, can just barely clear the garage door at entry/exit height!
greenlawnracing
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I searched, but unfortunately there are 329483209582309 hits due to most folks going the Right On Bracket route.
I ordered a truck with MFT w/o Ramboxes.
Beyond the Extang Solid Fold 2.0....isn't there another option for a hard folding? I thought there were one or two other vendors that made one.
Haven't decided if I want to go the bracket route.
I ordered a truck with MFT w/o Ramboxes.
Beyond the Extang Solid Fold 2.0....isn't there another option for a hard folding? I thought there were one or two other vendors that made one.
Haven't decided if I want to go the bracket route.
I'm with you, I still find it hard to believe that none of the manufacturers have come up with one that will fit the MFT without Ram Boxes. Mine came with a factory soft tri-fold, I hate it. I also don't want to go with the Right On Brackets, not because I don't believe the would work but it seems like everyone that has used them has also had to modify their covers to fit.
Undercover ultra flex does not have to be modifed with the RO brackets other than 12" of weatherstripping which can easily be replaced (if you are worried about resale)
Scottygolf
Active Member
Truxedo Sentry has 2 options that fit the MFT without changing OEM Brackets. That is what I went with. pleased with it.
2020, 1500 Rebel, shorter bed, no RAMBox and I've got the MFT... not a lot of options. I want something flush, hard-top tri-fold.
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Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin
Last edited:
greenlawnracing
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Do you still like this after having it for a few months? As you have had both this and the solid fold, can you give us the pros and cons of both?
How easy is it to remove if you need the entire bed?
how do you feel about security? That’s my main issue with it, it seems like it’s not a strong or a secure as something like a Bak Flip MX4
DaveLink
Member
I am thinking the Truxedo is the way I am headed. Just not keen on hacking a new cover and/or replacing the factory brackets, as much as I hate the limited options.
greenlawnracing
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Same sentiment here. I went to a local store and compared several covers with the salesman today. I’d prefer a few other models, but I’d say this is 85% as good although it’s about $100 more.
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