Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

[Unknown1007]

Anyone have pictures on 2019 Ram 1500 where they ground the wired?

 

[firecadet613]

Anyone have pictures on 2019 Ram 1500 where they ground the wired?

Search this thread, it's back in one of the first posts.

 

[Monteman1971]

Unknown1007, Behind the fuse box is a metal brace, I drilled a hole and used a self taping screw to make a ground.

Thanks Firecadet for this thread.....it really helped me a lot with giving the fuse I could use to set up my dash cam. On my 17 Ram I hard wired into the power port that was in the console which was easy to get at but on the 19 with only one power port at the top of the dash I wasn't looking forward to pulling that panel off. This info made the install simple!

Steve

 

[Neurobit]

Search this thread, it's back in one of the first posts.

Here you go.
I used this fastener on driver’s side ( near door right above where the plastic trim ends). Worked like a charm.

 

[beekay99]

Needed some help, wasn't intending to resurrect a stale thread, and I did read this whole thing...more an electrical putz question. Looking for the easy win, hardwire kit won't turn camera on. I suspect it is my ground placement, I tried to move it around, jiggle it, etc., still not turning on. I used the location neurobit used. Any quick ways to figure out there is power and it is the ground causing an issue? Where should I put the multimeter and what to check if all my wires are working fine and supplying power (do I also need to check power at the power tip to see if there are cable issues). I am using the GPS mount to power through, and have to because I have already predrilled measured holes in the rear view mirror trim for a cleaner look and want to continue using the hole that was centered above the GPS mount usb port location.

And since I'm on this thread, the A129 dual camera is the by far the best camera I have had. My negatives are really minor. USB cable is fat to the rear camera, while I did get everything tucked nicely, I was afraid of the bends and curves compromising the cable. They need a more lower profile connector to the rear camera. It is "stiff" for about an inch and half meaning that to give enough bend and play to have the cable come from the headliner, around the plastic trim, and back to the window, you have to have either a 90 bend on the side to give more cable play, move the camera lower (but filling more of your picture with useless truck bed) or use a custom fab mount that puts the camera farther from the window...or, drill a hole in the plastic trim above the window to route straight down to the camera.

But, at less than $200 on Amazon for the entire kit which includes rear view cam, 2 polarizing filters, hardwire kit, and GPS mount, that could not be beat. I'm sure this will be even cheaper on Black Friday as all dash cams tend to be, but I couldn't wait. My next purchase for this will be a San Disk High Endurance card (newer high temp rated edition), 128 GB, again that price can't be beat.

 

[Neurobit]

Needed some help, wasn't intending to resurrect a stale thread, and I did read this whole thing...more an electrical putz question. Looking for the easy win, hardwire kit won't turn camera on. I suspect it is my ground placement, I tried to move it around, jiggle it, etc., still not turning on. I used the location neurobit used. Any quick ways to figure out there is power and it is the ground causing an issue? Where should I put the multimeter and what to check if all my wires are working fine and supplying power (do I also need to check power at the power tip to see if there are cable issues). I am using the GPS mount to power through, and have to because I have already predrilled measured holes in the rear view mirror trim for a cleaner look and want to continue using the hole that was centered above the GPS mount usb port location.

And since I'm on this thread, the A129 dual camera is the by far the best camera I have had. My negatives are really minor. USB cable is fat to the rear camera, while I did get everything tucked nicely, I was afraid of the bends and curves compromising the cable. They need a more lower profile connector to the rear camera. It is "stiff" for about an inch and half meaning that to give enough bend and play to have the cable come from the headliner, around the plastic trim, and back to the window, you have to have either a 90 bend on the side to give more cable play, move the camera lower (but filling more of your picture with useless truck bed) or use a custom fab mount that puts the camera farther from the window...or, drill a hole in the plastic trim above the window to route straight down to the camera.

But, at less than $200 on Amazon for the entire kit which includes rear view cam, 2 polarizing filters, hardwire kit, and GPS mount, that could not be beat. I'm sure this will be even cheaper on Black Friday as all dash cams tend to be, but I couldn't wait. My next purchase for this will be a San Disk High Endurance card (newer high temp rated edition), 128 GB, again that price can't be beat.

Try plugging the hardwire straight into the camera. The GPS mount (which has it's own usb connector) could be bad.

 

[beekay99]

Try plugging the hardwire straight into the camera. The GPS mount (which has it's own usb connector) could be bad.

Try plugging the hardwire straight into the camera. The GPS mount (which has it's own usb connector) could be bad.

Well I’m a dufus. Turns out the tap kit requires me to put in two fuses to complete the circuit. So I put in the existing 10a fuse and used the supplied 5a fuse in the tap. Works in parking mode and normal mode now!

The ground used by Neurobit works perfectly!

 

[Neurobit]

Well I’m a dufus. Turns out the tap kit requires me to put in two fuses to complete the circuit. So I put in the existing 10a fuse and used the supplied 5a fuse in the tap. Works in parking mode and normal mode now!

The ground used by Neurobit works perfectly!

Sweet. Glad to hear.

 

[Ftstars]

I had this setup on my F150 and just finished the install on my RAM. The dash cam is powered up when the truck is on and off when it's off. I won't go into the reviews of this dash cam or setup, but I've had it for two years and no complaints. Great video quality as well.

Dash cam - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQSXWUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard wire kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at the owners manual, there is a fuse box located below the steering column, fuse F66 is unused, 10a and labelled as an accessory fuse. Perfect for what I'm trying to do.

The dash panel below the steering column is held on by two bolts at the bottom and a bunch of clips, I used a non marring trim removal tool to help loosen those up. Once it's off, you'll have open access to the fuse block.

With my F150, a add-a-fuse setup would barely fit, so I just wrapped the hot wire around a fuse and plugged it back in. Since the fuse is unused in the RAM, that sounded good as well.

The trim panel to the left of the instrument panel pops off with trim removal tools as well (a few clips holding it on). Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen up one of the screws enough to get the ground wire in place and mounted. A few zip ties to keep the wiring in place and from bouncing around as well.

On my F150 I pulled off the A pillar trip piece to route the wiring up and into the front of the headliner, over to where I mounted the dash cam by the mirror. In the RAM, I was able to sneak it behind the A pillar trim without removing it.

Hope this helps!

***As a quick update - I now run a Viofo A129 dual dash cam, with the rear cam mounted on the passenger side of the sliding rear window (cable tucked up inside the headliner on the passenger side. Fuses - Constant 12V is F33, switched 12V is F66. No issues and really like the dual cam setup.***

Thank you. Great to know. Hooking up an escort radar passport. Going to hard wire it. Thanks. I love this truck!

 

[Billy James]

I did a Hardwire install of the Viofo A129 Duo this weekend and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. The only problems that I had was that the rear camera cable is so thick that it is difficult to tuck behind the headliner; and I had to make a few adjustments to get enough length for the rear camera cable (ran along passenger side).
I spent an hour walking around Home Depot looking for a solution to mount my rear camera. I wanted a nice clean install in the center of the rear window; but needed to work around the sliding rear window. I saw that someone here manufactured a mount from aluminum; but I wanted something that was easy, light. and didn't have to be painted. So after walking the entire Home Depot twice trying to find something to "MacGyver" the rear cam install; I came across what I thought would be a good solution. And IT WAS FREE! I picked up a 4"x4" vinyl floor sample that had a pattern similar to the woodgrain trim on my Laramie (the sample is black on the back). I cut it down to 2" x 3". I heated the cutout and put a bend in it at 3/4". After it cooled, I attached the camera to one end and used double sided adhesive to attach the manufactured mount to the trim above the rear window. It worked perfectly. The sample is pretty thick, so it is plenty stable.
The Viofo camera seems to be pretty good. The Video is incredible and the camera itself is very easy to setup and use. Here are the pictures of my rear camera install:

 

[geotex1]

To make custom plastic brackets, you need look no further than a sheet of Kydex. Available in colors and in OEM like textures, and various thicknesses. Formed using heat.

 

[Zeeya]

I had this setup on my F150 and just finished the install on my RAM. The dash cam is powered up when the truck is on and off when it's off. I won't go into the reviews of this dash cam or setup, but I've had it for two years and no complaints. Great video quality as well.

Dash cam - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQSXWUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard wire kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at the owners manual, there is a fuse box located below the steering column, fuse F66 is unused, 10a and labelled as an accessory fuse. Perfect for what I'm trying to do.

The dash panel below the steering column is held on by two bolts at the bottom and a bunch of clips, I used a non marring trim removal tool to help loosen those up. Once it's off, you'll have open access to the fuse block.

With my F150, a add-a-fuse setup would barely fit, so I just wrapped the hot wire around a fuse and plugged it back in. Since the fuse is unused in the RAM, that sounded good as well.

The trim panel to the left of the instrument panel pops off with trim removal tools as well (a few clips holding it on). Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen up one of the screws enough to get the ground wire in place and mounted. A few zip ties to keep the wiring in place and from bouncing around as well.

On my F150 I pulled off the A pillar trip piece to route the wiring up and into the front of the headliner, over to where I mounted the dash cam by the mirror. In the RAM, I was able to sneak it behind the A pillar trim without removing it.

Hope this helps!

***As a quick update - I now run a Viofo A129 dual dash cam, with the rear cam mounted on the passenger side of the sliding rear window (cable tucked up inside the headliner on the passenger side. Fuses - Constant 12V is F33, switched 12V is F66. No issues and really like the dual cam setup.***

I had this setup on my F150 and just finished the install on my RAM. The dash cam is powered up when the truck is on and off when it's off. I won't go into the reviews of this dash cam or setup, but I've had it for two years and no complaints. Great video quality as well.

Dash cam - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQSXWUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hard wire kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at the owners manual, there is a fuse box located below the steering column, fuse F66 is unused, 10a and labelled as an accessory fuse. Perfect for what I'm trying to do.

The dash panel below the steering column is held on by two bolts at the bottom and a bunch of clips, I used a non marring trim removal tool to help loosen those up. Once it's off, you'll have open access to the fuse block.

With my F150, a add-a-fuse setup would barely fit, so I just wrapped the hot wire around a fuse and plugged it back in. Since the fuse is unused in the RAM, that sounded good as well.

The trim panel to the left of the instrument panel pops off with trim removal tools as well (a few clips holding it on). Use a phillips screwdriver to loosen up one of the screws enough to get the ground wire in place and mounted. A few zip ties to keep the wiring in place and from bouncing around as well.

On my F150 I pulled off the A pillar trip piece to route the wiring up and into the front of the headliner, over to where I mounted the dash cam by the mirror. In the RAM, I was able to sneak it behind the A pillar trim without removing it.

Hope this helps!

***As a quick update - I now run a Viofo A129 dual dash cam, with the rear cam mounted on the passenger side of the sliding rear window (cable tucked up inside the headliner on the passenger side. Fuses - Constant 12V is F33, switched 12V is F66. No issues and really like the dual cam setup.***

Thanks for posting. Been wanting to hard wire valentine 1. Do you thank the 10 amp fuse can handle dash camera and valentine 1 radar detector?

 

[Patsy1099]

Thanks for posting. Been wanting to hard wire valentine 1. Do you thank the 10 amp fuse can handle dash camera and valentine 1 radar detector?

That's not a problem

 

[KitRae]

Installed the 750 blackvue just now, took me no more then an hour.
Thank you to everyone that said to use Fuse 33 and 66. Worked like a charm.

Word of advice, i used one of the screws on the left side of the dash where the panel comes off. My hardwire wouldnt turn on and i thought it was my wiring. Turned out the ground for some odd reason wasnt actually grounding. I went ahead and loosened the screw and the wiring kit came to life but flicked back off.
Comepletely unscrewed it, readjusted the ground and tightened it back up to the point where i got a steady green light on the kit. Mine try somewhere else to ground if it continues to give me problems.

Also, how did you guys hide all the extra wiring without it coming out from the bottom

Which fuse did you need to go with? Or any for that matter. Just bought my '19 Rebel and lost some wiring from my trade in. Looking at getting something like this, but not sure which fuse to order.

Power Magic Pro Fuse Tap - BlackVue Dash Cameras

Fuse Tap for Power Magic Pro with 3 options.

www.blackvue.com

 

[Billy James]

Which fuse did you need to go with? Or any for that matter. Just bought my '19 Rebel and lost some wiring from my trade in. Looking at getting something like this, but not sure which fuse to order.

Power Magic Pro Fuse Tap - BlackVue Dash Cameras

Fuse Tap for Power Magic Pro with 3 options.

www.blackvue.com

You need a Micro2 adapter. I used a 5 AMP fuse. Here is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR71LPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Moparmad74]

Anyone with an etorque option found out if the 48v battery keeps the 12v batter charged thus allowing the hardwired dashcams to work longer without killing the battery? I have not been able to lookup any solid answers, just speculation. My guess is that it does not keep it charged without the engine running but maybe if we are lucky simply having the ignition on triggers the connection between the 48v and 12v battery’s giving us the power to start the motor even with a weak standard bat?

 

[Adrianp89]

Most dash cams have a power saving mode... really shouldn’t ever be an issue unless you go several weeks. In which case you should be using a tender anyways.

 

[Moparmad74]

Most dash cams have a power saving mode... really shouldn’t ever be an issue unless you go several weeks. In which case you should be using a tender anyways.

You may have missed my point, I have the cams set to continue to work while parked until the battery is down to 11.8v then it shuts off. Hoping the 48v batter keeps the 12v battery charged letting the cams work for a much longer period of time.

 

[securityguy]

Hoping the 48v batter keeps the 12v battery charged letting the cams work for a much longer period of time.

I don't think it works that way my friend. The main battery is charged off the alternator. Get a Power Magic Pro and set it to 12V and call it a day.

 

[Moparmad74]

I don't think it works that way my friend. The main battery is charged off the alternator. Get a Power Magic Pro and set it to 12V and call it a day.

There is not an alternator in the etorque trucks, the battery is charged from the 48v battery via a converter. The unknown is if it charges while the truck is not running (if the conveyer is still letting power through to the 12v battery).


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