So you want to tow a camper! Discussion thread.

[devildodge]

So you want to tow a camper!

The first thing you need to do is decide which camp you fall in. The best camp to be in is to own neither the truck or the camper. This allows you to research and keep feelings out of your decision. This allows you to easily sit back and learn the process. The next camp is owning the truck or...

5thgenrams.com

Do not forget. This is the information thread to this discussion thread.

 

[Trooper4]

Not gonna' comment on what vehicle he had, what hitch (can't see it), what length the trailer was, don't know how fast he was going or anything else...
Just to say that a longer trailer can cause the "tail wagging the dog" situation like the video shows.

Edit- Aside from SUV's as TV's, bumper pull trailer physics causes TT's to be less stable than 5vers, (but most all 150/1500's cannot tow a fiver safely so the long bumper pulls are often used by peeps with families).
Trailer weight and length vs the TV's weight and wheelbase is also a big deal. So is speed, winds, TV tires, type of hitch and driver experience.

All this to say: don't be this guy... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siVH_cr5ZnE
(Start at 50 seconds, you can stop at 1:10) Somewhere in the latter part the commercial driver said that there were no serious injuries. Credit seat belts and maybe air bags for that.

Not to start an argument, but "most all 150/1500's can't pull a fiver safely" is an opinion, but yes, some should not, and weights should be followed. But then, some drivers should never tow with a 3500 either. When speeds and weights override good common sense any tow is an accident waiting to happen, as the video shows.
On another note, that video is just south of where I live, and some context is needed. I drive it regularly, and speeding is a real problem there, but wind seldom is, as it is usually a tailwind in that stretch. That is a long downhill run, and semis regularly do 65 + in that area, although for arguments sake, we'll say he was doing 60mph. The auto speed in the area is 70, of which I would guess that the trailer/tow vehicle were going at a minimum. When a bumper pull passes a semi, the side winds and bow wake from the semi cause all kinds of interesting things to happen. And, it looks like it did. In the video, it looks like the driver applied the brakes which only worsened the situation, as the trailer was pushing the truck. If he had used the trailer brakes only to stretch brake, he very well would have straightened out, and with full shorts, slowed down and rethunk what he was doing.
After towing bumper pulls and fivers for many tens of thousands of miles for work, I learned quickly that the trailer brakes, when set to break 60%/40% to the truck, but also using them to straighten out the waggle when needed, are the best thing since buttered bread.

This fellow has a pretty good bit of info, although, not all pertains to travel trailers, but is still a wealth of information

 

[Willwork4truck]

Thanks for your insights on both the area road and the braking.
No issue on the 1500/150 and 5vers, I almost never see that combo so that’s not a concern. Perhaps even rv dealers are hesitant to say it’s ok.

 

[dfrink]

Out of curiosity, how did you measure the loaded tongue weight?

Learning lessons here…. I estimated tongue weight. Today I measured with a scale. Came out to 976 lbs! I’m thinking my 800# bars need upgrading.

 

[5thGenLoco]

Learning lessons here…. I estimated tongue weight. Today I measured with a scale. Came out to 976 lbs! I’m thinking my 800# bars need upgrading.

Learning myself as we shop for TT's. The dry numbers always run low from what I am finding. When I see the dw tongue listed I add in propane and battery weights because those aren't part of the dw. They can be a significant chunk.

 

[Redfour5]

Two inches is pretty normal for any truck irrespective of springs. You put around 800 lbs tongue weight on a hitch (full 30 lb propane tanks/two batteries) and something is going down. It's when you start going over three, your view up front is compromised and the front end feels light that you should be very concerned. Adjusting the WDH can address sag in back and should be done first. Look at the videos of your set up. They are out there I am pretty sure. I had the airbags on my 2015 and left them at three psi when NOT towing. I only put them at around 10 to 12 psi when towing. The "guy" at the dealership had a Ram 1500 pulling a slightly bigger trailer than mine and had the same airbags and said that was what he did and after experimenting that was what he felt worked best. He took pride in the sag on truck was less than an inch "before" I put the airbags on per his adjustment of the WDH. He took a washer out during the install. Adjusting the WDH is the priority with the air bags secondary. They should not be depended upon to compensate for a WDH that is not adjusted correctly.

Ok, did my first t

Learning myself as we shop for TT's. The dry numbers always run low from what I am finding. When I see the dw tongue listed I add in propane and battery weights because those aren't part of the dw. They can be a significant chunk.

Two 30 lb propane tanks full and two group 24 batteries are ĺike 195 lbs. A weight distribution hitch is going to be around 70/80 lbs.

 

[dfrink]

I just ordered a set of these for my 1500. I'm good on spec for tow capacity (according to my calculations). I have a tradesman with the max tow capacity for our trucks. Towing a Coleman 2455 BH, 5700lb dry, 662 hitch weight. I'm using a eaz-lift 800 (10,000 gw, 1,000 tongue). When the WDH is hooked up my front stays within a half inch, but my rear sags close to 2 inches. I'm guessing this may be in part due to the coil springs on this truck? I had the WDH setup at a local reputable shop. The truck feels good when towing, but I don't like the sag. My understanding is that I need to figure out the right PSI for the bags, and then look at setting up the WDH again. Curious on what PSI to start with? Also, can I take measurement at the wheel wells before and after hooking up and possibly avoid having to re-do the WDH? Assuming that the front stays even and the rear only settles .5-1" after being hooked up would that be safe?

Update to my situation. I actually "measured" my hitch weight. Dry was advertised as 660#. Measured = 975#. I took another look at my eaz-lift WDH. I have one rated for 1400# max tongue weight. My spring bars are 800#. So, I think I need to get either 1000# or 1200# spring bars (thoughts?). I ordered a set of ride-rite air bags. They should be here this week. My plan is, install the airbags. Order new springs. Hook up the trailer and take it to a nice level spot. Re-check the unhooked heights of the receiver and tongue and then possibly (probably) adjust the WDH height.

My truck has 1660# payload. I plan to start with around 25-30psi in the airbags (could use advice on this part)? I'm going to reach out to Firestone for a recommendation. I figure with the wife and I in the cab (300# total) that only leaves 300# of additional weight. I will be loading the trailer from now on (not putting stuff in the bed of the truck). I think after I do all of the above I should be good to go.

Lesson learned, this is way more complicated than "My truck has a max tow of 11,500#, so a 7500# trailer is nothing". Also, it's not really that complicated, just took a bit of reading and help from you fine folks. Thanks!

 

[devildodge]

Oh boy. When people see the 6.4l in the Grand Wagoneer and then see the GVWR...oh boy this is gonna be fun. Oh boy oh boy oh boy

 

[IvoryHemi]

Oh boy. When people see the 6.4l in the Grand Wagoneer and then see the GVWR...oh boy this is gonna be fun. Oh boy oh boy oh boy

That’s on par with the Expedition Max 7,760 lbs GVWR...

But Ouch that’s one heavy Jeep with a 6,400 lb curb weight!

 

[Willwork4truck]

Learning myself as we shop for TT's. The dry numbers always run low from what I am finding. When I see the dw tongue listed I add in propane and battery weights because those aren't part of the dw. They can be a significant chunk.

A full (to 80%) regular 20# tank is 37 lbs so x 2 that's 74 lbs.
A typical group 24 or 27 FLA battery with case is maybe 40-50#, more if it is a bigger group 29 or 31. battery
Peeps are also getting electric trailer hitch jacks, that's another increase.
So easily another 140-150 lbs there.
(Edited for clarity)

 

[d2theave]

Hello - I'm about a week out for my first time towing a camper and my friend let me borrow his small / lightweight pop-up camper. I drove it around and practiced backing up into a few spots before returning it to his house. I was on the road for about an hour and backed it up probably around 5-6 times with about 15min between each - driving to new locations and so on.

When I brought it back to his house, I attempted to backup his driveway, which is flat, when suddenly my power steering shutdown and I received the following error "POWER STEERING SYSTEM OVER TEMP". When I was backing it up I wasn't going hard left / right just doing the normal corrections to get it straightened out. It did return to normal about 5 min letting it cool down.

I did search about this on the forums and I saw another user post about something similar when he was teaching his daughter how to backup into an area and someone commented about it being electric and getting hot from use.

Has anyone else experienced this and is this something that should be a concern when I go on my trip and just in general is this normal? I do have a service appointment on Thursday for oil and tire rotation, so I do plan on asking about it to see what they say.

Thanks for the input

2020 RAM 1500 LIMITED CREW CAB 4X4

 

[5thGenLoco]

DO NOT, concern yourself with passenger weight allowances.

There are no allowances in payload. These allowances...are payload.

Payload is the amount of weight your truck can have added to it until GVWR is reached.

Knowing your specific trucks front and rear axle weights are more important than any other number.

Staying under front and rear GAWR is absolutely necessary.

So, is it 150 for the driver only, or 300 for driver and passenger??

 

[Johnny_H]

What if you’re over GVWR by 200lb? 500lb? Will the truck suddenly not perform? Will the bearings melt? Suspension fail? Are you liable for damages in a crash? Can your vehicle be impounded if you’re inspected on a highway scale?

Perhaps I’m naive or very dangerous, but I think driving an overloaded truck by let’s say 200-500lb over GVWR properly loaded at an appropriate speed and conditions is safer than some of these morons I see towing 20ft TTs or boats at 90mph.

I’ve done it on fishing trips with the boys - 5 guys averaging 250lb and a 4000lb dry boat plus gas and gear with a loaded bed. On a limited lol. I’m easily at 2000lb payload and honestly the truck doesn’t sweat it in the least. I’m not doing it regularly and I also think a 2500 for this would be overkill.

I feel like I’m about to get flamed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IvoryHemi]

What if you’re over GVWR by 200lb? 500lb? Will the truck suddenly not perform? Will the bearings melt? Suspension fail? Are you liable for damages in a crash? Can your vehicle be impounded if you’re inspected on a highway scale?

Perhaps I’m naive or very dangerous, but I think driving an overloaded truck by let’s say 200-500lb over GVWR properly loaded at an appropriate speed and conditions is safer than some of these morons I see towing 20ft TTs or boats at 90mph.

I’ve done it on fishing trips with the boys - 5 guys averaging 250lb and a 4000lb dry boat plus gas and gear with a loaded bed. On a limited lol. I’m easily at 2000lb payload and honestly the truck doesn’t sweat it in the least. I’m not doing it regularly and I also think a 2500 for this would be overkill.

I feel like I’m about to get flamed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah your not alone. I weighed my new camper setup and as expected I’m a few hundred pounds over GVWR but still under GAWR. The truck just shrugs it off with ease

 

[gsks]

Hi all,

Great threads here on towing with lots of good data and information. Great place to learn. I have picked up a new truck and a new travel trailer.

Data for the truck: 2021 Big Horn Night Edition. 5.7l eTorque, 3.21, Crew Cab, e2 WDH installed, D rated A/T rubber
7100 GVW
1701 payload
8501 max tow
5399 base weight
13900 GCWR

Data for trailer: 4674 UVW
6395 GVWR
1721 payload
480 dry hitch

I did a double weigh at the CAT scale today. For the most part both the truck and trailer were configured as they would be on a trip, minus a moderate cooler of food and clothes in the trailer. So there will be some added weight in the TT and likely a little in the TV as well.

Wanted to unhitch and weigh the TT by itself but it did't happen. Truckers were waiting in line for the scale and I wasn't able to weigh the trailer by itself.

The TV by itself had a Steer Axle @ 3500, Drive Axle 2580, Gross Wt 6080

The reweigh with RV and TT gave Steer Axle @ 3340, Drive Axle 3340, Trailer Axle 4740, Gross Wt 11420

Attempting to come up with a reasonable tongue weight I added together the Steer and Drive numbers with the trailer attached and then subtracted them from the weigh ticket for just the truck.

3340+3340=6680
6680-6080=600 lb assumed hitch weight

Is this the correct way to look at it with the info I have?

In trying to evaluate the hitch weight as a % and wanting to hit the suggested 13%, do I use the weighed trailer axle weight of 4740?

If that's correct, the calculation comes fo 616 lbs. Pretty close.

What am I missing and not getting into my skull?

Thanks much
Greg

 

[IvoryHemi]

Hi all,

Great threads here on towing with lots of good data and information. Great place to learn. I have picked up a new truck and a new travel trailer.

Data for the truck: 2021 Big Horn Night Edition. 5.7l eTorque, 3.21, Crew Cab, e2 WDH installed, D rated A/T rubber
7100 GVW
1701 payload
8501 max tow
5399 base weight
13900 GCWR

Data for trailer: 4674 UVW
6395 GVWR
1721 payload
480 dry hitch

I did a double weigh at the CAT scale today. For the most part both the truck and trailer were configured as they would be on a trip, minus a moderate cooler of food and clothes in the trailer. So there will be some added weight in the TT and likely a little in the TV as well.

Wanted to unhitch and weigh the TT by itself but it did't happen. Truckers were waiting in line for the scale and I wasn't able to weigh the trailer by itself.

The TV by itself had a Steer Axle @ 3500, Drive Axle 2580, Gross Wt 6080

The reweigh with RV and TT gave Steer Axle @ 3340, Drive Axle 3340, Trailer Axle 4740, Gross Wt 11420

Attempting to come up with a reasonable tongue weight I added together the Steer and Drive numbers with the trailer attached and then subtracted them from the weigh ticket for just the truck.

3340+3340=6680
6680-6080=600 lb assumed hitch weight

Is this the correct way to look at it with the info I have?

In trying to evaluate the hitch weight as a % and wanting to hit the suggested 13%, do I use the weighed trailer axle weight of 4740?

If that's correct, the calculation comes fo 616 lbs. Pretty close.

What am I missing and not getting into my skull?

Thanks much
Greg

6680-6080 = 600 lbs TW

600+ 4740 = 5340 trailer

600/5340 = 11.2% TW

 

[nc_beagle]

Thanks for your insights on both the area road and the braking.
No issue on the 1500/150 and 5vers, I almost never see that combo so that’s not a concern. Perhaps even rv dealers are hesitant to say it’s ok.

I saw a Nissan Frontier pull in beside us at a KOA pulling a 5th wheel. It was this one: https://escapetrailer.com/the-5-0-escape/, but it still surprised me. I'm almost certain it was a Frontier and not a Titan. Didn't seem big enough to be a Titan.

 

[gsks]

6680-6080 = 600 lbs TW

600+ 4740 = 5340 trailer

600/5340 = 11.2% TW

Thanks for the missing piece. Appreciate it.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

Gonna jump in here.

I have a 2022 Limited on order (see my sig) and it looks like I will be waiting quite a bit longer than I thought for my exact payload number. From all the research I've done (including some very helpful sleuthing from this forum), I should be right around 1200lbs, so we'll go with that as my "exact" number for now.

Mine and my wife's number one trailer choice has been narrowed down to this:

Sunset Trail Super Lite Travel Trailers - SS222RB Floorplan | Crossroads RV

Review the Sunset Trail Super Lite SS222RB floorplan.

www.crossroadsrv.com

It looks pretty comfortably doable to me but I'm confused about a few things.

I know the hitch weight listed is dry so I've been adding 200lbs as a top-end estimate for a loaded tongue (filled propane tank(s) and battery, and a WDH). Is there another, better and more precise way to calculate this?

Also, there is a slightly larger version of this trailer with a higher dry hitch weight but lower GVWR. How does that work? I am probably not going to go with that one as it's 30 feet long and I'm afraid that will give me a bit too much wag potential.

I have seen trailers with considerably higher dry hitch weights than this one (say 560-640lbs), which threaten to (or would) put me over payload with my family in the truck, but have a dry weight and GVWR anywhere from 1,000 to 1,800lbs lower, suggesting it's a much easier tow. How is it that some trailers have a hitch weight that's doable for me, but a GVWR that, if the cargo capacity of the trailer was maxed out (or close to it), would make it exceed the GVWR of my truck, which makes me nervous that it's too big?

Just trying to get some clarification here. It's all a bit overwhelming. Thanks!

 

[IvoryHemi]

Gonna jump in here.

I have a 2022 Limited on order (see my sig) and it looks like I will be waiting quite a bit longer than I thought for my exact payload number. From all the research I've done (including some very helpful sleuthing from this forum), I should be right around 1200lbs, so we'll go with that as my "exact" number for now.

Mine and my wife's number one trailer choice has been narrowed down to this:

Sunset Trail Super Lite Travel Trailers - SS222RB Floorplan | Crossroads RV

Review the Sunset Trail Super Lite SS222RB floorplan.

www.crossroadsrv.com

It looks pretty comfortably doable to me but I'm confused about a few things.

I know the hitch weight listed is dry so I've been adding 200lbs as a top-end estimate for a loaded tongue (filled propane tank(s) and battery, and a WDH). Is there another, better and more precise way to calculate this?

Also, there is a slightly larger version of this trailer with a higher dry hitch weight but lower GVWR. How does that work? I am probably not going to go with that one as it's 30 feet long and I'm afraid that will give me a bit too much wag potential.

I have seen trailers with considerably higher dry hitch weights than this one (say 560-640lbs), which threaten to (or would) put me over payload with my family in the truck, but have a dry weight and GVWR anywhere from 1,000 to 1,800lbs lower, suggesting it's a much easier tow. How is it that some trailers have a hitch weight that's doable for me, but a GVWR that, if the cargo capacity of the trailer was maxed out (or close to it), would make it exceed the GVWR of my truck, which makes me nervous that it's too big?

Just trying to get some clarification here. It's all a bit overwhelming. Thanks!

Website numbers are a crap shoot, they are consistency inaccurate.

dig in a little further and look for actual stickers. In this case you’ll find:

222RB GVWR is 7,520 lbs
253RB GVWR is 7,550 lbs