5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[Anthonyklenk]

Hello everyone.

I’ve been reading page after page and haven’t found what I’m looking for.


I replaced all factory speakers with the infinity reference 6x9’s and 3.5”s in the dash.

2020 ram 1500 Base radio, ANC bypassed.

When I turn the volume up past 22/24 the speakers cut out. Which I’m assuming is because the internal amp in the radio itself is overloading.

So what I want to know, is what exactly do I need to do to add an amplifier to the door speakers?

I just ordered the PAC bypass harness so I can use the high level inputs for the amp, but then I saw there’s a load resistance issue if you do that to where you won’t get any audio. So I ordered the kicker KISLOAD4 to negate that issue, but then I saw people saying you don’t have to do that on the 5th gens.

So can someone please clarify what I need to do just to amplify my door speakers please and thank you!

 

[RichInMN]

First step is to let people know if you are running the "Base 6" or the "Alpine" system as the upgrade paths are radically different. And also if you have a diesel/missing ANC.

Then suggestions will be more targeted and accurate

 

[MannyN]

First step is to let people know if you are running the "Base 6" or the "Alpine" system as the upgrade paths are radically different. And also if you have a diesel/missing ANC.

Then suggestions will be more targeted and accurate

He answered this in the post above.
" 2020 Ram 1500 Base Radio ANC bypassed "

 

[RichInMN]

He answered this in the post above.
" 2020 Ram 1500 Base Radio ANC bypassed "

Reading comprehension - never was my strongest suit if I'm honest!

 

[User_63152]

Best bet is get a DSP. Kicker has the Key200.4 Smart Amplifier (50x4) with auto-EQ. I had one and it worked really well. Or, you can use the new Kicker KeyLOC Smart Line Out Converter, if you want a different amp setup. My stereo guy just installed a KeyLOC in a customer's new Bronco. They work great.

There are others, but those are the ones I have experience with. I upgraded to the Expert Electronics PX-2 dedicated DSP. Just need a clean signal and the DSP will do the rest. Ultimate control. Channel routing, db gain levels, limiter, EQ in, EQ channel, phase (0/180) and delay (time correction). And it's Bluetooth controlled via an app.

 

[Anthonyklenk]

Best bet is get a DSP. Kicker has the Key200.4 Smart Amplifier (50x4) with auto-EQ. I had one and it worked really well. Or, you can use the new Kicker KeyLOC Smart Line Out Converter, if you want a different amp setup. My stereo guy just installed a KeyLOC in a customer's new Bronco. They work great.

There are others, but those are the ones I have experience with. I upgraded to the Expert Electronics PX-2 dedicated DSP. Just need a clean signal and the DSP will do the rest. Ultimate control. Channel routing, db gain levels, limiter, EQ in, EQ channel, phase (0/180) and delay (time correction). And it's Bluetooth controlled via an app.

So far. I ordered a kenwood 100watt x 4 channel amp, the kicker KIS module ( was only $40 on Amazon ) and the PAC anc bypass module so I can cut the speaker wires to run to the kicker module and amp.

From reading a few comments I believe this should work but there were so many other comments saying it wouldn’t, or do this instead of that, etc.

I know there’s a million ways to skin a cat when it comes to car audio, I just want to make sure my plan actually skins the cat. Lol


So from my research my plan is to run the factory speaker leads into the Kicker KIS4 module, from that into the amplifier, then out of the amp back into the factory speaker wires. All being done under the drivers seat.
I don’t foresee any issue with this, I’m just unsure if I am doing too much with the Kicker KIS4 module or I don’t even need it or?

Where I sit right now, with all 6 factory speakers replaced with the infinity reference 6x9s and 3.5’s, if I turn the volume up past 22 the music will cut in and out. Which from my knowledge would lead me to believe it’s due to a lack of power from the factory radio. Being that I’ve already excluded the ANC, I see a lack of power being the only thing left

All the videos I’ve watched of people doing the same speaker replacement never mention this cut out of audio.

 

[RichInMN]

So far. I ordered a kenwood 100watt x 4 channel amp, the kicker KIS module ( was only $40 on Amazon ) and the PAC anc bypass module so I can cut the speaker wires to run to the kicker module and amp.

From reading a few comments I believe this should work but there were so many other comments saying it wouldn’t, or do this instead of that, etc.

I know there’s a million ways to skin a cat when it comes to car audio, I just want to make sure my plan actually skins the cat. Lol


So from my research my plan is to run the factory speaker leads into the Kicker KIS4 module, from that into the amplifier, then out of the amp back into the factory speaker wires. All being done under the drivers seat.
I don’t foresee any issue with this, I’m just unsure if I am doing too much with the Kicker KIS4 module or I don’t even need it or?

Where I sit right now, with all 6 factory speakers replaced with the infinity reference 6x9s and 3.5’s, if I turn the volume up past 22 the music will cut in and out. Which from my knowledge would lead me to believe it’s due to a lack of power from the factory radio. Being that I’ve already excluded the ANC, I see a lack of power being the only thing left

All the videos I’ve watched of people doing the same speaker replacement never mention this cut out of audio.

The audio cutout is a concern - could be a speaker failing mechanically (intermittent short with load), something in the head unit, or anywhere in-between. The good news is the head unit amplifier will not be taxed by just sending signal to the LOC via the Kicker load module. And if it's a speaker you'll find out soon enough when it's amplified. Good luck with the install!

 

[Jonathan19Limited]

Hello everyone.

I’ve been reading page after page and haven’t found what I’m looking for.


I replaced all factory speakers with the infinity reference 6x9’s and 3.5”s in the dash.

2020 ram 1500 Base radio, ANC bypassed.

When I turn the volume up past 22/24 the speakers cut out. Which I’m assuming is because the internal amp in the radio itself is overloading.

So what I want to know, is what exactly do I need to do to add an amplifier to the door speakers?

I just ordered the PAC bypass harness so I can use the high level inputs for the amp, but then I saw there’s a load resistance issue if you do that to where you won’t get any audio. So I ordered the kicker KISLOAD4 to negate that issue, but then I saw people saying you don’t have to do that on the 5th gens.

So can someone please clarify what I need to do just to amplify my door speakers please and thank you!

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the base stereo runs 8ohm speakers, and those infinity’s are 3or4ohm if I remember right.
Putting lower ohm speakers than designed for will over work the factory amp causing it to cut out.

 

[Anthonyklenk]

The audio cutout is a concern - could be a speaker failing mechanically (intermittent short with load), something in the head unit, or anywhere in-between. The good news is the head unit amplifier will not be taxed by just sending signal to the LOC via the Kicker load module. And if it's a speaker you'll find out soon enough when it's amplified. Good luck with the install!

Thanks. I’m not concerned that’s it’s the radio or the speakers, rather just the speakers wanting
More power than the radio can give them.

And I’m using the speaker wires as inputs out of the kicker KIS4 module into the amplifier rather than an LOC. regardless from my understanding using this kicker KIS4 basically tricks the factory radio into believing all of the stock speakers are still there, so shouldn’t give me any issue

 

[Anthonyklenk]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the base stereo runs 8ohm speakers, and those infinity’s are 3or4ohm if I remember right.
Putting lower ohm speakers than designed for will over work the factory amp causing it to cut out.

The speakers I pulled out of the doors were stamped with 4ohm and I replaced them with 4ohm. The only difference is the wattage. I don’t know the power rating for the factory speakers but I know they’re nowhere near the 300w the infinitiy’s are rated for.

 

[Jonathan19Limited]

The speakers I pulled out of the doors were stamped with 4ohm and I replaced them with 4ohm. The only difference is the wattage. I don’t know the power rating for the factory speakers but I know they’re nowhere near the 300w the infinitiy’s are rated for.

Gotcha, must the Alpine system I’m thinking of that’s 8ohm. Scratch that possibility then!

 

[User_63152]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the base stereo runs 8ohm speakers, and those infinity’s are 3or4ohm if I remember right.
Putting lower ohm speakers than designed for will over work the factory amp causing it to cut out.

I thought they were 2 ohm. I looked on the back of the magnets, but there are no markings. Just a MOPAR sticker with a serial number and assembled in Mexico.

 

[IndianaRam]

Alpine system speakers are 2ohm. I've changed out all my door speakers with CDT Audio speakers and JBL Club tweeters.

 

[hockeyboy]

After reading through this thread there are a couple things I'm still wondering about. I have the base 6 speaker system. 1. How do I know if I have ANC? Do all trucks come through with this, or only certain trims? 2. People with ANC who went with FaitalPro, did you find a need to bypass the ANC? I don't intend to have it cranked up a bunch, I'd just like some nice sound. Thanks

​

 

[Scram1500]

All Hemi's should have ANC, the module is under the drivers seat

 

[hockeyboy]

All Hemi's should have ANC, the module is under the drivers seat

Okay, makes sense. Looks something like the CD changer I had under my seat in the old days. Thanks.

 

[traymo]

Infinity Ref 3032 manufacturer must have wanted the enduser to remove the 4.7uf cap. Why would they include the 270uf cap if adding it in line with the 4.7uf cap still in place still gives you a 4.6uf total cap value? Same as what's there. Following this assumption then if they intended you to remove the smaller cap from the speaker and use the big 270uf cap, they must have been comfortable with the customer using this speaker at 4 ohms and a 150hz crossover point. Allowing more bass and possible damage? So still keeping to this assumption, this is why my moving it to just under 100hz crossover point, 50 less hz than they did, by using a 4 ohm resistor inline, is why I was able to drive around for 2 hours and blast the system between 27 and 30 on the volume indicator and not pop anything. If it has problems of any sort I can change the cap to 99uf and make it a 200hz crossover. I doubt I'd like it then.

Speaker as supplied, 4 ohms, 4.7uf capacitor has an 8000hz crossover point. Result, too loud in front, no midrange or bottom to speak of, lot of posters here didn't like it.
Speaker wired with a series resistor of 4 ohms in series with the supplied 270uf and little 4.7uf cap still in place makes the speaker 8 ohms and a 4000hz crossover point. Still awful
Speaker wired with a 4 ohm resistor in series with the supplied 270uf and the little 4.7uf cap removed, blends with rest of truck speakers and has audiophile quality sound.

What got me in trouble is I watched the Crutchfield video where the gentleman wires the 270uf cap inline on the positive and the 4.7uf cap is still on the speaker. I was rolling dumb.

Probably where a lot of folks here got anyway but I read many posts where people did what I did so I hope this helps. 96 pages this thread so I hope I haven't duped

Hi Joe,

Did you ever replace your door speakers? I have the base 6 speaker system in my Ram. I did the FaitalPRO 3FE22 3" 8 Ohm front speaker upgrade with 0 to 300 Hz at 8 ohms high pass filters. They do sound better than stock, but I think the door speakers are really holding the system back. If you did do your door speakers, what speakers did you go with? How did the FaitalPRO front speakers compare to your Infinity Ref 3032?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Cool Dad]

It sounds like he only upgraded the dash speakers with the Infinity 3032cfx. I got those on order along with 4Ω & 5Ω resistors to tweak it, since it looks like all Infinity Refs are 3Ω. This will be the first project. I have the base 6 speakers on the 8.4" w/ Nav, no ANC. The system isn't bad, but upper mids sound tinny and bass over +2 = mud. It sounds like this was optimized for '80s country music. Anything more modern and you hear the shortcomings.

I'm also curious what door speakers to use... Ref w/ 1 tweeter, Ref w/ 2 tweeters, or the newer Primus? (not spending the $$ on Kappas) I'm not an Infinity fanboi but I already ordered the 3.5s and will stick with the brand for the 6x9s. Had Infinitys way back and remember nothing but good things.

 

[Code2medic]

It sounds like he only upgraded the dash speakers with the Infinity 3032cfx. I got those on order along with 4Ω & 5Ω resistors to tweak it, since it looks like all Infinity Refs are 3Ω. This will be the first project. I have the base 6 speakers on the 8.4" w/ Nav, no ANC. The system isn't bad, but upper mids sound tinny and bass over +2 = mud. It sounds like this was optimized for '80s country music. Anything more modern and you hear the shortcomings.

I'm also curious what door speakers to use... Ref w/ 1 tweeter, Ref w/ 2 tweeters, or the newer Primus? (not spending the $$ on Kappas) I'm not an Infinity fanboi but I already ordered the 3.5s and will stick with the brand for the 6x9s. Had Infinitys way back and remember nothing but good things.

Can’t go wrong with audio frog

 

[Code2medic]