2019 ram 19 speaker harmon kardon stereo

[tarnished2929]

I thought my sub was rattling too. I folded down the rear seat backs, pulled the carpet insulation, and found a module behind the rear center console (close to the floor) that was very loose. Its only held on by a plastic push clip. The module vibrates with the bass making it sound like its coming from the sub. I cut a piece of 3m double sided foam tape and installed it behind the module and pressed it into place. No more rattle. I then opened the rear doors, blasted some music, and found where the vibrations were on the door panels. I used a plastic pry tool to lift the panel slightly off the door, put double sided foam tape in, pressed the edges down, and no more noisy rear doors.

Thanks for the tip on the module. I will definitely check that out.

 

[shauste]

I got rattles too playing off Android Auto. My front doors also seem way more solid then the back doors, mainly when closing them I can tell a difference. Did the dynamat not help that much? I was planning on doing that myself as well to help with the rattling from the back end.

I think the rear doors may be aluminum like the tailgate. I can tell a difference over the 2018 Laramie I had.

 

[tarnished2929]

I think the rear doors may be aluminum like the tailgate. I can tell a difference over the 2018 Laramie I had.

Yes, the dynomate did help a bunch.

 

[shauste]

Yes, the dynomate did help a bunch.

You put dynomat in the doors?

 

[Kamikaze6780]

So this update for the hk system. The dealer I go to said they never heard of that

 

[Dontfront82]

So this update for the holidays system. The dealer I go to said they never heard of that

Take the pic of the post, and show them the code on update and tell them u want that done

 

[Gman]

...or find a better dealer.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[wildh24]

7

The fix (TSB update) primarily envolves raising the amp gain to achieve higher volumes. The Sub's gain was increased even more. The overall EQ may have been tweaked a little. Previous complaints where mostly about inadequate volume. Now the complaint is that the sub is a bit overbearing for those who don't like an exaggerated bass.

My concern is with lack of clarity in the bass and very noticeable absence of frequencies in the mid-bass region. It's all boom, no content in the 150-300hz region.

Agree completely. Very boomy. You turn the bass down but then lose below 80 hz and above 150ish.

I find it better with surround off.

I pulled the driver door panel and used a fair amount of noico(dynamat) and that seemed to really tone down the boomyness of the front driver. Going to do the rest this weekend. I also pulled the sub driver in the rear, Stuffed the small box with polyfill, and dynamated the exposed box exterior. Helped a bit there but still is a bit too focused on 100 hz range.

Will report back when I have more time to work on it.

The system would benefit greatly from 12"sealed sub. Was going to go without in this truck but........ It's calling.

 

[LUXTRUK]

Reading all post I agree that surround sound doesn't nearly as good as normal. That being said, the mid and highs sound great, the bass sounds great great in a lot of music but can be boomy at times. I too get rattles from the rear, I know some is in rear power window because it gets worse if I open the rear window while hearing rattles. I can fix rattles. I want to know if I need the update or if I already have it?!? I took delivery of my truck 12/31. The dealer says they couldn't have registered the truck with FIAT CHRYSLER or DMV if there were any TSB that haven't been applied to my truck. My HK sound isn't quiet at all but if there is an update to improve more of course I want it. I also ask about the transmission update. They don't have proof this stuff has been done, they just say the truck was built after the updates and/or everything has been updated or they would be flagged by the VIN and I couldn't take delivery. Right now I'm working on getting new headlights. It's rained a lot since getting my truck. It was raining when I left with it. I've been able to wash it once. I noticed a ton of moisture in passenger headlight after washing. I know people have had trouble with dealers telling them it's normal. I simply stood my ground and said there is no such thing as normal moisture in the headlights of a $70K truck especially since those projector housings are full of electronics for LED headlights, markers, running, parking and DRL. They ordered new headlights for me. Just waiting for them to arrive and be swapped. I just hope it's assembled like factory. I honestly hate this is even having to be done but glad I didn't have to fight to get these expensive headlights replaced. When this is done I need wheels and tires ASAP. Looking at Nitto 285/55r22 on stock or aftermarket wheels. I need a bed cover but don't know where to start. I want a Cold Air Intake but can't find one yet for 2019 1500 5.7 eTorque. Looking at Carven exhaust, looks and sounds nice from their videos. Last thing is a true TUNE. Never had issue with good tuners for GM but not having luck with RAM 5.7. Can't find anyone. Only thing I can find is the Pulsar piggyback PCM add on that some say are great, others say it really does nothing. Any help for any and/or all my concerns would be greatly appreciated.

 

[tarnished2929]

You put dynomat in the doors?

Yes all the doors and the back wall where the subwoofer is.

 

[Eric s]

Mine rattles even on low volume I am regretting buying this truck now.

 

[ips305]

I just took my 2019 1500 into the dealer where I purchased it and they said the TSB does not apply to my vehicle. Still have the issue with the HK sound system. Any advice on who to contact? I tweeted RamCares to see if I get a response.

 

[RamCares]

I just took my 2019 1500 into the dealer where I purchased it and they said the TSB does not apply to my vehicle. Still have the issue with the HK sound system. Any advice on who to contact? I tweeted RamCares to see if I get a response.

Hi ips305,
We're sorry to hear about this. Please feel free to send us a private message if you would like us to look into this. We're happy to help!
Lydia
Ram Social Care Specialist

 

[DennisY]

Just had the amp flash done this week. Night and day difference. So much better!

I finally had mine in the shop today for some recalls. On a 2019. Argh! That aside, I also had them do the amp update (Service Bulletin 08-123-18). As others have said, absolute night and day difference! I think me personally could still appreciate an add-on subwoofer/amp but even without it, I now feel like I have a premium sound system in my Limited! Hooray!

 

[Gond1]

Did you guys see my post of where the rattle was? I was going to dynomat the whole back but found the source in the back glass

Is there a remedy for this? Thanks!

 

[sticker500]

Is there a remedy for this? Thanks!

Is there a remedy for this? Thanks!

I looked but can't find the original picture BUT there a couple fixes. Search Back Glass Bass and you should find a couple.

 

[Gond1]

I took care of the back glass rattle and had my doors dynomated too. There is still a rattle coming from the sub itself.

How did you remedy the back glass rattle? Thanks.

 

[ExcursionDiesel]

How did you remedy the back glass rattle? Thanks.

I believe I read where some people here used a thin adhesive backed felt pad to fill the window track. They cut a small piece and wedged it into the track to tighten the fit. I've done this on other vehicles to fix rattles. You can use a disposable razor to "shave" the felt thickness to fit and still not jam the window movement. Don't remove the plastic on the sticky back until you get the thickness right. Once it glues in, it's tough to get out if it's wrong!

 

[Edwards]

Here's how I fixed mine:

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/rear-window-rattle-fixed-while-closed.7219/

 

[Tbarber]

I read a post where someone installed 16 gauge wire (29" length) into the gap between the glass slide track and the main plastic piece that runs across the entire back (this is not in the window track, but a small gap that can be opened between the window track and the main plastic assembly forward of the window track). With differences in wire types, which result in different girths of the wire, etc. I read posts where some people couldn't open the window, or the motor had to work very hard to open. I decided to try something standard...window screen retainer spline (.120 diameter). The window track is about 29" across, and if you look up behind the plastic assembly you'll see where the window track starts and stops on each side. I used a PLASTIC (not metal) 2" putty knife to pry enough space between the plastic assembly and the window track at the driver's side of the window track assembly with the window closed as there is no glass in the track at that end, making the prying easier. I forced the rubber spline into the gap and then worked my way across using the putty knife as necessary to force it into the gap. As you near the sliding window pane it will become more difficult. At that point open the window all the way, and then you only have a couple inches of difficulty...you'll need a little more force with the putty knife, but it should be no problem. Once you clear the sliding glass you're home free and may even be able to push it into the gap with just your fingers. I ran the spline a little further than the end of the window track (about 1/2") so I can pull it out later if I want to...but it is not noticeable at all. The window slides easily and the rattle is gone.