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Connect subwoofer amp with 8.4 screen and 6 speaker system

Patsy1099 said:
There’s a lot of info to process for sure. Doesn’t help that Ram has made upgrading audio especially tricky. Here’s my two cents. Take things in steps:

- first upgrade your two dash 3.5’s (middle one is blank on the base setup). Popular choices are Infinity, JL Audio, Kicker, JBL. You will need metra harnesses. If you purchase your speakers from Crutchfield they will include for free.
- next you can upgrade you door 6x9’s. The door panels are in tight. First one is a huge pita. After that you will get the hang of it. Check these audio threads for how to remove door panels. If you can’t find the info let us know and we will point you to it. Speakers choices are largely same as above.
This is also where the anc drone is most likely to creep up. You can try matching the phase of the stock speakers by: checking the phase, then making sure metra harness and new speaker match, if not, swap the metra pins/wires.....otherwise you can just choose to disconnect/bypass the anc completely (see below). Keep in mind that if you add an amp you will have to verify/correct phase of certain speakers by swapping polarity....this can be check and done at the amp. No biggie.
- when deciding to bypass/disconnect the anc you have a couple of options. 1.) Follow the instructions for unpinning the anc mics 2.) purchase a $20 anc bypass harness or 3.) purchase a new wiring harness adapter (link below) for $40 that will allow you to easily connect an amp(s)/subs and then you can either unpin/cut the anc wires in this harness (doesn’t matter if you cut since you can simply remove this harness down the road and return to stock).

If you tackle it in pieces like this it won’t seem as overwhelming and things will make more sense as you go along. Ask questions along the way. Keep us posted. Here’s the harness which allows simple connections for your speaker ins/outs so you can connect a sub/amp. It connects right into your anc harness under the driver’s seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wjp3g...C-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html?omnews=2795447
Click to expand...

I have a 2020 with 8.4” and the base speakers (non amplified). Is that APH-CH01 all I need to wire in an aftermarket amplifier using the high level inputs on the amp? The description says it’s for up to 2018 WITH factory amplifier.
 
FFemerson said:
I have a 2020 with 8.4” and the base speakers (non amplified). Is that APH-CH01 all I need to wire in an aftermarket amplifier using the high level inputs on the amp? The description says it’s for up to 2018 WITH factory amplifier.
Click to expand...
I have the same system, and I used the one in the link, just another option, if you'd rather go with low level inputs.
The LOC is already wired in, ready for RCA's, and a remote wire, made it super easy, plug n play.
www.netaudiowf.com

Dodge Ram Subwoofer Install Subwoofer Harness Converter

dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness, dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness
www.netaudiowf.com
20191228_113403.jpg
 
rah6887 said:
I have the same system, and I used the one in the link, just another option, if you'd rather go with low level inputs.
The LOC is already wired in, ready for RCA's, and a remote wire, made it super easy, plug n play.
www.netaudiowf.com

Dodge Ram Subwoofer Install Subwoofer Harness Converter

dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness, dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness
www.netaudiowf.com
View attachment 42989
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I already have a LOC, and that one you linked looks basically like the $40 bypass with an LOC attached, so I’m just gonna get the bypass. Thanks!
 
FFemerson said:
I have a 2020 with 8.4” and the base speakers (non amplified). Is that APH-CH01 all I need to wire in an aftermarket amplifier using the high level inputs on the amp? The description says it’s for up to 2018 WITH factory amplifier.
Click to expand...

yes that harness will work and is all you need as far as wiring. You still a loc/dsp or something that will show a “load” otherwise the head unit won’t pass the signal. Some units will have those resistors built in and others don’t so you have to wire in load resistors.
 
Patsy1099 said:
yes that harness will work and is all you need as far as wiring. You still a loc/dsp or something that will show a “load” otherwise the head unit won’t pass the signal. Some units will have those resistors built in and others don’t so you have to wire in load resistors.
Click to expand...

How do you know if your LOC has them built in? I have the Scosche LOC2SL. Also I’m just adding a mono block for a sub. Keeping stock speakers powered by the radio, if that makes a difference.
 
Last edited:
FFemerson said:
How do you know if your LOC has them built in? I have the Scosche LOC2SL. Also I’m just adding a mono block for a sub. Keeping stock speakers powered by the radio, if that makes a difference.
Click to expand...

you would have to read the specs in the manual or give them a call and ask them if their loc has built-in resistors that presents a load to the head unit. Otherwise you can just try to and if you are getting anything into your amp then just solder some in-line. They are cheap enough and easy enough to do, wiring them into your harness. I think ljcustoms sells a harness with them wired in already. One of the vendors do I think it’s them.
 
Patsy1099 said:
you would have to read the specs in the manual or give them a call and ask them if their loc has built-in resistors that presents a load to the head unit. Otherwise you can just try to and if you are getting anything into your amp then just solder some in-line. They are cheap enough and easy enough to do, wiring them into your harness. I think ljcustoms sells a harness with them wired in already. One of the vendors do I think it’s them.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link showing more info about the resistors? Search is bringing up too many results and I can’t find a clear solution or how to. Thanks again
 
FFemerson said:
Do you have a link showing more info about the resistors? Search is bringing up too many results and I can’t find a clear solution or how to. Thanks again
Click to expand...

a 5W 47ohm should be good for you. You just need one for each of the positive wires going from the wiring harness to your amp so you don’t need a pack of 30 but they are cheap. Again you will only need to have these soldered inline if the loc/dsp does have this built in and show a load but adding them anyway won’t hurt anything.

uxcell 30Pcs 47 Ohm Resistor, 5W 5% Tolerance Metal Oxide Film Resistors, Lead, Flame Proof for DIY Electronic Projects and Experiments: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

uxcell 30Pcs 47 Ohm Resistor, 5W 5% Tolerance Metal Oxide Film Resistors, Lead, Flame Proof for DIY Electronic Projects and Experiments: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
 
Thanks so much for all the info. About 13 years ago I used to run a car audio installation company, and things were never this difficult!
 
FFemerson said:
I have a 2020 with 8.4” and the base speakers (non amplified). Is that APH-CH01 all I need to wire in an aftermarket amplifier using the high level inputs on the amp? The description says it’s for up to 2018 WITH factory amplifier.
Click to expand...

Why not use the AP4-CH41 R.2? I have 2019, 8.4”, non amplified. I recently installed this interface along with a JL 900/5 and three Sundown 8” in a custom enclosure. This interface worked perfectly. ANC gets bypassed and I plugged the amp outputs right into the trucks speakers wires under the driver seat - not a single wire cut or factory harness modified.
 
delosh said:
Why not use the AP4-CH41 R.2? I have 2019, 8.4”, non amplified. I recently installed this interface along with a JL 900/5 and three Sundown 8” in a custom enclosure. This interface worked perfectly. ANC gets bypassed and I plugged the amp outputs right into the trucks speakers wires under the driver seat - not a single wire cut or factory harness modified.
Click to expand...

for no reason other than trying to avoid spending $250, to be honest.
 
FFemerson said:
for no reason other than trying to avoid spending $250, to be honest.
Click to expand...

I get it. Thing is expensive. I chose to use it since these OEM systems are so integrated into everything. I didn’t want to be surprised with any unexpected quirks or maybe have to settle with something not functioning correctly.
 
I have the PAC APH CH01 en route to my house currently. Does it disable the ANC, or do I still need to do that? And if so, I can just cut the mic wires in the PAC unit, correct?
 
rah6887 said:
I have the same system, and I used the one in the link, just another option, if you'd rather go with low level inputs.
The LOC is already wired in, ready for RCA's, and a remote wire, made it super easy, plug n play.
www.netaudiowf.com

Dodge Ram Subwoofer Install Subwoofer Harness Converter

dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness, dodge ram radio t-harness, dodge ram radio harness, dodge ram harness
www.netaudiowf.com
View attachment 42989
Click to expand...
Is this install as simple as plugging this harness into the ANC amp under the seat then running the amp RCA's to it? I haven't installed any car audio since the 80's in a Datsun B210!!! If the installation is just using this harness, do all other features still operate as normal? I use the Android Auto feature regularly and would not want to interfere with it. Thanks
 
dano257 said:
Is this install as simple as plugging this harness into the ANC amp under the seat then running the amp RCA's to it? I haven't installed any car audio since the 80's in a Datsun B210!!! If the installation is just using this harness, do all other features still operate as normal? I use the Android Auto feature regularly and would not want to interfere with it. Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, RCA's & remote wire. Run your power wire and ground your amp, you're done.
And everything still works as it did prior to the install.
The ANC is bypassed, but to be honest, it seems just as quiet in the cabin without it.
 
craulston said:
OK... Found some things out and still need a few more answers.

If you have an amplified system, this looks like a great option.
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41

If you do not, I believe something like the Audio Control LC2i would be the best option to add a subwoofer amp.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/

I found the audio schematics from this thread:
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/5th-gen-stock-stereo-upgrade-options.926/page-2

Question.
Where can I grab the audio signal for the LC2i?
From the ANC under the seat or from a front speaker?

Anyone done this yet?
Click to expand...
Yes you can use the lc2i
 
rah6887 said:
Yes, RCA's & remote wire. Run your power wire and ground your amp, you're done.
And everything still works as it did prior to the install.
The ANC is bypassed, but to be honest, it seems just as quiet in the cabin without it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info!
 
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