Assume this is a 22 not 21? As I see Uconnect 5 ? Is that right?I forgot to mention, I had to cut the white wire on my front camera for correct picture orientation.
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Assume this is a 22 not 21? As I see Uconnect 5 ? Is that right?
Also I understand where to connect the red at fuse panel , but where do you connect it behind the radio?
I don’t have it in front of me, but I’m pretty sure it’s different pin numbers and am sure they’re different molex connectors between versions.Can anyone say if the pins for 21 with Uconnect 4 are the 21 and 22 pins? Also I see this plug is plugged into the back of the u connect module. He one that is mounted behind the screen? Anyone that added the aux plug I know there was 2 different sets of pins people mentioned. If someone can let me know.
On my ‘21, I didn’t use any and liked how it looked. I have another sitting for my ‘22 that I haven’t decided if I’ll install, but my guess is I’ll use no shims on that either. My mount point was/will be the bottom center of the RAM logo.For those that used the
NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Black)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H852D4...2J59H?_encoding=UTF8&affid=5thgenrams-20&th=1
Which of the 3 shims/gaskets did you use to get the best angle?
Thanks, I plan on installing under the A in RAM like has been done by others. I'd hate to get it in there and have to change the shim as others have said how difficult it is to get your arm behind the grill if not completely removing it.On my ‘21, I didn’t use any and liked how it looked. I have another sitting for my ‘22 that I haven’t decided if I’ll install, but my guess is I’ll use no shims on that either. My mount point was/will be the bottom center of the RAM logo.
I didn’t pull the grill, so it was very difficult. I put the nut on and started the threads with a long magnet pick up tool, which was a pita. I couldn’t reach it by hand.Thanks, I plan on installing under the A in RAM like has been done by others. I'd hate to get it in there and have to change the shim as others have said how difficult it is to get your arm behind the grill if not completely removing it.
The magnet is a good ideaI didn’t pull the grill, so it was very difficult. I put the nut on and started the threads with a long magnet pick up tool, which was a pita. I couldn’t reach it by hand.
Wow, that's tight. Looks like whichever shim or none I decide to go with is going to be the right one because I won't be going back in to change it LoLI just went back and found a pic. I used an engineered wood floor pulling block made of nylon to wedge the top of the grill open enough to work in the area. Notice one of the grill mounts- it only gave me an extra 1.5-2” clearance.
View attachment 145229
No. In order to get that particular cargo camera to work, you would have to install the entire surround view camera system.@Jimmy07
Just curious, but I was able to install the digital rearview mirror on my ‘22 2500 with the dual camera CHMSL (fakra to fakra). The cargo cam also looks to be digital (fakra female) and there are inputs on the Uconnect 5 module that are fakra female. Would simply going fakra to fakra from the cargo cam to UC5 module work on these newer trucks, along with enabling the CHMSL with Alfa obd?
No. In order to get that particular cargo camera to work, you would have to install the entire surround view camera system.
I'm just adding the application spec for the '22's connector. I needed to de-pin my plug too.For the 2022+ trucks with Uconnect 5,
Another member had posted a link to a Mopar Connection Repair Kit site, Mopar Connection Repair Kit
I looked up a 2022 truck and got this pinout:
View attachment 138795
Hopefully, we can connect an analog video signal to VIDEO SIGNAL 1 / VIDEO COMMON 1.
The connector is a Molex sTAK50h, https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/stak50h_unsealed_connection_system
On my truck, there are three of these sTAK50h headers, a green, blue, and purple. Only the green and blue are populated. I'll take a look and see if these cavities are populated or not. If they are, hopefully they match this pinout.
I've also ordered some terminals for this. TE and Molex make them.
Molex: TAK50 Terminal, available in a 0.13 (~26AWG) and 0.35 (~22AWG) mm2 wire.
TE: NanoMQS Gen 50 terminal, 22 AWG: 2272196-2 : Generation 50 Automotive Terminals
NOTE: There's also a 26 AWG version of the NanoMQS.
I found some NanoMQS Gen 50 22 AWG terminals from Newark in the UK, so I should have those soon.
Once I get the parts and tools in, I'll share my findings here.