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How to: Add Adaptive Cruise Control, Lane assist, FCW & Auto Hi-beam to Ram 1500

vincentw56

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So, you are saying to use the rubber caps from the brake ends to plug the into the front brake lines once you disconnect them from the HCU? Helps to not introduce air/contamination into them and not to lose much brake fluid if so that makes a lot of sense if that’s what you are saying.
They're usually called vacuum caps. You can get them at any hardware store or automotive store. There will still be air in the lines that's what the bleeding is for. But it just keeps them from dripping all over the place.
 

TheLegend

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They're usually called vacuum caps. You can get them at any hardware store or automotive store. There will still be air in the lines that's what the bleeding is for. But it just keeps them from dripping all over the place.
That’s great I just looked it up my AutoZone down the road has them I’ll pick some up tonight! See, this is what I’m talking about love this forum you guys/gals are the best seriously
thank you everyone for all the help y’all have given me after this I’m on to Comma and I am REALLY excited about that one!! 😎
 

TheLegend

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If someone could help it be tremendous… When I run Longitudinal Sensor Calibration it fails which ultimately does not allow me to run Clearing Rolls Information?
 

TheLegend

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Well it worked even though it failed so I’m running ABS Bleed Brake now
 

TheLegend

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Alright I’ve done everything but keep getting this error code. When I go to run Longitudinal Sensor Calibration and Clearing Rolls Information it says the following (Failed. Service Not Supporter In Active Diagnostic Session). Can anyone help me with this? Or give some advice.
 

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TheLegend

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Alright I’ve done everything but keep getting this error code. When I go to run Longitudinal Sensor Calibration and Clearing Rolls Information it says the following (Failed. Service Not Supporter In Active Diagnostic Session). Can anyone help me with this? Or give some advice.
Well not sure how but it got put into Plant Mode so I had to Disable both ESC & EPB In Plant Mode to be able to clear the last code for me ACC is now working like a champ thank y’all for everything I appreciate all y’all have done! Comma here I come!
 

ebeker

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DASM price is currently $1895 + tax at mopar, damn it was way cheaper 6 months ago , has anyone tried doing this project with used DASM ?
 

ebeker

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I have front and back parking assist along with auto high beam. I think i will need the damn DASM to start the project.
 

ebeker

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I have confirmed that you can use an ABS Module and HCU from another vehicle. I was able to activate ACC on a 2021 Bighorn using a donor ABS/HCU assembly (both parts) from a 2019 Limited with the Advanced Safety Group which includes Adaptive Cruise Control w/Stop and Go. I recommend getting the VIN from the donor vehicle and verifying that it does in fact have Adaptive Cruise Control w/Stop and Go using the FCA window sticker lookup tool. Of the two I was able to find for sale on a popular website, one was listed with the wrong part number and was not the correct part. Fortunately, I caught it before I bought and installed it.

I used AlfaOBD 2.3.6.0 on Windows with an OBDLink EX USB interface an inexpensive 12+8 FCA SGW module bypass cable. I assume other combinations will work but can't confirm.

The additional step required to get past the VIN mismatch fault is to run “Reset VIN values” using AlfaOBD. It has been previously been confirmed to work with older 1500 Rams and HD Rams, and I can confirm that it also works with a 2021 Ram 1500 DT.

Steps:

  • Connect to function “ABS” and ECU “ABS Bosch/Continental/Teves/TRW PowerNet: DT MY2019+ PowerNet” using AlfaOBD.
  • Read the system ID and System Status under Status/Faults and save the log for future reference if needed (not required, but a good idea).
  • Disconnect and turn of ignition.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Remove old ABS/HCU assembly and install the donor assembly. Be prepared to deal with about 1 quart of spilled brake fluid, most of which will come out of line on the back of the HCU closest the right fender.
  • Install donor ABS/HCU assembly.
  • Perform a base brake system bleed (using any of the old school methods).
  • Connect battery.
  • Connect to Function “ABS” and ECU “ABS Bosch/Continental/Teves/TRW PowerNet: DT MY2019+ PowerNet” using AlfaOBD
  • Read System ID and System Status and save the log again.
  • Run “Reset VIN Values” under Active Diagnostic. When I ran this is never returned a process complete status but it worked. I waited about five minutes.
  • Power off ignition and wait a couple minutes for the power off delay to expire.
  • Connect to Function “ABS” and ECU “ABS Bosch/Continental/Teves/TRW PowerNet: DT MY2019+ PowerNet” using AlfaOBD
  • Read System ID again. Verify that the value for VIN current all question marks. If not, repeat. The ABS ECU initialization will not work until the VIN current value is properly cleared.
  • Perform the ABS module bleed procedure using AlfaOBD (AlfaOBD will guide you).
  • I'm pretty sure the factory service manual says to run a base system bleed on the brakes again after the ABS bleed, but I can't confirm. Other than a little more time, it can't hurt.
  • Run static ECU initialization
  • Run Longitudinal acceleration sensor calibration. I had to disconnect, go to advanced mode, uncheck verify ECU, and connect to RAM 1500/2500/3500/4500/5500: MY2013+ PowerNet to get this to work. The option under DT MY2019+ of “Longitudinal and Lateral sensor calibration fails”. I only used the 2013+ option for this one step.
  • Clear codes and cycle ignition
  • Run clearing Rolls Information
  • Run Inlet Valve Calibration
  • Run Pilot Valve Calibration
  • Run Sensor Cluster Calibration
  • Run Brake Pedal Calibration
When this was all done, I only had one remaining error which was the EPB error. This cleared when I engaged and released the parking brake and cycled the ignition one time.

Note that the ABS module will retain the VIN from the original vehicle under the VIN original value. Only the VIN current value needs to match the current vehicle.

Much thanks to all those that did the hard work to figure this stuff out!

One step closer to installing a Comma 3!
what about using DASM from a donor vehicle , is that possible also what do you think ?
 

MerzkeM

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Thanks to everyone who’s contributed to this! Does anyone make and sell the wiring harness for this upgrade?
 
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My center stack has the Lane Assist and Park Assist button. Park assist button does not work and it doesn't show errors. So you could get one with it unless you don't want a non-functional button.

Does your center gauge display show the menu for lane sense? You should also be able to activate auto hi-beams.
I received my parts to do this addition but when I switched my center stack to the one with the buttons I need the plug in the back of the screen has the notch in a different spot not allowing me to plug in my wires. Do I need to add any wires and change the plug or just order a the plug and swap the wires over. Or just grind off the locating tab and plug it in?
 

vincentw56

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I received my parts to do this addition but when I switched my center stack to the one with the buttons I need the plug in the back of the screen has the notch in a different spot not allowing me to plug in my wires. Do I need to add any wires and change the plug or just order a the plug and swap the wires over. Or just grind off the locating tab and plug it in?
Pics would help. Also, there are a lot of wires that plug into the back. Can you be more specific?
 
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Pics would help. Also, there are a lot of wires that plug into the back. Can you be more specific?
This is my original screen and it’s a grey plug with the locator to the one side. The new one is black with the locator in the middle. I ground off the locator and plugged it in and it comes on but it said screen locked start engine and now the screen does not respond to my touch. Not sure if I have a dud or if something need to be reset/programmed.
 

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mike_ct

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has anyone tried to NOT change the center stack and just omit the ability to enable factory LKAS ?
 

TheLegend

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has anyone tried to NOT change the center stack and just omit the ability to enable factory LKAS ?
Yes and from what I understand you cannot unless you have the actually physical button to enable it.
 

vincentw56

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This is my original screen and it’s a grey plug with the locator to the one side. The new one is black with the locator in the middle. I ground off the locator and plugged it in and it comes on but it said screen locked start engine and now the screen does not respond to my touch. Not sure if I have a dud or if something need to be reset/programmed.
Did you buy it new or used? It shouldn't matter. And you had the 12" screen before?
 

Jimmy07

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This is my original screen and it’s a grey plug with the locator to the one side. The new one is black with the locator in the middle. I ground off the locator and plugged it in and it comes on but it said screen locked start engine and now the screen does not respond to my touch. Not sure if I have a dud or if something need to be reset/programmed.
The keyway ridge is in a different spot on your dash connector that plugs into the screen. Everything else is the same, so just shave it off.
A71CF0FD-39A0-45C0-A451-37780408C5B6.jpeg
 
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The keyway ridge is in a different spot on your dash connector that plugs into the screen. Everything else is the same, so just shave it off.
View attachment 155313
That’s what I did yes, it powers up and even my CarPlay connects but nothing responds to touch. Not sure if I have to program something or if it should be plug and play. It said something at the beginning about being locked and to start the vehicle and I did that but no luck. Tried a reset by holding the power button till it reset but didn’t help.
 

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