Adding OEM Front Camera?

[ReLLIK75]

Realized I left out what I ordered to tap the fuse for power, but it’s just a micro2 fuse tap. You can get one at most auto parts stores, or get one on Amazon. I ordered the little set linked below just to have some extras. You want to tap into position F66 (10A fuse) for switched accessory power.

BioFuse Micro2 17 Piece Automotive Fuse Assortment and Holders Pack (2 Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap Adapters, 14 Blade Fuses + Fuse Puller) 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HPKJFZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_kMrWFbQ61NZTS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The most challenging part is the physical mounting of the camera. I didn’t wanna take my entire grill off, and I managed to get it done without doing that. I basically just loosened up the top part of the grill so I could wedge my arm between it and the radiator, and get done what I needed to get done. For reference, I did everything up until 1:12 in this video, then stopped. The last thing you see is him sort of unhook the grill and it falls slightly forward. That’s what I worked with.

It was VERY tight to work in and I bruised/scratched my arm up a little bit squeezing in and out of there, but again, I didn’t wanna take the whole grill off. If you ARE willing to take it all the way off, it will certainly make it easier to work.

Also, I did a bunch of messing around with the actual mounting position, angle, etc. Tons of back and forth looking at the screen. I started out with a grill mounting spot underneath the A, but I ultimately wound up mounting it to the bottom of the A in the RAM logo. Drilled up through the bottom of it for the mounting post on the camera. The A is hollow, so you can pull the wire through and also have room to tighten up the nut on the backside of it. Again it’s crazy tight working back there, but it can be done. I wanted an angle that still showed the top of the bumper for positional reference, but with basically the same ratio of bumper-to-rest-of-image that the back camera has. Mounting it here achieved that. Picture below for reference.

Taking the head unit out and doing the pins was probably the easiest part of the whole thing. To give you details, my truck is a 2020 Rebel, and it was indeed pins/positions 21 and 22. 21 being signal, and 22 being ground. I included a picture below showing those positions. There are plenty of videos showing how to remove the headunit, but you basically remove the two screws under the mat by your 12v port on top of the dash, and just yank firmly forward. It’s easier to work if you unhook the connectors from the back of the screen module and get it out of the way. You’ll then unscrew the silver brain module (4 screws), and the harness you need to access for pins is on the back of that.

Regarding running wires through the firewall, there is actually an extra/empty pass through spot available to use. Check this thread for details...

Factory Hood Wiring Grommet

Another Gem while perusing the instructions for the Remote Start Accessory! Ram gave us an open grommet location behind the battery on the firewall to pull at least one wire through the factory grommet:

5thgenrams.com

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions/details that I might have left out.

Did you completely pull the wheel well liner out or did you just wrestle it out of the way to get to the grommet?

 

[toyboy1980]

Did you completely pull the wheel well liner out or did you just wrestle it out of the way to get to the grommet?

The grommet/passthrough I used is easily accessible from the top of the engine compartment, without removing the wheel liner. It’s the one that I included the picture of in my write up. I’ll try to grab you a video.

 

[ReLLIK75]

The grommet/passthrough I used is easily accessible from the top of the engine compartment, without removing the wheel liner. It’s the one that I included the picture of in my write up. I’ll try to grab you a video.

I must be missing something because I don’t see the grommet photo in your write up. I see the link to the thread that talks about the grommet under the driver side wheel well liner and I see the pic of your mounted camera. I’m sorry if I’m being dense here.

 

[toyboy1980]

I must be missing something because I don’t see the grommet photo in your write up. I see the link to the thread that talks about the grommet under the driver side wheel well liner and I see the pic of your mounted camera. I’m sorry if I’m being dense here.

I didn’t include an actual picture, just a link to a thread about it. You can see it behind the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall.

 

[dts828]

I must be missing something because I don’t see the grommet photo in your write up. I see the link to the thread that talks about the grommet under the driver side wheel well liner and I see the pic of your mounted camera. I’m sorry if I’m being dense here.

I didn’t include an actual picture, just a link to a thread about it. You can see it behind the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall.

It's hard to see the first time your looking for it in engine bay as the brake booster hides it a little. If you stick your head under dash you will see the large grommet(about 1_1/2" diameter) to left of brake pedal on firewall.

 

[1500DFW]

I just got my camera installed. I used the OEM mount with the built in camera holder under the A. Taking off that grille was one of the most tedious and time consuming things I have ever done. In the end I’m glad I got it installed and everything works but what a damn pain. Thanks to everyone who posted their input and advice.


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[ReLLIK75]

It's hard to see the first time your looking for it in engine bay as the brake booster hides it a little. If you stick your head under dash you will see the large grommet(about 1_1/2" diameter) to left of brake pedal on firewall.

This is what I’ve got on the drivers side. I’m assuming you’re talking about that big rubber circle on the left? Behind it is a grommet but you can see that cable runs cleanly through. Did you just run the cable through one side of the grommet? I’m assuming you didn’t punch a hole next to the cable.

 

[dts828]

This is what I’ve got on the drivers side. I’m assuming you’re talking about that big rubber circle on the left? Behind it is a grommet but you can see that cable runs cleanly through. Did you just run the cable through one side of the grommet? I’m assuming you didn’t punch a hole next to the cable.

Yes big one with cable going though center. You can cut a 1/2 slit on edge of grommet, slide wires in and then pop grommet back into place or cut a "X" in grommet to allow rca to pass through. Either way just dab a little black silicone to prevent the possibility of water intrusion. Highly doubtful but good precaution.

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[toyboy1980]

This is what I’ve got on the drivers side. I’m assuming you’re talking about that big rubber circle on the left? Behind it is a grommet but you can see that cable runs cleanly through. Did you just run the cable through one side of the grommet? I’m assuming you didn’t punch a hole next to the cable.

@ReLLIK75 Sorry for the confusion. This is NOT the grommet I’m referring to. I’ll get you pictures/videos. Hold on.

 

[toyboy1980]

@ReLLIK75 Here are two videos on Dropbox showing the location I’m using...
Grommet Outside
Grommet Inside

 

[ReLLIK75]

No luck getting this to work. I did figure out that I can use the Tazer for force a reboot of the radio which does bring back the missing functionality of the rear camera (if that's something that happens to you after disconnecting the radio). I've tried pins 21/22 and 24/25 but each time, I get a blue screen for the cargo cam. I think I'm not seating the terminal connectors well enough because when I look at the connector from the front, I can see metal in all the holes where the factor wiring harness is installed. But when I look at the holes where I'm trying to seat the connectors I don't see any metal. Regardless, I've gone through all 4 pins that I ordered and haven't been able to get this working. Now I have to wait on another order from mouser, which won't show up until Friday.

 

[ReLLIK75]

Looks like I missed the part about prying the red face off the harness connector in order to get the pins far enough down (https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/cargo-cam-input-car-pc-telemetry-project.18394/post-251332). Now I have to wait for my new pins to arrive on Friday before I can complete the job.

 

[toyboy1980]

Looks like I missed the part about prying the red face off the harness connector in order to get the pins far enough down (https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/cargo-cam-input-car-pc-telemetry-project.18394/post-251332). Now I have to wait for my new pins to arrive on Friday before I can complete the job.

Yes, correct. Sorry I left that out of my walkthrough. I had done so much reading/research of this project beforehand, I just knew that that was a thing that had to happen. Didn’t even think about adding that detail. DO be careful and patient when prying/releasing that red piece.

You can’t retry with the pins you have?

If you’re a Rebel, it should be 21/22.

 

[ReLLIK75]

Unfortunately, those pins are shot. Crimping and solder is not a good combo. I ordered a dozen this time around to make sure I've got plenty. Think I'm going to crimp and use heat shrink. That should keep it nice and low profile so it fits down inside the hole.

 

[Jimmy07]

Unfortunately, those pins are shot. Crimping and solder is not a good combo. I ordered a dozen this time around to make sure I've got plenty. Think I'm going to crimp and use heat shrink. That should keep it nice and low profile so it fits down inside the hole.

You can’t use a regular crimper to properly crimp these types of terminals. You need a w crimp tool, like this- https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profes...ping+tool&qid=1607008994&sprefix=iwiss&sr=8-3

 

[1500DFW]

Unfortunately, those pins are shot. Crimping and solder is not a good combo. I ordered a dozen this time around to make sure I've got plenty. Think I'm going to crimp and use heat shrink. That should keep it nice and low profile so it fits down inside the hole.

All you need is a pair of needle nose pliers. Then you fold down each tab over the wire one at a time. And the give them a good squeeze once they’re folded over each other.

Then push them in the harness with the same pair of pliers. One at a time and you’ll feel it click in place. They can only go one direction, you’ll know if you’ve got the rotation wrong because they won’t push further down.


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[MayhemMOORE]

Has anyone made any progress on this for the 2020's with the non-Nav radios since a few pages back?

 

[dts828]

Little off topic but the Tazer DT instructions has the turn cam option ljsted to turn on back up camera when you use your turn signals. I tried it and trying to figure out the benifit especially seeing the coverage area of backup cam, I actually thought it was more of a distraction.

Strangely enough the instructions say this option a d the option to enable/disable cargo cam is only available on 8.4 but both options work fine on my 12 inch screen.

Not knocking tazer just wondering if anyone else uses the feature and there thoughts.

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[Jimmy07]

Little off topic but the Tazer DT instructions has the turn cam option ljsted to turn on back up camera when you use your turn signals. I tried it and trying to figure out the benifit especially seeing the coverage area of backup cam, I actually thought it was more of a distraction.

Strangely enough the instructions say this option a d the option to enable/disable cargo cam is only available on 8.4 but both options work fine on my 12 inch screen.

Not knocking tazer just wondering if anyone else uses the feature and there thoughts.

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I can definitely see it making a simple lane change more difficult. Merging left- we’ve gone from simply glancing in the mirror, and over left shoulder to- look over shoulder, look in mirror, pay attention for the blind spot indicator light....then turn head to the right to see the backup camera image in the display? Way too many moves to make a simple maneuver.

 

[toyboy1980]

Unfortunately, those pins are shot. Crimping and solder is not a good combo. I ordered a dozen this time around to make sure I've got plenty. Think I'm going to crimp and use heat shrink. That should keep it nice and low profile so it fits down inside the hole.

Gotcha. Jimmy07 posted the proper crimping tool below for those, but I’ll say that I don’t have one of those, and I did just fine with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also soldered after getting them in place.