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Anyone ACTUALLY running 5w-30 or even 10w-30? Thoughts? Experience? Any REAL TRUTH to throwing a code running higher weight oil (no conjecture please)

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devildodge

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Note how they recommend 5w-30 in the 2500:

acVWAe1.png
Note: the 5.7l HEMI in the Heavy Duty did not have MDS

Edit: I see you were already discussing this...carry on
 

silver billet

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Note: the 5.7l HEMI in the Heavy Duty did not have MDS

Yes and we've mentioned that several times in a few posts above yours.

So the use of 0w-20 is for fuel efficiency. They recommended 5w-20 in the past for obvious reasons, it's a better/thicker oil with more protection. They did not recommend 5w-30 due to concerns about MDS not working correctly; however, in practice/reality RL 5w-30 is almost a 40 weight and even it does not through any engine codes nor does it prevent MDS from working.

So 5w-30 offers the most protection, its recommended for heavy duty usage (MDS concerns are not justified). Downgrading to 0w-20 is a choice driven by fuel efficiency, not better wear/protection.
 

Mr.Grid

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You sound upset :)

I tow a trailer all the time in the spring/summer/fall months. My hemi sounded normal. When you drove it it sounded just like every other hemi that I test drove, and also my brother's who happens to own a hemi, and a few friends who also own hemis. I'm very familiar with the "normal" hemi sound. When you replace that factory oil with RL, it quiets down. This is a fact, and it's not just something I noticed. Many users have reported this, and some have even video'd the evidence which is clearly noticeable.

I have hit 250 degrees while towing up a small hill in the summer. There are also way too many reports of temps getting past that on much large mountain climbs: 255, 260. If you're still using 0w-20 at those temps, well then you are nuts. No other way to put it. The hemis do not have a large enough oil cooler.

0w-20 is a fuel efficiency oil. 5w-30 is the oil you need when working it. And RL just happens to be the oil which kills the hemi tick and quiets the general valve train noise. Apparently facts are offensive these days, who knew.
I understand the poor oil advice you suggest and would never install RL that has “NO” API, ILSAC, ACEA, OEM or any other recognized industry specifications declared (tested and paid for) on the Red Line Oil label, much less being the wrong grade as indicate on the oil fill cap of my 2022 Hemi.

Those with a factory warranty doing their own oil maintenance would be wise to follow the Factory specifications and document what they are using. Then in the event of a failure that would require proof of what oil was used and mileage intervals, they would have the proper proof to have the repairs made under warranty.

sb, in the event you (or me) need warranty work that requires proof of oil, I already know what I have and what you don’t. You called me Nuts for using the proper oil while towing, and it’s a fact that you would look Stupid for not.

It’s already a Proven Fact that hundreds of thousands of Hemi owners that tow have had NO engine related oil problems towing having had their oil changed at the dealer. Same with those that don’t tow. Don’t believe me, ask the Factory. That IS the Fact.

Your possible Hearing Delusional Disorder has definitely made your opinion worthless based on the Poor advice that you proclaim with nothing but phrases like “There are also way too many reports” and “Many users have reported this”.

You sound provoked that anyone with sound advice would challenge your incompetency of using the correct product.

Btw, I use None API approved oil for 9 months every year. Had 4 cases of it delivered last month.

You’re a real bute… tell me more……..LMAO
 

silver billet

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I understand the poor oil advice you suggest and would never install RL that has “NO” API, ILSAC, ACEA, OEM or any other recognized industry specifications declared (tested and paid for) on the Red Line Oil label, much less being the wrong grade as indicate on the oil fill cap of my 2022 Hemi.

Those with a factory warranty doing their own oil maintenance would be wise to follow the Factory specifications and document what they are using. Then in the event of a failure that would require proof of what oil was used and mileage intervals, they would have the proper proof to have the repairs made under warranty.

sb, in the event you (or me) need warranty work that requires proof of oil, I already know what I have and what you don’t. You called me Nuts for using the proper oil while towing, and it’s a fact that you would look Stupid for not.

It’s already a Proven Fact that hundreds of thousands of Hemi owners that tow have had NO engine related oil problems towing having had their oil changed at the dealer. Same with those that don’t tow. Don’t believe me, ask the Factory. That IS the Fact.

Your possible Hearing Delusional Disorder has definitely made your opinion worthless based on the Poor advice that you proclaim with nothing but phrases like “There are also way too many reports” and “Many users have reported this”.

You sound provoked that anyone with sound advice would challenge your incompetency of using the correct product.

Btw, I use None API approved oil for 9 months every year. Had 4 cases of it delivered last month.

You’re a real bute… tell me more……..LMAO

Yes dear. :rolleyes:
 

ekaz

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All this thread needs is that youtube video talking about how bad the oiling is on the hemi and they're all going to blow up. @silver billet since you have all the useless oil info, can you find and post the video to add to your brute status? LOL
 

silver billet

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All this thread needs is that youtube video talking about how bad the oiling is on the hemi and they're all going to blow up. @silver billet since you have all the useless oil info, can you find and post the video to add to your brute status? LOL

Hey, it was "bute", not "brute". ;)

If you're referring to the video from Uncle Tony, then no I'd rather not post it nor drive up hits to that nonsense.
 

ekaz

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Hey, it was "bute", not "brute". ;)

If you're referring to the video from Uncle Tony, then no I'd rather not post it nor drive up hits to that nonsense.
Apologies, you bute. LOL
I agree on that nonsense video, it seems to come up every couple of months somewhere
 

Scram1500

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Not to be the grammar police but I think it's beaut, like beautiful
 

mikeru82

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So the use of 0w-20 is for fuel efficiency.
0w-20 provides no increase in fuel efficiency over 5w-20, other than perhaps for the first 30 seconds after a cold start. Once the oil starts to warm up its viscosity pretty much mirrors 5w-20. 0w-20 flows slightly better when cold, so you actually do see a benefit from using it since a lot of engine wear occurs at cold start. Especially in colder climates. Once both of these oils are at operating temp, their effective viscosity is 20 wt. So there is no advantage in fuel efficiency with 0w-20 once up to temp.
 

silver billet

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0w-20 provides no increase in fuel efficiency over 5w-20, other than perhaps for the first 30 seconds after a cold start. Once the oil starts to warm up its viscosity pretty much mirrors 5w-20. 0w-20 flows slightly better when cold, so you actually do see a benefit from using it since a lot of engine wear occurs at cold start. Especially in colder climates. Once both of these oils are at operating temp, their effective viscosity is 20 wt. So there is no advantage in fuel efficiency with 0w-20 once up to temp.

0w-20 is definitely classified as a fuel efficiency oil. Many articles on the net about it, for instance:

Whether we actually see any noticable gains? I doubt it, definitely not worth the trade for me.
 

Mr.Grid

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0w-20 is definitely classified as a fuel efficiency oil. Many articles on the net about it, for instance:

Whether we actually see any noticable gains? I doubt it, definitely not worth the trade for me.
So writes Michael C. Brown that holds a Machine Lubrication Technician Level I and Machine Lubricant Analyst Level I certifications through the International Council for Machinery Lubrication. This guy’s qualifications are level entry at best.

Do you think companies like Ford and Toyota that has been using 0w20 in their engines since the 2000’s don’t know what they’re doing? Chrysler goes 5w20 in 2009 and now 0w20 and this is your premise for what you think is wrong oil. You lack any real analytical skills.
 

Cbty2050

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0w-20 is definitely classified as a fuel efficiency oil. Many articles on the net about it, for instance:

Whether we actually see any noticable gains? I doubt it, definitely not worth the trade for me.
You have already decided that RL 5w30 is the greatest thing ever. That's great until you have an issue under warranty and supply receipts with the incorrect oil. What would you tell the person that has that problem? The correct oil is listed and the owners should use that until they are out of warranty.
 

mikeru82

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0w-20 is definitely classified as a fuel efficiency oil. Many articles on the net about it, for instance:

Whether we actually see any noticable gains? I doubt it, definitely not worth the trade for me.
I never made any claim about it not being more fuel efficient, just that It's no more fuel efficient than 5w-20.
 

silver billet

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You have already decided that RL 5w30 is the greatest thing ever. That's great until you have an issue under warranty and supply receipts with the incorrect oil. What would you tell the person that has that problem? The correct oil is listed and the owners should use that until they are out of warranty.

I usually tell people that warranty work may be an issue. If I didn't do that earlier in this specific thread, then that was an oversight, but I'm not going to mention it in every single post on this topic either.

My opinion on RL though, is that it is the best oil for the hemi, due to hemi tick. My goal is to keep my truck for many years, so I'm less concerned about the warranty period and more concerned about life after the warranty has expired. If RL is the best oil you can get (you don't have to agree, just follow the logic), and 5w-30 is better suited for towing and working the hemi hard, then I want to run that as soon as possible; not wait for 5 years/100,000 KM and then finally treat the hemi to what is best.

Strictly from a probability and risk perspective; the vast majority of people will never need warranty work on anything that could be oil related.
 

ekaz

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All righty then....since it's been mentioned, let's get this discussion going...what oil (brand, weight, etc.) gives you the best MPGs since MPGs are the most important thing evar! If you tow, is that still the best? One may be better got MPGs, but the other better if towing. Do you pick the MPGs because MPGs while towing or do you get the oil supposedly better for towing and screw the MPGs? What if RL is the best but you're a quart low and Pennzoil is the only thing available? What if you have to take it to the dealer? Will they void something cause there are 2 different brands of oil? What if I have towing oil in? OMG.....I'm confused.
Some of you all need to relax and are taking this way too seriously. Run whatever your comfortable with. You run something other than OEM spec, you assume the risks (if any). You don't dare venture away from what Ram says, your choice and know the risks there as well (if any).
 

silver billet

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All righty then....since it's been mentioned, let's get this discussion going...what oil (brand, weight, etc.) gives you the best MPGs since MPGs are the most important thing evar! If you tow, is that still the best? One may be better got MPGs, but the other better if towing. Do you pick the MPGs because MPGs while towing or do you get the oil supposedly better for towing and screw the MPGs? What if RL is the best but you're a quart low and Pennzoil is the only thing available? What if you have to take it to the dealer? Will they void something cause there are 2 different brands of oil? What if I have towing oil in? OMG.....I'm confused.
Some of you all need to relax and are taking this way too seriously. Run whatever your comfortable with. You run something other than OEM spec, you assume the risks (if any). You don't dare venture away from what Ram says, your choice and know the risks there as well (if any).

I'm confused why you're confused. My preference is very simple: RL 5w-30 in summer, RL 0w-30 for winter.

My dealer knows what I'm running, I give them the jugs and filter.

As for fuel economy, I still get 22+ mpg on the freeway at 63 to 67 mph give or take.
 

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I'm confused why you're confused. My preference is very simple: RL 5w-30 in summer, RL 0w-30 for winter.

My dealer knows what I'm running, I give them the jugs and filter.

As for fuel economy, I still get 22+ mpg on the freeway at 63 to 67 mph give or take.
Man I was confused, I thought you just towed a trailer every place you go...
 

ekaz

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I'm confused why you're confused. My preference is very simple: RL 5w-30 in summer, RL 0w-30 for winter.

My dealer knows what I'm running, I give them the jugs and filter.

As for fuel economy, I still get 22+ mpg on the freeway at 63 to 67 mph give or take.
Who said I was referring to you specifically? Do you feel oil shamed? LOL
 
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