Anyone ACTUALLY running 5w-30 or even 10w-30? Thoughts? Experience? Any REAL TRUTH to throwing a code running higher weight oil (no conjecture please)

[HSKR R/T]

I use 5w30 redline and FR3 hotshot secrets additive. Zero issues.

If you need an additive in your oil, then is the oil really that good?

 

[Cbty2050]

I use the slippery stuff and change it regularly. Never had a problem

 

[Mopar_maxi]

If you need an additive in your oil, then is the oil really that good?

First time using the FR3. I’ve talked with them for several hours. I’ve had good luck with redline over the years. I got the FR3 for free to try out, so why not?

 

[HSKR R/T]

First time using the FR3. I’ve talked with them for several hours. I’ve had good luck with redline over the years. I got the FR3 for free to try out, so why not?

Adding anything to the oil changes the viscosity of the oil.

 

[Mr.Grid]

I use 5w30 redline and FR3 hotshot secrets additive. Zero issues.

There are no API, ILSAC, ACEA, OEM or any other recognized industry specifications declared on the Red Line Oil label. The Uniform Regulation for the Method of Sale of Commodities – NIST Handbook 130 (HB-130), requires that the label on motor oils display at least one recognized industry specification.

Not saying Red Line is good or bad. Just saying what the Red Line Oil label does Not say, because there isn’t any certification.

From MOPAR SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE. American Petroleum Institute (API), Approved Engine Oil. These symbols mean that the oil has been certified by the API. The manufacturer only recommends API trademark oils. The API Starburst trademark certifies 0W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30 engine oils. The API Donut trademark certifies 0W-40 and 5W-40 engine oil.

 

[silver billet]

There are no API, ILSAC, ACEA, OEM or any other recognized industry specifications declared on the Red Line Oil label. The Uniform Regulation for the Method of Sale of Commodities – NIST Handbook 130 (HB-130), requires that the label on motor oils display at least one recognized industry specification.

Not saying Red Line is good or bad. Just saying what the Red Line Oil label does Not say, because there isn’t any certification.

From MOPAR SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE. American Petroleum Institute (API), Approved Engine Oil. These symbols mean that the oil has been certified by the API. The manufacturer only recommends API trademark oils. The API Starburst trademark certifies 0W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30 engine oils. The API Donut trademark certifies 0W-40 and 5W-40 engine oil.

Redline doesn't pay for some of these certifications. I know they meet or exceed them in some areas. My jug says "recommended for API SN SM SL" etc. Very few companies even bother to certifiy for chyrsler's spec as it's costly and takes a long time.

 

[Mr.Grid]

Redline doesn't pay for some of these certifications. I know they meet or exceed them in some areas. My jug says "recommended for API SN SM SL" etc. Very few companies even bother to certifiy for chyrsler's spec as it's costly and takes a long time.

Red Line doesn’t pay for Any certifications. They “recommend” their oil for x,y,z because they are selling it.

The Chrysler MS-6395 oil specification can be found on enough oils to make it easy to purchase at a discount.

 

[silver billet]

Red Line doesn’t pay for Any certifications. They “recommend” their oil for x,y,z because they are selling it.

The Chrysler MS-6395 oil specification can be found on enough oils to make it easy to purchase at a discount.

You're getting stuck on "paying for certification". You don't have to pay for the certification to meet or exceed it.

 

[Mr.Grid]

You're getting stuck on "paying for certification". You don't have to pay for the certification to meet or exceed it.

Tell that to Chrysler, Ford, GM, Toyota, BMW, Honda and Hyundai….lmao

 

[Cbty2050]

Redline has awarded themself the highest rating ever.

 

[silver billet]

Tell that to Chrysler, Ford, GM, Toyota, BMW, Honda and Hyundai….lmao

I'll tell you what. You find a cheaper oil that can kill hemi tick 80% of the time, and I'll switch to that. There are videos on ramforum/bitog showing ticking hemis and the sound they make when swapping oils, RL is the only one that's doing it so far. You don't have to take my word for it, google it.

And even without the tick, the entire "clatter" of the hemi has quieted down incredibly. Not just something I noticed either, there is a reason it's called "hemi honey".

 

[Cbty2050]

Redline doesn't pay for some of these certifications. I know they meet or exceed them in some areas. My jug says "recommended for API SN SM SL" etc. Very few companies even bother to certifiy for chyrsler's spec as it's costly and takes a long time.

Kirkland oil meets Chrysler specs..... but so few do it.

 

[Mr.Grid]

I'll tell you what. You find a cheaper oil that can kill hemi tick 80% of the time, and I'll switch to that. There are videos on ramforum/bitog showing ticking hemis and the sound they make when swapping oils, RL is the only one that's doing it so far. You don't have to take my word for it, google it.

And even without the tick, the entire "clatter" of the hemi has quieted down incredibly. Not just something I noticed either, there is a reason it's called "hemi honey".

I spend little to no time listening to my engine idle when I start it up and back out of the garage, much less with my head under the hood thinking something doesn’t sound right at idle. The majority of my time is driving 45+ mph. When I was pulling that 7k# trailer through WV in November with this new 2022 it sounded just like the 2011 Ram Hemi 179K mile prior. I just changed the oil in December and API certified, MS-6395 0w20 (Havoline PRO-DS from Walmart) went in as specified in the service manual. Sounds exactly the same, especially at WOT getting on the highway. Right now it’s sub-zero mornings and it sounds normal when driving.

If you have a problem with your engine making noise, I suggest taking it to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem for you. As for your advice on what others should be using in their Hemi engines with a factory warranty or without, I find it to be poor at best.

 

[Idahoktm]

It's funny that quieting down Hemi tick is a way to determine the quality of an oil. I always thought it was much more scientific.

 

[silver billet]

I spend little to no time listening to my engine idle when I start it up and back out of the garage, much less with my head under the hood thinking something doesn’t sound right at idle. The majority of my time is driving 45+ mph. When I was pulling that 7k# trailer through WV in November with this new 2022 it sounded just like the 2011 Ram Hemi 179K mile prior. I just changed the oil in December and API certified, MS-6395 0w20 (Havoline PRO-DS from Walmart) went in as specified in the service manual. Sounds exactly the same, especially at WOT getting on the highway. Right now it’s sub-zero mornings and it sounds normal when driving.

If you have a problem with your engine making noise, I suggest taking it to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem for you. As for your advice on what others should be using in their Hemi engines with a factory warranty or without, I find it to be poor at best.

All hemis sound like that on factory oil, its ditch water. Pulling a trailer on 0w-20 is a bad choice, but its your money...

 

[silver billet]

It's funny that quieting down Hemi tick is a way to determine the quality of an oil. I always thought it was much more scientific.

The science is in the formula, the results literally speak for themselves. The UOA reports are kind of nice too

 

[Mr.Grid]

All hemis sound like that on factory oil, its ditch water. Pulling a trailer on 0w-20 is a bad choice, but its your money...

The engine sounds like nothing out of the ordinary and you call that a problem and that the factory weight oil is incorrect. You sound delusional. Then you think that based on your experience hauling your groceries home every Friday, that me, already towing the same 7k# trailer over 125k miles with Hemi engines don’t know what I’m doing by following the Factory Service specs.

Like I wrote earlier, your advice is poor with nothing to back it up but your opinion of what you think you hear. You should try spending more time behind the wheel listening to the sound system instead of under the hood listening to the engine imho.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

Let's face reality. They spec'd the oil just to see if they could make people on forums have meltdowns over oil weight.

Someone is collecting on a bet somewhere....

They succeeded. The heat is on high and meltdowns have commenced.

I wonder who is collecting the bet money.

 

[SD Rebel]

It all started with Ford in 2001, when they started specing 5W-20 over 5W-30 on all there F150 engines, they even back-spec'ed it to earlier models. I remember being on the forums then and here we are still, lol.

The same arguments from both side with no conclusive data on either. That's why regardless of what I think personally, I understand those who are on the opposite opinion. Because at the end, we don't really know if there is an actual difference.

 

[HSKR R/T]

It all started with Ford in 2001, when they started specing 5W-20 over 5W-30 on all there F150 engines, they even back-spec'ed it to earlier models. I remember being on the forums then and here we are still, lol.

The same arguments from both side with no conclusive data on either. That's why regardless of what I think personally, I understand those who are on the opposite opinion. Because at the end, we don't really know if there is an actual difference.

As long as you run good quality oil and change it regularly, there probably isn't any measurable difference.