So you want to tow a camper! Discussion thread.

[AngelPhoenix]

Website numbers are a crap shoot, they are consistency inaccurate.

dig in a little further and look for actual stickers. In this case you’ll find:

222RB GVWR is 7,520 lbs
253RB GVWR is 7,550 lbs

View attachment 105947
View attachment 105950

That's great info, thank you! Do you just type in "<<name of camper>> loading info sticker" and browse images?

Still strange to me that the second camper is 3 feet longer and effectively not any heavier, but does have a higher (dry) hitch weight. I guess I am just not grasping the math/physics of how these numbers are arrived at.

In any case, 30 feet seems awfully long for a 1500, regardless of payload. Even 27 feet seems like it's pushing it. Maybe if I had been travel trailering for 10 years but as a total noob I'm afraid too go to big too quick, even if it's within the capabilities of the truck, because it might not be in my capabilities to make proper adjustments should I run into an issue.

Kind of like hydroplaning. I've seen people get into accidents right in front of or next to me because they tried to over-adjust in the middle of the slide whereas I know the best thing to do is touch the wheel as little as possible.

Anyway, that's enough of my rant lol. Just want to find the right balance of safety and nice trailer

 

[IvoryHemi]

That's great info, thank you! Do you just type in "<<name of camper>> loading info sticker" and browse images?

Still strange to me that the second camper is 3 feet longer and effectively not any heavier, but does have a higher (dry) hitch weight. I guess I am just not grasping the math/physics of how these numbers are arrived at.

In any case, 30 feet seems awfully long for a 1500, regardless of payload. Even 27 feet seems like it's pushing it. Maybe if I had been travel trailering for 10 years but as a total noob I'm afraid too go to big too quick, even if it's within the capabilities of the truck, because it might not be in my capabilities to make proper adjustments should I run into an issue.

Kind of like hydroplaning. I've seen people get into accidents right in front of or next to me because they tried to over-adjust in the middle of the slide whereas I know the best thing to do is touch the wheel as little as possible.

Anyway, that's enough of my rant lol. Just want to find the right balance of safety and nice trailer

Dry weight of 5,643 lbs vs 5,279 lbs is 6.8% heavier while length of 335” vs 359” is 7.1%

So the extra weight/length seems proportional to me

To find stickers I use RVT and search listings with pictures and just scroll to find a dealer who took one of the weight info.

My last TT was 5,200 lbs dry (7,000 lbs GVWR) and 31”2” long. It towed really, really easy.

At 7,500 lbs GVWR and 27’-30’ you are in the sweet spot. I think either one is fine.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

Dry weight of 5,643 lbs vs 5,279 lbs is 6.8% heavier while length of 335” vs 359” is 7.1%

So the extra weight/length seems proportional to me

To find stickers I use RVT and search listings with pictures and just scroll to find a dealer who took one of the weight info.

My last TT was 5,200 lbs dry (7,000 lbs GVWR) and 31”2” long. It towed really, really easy.

At 7,500 lbs GVWR and 27’-30’ you are in the sweet spot. I think either one is fine.

Okay, see I seem to be getting confused between "dry weight", which from what I understand is everything that comes with the trailer from the factory, but minus anything*you* might put in it (food, beverages, luggage, fishing/hiking gear, etc.), and the GVWR. I think I was too focused on the GVWR, and not enough on the dry weight which, if I don't put very much stuff in the trailer (I'm squarely in the weekend warrior camp currently), shouldn't go up all that much.

My last concern then would be making sure I'm not over payload with the loaded hitch weight.

Anyway, that does make me feel better. Good to talk with someone who has experience with trailering in general, even better with someone who has experience with a trailer right around the size I am looking at, and a very similar tow vehicle. Thank you very much!

 

[nc_beagle]

Gonna jump in here.

I have a 2022 Limited on order (see my sig) and it looks like I will be waiting quite a bit longer than I thought for my exact payload number. From all the research I've done (including some very helpful sleuthing from this forum), I should be right around 1200lbs, so we'll go with that as my "exact" number for now.

Mine and my wife's number one trailer choice has been narrowed down to this:

Sunset Trail Super Lite Travel Trailers - SS222RB Floorplan | Crossroads RV

Review the Sunset Trail Super Lite SS222RB floorplan.

www.crossroadsrv.com

It looks pretty comfortably doable to me but I'm confused about a few things.

I know the hitch weight listed is dry so I've been adding 200lbs as a top-end estimate for a loaded tongue (filled propane tank(s) and battery, and a WDH). Is there another, better and more precise way to calculate this?

Also, there is a slightly larger version of this trailer with a higher dry hitch weight but lower GVWR. How does that work? I am probably not going to go with that one as it's 30 feet long and I'm afraid that will give me a bit too much wag potential.

I have seen trailers with considerably higher dry hitch weights than this one (say 560-640lbs), which threaten to (or would) put me over payload with my family in the truck, but have a dry weight and GVWR anywhere from 1,000 to 1,800lbs lower, suggesting it's a much easier tow. How is it that some trailers have a hitch weight that's doable for me, but a GVWR that, if the cargo capacity of the trailer was maxed out (or close to it), would make it exceed the GVWR of my truck, which makes me nervous that it's too big?

Just trying to get some clarification here. It's all a bit overwhelming. Thanks!

My Limited's payload is 1317#. The only heavy option I have is the ORG. If you got the RamBox, your 1200# estimate is probably about right. The sunroof and MFT are the next heaviest options that I didn't get.

I've noticed that, all else equal, the campers that have a murphy bed at the hitch are typically heavier than those with a regular bed there.

I imagine that the high cargo capacity of the trailer you're looking at is dictated by the axles they are using? Our trailer has a GVWR of 6200#, but all three tanks are 45 gallon. We could about max out if all the tanks were full!

 

[IvoryHemi]

My Limited's payload is 1317#. The only heavy option I have is the ORG. If you got the RamBox, your 1200# estimate is probably about right. The sunroof and MFT are the next heaviest options that I didn't get.

I've noticed that, all else equal, the campers that have a murphy bed at the hitch are typically heavier than those with a regular bed there.

I imagine that the high cargo capacity of the trailer you're looking at is dictated by the axles they are using? Our trailer has a GVWR of 6200#, but all three tanks are 45 gallon. We could about max out if all the tanks were full!

I think cargo capacity on TT’s are another breed lol.

The ones he is looking at have the small 2 3/8” (3,500 lbs) axles.

My old TT had those same axles with a 1,800 lb cargo weight and combined GAWR = GVWR

My new TT has larger 3” (5,200 lb) axles but only 1,400 lbs cargo weight. With a 8,200 lbs GVWR that is well below the combined 10,400 lbs GAWR.

so the frame must come into play

 

[AngelPhoenix]

My Limited's payload is 1317#. The only heavy option I have is the ORG. If you got the RamBox, your 1200# estimate is probably about right. The sunroof and MFT are the next heaviest options that I didn't get.

I've noticed that, all else equal, the campers that have a murphy bed at the hitch are typically heavier than those with a regular bed there.

I imagine that the high cargo capacity of the trailer you're looking at is dictated by the axles they are using? Our trailer has a GVWR of 6200#, but all three tanks are 45 gallon. We could about max out if all the tanks were full!

Did get the sunroof, but not the Boxes or the MFT.

I readily admit that I did not anticipate having such a low payload. I'm such a noob, it never even occurred to me that the payload number Ram gives you is before options like that, and I had no idea just how much those options weigh.

It is what it is at this point. I still need it for my daily driver so going straight to a 2500/3500 just isn't practical for me right now. I would still like to get a decent-sized trailer but of course be safe about it.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

Okay, so I just learned that if you get new tires, and those tires are heavier than your previous ones, that this increases your curb weight, and then reduces your payload by the same amount, is that correct?

 

[IvoryHemi]

Okay, so I just learned that if you get new tires, and those tires are heavier than your previous ones, that this increases your curb weight, and then reduces your payload by the same amount, is that correct?

technically yes.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

technically yes.

SO. MANY. FACTORS.

I was aiming for a set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S to replace the crappy Goodyears that come with the truck, but it seems like those are a heavier-than-average tire.

 

[IvoryHemi]

SO. MANY. FACTORS.

I was aiming for a set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S to replace the crappy Goodyears that come with the truck, but it seems like those are a heavier-than-average tire.

If you’re sticking with a factory tire size I wouldn’t worry.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

If you’re sticking with a factory tire size I wouldn’t worry.

I'm sure you're right, I just keep continually running into new info that I didn't factor into my truck buying decision and it annoys me that I didn't know more about all this beforehand. I would think tires that have a higher load rating, and/or are just tougher/stronger in general would actually increase your payload ever so slightly.

 

[IvoryHemi]

I'm sure you're right, I just keep continually running into new info that I didn't factor into my truck buying decision and it annoys me that I didn't know more about all this beforehand. I would think tires that have a higher load rating, and/or are just tougher/stronger in general would actually increase your payload ever so slightly.

stock tires @ max psi already have a higher load rating than GAWR.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

stock tires @ max psi already have a higher load rating than GAWR.

Should change your title from "Ram Guru" to "Ram Tow Guru"

 

[silver billet]

Okay, so I just learned that if you get new tires, and those tires are heavier than your previous ones, that this increases your curb weight, and then reduces your payload by the same amount, is that correct?

Don't worry about the extra weight from a payload perspective, all the weight of a tire is directly on the road itself, it doesn't increase any weight in the hitch/bed/suspension/ball joints/bearings etc.

 

[Dadeoo]

Potentially OT, only because it doesn't involve a Ram:

When my wife and I were looking for a TT, we specifically looked for one within the towing capacity of our Ridgeline (~5,000 pounds, no cargo). We went to one dealer and were looking at a couple single-axle trailers that were nice. The sales rep suggested we look at double-axle trailers. I declined, saying that the Ridgeline's towing capacity wasn't that large. He looked at me straight-faced and said the towing capacity is set by the OEMs to keep themselves out of trouble and that I could tow a 10K pound TT with the Ridgeline.

I looked at my wife and told her we were leaving. I've told all my friends to stay far away from that dealer.

Typical

 

[Sascwatch]

not a ram, but this fellow was pulling a bit more than he could handle through northern Ontario last week. He attempted to pass a semi and lost control shutting down the trans Canada highway for a few hours.

 

[Johnny_H]

not a ram, but this fellow was pulling a bit more than he could handle through northern Ontario last week. He attempted to pass a semi and lost control shutting down the trans Canada highway for a few hours.

Ford owner prob getting road head from his sister.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Redfour5]

How many of you calculate your fuel load in reducing payload? Anyone? Well, you do NOT have to if you do. The payload is figured "including all fluids." So, for some, particularly those with lower payloads, this is important. AND, don't forget a dry hitch weight does NOT include your propane tanks or batteries OR your weight distribution hitch.

These two "issues" are the ones I see as the most confusing for NEWER people to towing. So, pick up a couple hundred lbs by not worrying about your fuel load and lose it by accurately figuring your tongue weight... Two group 24 batteries and two full 30 lb propane tanks are right at 200 lbs (195 to be exact.) A gallon of gas is right at 8 lbs so do the math based upon gas tank size if you want to get specific. If you have the 23 gallon tank, AND TOW, you will be stopping about every hour just so you know. The 26 gallon isn't much better. A 33 gallon will get you around 30 to 45 minutes more between stops for fuel. Based upon my experience having had both, the difference between a 3.21 and 3.92 rear end on fuel WHILE TOWING is neglible. The 3.92 is "better" when towing, but the 3.21 is just fine as long as you are not maxing out your weight, but if you are doing that, then you are likely OVER payload. I had a 2013 Ram 1500 with the 3.92 and 5.7 hemi and the 3.55 rear end and personally think that is the best mix imho. I wish the 3.55 was an option for the 5.7. I shoot for about 80 to 85% of my total towing weight for a trailer and am fine towing at max payload. This is simply my opinion from 16 years towing with various size rigs behind me and three different trucks and an SUV.

This website (fixed quite awhile ago) will tell you your truck's payload by VIN number. https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html Click on "Look up my vehicle" and there it is... If you want, you can double check by doing the math on your sticker on your truck. IGNORE the tables, charts and graphs.

AND remember, salesmen seldom know squat about towing and concentrate on what the literature says and it generally says you can tow the eiffel tower, no problem... NEVER believe a salesman. Get the VIN and look THE SPECIFIC truck up.

Edit: OH and read this thread all the way through.

 

[Redfour5]

not a ram, but this fellow was pulling a bit more than he could handle through northern Ontario last week. He attempted to pass a semi and lost control shutting down the trans Canada highway for a few hours.

If your knuckles are white, you shoud not be doing it. If you shouldn't be towing it and your knuckles are NOT white, well, ignorance is no excuse.

 

[GrinchKing05]

Not to hijack this post but thought I’d post my question here first. I have a 2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn 4WD CrewCab with the V6 engine (not diesel), 3.21 axle ratio. I knew ahead of time it couldn’t tow much and I use it mostly for driving to/from work and family trips. I’ll have to look at the door sticker as mentioned above, having said that, what size/weight of trailer could I safely tow? I see on a Ram towing website it says 6370lbs. Does that mean before adding anything onto it? Do I also need to include passengers in the truck when calculating trailer weight? Finally, what weight/length of trailer would you guys recommend for this engine/setup.

Thanks,


Info from Towing website
GVWR: 6900
Payload: 1770
Base weight: 5100
GCWR: 11900
Max Trailer: 6370