Anyone ACTUALLY running 5w-30 or even 10w-30? Thoughts? Experience? Any REAL TRUTH to throwing a code running higher weight oil (no conjecture please)

[Mr.Grid]

I usually tell people that warranty work may be an issue. If I didn't do that earlier in this specific thread, then that was an oversight, but I'm not going to mention it in every single post on this topic either.

My opinion on RL though, is that it is the best oil for the hemi, due to hemi tick.

Injection can be noisy and varying in sound at idle. Exact same for the Hemi valve train tic if present at idle. The dealer will listen to all this at idle and say “this is normal” which it is. Chrysler posts the same response to Hemi tic in writing. At normal driving speeds you won’t hear any of this as the oil pressure is increased by over 20psi from idle and injection cycling becomes much faster. Besides, you spend the majority of time behind the wheel where it’s quiet, instead of under the hood like another.

sb thinks (knows) that because Hemis can tic at idle that this is a problem. His Delusional Hearing goes even further and he can detect it at (fill in the MPH you want) driving speeds. In goes the magical ($10 qt) RL at (you pick weight) and POOFFFFTT…… instantly quiet at any speed or idle. Now sb been spewing this as his (Non API Approved, Wrong Factory Weight) fix for only he knows how long, when in fact there was never a problem. Millions of Hemis have been on the road without internal mechanical failures (whether towing or not) using the Factory Specific fluids. Have some failed…Absolutely. Nothing is 100%. That’s why they come with a Factory Warranty.

This guys full of more BS than a bull corral at a Rodeo. His identity initials are sb, but they should be bs..

 

[ekaz]

Injection can be noisy and varying in sound at idle. Exact same for the Hemi valve train tic if present at idle. The dealer will listen to all this at idle and say “this is normal” which it is. Chrysler posts the same response to Hemi tic in writing. At normal driving speeds you won’t hear any of this as the oil pressure is increased by over 20psi from idle and injection cycling becomes much faster. Besides, you spend the majority of time behind the wheel where it’s quiet, instead of under the hood like another.

sb thinks (knows) that because Hemis can tic at idle that this is a problem. His Delusional Hearing goes even further and he can detect it at (fill in the MPH you want) driving speeds. In goes the magical ($10 qt) RL at (you pick weight) and POOFFFFTT…… instantly quiet at any speed or idle. Now sb been spewing this as his (Non API Approved, Wrong Factory Weight) fix for only he knows how long, when in fact there was never a problem. Millions of Hemis have been on the road without internal mechanical failures (whether towing or not) using the Factory Specific fluids. Have some failed…Absolutely. Nothing is 100%. That’s why they come with a Factory Warranty.

This guys full of more BS than a bull corral at a Rodeo. His identity initials are sb, but they should be bs..

I mostly agree....but on the 6.1L engines, there was a TSB around lifter noise in warmer climates and the recommendation was to run 15w-50 oil to quiet it down if a customer complains of lifter noise.

 

[Mr.Grid]

I mostly agree....but on the 6.1L engines, there was a TSB around lifter noise in warmer climates and the recommendation was to run 15w-50 oil to quiet it down if a customer complains of lifter noise.

They stopped the newly designed 6.1L 5 yr production of these in 2010. Has nothing to do with 5.7 Hemi.

 

[ekaz]

They stopped the newly designed 6.1L 5 yr production of these in 2010. Has nothing to do with 5.7 Hemi.

I am well aware of when it stopped, just commenting that oil weight can affect lifter noise, that is all.

 

[mike_ct]

in my 4th gens, I ran 5w20 per manual. at 120k, did cam and lifters (lifter roller failure). at 180k, needed cam/lifters again. this time, I replaced with a junkyard motor with 40k. switched to 5w30, and motor is noticeable quieter at idle. have around 80k on it myself at this point, so 120k. verdict is out if 5w30 will keep the lifters happier than 5w20, but so far, its nice a quiet.

so to go back to your original question in post #1, yes, I have run 5w30 in a 5.7 and its doing great.

in my 5th gen, I'm still on 5w20. I will probably switch to 5w30, because the cold dry lifter ticks are starting to worry me.

I will also add that both trucks have MDS disabled in the pcm. I also have the fans come on sooner, because even with 195 thermostats, they typically run ~220 degrees, which is enough to cause spark knock with 87 octane.

 

[Mr.Grid]

in my 4th gens, I ran 5w20 per manual. at 120k, did cam and lifters (lifter roller failure). at 180k, needed cam/lifters again. this time, I replaced with a junkyard motor with 40k. switched to 5w30, and motor is noticeable quieter at idle. have around 80k on it myself at this point, so 120k. verdict is out if 5w30 will keep the lifters happier than 5w20, but so far, its nice a quiet.

so to go back to your original question in post #1, yes, I have run 5w30 in a 5.7 and its doing great.

in my 5th gen, I'm still on 5w20. I will probably switch to 5w30, because the cold dry lifter ticks are starting to worry me.

I will also add that both trucks have MDS disabled in the pcm. I also have the fans come on sooner, because even with 195 thermostats, they typically run ~220 degrees, which is enough to cause spark knock with 87 octane.

Great review Mike. In your 4th Gen w/ 5w20 to start, were you using regular, semi-synthetic or synthetic to the 120k failure point? What oil change intervals?

 

[schmidja]

They stopped the newly designed 6.1L 5 yr production of these in 2010. Has nothing to do with 5.7 Hemi.

Lifter and/or cam noise is lifter and/or cam noise, WHATEVER engine it's coming from - and in most cases it's not a good thing - certainly not a good thing on the 5.7L hemi. So if there's an oil or a component in an oil that quiets things down, it may be doing something good for the engine now - and for the life of the engine (secret -- it's called Moly - and there's a whole bunch of it in Red Line). Be practical and reasonable. This is not rocket science.
If you or whomever has a goal to squeeze a bit (.1 or so) extra mpg out of your truck, then use a 5w20 or 0w20 of any approved brand you like (by the way, my Owner's Manual actually says that a lower viscosity oil is recommended for FUEL ECONOMY). Fuel Economy is also known as EFFICIENCY. On the other hand, if your goal is to increase longevity, decrease wear, improve performance, potentially eliminate problems (hmmm lifters/cam comes to mind), etc. then use the very best oil you can find and perhaps a slightly higher viscosity - like the viscosity FCA recommended before the change for EFFICIENCY ( which was ... you guessed it - 5w30). Red Line is certainly a better oil (not my opinion - look at oil analysis reports) and it just so happens that Red Line sells their better oil, in a 5w30 viscosity. Oh, and by the way, for me (and I'd venture to say for many if not most) ... we did NOT choose the 5.7L hemi engine option in our trucks for mpg / fuel EFFICIENCY! Good day!

 

[mike_ct]

Great review Mike. In your 4th Gen w/ 5w20 to start, were you using regular, semi-synthetic or synthetic to the 120k failure point? What oil change intervals?

Synthetic since new, usually Mobil 1 or penzoil. Changed whenever the interval counter reminder get to around 20%.

 

[Scram1500]

Whatever oil is used, change it on time, not like this schmuck

MSN

 

[schmidja]

....and you have facts to back up this statement, right?

Unfortunately, the Hemi oil filter location was decided years before the 5th Gen trucks were even a thought.

"This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy." -- RIght out of the Owner's Manual, under Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 5.7L Engine.

 

[Scram1500]

If 5w 20 increases economy wouldn't that mean there is less friction? Which would in turn mean better lubrication?

 

[Idahoktm]

"This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy." -- RIght out of the Owner's Manual, under Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 5.7L Engine.

That's not proof of anything.

 

[Trooper4]

Just found this little ditty on the new for those who are interested.

MSN

 

[mikeru82]

Just found this little ditty on the new for those who are interested.

MSN

That's one time I'm siding with Stellantis. The guy wasn't changing his oil as often as is required for warranty coverage. Case closed.

 

[Mr.Grid]

Lifter and/or cam noise is lifter and/or cam noise, WHATEVER engine it's coming from - and in most cases it's not a good thing - certainly not a good thing on the 5.7L hemi. So if there's an oil or a component in an oil that quiets things down, it may be doing something good for the engine now - and for the life of the engine (secret -- it's called Moly - and there's a whole bunch of it in Red Line). Be practical and reasonable. This is not rocket science.
If you or whomever has a goal to squeeze a bit (.1 or so) extra mpg out of your truck, then use a 5w20 or 0w20 of any approved brand you like (by the way, my Owner's Manual actually says that a lower viscosity oil is recommended for FUEL ECONOMY). Fuel Economy is also known as EFFICIENCY. On the other hand, if your goal is to increase longevity, decrease wear, improve performance, potentially eliminate problems (hmmm lifters/cam comes to mind), etc. then use the very best oil you can find and perhaps a slightly higher viscosity - like the viscosity FCA recommended before the change for EFFICIENCY ( which was ... you guessed it - 5w30). Red Line is certainly a better oil (not my opinion - look at oil analysis reports) and it just so happens that Red Line sells their better oil, in a 5w30 viscosity. Oh, and by the way, for me (and I'd venture to say for many if not most) ... we did NOT choose the 5.7L hemi engine option in our trucks for mpg / fuel EFFICIENCY! Good day!

Here’s a photo of the non-API approved oil analysis reports from my race engines that I only do once a year, partly looking at the oil package I’m using. Some have Molybdenum, some don’t. These oils are all 10w30. NONE of these oils are RL. None of these oils cost anywhere close to what RL race or street oils costs.

If you believe that higher amounts of Molybdenum are better, change your own oil and need to be able to prove that you have used the correct Factory approved oil for warranty service, then you should consider using Havoline motor oil. It costs dramatically less than RL, and Unlike RL that has No Industry Approvals, Havoline is GF-6 /API SP and meets Chrysler MS-6395 specifications.

If you go to “The Petroleum Quality Institute of America” web page https://pqia.org/ and select Products Tested, Passenger Car Motor Oils, then from the list select any Havoline product to see the oil analysis.

 

[schmidja]

If 5w 20 increases economy wouldn't that mean there is less friction? Which would in turn mean better lubrication?

It could, but you could also get less friction by using sewing machine oil. That would give even better economy - at the expense of the life of the engine. There's a fine line between friction, lubrication, economy/efficiency, and protecting the engine ... Thanks.

 

[schmidja]

Here’s a photo of the non-API approved oil analysis reports from my race engines that I only do once a year, partly looking at the oil package I’m using. Some have Molybdenum, some don’t. These oils are all 10w30. NONE of these oils are RL. None of these oils cost anywhere close to what RL race or street oils costs.

If you believe that higher amounts of Molybdenum are better, change your own oil and need to be able to prove that you have used the correct Factory approved oil for warranty service, then you should consider using Havoline motor oil. It costs dramatically less than RL, and Unlike RL that has No Industry Approvals, Havoline is GF-6 /API SP and meets Chrysler MS-6395 specifications.

If you go to “The Petroleum Quality Institute of America” web page https://pqia.org/ and select Products Tested, Passenger Car Motor Oils, then from the list select any Havoline product to see the oil analysis.
View attachment 118675

Hello MrGrid. Yes, I have heard/read that there are some similar characteristics with Havoline. I actually tried to go down that path in the early days of my hemi adventure, but came up short somewhere along the way with the Havoline. I'll see what I can find on that ... I seem to recall that Havoline was more like RLs lowest tier of oil (they have 3 tiers) -- perhaps the oil base itself was different .. groups, PAO, etc?? (I'll research a bit) In any case, it would certainly be nice not to have to spend $11/quart for RL. For me, the whole warranty thing is, well, I don't want to sound too crazy, but when it comes to the engine itself, I'm trying to be proactive to head off any issues so I don't have to use the warranty - while at the same time realizing that if there is a problem with the engine, then I get to take my engine apart, probably do a MDS delete, new cam, new lifters, headers, tune, etc. funded out of my own pocket. Not the end of the world for me -- not my DD, would actually be a fun project. Thanks for your info!
John

 

[J-Cooz]

I know it's been hashed out before but the search function is not returning anything useful and I've been gone for a while.

Not looking for debate, just hoping to get any first hand accounts of 2020 or 2021 1500 owners running a heavier oil. My last oil change I did was when the oil was still hot and in my opinion the 5w-20 is way too thin. So being in SoCal I'm thinking on trying 5w-30 but again wondering if anyone is actually running heavier weight and their experience with it and whether or not any REAL truth to the possible FUD about the truck throwing a code. I'm hoping for REAL experience of it throwing a code or not throwing a code while running higher weight, not conjecture.

Much Thx
SpookyWatcher

Your engine doesn't really care that it's warm out. It runs the same general temperatures regardless of ambient.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

Your engine doesn't really care that it's warm out. It runs the same general temperatures regardless of ambient.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

You are the first I have noticed to point this out. After running a few minutes my temperature gauge reads the same if it If 10 degrees out or 100.

 

[Mr.Grid]

mike_ct wrote that his 4th gen had lifter failure at 120k miles, replaced failed components and failed again at 180k miles. This was using 5w20 full synthetic oils (Thanks Mike for the follow up) and changing Before oil service indicator required service. His replacement engine is now running 5w30 which he stated is quieter, and also has the MDS system disabled.

In my 2011 Ram Hemi that went 179k I used nothing but 5w20 Citgo semi-synthetic that was changed religiously at 3k miles and never more than 4k miles on several occasions. I towed a 7k# trailer 84k miles during this period in all weathers and extended grades to 5%.

One of the MDS lifters failed when I was 500 miles from home while towing in late August 2021 and was actually able to limp (55 max) it home pulling the trailer. I was aware that the MDS system in these engines could be a problem but didn’t think it’d happen until mine failed. I firmly believe now that early in ownership had the MDS been disabled with an aftermarket programmer in my 2011 I’d still be driving it.

A replacement engine estimate with MDS delete was $11k installed so I opted to sell to racers I knew (mechanics) that replace with a factory re-man and flipped the truck for a nice profit.

I ordered a new 2022 before production started and had it in 55 days. Here I learned how to manually disable the MDS system when driving and have been using this method now. I’m waiting to see if a programmer will be available to permanently disable the MDS in this 2022 and I’d be interested in possibly purchasing.