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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I am stumped...
2020 RAM 1500 Limited eTorque V8
w/ANC and Factory Alpine System

Upgraded:
Infinity Reference 9633 x 4 - 6x9 Installed Front and Rear Doors
Infinity Reference 3032 x 2 - Installed in Dash
Used Metra 72-7902/72-6514 Connectors

Issue:
Major ANC drone with windows closed [thought it was a bad muffler at first] = Ha!], zero drone with windows open... So I bought the recommended Pac ANC-CH01 bypass... Just went to install and while the white clip is fine the black Female [Speakers] does not appear the fit the factory Male that traditionally goes into the Mopar 68441768AA Hub [Attached]. Anyone have this issue/resolve?
Couple things: the front Alpine 6x9 are midwoofers only. No reason to run 2/3way speakers. 2nd, the drone is caused due to the polarity on the speakers. I used the metra adapters and had to swap the wires.

No need for the PAC on Alpine if just doing a speaker swap.

Verify speaker polarity with the tester from Amazon. The CD wouldn't play but a YouTube video played through the speakers worked fine.


AUTUT Automotive Speaker Polarity Tester Phasemeter Tool Plastic Shell Audio Signals Tester https://a.co/bChk9bT
 
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Hey all, I'm one of the folks that got stuck in the verification email problems - suffice to say I'm doing the same as many of you. Thought I'd post this here:

TL;DR - swapping the speakers without amping and tapping line level for the sub keeps the factory EQ (6 speaker system) and benefits GREATLY from some easy EQ settings. 4Ohm additional resistance isn't enough to make the additional "brightness" many complain about go away.

So, read this thread, didn't want to spend too much or go nuts pulling the head unit, so I just swapped my stock 6 speaker system and added a sub. I dropped in the Infiniti reference 2-ways for the dash +4ohm resistor and fired up the sub. Huge improvement in clarity, some benefit in sensitivity, but oh man - the spectral balance was... ooof. The front was just to dang bright and the bass was "one note only".

Then I changed the factory EQ... -4mid, -1 treble, 2 positions back on fade. Better (as others have mentioned), but not right. Not at all. Further, I messed around with my amp cutoff and gain settings and still - one note bass. Crap, I was going to have to go fully amped & DSP. But no. no, I'm lazy... There must be a better way.

So I soldered in another 4Ohm resistor to the dash, played with the EQ settings, and things got a bit better, but still problematic. I really wanted to balance this out so I bought some L-pads from PartsExpress and soldered those in. These allow me to go from 0-100% volume on the dash speakers.

I fired up that new setup, and to my surprise, even with the dash speakers off, the brightness problems were still there almost entirely. Either these speakers were crap or the factory EQ was screwing up my otherwise nice speakers. Yep - factory EQ.

So I took some really rough measurements and I started to see what I feared - even with the dash off and the subwoofer off there were large bumps in the response. Suffice to say, it appears they boosted the 50Hz of the stock 6x9's greatly (and there's some cabin gain?) and really extended the highs of the 6x9. As the tweeter (2" stock dash) is crossed over at a high frequency, this boost didn't come through. Once I swapped those speakers and those boosts could be heard... Bam, too much of a good thing.

Luckily, we have a few EQ options - and I'm not done yet, but oh man does this help. I'll optimize and post as people would like, and I can answer any audio questions that people would like...


EQ Settings - I use Spotify to play in my car. It has a built in EQ that automatically switches to your settings in the car - VERY helpful. Note that the Spotify EQ goes 0 to -10db in 1db increments. If you attempt to boost on the Spotify EQ, it lowers you overall output, so don't do that (this system has barely enough without amps...).

Ram EQ - 0 / 0 / 0
Sub EQ - Remote gain 2/3rds, Input gain (line level) at its least sensitive (Pioneer Amp), Low Pass Filter 120Hz
Spotify EQ -
63, -8db (this kills the EQ boost for the stock 6x9s)
125 0 (midbass boost)
250 0 (midbass boost)
500 -2db
1k -4db
2k -6db (way too hot stock)
4k -6db (way too hot stock)
8k -4db
16k -1db

This tuning makes vocals, guitar, and most importantly midbass (tom drums, bass guitar) so much better.

Song References - This is the fun part. Please feel free to add song recommendations and I'd be happy to tweak the tune for deficiencies I hear!

I like doing this tuning by ear, but I also use measurement equipment. IMO, both a required to get it right. Here's some examples (totally random! all music is great!) you can test before and after to see how you like the tune:

Bass Heavy
1.) Intergalactic, Beastie Boys - Lots of bass on this track. I tune things so the midbass doesn't sound gross when this is playing loud.
2.) Dare, Gorillaz - This has a clear 2 note bass track and a lot of variation that you can hear clearly. I try to make sure I can hear all the bass notes similarly.

Drums
1.) Hot For Teacher, Van Halen - This is just a drum track for the first couple minutes. With no midbass these drums sound like hot garbage. You should feel the drums in your chest without the kick drum deafening you.
2.) Enter Sandman, Metallica - Similar to above, not a ton of bass but at high volume this should have plenty of low end power.

Vocals
1.) Bullet With Butterfly Wings, Smashing Pumpkins - Love it or hate it, if you listen to this before you EQ the system you'll want to jerk the wheel into a ditch. I tune this until Billy Corgan's vocals don't make my ears bleed. Also has decent bass, gotta make sure its not too muddy.
2.) Take Me To The Pilot, Elton John - Many of his songs hit some of the higher notes that show the problems with this system un-EQ'd. They need to be tamed.

Welp, this post is long enough for my first one. I need to take some more measurements and there's still plenty of improvement to be had in the bass tuning with the knobs available. Happy to help others and I really appreciate all the knowledge you folks have shared already. I am in your debt!
 
Couple things: the front Alpine 6x9 are midwoofers only. No reason to run 2/3way speakers. 2nd, the drone is caused due to the polarity on the speakers. I used the metra adapters and had to swap the wires.

No need for the PAC on Alpine if just doing a speaker swap.

Verify speaker polarity with the tester from Amazon. The CD wouldn't play but a YouTube video played through the speakers worked fine.


AUTUT Automotive Speaker Polarity Tester Phasemeter Tool Plastic Shell Audio Signals Tester https://a.co/bChk9bT

In case anybody cares or has the same situation, this harness worked and problem solved. Perhaps the ANC/Alpine cancel actually allows the speakers to do what they are made for because it seem to be much improved for sound. Maybe the ANC overall/also cancels the speakers/sounds IDK?

Net/Net and most important:
No - more - drone, zero... none.

 
If you don't have a factory sub or eTorque, then you should still have the sheetmetal cutouts in the rear of the cab where they would go. That would mean you could remove the seat backs and then rear wall carpet to access them. @SpeedyV posted a pic of the battery "suitcase" here and you can see where the bolts hold it in. It goes in the rear drivers side and the sub is on the rear wall passenger side as @I Love Grits posted above. That's a lot of unused room for subs and amps. Wouldn't be surprised if an aftermarket sub enclosure was produced to fit right there. Heck, you might even be able to get the Mopar sub enclosure and roll your own.
You can get the sun from mopar but the standard system doesn’t have the wiring to connect to the sun I went that route and had to take it to an audio specialist who had to wire it into a sub and sound processor
 
Hey all, I'm one of the folks that got stuck in the verification email problems - suffice to say I'm doing the same as many of you. Thought I'd post this here:

TL;DR - swapping the speakers without amping and tapping line level for the sub keeps the factory EQ (6 speaker system) and benefits GREATLY from some easy EQ settings. 4Ohm additional resistance isn't enough to make the additional "brightness" many complain about go away.

So, read this thread, didn't want to spend too much or go nuts pulling the head unit, so I just swapped my stock 6 speaker system and added a sub. I dropped in the Infiniti reference 2-ways for the dash +4ohm resistor and fired up the sub. Huge improvement in clarity, some benefit in sensitivity, but oh man - the spectral balance was... ooof. The front was just to dang bright and the bass was "one note only".

Then I changed the factory EQ... -4mid, -1 treble, 2 positions back on fade. Better (as others have mentioned), but not right. Not at all. Further, I messed around with my amp cutoff and gain settings and still - one note bass. Crap, I was going to have to go fully amped & DSP. But no. no, I'm lazy... There must be a better way.

So I soldered in another 4Ohm resistor to the dash, played with the EQ settings, and things got a bit better, but still problematic. I really wanted to balance this out so I bought some L-pads from PartsExpress and soldered those in. These allow me to go from 0-100% volume on the dash speakers.

I fired up that new setup, and to my surprise, even with the dash speakers off, the brightness problems were still there almost entirely. Either these speakers were crap or the factory EQ was screwing up my otherwise nice speakers. Yep - factory EQ.

So I took some really rough measurements and I started to see what I feared - even with the dash off and the subwoofer off there were large bumps in the response. Suffice to say, it appears they boosted the 50Hz of the stock 6x9's greatly (and there's some cabin gain?) and really extended the highs of the 6x9. As the tweeter (2" stock dash) is crossed over at a high frequency, this boost didn't come through. Once I swapped those speakers and those boosts could be heard... Bam, too much of a good thing.

Luckily, we have a few EQ options - and I'm not done yet, but oh man does this help. I'll optimize and post as people would like, and I can answer any audio questions that people would like...


EQ Settings - I use Spotify to play in my car. It has a built in EQ that automatically switches to your settings in the car - VERY helpful. Note that the Spotify EQ goes 0 to -10db in 1db increments. If you attempt to boost on the Spotify EQ, it lowers you overall output, so don't do that (this system has barely enough without amps...).

Ram EQ - 0 / 0 / 0
Sub EQ - Remote gain 2/3rds, Input gain (line level) at its least sensitive (Pioneer Amp), Low Pass Filter 120Hz
Spotify EQ -
63, -8db (this kills the EQ boost for the stock 6x9s)
125 0 (midbass boost)
250 0 (midbass boost)
500 -2db
1k -4db
2k -6db (way too hot stock)
4k -6db (way too hot stock)
8k -4db
16k -1db

This tuning makes vocals, guitar, and most importantly midbass (tom drums, bass guitar) so much better.

Song References - This is the fun part. Please feel free to add song recommendations and I'd be happy to tweak the tune for deficiencies I hear!

I like doing this tuning by ear, but I also use measurement equipment. IMO, both a required to get it right. Here's some examples (totally random! all music is great!) you can test before and after to see how you like the tune:

Bass Heavy
1.) Intergalactic, Beastie Boys - Lots of bass on this track. I tune things so the midbass doesn't sound gross when this is playing loud.
2.) Dare, Gorillaz - This has a clear 2 note bass track and a lot of variation that you can hear clearly. I try to make sure I can hear all the bass notes similarly.

Drums
1.) Hot For Teacher, Van Halen - This is just a drum track for the first couple minutes. With no midbass these drums sound like hot garbage. You should feel the drums in your chest without the kick drum deafening you.
2.) Enter Sandman, Metallica - Similar to above, not a ton of bass but at high volume this should have plenty of low end power.

Vocals
1.) Bullet With Butterfly Wings, Smashing Pumpkins - Love it or hate it, if you listen to this before you EQ the system you'll want to jerk the wheel into a ditch. I tune this until Billy Corgan's vocals don't make my ears bleed. Also has decent bass, gotta make sure its not too muddy.
2.) Take Me To The Pilot, Elton John - Many of his songs hit some of the higher notes that show the problems with this system un-EQ'd. They need to be tamed.

Welp, this post is long enough for my first one. I need to take some more measurements and there's still plenty of improvement to be had in the bass tuning with the knobs available. Happy to help others and I really appreciate all the knowledge you folks have shared already. I am in your debt!

If you already own alfaobd or are looking into getting one a simple thing that worked for me is to change the factory eq curve from the base system to the HK system. This will give you a flat response curve which allows you to fine tune the overall sound with an eq like on your phone and also adds all the lower end bass that is missing. I too traveled down the rabbit whole of trying to make the system sound better without adding a DSP.
 
Amp-pro (ap4-ch41) installation questions- figured this was the best place to ask..

1) I have no idea what is behind the HU.... I've seen a couple pics, but didn't help. I'm going to be running an optical cable to the back right corner (where the factory sub was). Once I pull the unit, where can I get the cable through the dash to run it? I.e. - No idea where the openings are (if that's applicable) Can I run it to the passenger side, or do I need to run it along the driver side? - I realize that I'll know once I pull it... But trying to run cables in advance, and determining if one side is easier, or if it even matters where I run it.

2) DIP switches. #1 switch. For those of you who used Digital/TOS1 - up, or down?
Set DIP switch 1 on (down) to activate two channel mode. In this mode, both the TOSLINK and front RCA outputs (1 and 2) become non-fading outputs. All rear chimes will also be routed through these outputs in two channel mode.

Thanks!
 
Amp-pro (ap4-ch41) installation questions- figured this was the best place to ask..

1) I have no idea what is behind the HU.... I've seen a couple pics, but didn't help. I'm going to be running an optical cable to the back right corner (where the factory sub was). Once I pull the unit, where can I get the cable through the dash to run it? I.e. - No idea where the openings are (if that's applicable) Can I run it to the passenger side, or do I need to run it along the driver side? - I realize that I'll know once I pull it... But trying to run cables in advance, and determining if one side is easier, or if it even matters where I run it.

2) DIP switches. #1 switch. For those of you who used Digital/TOS1 - up, or down?
Set DIP switch 1 on (down) to activate two channel mode. In this mode, both the TOSLINK and front RCA outputs (1 and 2) become non-fading outputs. All rear chimes will also be routed through these outputs in two channel mode.

Thanks!
not understanding about that optical cable.but this guy help me to do my

 
not understanding about that optical cable.but this guy help me to do my

Thanks, appreciate that!

I 've seen JP's video before, but hadn't seen the info about where to run the cables... But - after re-watching, I see he has them on the drivers floorboard, so I guess that's the preferred side.

I wasn't sure about DIP 1, since it specifies the TOSLINK, but he also says in that video it's to make it non-fading. Now that I think about it, Digital/optical is non-fading anyway (from the factory head unit), so it shouldn't matter if I leave it up.
 
Thanks, appreciate that!

I 've seen JP's video before, but hadn't seen the info about where to run the cables... But - after re-watching, I see he has them on the drivers floorboard, so I guess that's the preferred side.

I wasn't sure about DIP 1, since it specifies the TOSLINK, but he also says in that video it's to make it non-fading. Now that I think about it, Digital/optical is non-fading anyway (from the factory head unit), so it shouldn't matter if I leave it up.
i left all button up,a that base knob doesnt do anything.but thats me(IMHO)
 
i left all button up,a that base knob doesnt do anything.but thats me(IMHO)
Yeah.. I already have a bass knob installed that came with my sub amp (I’m taking out a maestro, and installing the PAC to put in a Helix) and it doesn’t do anything at all…. I probably won’t even connect the PAC knob.
 
Yeah.. I already have a bass knob installed that came with my sub amp (I’m taking out a maestro, and installing the PAC to put in a Helix) and it doesn’t do anything at all…. I probably won’t even connect the PAC knob.
that bass knob that came with your amp is the best bet.you can keep the bass knob from the amp pro(even though it doesnt do anything).is the "Helix" a DSP :unsure: ...if your going to use or using the AmpPro then you dont need the "Maestro" your "LOC"is the amp pro and a lot less complicated(y)
 
that bass knob that came with your amp is the best bet.you can keep the bass knob from the amp pro(even though it doesnt do anything).is the "Helix" a DSP :unsure: ...if your going to use or using the AmpPro then you dont need the "Maestro" your "LOC"is the amp pro and a lot less complicated(y)

The Helix I'm using (v 8 MK2) is an Amp/DSP combo. I currently have a Datalink Maestro + Kenwood DSP/Amp, which replaced the factory Amp entirely. But, the DSP functionality on the Kenwood is very limited. So, I'm replacing the Kenwood and Maestro, with with a Helix Amp/DSP combo, but need the AmpPro to get the line out to the Helix. I've already got everything set up, with the existing wiring, other than installing the AmpPro, running an optical cable, and plugging the factory amp back in. That part is easy enough - just wasnt 100% sure where the cable would go.
 
Well Folks,,,, I love my wife.. She just bought me the Alpine Halo 308... The Floating head unit. Got her installed for a trial run in the Ram and (H.... S) Not going back.. This unit is awesome, EZ instal and so far i haven't found anything not working with the factory stuff. I have the two backup cameras, both working just as factory.. Didnt loose my trailer brakes functionality, Didn't loose anything. As soon as i get this permanently installed i will post some pics.. There are a few mods i will be doing,, i. e. glueing a section of plastic cover across the entire back side of the factory radio bezel and CNC milling a new cut out. Doing this on one of those $200 China CNC mills. When this is done,, will look like a factory set up... The sound experience of this unit is just 'WOW'...... I mean really WOW.. and the Dispaly over factory 8.4 and killer. I'j really excited, this thing is meant for the Rams.
Did you ever get this fully installed? Pics?
 
Some questions for the audiophiles here. As a connoisseur of classical music I need clear highs for the violins, cymbals, etc. Will the Infinity Reference 3 1/2s give accurate reproductions or will the HK 3 1/2s be better; both using the stock Alpine amp. Is there any other 6X9 straight subwoofer for the doors than CDT? Are CDTs a good choice? This is a difficult process when there is nowhere to go to listen to the various speakers.

Appreciate all advice. Momma is a little concerned over what I spent in our last vehicle for Focals and accessories so I am treading lightly this time. Thanks
 
Some questions for the audiophiles here. As a connoisseur of classical music I need clear highs for the violins, cymbals, etc. Will the Infinity Reference 3 1/2s give accurate reproductions or will the HK 3 1/2s be better; both using the stock Alpine amp. Is there any other 6X9 straight subwoofer for the doors than CDT? Are CDTs a good choice? This is a difficult process when there is nowhere to go to listen to the various speakers.

Appreciate all advice. Momma is a little concerned over what I spent in our last vehicle for Focals and accessories so I am treading lightly this time. Thanks
The CDT‘s are good, especially for the price. I can’t speak for the HK 3.5”, but ive seen a lot of people upgrade to the the Infinity as the “first speaker swap”. That was the first change I made. Again, for the price, it’s a good change. better than the stock speakers, but I don’t know if you will be completely happy with it, compared to Focals/etc that you had in your last system.
 
What splits the frequency crossover between the dash and the door speakers with the Alpine system? Is it the amp or is there a separate bridge? I find the lower frequencies of the dash stock tweeters/mids too muddied and was wondering if that could be alleviated bt putting the CDTs in the doors and Infinity Refs in the dash. I desire to keep the Alpine amp since Momma has a raised eyebrow on me audio endeavors. It may cost me a few boxes of chocolates and some bouquets; I already do the cooking so meals out doesn't work.
 
I just spoke with a gent at CDT about installing their system for the Rams with an additional speaker for the front middle. He stated they have sold numerous of their Ram assemblies but doesn't know how they are being wired with the Alpine system. Their Ram has the stock radio. their price for 4 CL-69S for the doors and three wide range 2" for the dash is $500. I just don't know how to wire that and keep my amp.
 
going with high end speakers are nice but that amp is not made for those speakers.it is ineffeicent .its made not to play to there highest capicity.as to protect those cheap paper speakers
 
Our radio wasn't retaining the station presets we put in and would change the surround sound and road speed adjustment settings so I took it in to. be looked at. Dealer said they can't do anything to fix it and ordered a new radio out.

While at the dealership, I wanted to price out the HK 3.5s for the dash and was told there are only two presently in the country. Lots of older models but only two of the new ones. I was also told that if someone other than a Dodge dealership installed any speaker other than a Dodge speaker my electrical warranty would be void. Anyone ever hear of that or was air a scare tactic to ensure they got to do the speaker upgrade? Seems odd to me; there's a lot of electrical parts to want under their warranty.
 
Our radio wasn't retaining the station presets we put in and would change the surround sound and road speed adjustment settings so I took it in to. be looked at. Dealer said they can't do anything to fix it and ordered a new radio out.

While at the dealership, I wanted to price out the HK 3.5s for the dash and was told there are only two presently in the country. Lots of older models but only two of the new ones. I was also told that if someone other than a Dodge dealership installed any speaker other than a Dodge speaker my electrical warranty would be void. Anyone ever hear of that or was air a scare tactic to ensure they got to do the speaker upgrade? Seems odd to me; there's a lot of electrical parts to want under their warranty.
Definitely a scare tactic or someone who doesn’t know what the hell they’re talking about. A simple speaker swap isn’t going to void anything.
 

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