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A/T tires

If money is a concern check out the Hankook Dynapro AT2's. Good looking A/T tire.

Also, be prepared, no A/T tire is going to be as quiet as your Dueler's, none. Be prepared for some tire noise, especially if you like to drive with windows up and no radio. You'll notice the difference.
Gotta 'pay to play' if you want a better looking tire.
I've got 41K miles on my Ridge Grapplers (XL-Rated). They were incredibly quiet until about 10K miles ago. I can hear them now but don't really notice them unless the windows are down. Even then they are a lot quieter than other A/T tires I've had (or heard on the road).
 
I've got 41K miles on my Ridge Grapplers (XL-Rated). They were incredibly quiet until about 10K miles ago. I can hear them now but don't really notice them unless the windows are down. Even then they are a lot quieter than other A/T tires I've had (or heard on the road).
Good Point! Forgot to mention that all tires are nice and quiet when they're new.
It's after a few thousand miles that the rubber compound gets a bit harder from all the heat cycles and you REALLY start to hear A/T and more aggressive tires make noise.

I always laugh at tire reviews. Of course they are nice and quiet, you just replaced a worn out, rubber-hardened set of tires with spongy soft new ones. Even the cheapest tire is quiet at first.
 
I have had great luck with Cooper Discoverer A/T 4S. nice and quiet
 
IMO, how a tire looks is very important. When I buy tires, I consider performance, noise, weight, and looks. I wouldn't buy a tire that performs well if it looks like crap.

It's a round chunk of black rubber. Mount it BSW and it is hard to **** up the "looks" of a tire.
 
Agreed...otherwise, we'd all drive boring a$$ Michelin LTX tires. LOL
My comment above is very valid and I agree with @Idahoktm that all factors must be taken into account. We all buy tires for different reasons, my point was that you should never buy a tire solely based on looks without taking into account the more critical factors and performance like wet & dry traction, noise, etc. I bought my Michelins for a specific reason...I don't go off road and wanted a quiet highway tire that had the best specs for wet conditions based on all of the rain we get here in Florida. Do they look boring? They look like any other highway tire or what came on it OEM. However, I will not compromise my safety, or that of my family, because another tire looks "cool" and aggressive ;) Most of the more aggressive tires designed for AT or OFF-ROAD use have horrendous wet traction which is why I went in a totally different direction with my purchase. That's all I'm sayin. Not a hater at all of an aggressive looking tire and wish I could find one I felt confident with.
 
Those are the A/T3WA tires that are more paved road tread pattern than the more aggressive A/T3W tires.
I have a set of the A\T3WA and they are quiet, but they turn into slicks in the mud. They are also only marginal on ice and slushy roads. Biggest positive is that they are light.
 
My comment above is very valid and I agree with @Idahoktm that all factors must be taken into account. We all buy tires for different reasons, my point was that you should never buy a tire solely based on looks without taking into account the more critical factors and performance like wet & dry traction, noise, etc. I bought my Michelins for a specific reason...I don't go off road and wanted a quiet highway tire that had the best specs for wet conditions based on all of the rain we get here in Florida. Do they look boring? They look like any other highway tire or what came on it OEM. However, I will not compromise my safety, or that of my family, because another tire looks "cool" and aggressive ;) Most of the more aggressive tires designed for AT or OFF-ROAD use have horrendous wet traction which is why I went in a totally different direction with my purchase. That's all I'm sayin. Not a hater at all of an aggressive looking tire and wish I could find one I felt confident with.

I agree with you on this as well. I use to buy tires based on looks and very little care of how they performed, but I've bought my fair share of crappy tires to where now I want a good name brand that performs to what I'll be doing daily.
 
My comment above is very valid and I agree with @Idahoktm that all factors must be taken into account. We all buy tires for different reasons, my point was that you should never buy a tire solely based on looks without taking into account the more critical factors and performance like wet & dry traction, noise, etc. I bought my Michelins for a specific reason...I don't go off road and wanted a quiet highway tire that had the best specs for wet conditions based on all of the rain we get here in Florida. Do they look boring? They look like any other highway tire or what came on it OEM. However, I will not compromise my safety, or that of my family, because another tire looks "cool" and aggressive ;) Most of the more aggressive tires designed for AT or OFF-ROAD use have horrendous wet traction which is why I went in a totally different direction with my purchase. That's all I'm sayin. Not a hater at all of an aggressive looking tire and wish I could find one I felt confident with.
Until I saw you quote my post and then I read your sig, I had no idea you had Michelins. I picked on that tire for a reason. If you want a good quite, high performing tire, that's the one. It is bland and simple an oem replacement that performs better. Nothing wrong with that. I've run various A/T tires up here in the northeast for the past 27 years start with BFG KO's. I've run these A/T's in the winter, plowed snow, heavy rains, and transport my family with no issue. That being said, I wouldn't run a mud tire, or some annoyingly loud tire either. It's compromise of looks/performance/and sound for me. Just not performance and nothing else. I wouldn't be driving a truck if that's the case.
 
Put the new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs on last week. Certainly look great and aggressive. Road noise is minimal and ride is great. 50k mile warranty, but obviously longevity is TBD.

I've had 3 sets of **** Cepeck trail country exp in the past. Awesome tire. I got 75k miles on one set that were still in very good shape when I traded. The other sets were around 45k when traded and in excellent shape.
 

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Put the new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs on last week......Road noise is minimal and ride is great.
This is why tire reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. Everyone says this when they first get new tires.
Wait until you have 5k - 10k miles on them and then I'll believe you when you say they're still quiet and ride great.
Tires lose their soft, suppleness after a few thousand miles and then you're left with the remaining 80% of the life of the tire in that condidion.
 
This is why tire reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. Everyone says this when they first get new tires.
Wait until you have 5k - 10k miles on them and then I'll believe you when you say they're still quiet and ride great.
Tires lose their soft, suppleness after a few thousand miles and then you're left with the remaining 80% of the life of the tire in that condidion.
AMEN Buz!
 
Falken Wildpeaks AT3W or Toyo Open Country AT3 fit that criteria

Yup i concur. I went with the 285/60r20. Some slight rub at full lock before I leveled the front with mopar ucas and bilsteins #5 line.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is why tire reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. Everyone says this when they first get new tires.
Wait until you have 5k - 10k miles on them and then I'll believe you when you say they're still quiet and ride great.
Tires lose their soft, suppleness after a few thousand miles and then you're left with the remaining 80% of the life of the tire in that condidion.
And...that is why I said....I just got them.

Also why I gave another tire recommendation based on many sets and many thousands of miles worth of experience.
 
You can find a lot of long term tire reviews. AT tires are going to be louder than highway tires but that's the way it goes. I live in a place with mountains and lots of snow, so louder, better looking tires work for me. 🤣
 
hey everyone - so I am going in tomorrow to get a set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W's put on to replace the stock Duelers - the new Wildpeaks are 275/55R20 (same as Duelers) and they are 117T XL which is a higher load rating and index than the stock tires at 113T SL. I know lots of folks go to C or E rated tires but I want to balance ride, weight for MPG etc. and this is a 1500 so I am not towing heavy and if I am anywhere near towing capacities it is infrequent and short distances. I feel this is the right tire but am curious if I'm missing anything.
 
hey everyone - so I am going in tomorrow to get a set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W's put on to replace the stock Duelers - the new Wildpeaks are 275/55R20 (same as Duelers) and they are 117T XL which is a higher load rating and index than the stock tires at 113T SL. I know lots of folks go to C or E rated tires but I want to balance ride, weight for MPG etc. and this is a 1500 so I am not towing heavy and if I am anywhere near towing capacities it is infrequent and short distances. I feel this is the right tire but am curious if I'm missing anything.
You are not.

The XL-rated tires are similar in load capacity as a C-rated tire. The only difference is that the XL tire is a "beefier" P-rated tire.

C/XL-rated tires are more than enough to meet the requirements of the truck (GVWR / GCWR / Payload / Towing).

The E-rated version is a heavier model of the same tire (10+ lbs in some cases) so will affect your truck's performance (acceleration and fuel economy due to the added inertia).

My last truck was a Ford F-250 and ran E-rated tires on that because of how heavy the truck was (it was a diesel) and the beefier tire was better when hauling heavy.

My 1500 is over 2000 lbs lighter than my F-250 was and I won't be towing anything I consider 'heavy'. The only 2 things that would make me jump from my XL tires to E-rated ones are:

1. Towing heavy. I won't be with this truck which is why I went with the 3.21 rear so no chance of me going over about 5000 lbs which is perfectly within my XL tires capabilities.

2. Serious off-roading. If I had any plans for overlanding or hard-core off-roading (e.g. rock crawling) then I'd go E-rated for the beefier sidewall to reduce my chance of flats in the middle of nowhere.
 
You are not.

The XL-rated tires are similar in load capacity as a C-rated tire. The only difference is that the XL tire is a "beefier" P-rated tire.

C/XL-rated tires are more than enough to meet the requirements of the truck (GVWR / GCWR / Payload / Towing).

The E-rated version is a heavier model of the same tire (10+ lbs in some cases) so will affect your truck's performance (acceleration and fuel economy due to the added inertia).

My last truck was a Ford F-250 and ran E-rated tires on that because of how heavy the truck was (it was a diesel) and the beefier tire was better when hauling heavy.

My 1500 is over 2000 lbs lighter than my F-250 was and I won't be towing anything I consider 'heavy'. The only 2 things that would make me jump from my XL tires to E-rated ones are:

1. Towing heavy. I won't be with this truck which is why I went with the 3.21 rear so no chance of me going over about 5000 lbs which is perfectly within my XL tires capabilities.

2. Serious off-roading. If I had any plans for overlanding or hard-core off-roading (e.g. rock crawling) then I'd go E-rated for the beefier sidewall to reduce my chance of flats in the middle of nowhere.
Thanks for the great info and confirmation of what I was seeing - going even to a D1 tire adds 6 lbs/tire so I wanted to avoid the extra weight. I use my truck very similar to what you describe so have the same reasoning - daily driver, occasional mild off-roading for hunting, occasional towing and at times may approach 7,000lbs but these tires are rated for 2,833lbs/tire which exceeds axle ratings and hitch weight so wouldn't be a limiting factor.
 

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