A few thoughts...
Just installed a retraxone mx and it went smoothly with the right on brackets.
Just wish I would’ve bought XR rails since the wife just dropped on me she’d like to do some overlanding.
Probably going to have to buy XR rails and have 2 sets. Not sure anyone would trade or need flush rails.
^^^
I'm in the same boat. Retrax sells the XR rails for ~$400 ish. Sigh.
Did the 70mm or 65mm work out for you?
^^^
For the cone-head bolts on the sidewall, the front-most bolt I used were 70mm and they snugged the bracket up just fine.
BUT. My bracket on the right side (see pix upstream) was too far out of tolerance to use cone-head bolts. They just wouldn't seat fully (12.9 bolts and a LOT of torque). Instead, I swapped ALL my bolts over to button-head. An 80mm button-head will fit in all 3 side holes. (Button-head length is measured differently than cone-head.) I ordered all from Boltdepot.com.
In retrospect, I should've kept the cone-head bolts in the front. I've got my retrax pro as tight to the front of the bed as possible, and the rear ...just... clears the tailgate. The extra clearance the (almost) flush cone-heads would've given me would've helped.
When/if I swap out to T-slot rails, I'll swap those bolts.
Edited with strikethroughs and italics. I've lived with it and have some more thoughts...
As to the RetraxPro, I'll give it a B+. Having lived with it for several months, I'm changing my grade to a solid A to A+.
1. The clamp system is meh.
- Clamps don't fit between the adjustment screws in the front location, because the truck rail has one of the bumps protruding down right there. It gives the clamp less than 1/8" of gripping surface: totally insufficient. I moved the clamp toward the rear of the truck about 2".
- The instructions say the side rails should be installed with a 2 degree cant. C'mon. The clamps pull the rails down and in, preventing any sort of cant as described. Some shims would have been useful.
The XR rails have a different and far better clamp system. I used plastic shims to achieve the 2^ tilt (yes, I even used a friggin' level! Stabila, naturally. )
2. Closing
- The handle is on the left side. Pulling it shut that means the right side "lags" behind. Fully closed, the left side is tight against the back of the rail, and gives the best possible water seal. The right side is almost 1/4" open. I can grab it (from underneath with tailgate open) and even it up. But I've got to do that every time.
- Related to the above: since it cannot close evenly, I'll have to ADD A HANDLE to the rear/right side. That'll be drilling and caulking.
With a little use, the sides are now even and there is no lag. Win.
3. Temperature
- This thing is 4x6 frying pan. The black paint really soaks in the heat. I'm in NC and we've had several 90+ days. The metal burns, as in causing a LOT of pain. I stood in the bed, cover retracted, to swap CHMSL bulbs. If my knees touched the metal, it was unbearable. (No, I'm not a *****.
) I should get my remote thermometer and test the temps.
- Related to the above: when closed, this turns the cargo bed into an oven.
Looking at the bright side, I could just toss sandwiches in the bed on road trips and then I'd have a hot meal ready to go when I stop for fuel.
Or, in winter operation, it could be a survival capsule, absorbing solar energy and protecting me from the wind.
But, yeah, it gets hot.
4. Drain tubes
- I have not had a heavy rain, so I cannot speak to the water-tightness. However, the drain tubes are too short. Putting them in the sidewall holes leaves a pronounced "U". The free end in the hole is not long enough to anchor it. I Foresee it filling with water and pulling that free end back INTO the bed, thereby draining water into the cargo bed. I bought 1/2" ID hose (and clamps) and cut them longer.
- Drain plugs are held in by two plastic clips. One of mine is barely in. I don't trust it.
I contacted Retrax and they sent me new tubes and connectors. I replaced the bad connector and swapped the hoses for the longer, braided, ones. They are working perfectly.
5. Space
- I knew I'd lose the bed space taken up by the cartridge. I did NOT expect the cover to not fully retract back into the cartridge. Instead, it leaves a few slats still exposed. A total of almost 6". That may not sound like much, but the total package, as installed, takes up the front 18" of the bed. (Obviously, the space underneath can still be used.)
Apparently, the cartridge/cannister just needed to be used more. Now, the cover slides completely into the cannister with no lip sticking out blocking the bed...at all.
The pros are self-evident: it'll keep debris out of the bed (if not water...jury still out on that); it's secure (no knifing it to see what you've got); it's easy to operate (even if it needs another handle on the passenger side); it allows upright items (fridge, washer/dryer, grill, etc.) to be carried without having to remove the cover (like some lid types), as long as you don't need the first 18" of bed.
In sum, having lived with it for 5 months or so, I'm loving it. My initial gripes have pretty much resolved themselves as the device loosened up with use.
This is a great item. I've carried plenty of 8-foot sheet goods, both flat and sticking over the closed tailgate. This cover works with them all.
The ONLY issue, and minor, is what happens when I open the cover if there is debris (leaves, acorns, seeds, etc.) on top. Some of them fall into the cannister. I assume they will eventually accumulate there (that which does not get pulled out when the cover is pulled out of the cannister), and that I'll have to figure out how to flush/clean it out. While it is closed, the weatherstripping does an outstanding job of sealing the cannister.