Connect subwoofer amp with 8.4 screen and 6 speaker system

[frybel]

Thanks!! I designed and built the box.

Well done man!!

 

[Th8785]

New member here. Been searching, but not finding my concern anywhere else, maybe someone here can help? Just bought a '21 ram with etorque. I love my audio, at levels most would just consider obnoxious that being said ive always ran a high output alternator to support the power demands properly. Has anyone put a large draw system or anything that draws higher amperage in an etorque yet? Worried I may damage the system.

 

[Cue74]

Finally got mine done. Removed ANC module under drivers seat and used ACH4 harness to tap into the input for speakers there with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1. Ran wiring down door sills to back seats for amp, then back under driver seat for output to speakers. Both input and outputs are available there because of ANC.

I decided to go with a 5 channel amp to power all the Kickers I installed in place of factory dash/doors and the JL 10TW3-D8 sub. Sound deadening installed in all of the doors and some in the rear under flooring. Covered back of cab with it too behind back seats while I had those out trying to figure out what to do.

Hell of a project compared to what it used to be. But, I never cut a factory harness. That made things more costly/time consuming. Everything looks and sounds awesome now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was wondering what encloseure this is & does it sit over your all weather floor mats?

 

[RichInMN]

New member here. Been searching, but not finding my concern anywhere else, maybe someone here can help? Just bought a '21 ram with etorque. I love my audio, at levels most would just consider obnoxious that being said ive always ran a high output alternator to support the power demands properly. Has anyone put a large draw system or anything that draws higher amperage in an etorque yet? Worried I may damage the system.

I think your concern is valid, I'd be concerned with overwhelming the eTorque charging system. One of the reasons I didn't want the eTorque, didn't want to put strain (up to 400 amp draw) on a non-traditional electrical system.

 

[Th8785]

I think your concern is valid, I'd be concerned with overwhelming the eTorque charging system. One of the reasons I didn't want the eTorque, didn't want to put strain (up to 400 amp draw) on a non-traditional electrical system.

Right. I habe found an option of switching to a high output generator so theres that option

 

[Hemiguy226]

Apologies if you stated this already but I can’t easily read the thread back because I’m on the road. Have you done any mods/upgrades to the system? Besides swapping speakers that is. Did you change amps/subs?

If your anc is still physically connected then it doesn’t have anything to do with loads/resistors because you are still going through the anc/amp and therefore the head unit will see the load. If you’ve introduced an in-line amp and/or removed the anc then that’s a different story. Otherwise it sounds like something is causing your head unit to stop putting out a signal or your amp to go into protected mode (if you have an alpine/hk). Different things can cause that. A short, overload, bad ground, bad speaker, software glitch. Best way to resolve that is to let the dealer fix it since they will be able to test and isolate faster and easier than you. Plus why go down that rabbit hole.

Dealer fix it lmao

 

[FlawdaBoy]

Maybe this has been covered but there is alot of information to go through. I just picked up a 2019 Ram Rebel with factory 6 speaker. Replacing the factory speakers was no issue. The factory speakers will be powered off of the factory head unit. What I am trying to do now is hookup a mono channel amp and sub. Picked up the ANC-CH01 and spliced into the purple and green wires (on the black plug tail) to run to a converter plugged everything back up but now I'm not getting any sound out of any of my speakers. When I disconnected and plugged the factory plug back into the ANC everything was working perfectly again.

 

[All_Black_Lone_Star]

Maybe this has been covered but there is alot of information to go through. I just picked up a 2019 Ram Rebel with factory 6 speaker. Replacing the factory speakers was no issue. The factory speakers will be powered off of the factory head unit. What I am trying to do now is hookup a mono channel amp and sub. Picked up the ANC-CH01 and spliced into the purple and green wires (on the black plug tail) to run to a converter plugged everything back up but now I'm not getting any sound out of any of my speakers. When I disconnected and plugged the factory plug back into the ANC everything was working perfectly again.

A picture of your hook up would help. You shouldn’t have any issues I completely removed my anc module and used the same anc-ch01 harness on my setup. Maybe an issue with your splice shorting out.

 

[FlawdaBoy]

A picture of your hook up would help. You shouldn’t have any issues I completely removed my anc module and used the same anc-ch01 harness on my setup. Maybe an issue with your splice shorting out.

Very well could be. I'll try and get a pic shortly on a work break. Really appreciate the quick reply.

 

[FlawdaBoy]

A picture of your hook up would help. You shouldn’t have any issues I completely removed my anc module and used the same anc-ch01 harness on my setup. Maybe an issue with your splice shorting out.

Okay here is a pic of the ANC unit and the bypass harness. I just respliced and hooked everything back up but still not getting sound from ANY of my speakers. Can this bypass harness be used just for input (through a converter) to an amp and have the 6 speakers still running from the factory head unit?

 

[All_Black_Lone_Star]

Okay here is a pic of the ANC unit and the bypass harness. I just respliced and hooked everything back up but still not getting sound from ANY of my speakers. Can this bypass harness be used just for input (through a converter) to an amp and have the 6 speakers still running from the factory head unit?View attachment 100468

Yes this harness can be used to just add a line out converter for a subwoofer. Before I added an amp for the door speakers I used this harness to add a line out for a sub. I still use this harness now but it feeds my LC7i line out converter. There is definitely something going on in your splice section or the wire within the harness shorted out somewhere. The best test to do is grab a digital multimeter and check the continuity from one end of the bypass harness to the next. Also if your DMM doesn’t do continuity just put it in the resistance (ohm) setting and make sure you have some resistance from one end of the harness to the next. If it reads error you have an open circuit.

 

[FlawdaBoy]

Yes this harness can be used to just add a line out converter for a subwoofer. Before I added an amp for the door speakers I used this harness to add a line out for a sub. I still use this harness now but it feeds my LC7i line out converter. There is definitely something going on in your splice section or the wire within the harness shorted out somewhere. The best test to do is grab a digital multimeter and check the continuity from one end of the bypass harness to the next. Also if your DMM doesn’t do continuity just put it in the resistance (ohm) setting and make sure you have some resistance from one end of the harness to the next. If it reads error you have an open circuit.

Got it all working and everything sounds great! Really appreciate your help. Not sure what the issue ended up being as I tested continuity, everything tested fine, rehooked everything up and it worked like a charm. Thanks again bro!

 

[Jdawg27]

This may seem like a really ridiculous question but where is the ANC module in a 2020 Ram 1500 Classic SLT? I have the 8.4 inch head with 6 speaker non amplified version. Looking under the driver’s seat, I don’t see a grey module on the floor. I ordered both the APH-CH01 and ANC-CH01 but have no idea where to connect them. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I also have an LOC.

My goal is just to hook up a simple mono sub system up while retaining the factory speakers.

 

[Scram1500]

The 4th gen and classics do not have ANC

 

[Jdawg27]

The 4th gen and classics do not have ANC

Awesome! Thank you so much! I’ve really been killing myself trying to find it.

 

[Fbird]

There’s a lot of info to process for sure. Doesn’t help that Ram has made upgrading audio especially tricky. Here’s my two cents. Take things in steps:

- first upgrade your two dash 3.5’s (middle one is blank on the base setup). Popular choices are Infinity, JL Audio, Kicker, JBL. You will need metra harnesses. If you purchase your speakers from Crutchfield they will include for free.
- next you can upgrade you door 6x9’s. The door panels are in tight. First one is a huge pita. After that you will get the hang of it. Check these audio threads for how to remove door panels. If you can’t find the info let us know and we will point you to it. Speakers choices are largely same as above.
This is also where the anc drone is most likely to creep up. You can try matching the phase of the stock speakers by: checking the phase, then making sure metra harness and new speaker match, if not, swap the metra pins/wires.....otherwise you can just choose to disconnect/bypass the anc completely (see below). Keep in mind that if you add an amp you will have to verify/correct phase of certain speakers by swapping polarity....this can be check and done at the amp. No biggie.
- when deciding to bypass/disconnect the anc you have a couple of options. 1.) Follow the instructions for unpinning the anc mics 2.) purchase a $20 anc bypass harness or 3.) purchase a new wiring harness adapter (link below) for $40 that will allow you to easily connect an amp(s)/subs and then you can either unpin/cut the anc wires in this harness (doesn’t matter if you cut since you can simply remove this harness down the road and return to stock).

If you tackle it in pieces like this it won’t seem as overwhelming and things will make more sense as you go along. Ask questions along the way. Keep us posted. Here’s the harness which allows simple connections for your speaker ins/outs so you can connect a sub/amp. It connects right into your anc harness under the driver’s seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wjp3g...C-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html?omnews=2795447

So...i too am adding stereo stuff to my 21 BH 6 speaker 8.4 head unit system.
MY understanding thus far is..using the AP4-CH41 plugs in to the stereo to give me 4 channel RCA for amp INPUTS.

Then using APH-CH01 to send my AMP output to the ANC plug in (therfore bypassing the ANC) and powering the door speakers.

The sub is a seperate system pretty simple.

 

[Fbird]

new plan...about the same as stated...but different.
at the ANC use the APH-CH01 harness and splice in to the 12v+ and ground wires to provide power and speaker signals to the PAC LPA-E.4 4 channel converter. RCA's to feed amps, converter provides a turn on signal for amps. Amp OUTPUT for door speakers goes back to the SPEAKER plug in at the ANC. (other pigtail included with APH-CH01)

Just so happens my old Kenwood KAC-40 amp has pass thru ability for daisy chaining, this allows my MTX amp to receive low pass filtered rca signals from the Kenwood. Currently I only need the harness and the converter and a 12" speaker because I am a hoarder...i have all the other components from previous adventures.

 

[Fbird]

PROBLEMS: Finally got all my stuff done. The SKAR box worked out great as a starting point! I cut out the top and added a scab plate (3/4" MDF) and with a little work was able to install my PIONEER 12 (6 1/8" mounitng depth) TS-A301d4, I also added a usb port in the box for rear seat charging. The line convertor is TEE'd in at the ANC and set to DC-offset for turn on (speaker output turn on the "AMP TURN ON" wire) every time i open a door or anything it will turn on the AMPS (only for about 20 seconds) so thats WIERD

NOTES: To add a 6 ga power wire you need about 25' depending on your exact route but 25" will cover you with no problems. There is a place for this in the firewall "grommet". If you look UNDER the main harness you will see a "TIT" (engine side) and also a "divit" on the cabin side. If you use an AWL and push STRAIGHT thru form cabin to engine you will find your wire has a very nice seal. Also if you do rca's from the ANC you need about 12' to make it to the rear corner.

 

[RichInMN]

PROBLEMS: Finally got all my stuff done. The SKAR box worked out great as a starting point! I cut out the top and added a scab plate (3/4" MDF) and with a little work was able to install my PIONEER 12 (6 1/8" mounitng depth) TS-A301d4, I also added a usb port in the box for rear seat charging. The line convertor is TEE'd in at the ANC and set to DC-offset for turn on (speaker output turn on the "AMP TURN ON" wire) every time i open a door or anything it will turn on the AMPS (only for about 20 seconds) so thats WIERD

NOTES: To add a 6 ga power wire you need about 25' depending on your exact route but 25" will cover you with no problems. There is a place for this in the firewall "grommet". If you look UNDER the main harness you will see a "TIT" (engine side) and also a "divit" on the cabin side. If you use an AWL and push STRAIGHT thru form cabin to engine you will find your wire has a very nice seal. Also if you do rca's from the ANC you need about 12' to make it to the rear corner.

Most of us have tapped Fuse 66 on the internal fuse box for amp turn-on - it works as you would expect / want it to.

 

[Fbird]

^^^ will have to check that one out...TY