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AlfaOBD

vincentw56

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Hey guys, I don't like to come on here and ask questions and then turn around and act like I know everything. But having said that, I believe I have the correct cable from my research. this is the one that I bought:


If I'm wrong then I'm wrong. I'm usually not but as we all know, there is a first time for everything
That's the right one.
 

mainjet

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Alright, before we have a full blown Abbott & Costello routine going on about bypasses, I’ll show the different types of bypasses that can be used, and how they’re used.

There are three basic types that can be used, and they all work between the 1500’s and heavy duty rams. Because of the location of the security gateway module on the HD Rams being behind the instrument cluster, Type 3 below is the easiest and most commonly used on those trucks.

Type 1) This one plugs into the two security gateway module connectors, and CREATES A NEW BYPASSED OBD port that the interface plugs into:
View attachment 152367
Below, you can see the security gateway module with its connectors plugged in like normal. Then a pic of those connectors disconnected from the gateway, and plugged into the red bypass:
View attachment 152366

View attachment 152369

Type 2) This would be the bypass “block”, such as the ECRI, infotainment, Z automotive, etc. The tazer would also fall under this type of bypass. Same concept as type 1, except once you plug the security gateway connectors into it, you will plug the interface into the original OBD port:

View attachment 152370

Type 3) This is a bypass that doesn’t use the security gateway module connectors at all, but rather, plugs into the OBD port, and it’s pigtail has two connectors that plug directly into the canbus blocks, effectively bypassing the security gateway. The interface will plug into the OBD port on the end bypass cable:
View attachment 152372
View attachment 152371
This is a perfect explanation and graphical representation. This single post should be a sticky so members don't have to wade through all the incorrect info. Thank you for posting this!
 

HSKR R/T

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Hey guys, I don't like to come on here and ask questions and then turn around and act like I know everything. But having said that, I believe I have the correct cable from my research. this is the one that I bought:


If I'm wrong then I'm wrong. I'm usually not but as we all know, there is a first time for everything 😜
I wasn't trying to steer you wrong. The connectors on that cable appeared too large, IMO, to be for the SGW plugs. The excess amount of plastic kind of threw me off.
 

mainjet

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I wasn't trying to steer you wrong. The connectors on that cable appeared too large, IMO, to be for the SGW plugs. The excess amount of plastic kind of threw me off.
You mean you weren't TRYING to be malicious?! 😜

I know you weren't. This forum has been very good and I appreciate everyone that gives information and pictures trying to help. Like anything, we have to weed through what is true and what might be a mistake.

I take your input the way it was intended and I thank you for it.(y)
 

cskindt

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You mean you weren't TRYING to be malicious?! 😜

I know you weren't. This forum has been very good and I appreciate everyone that gives information and pictures trying to help. Like anything, we have to weed through what is true and what might be a mistake.

I take your input the way it was intended and I thank you for it.(y)
This forum is mostly full of very knowledgeable people that are very helpful with good intentions. I've learned a lot more here than I've contributed. (thank you)
Sometimes semantics, opinions and egos add some fog to the final answer's clarity, but it's in there somewhere to be parsed out.
Unlike other social platforms like FB, where everyone postures and slings insults with little regard to integrity, forums are usually much better for sharing information along with some off-subject remarks.
 

combat grunt

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So a few weeks back my trailer came off and smashed into my rear bumper. Short story used the wrong ball in the wrong trailer and boom lol. So anyway it looked like it hit a sensor and I immediately got the error message shown. I replaced the sensor and disconnected them all and reconnected them still have the error. Check for error codes non are pulling. I found this option in Alfa but not sure if that would help. Tried fuses as well didn’t find any specific fuse and reseated them all since they were all loose lol. Went in evic to message and held down like an oil change reset no joy also held the button on dash to turn it on or off no joy
 

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Brutal_HO

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So a few weeks back my trailer came off and smashed into my rear bumper. Short story used the wrong ball in the wrong trailer and boom lol. So anyway it looked like it hit a sensor and I immediately got the error message shown. I replaced the sensor and disconnected them all and reconnected them still have the error. Check for error codes non are pulling. I found this option in Alfa but not sure if that would help. Tried fuses as well didn’t find any specific fuse and reseated them all since they were all loose lol. Went in evic to message and held down like an oil change reset no joy also held the button on dash to turn it on or off no joy

Not sure where the option is, but I seem to recall someone else having a similar issue and setting their parksense to disable, then re-enabling the specific option and doing a short drive to clear it.
 

combat grunt

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Yeah I can’t find just park sense in my list I found an evic option in commercial settings but that didn’t have the option either
 

Brutal_HO

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Yeah I can’t find just park sense in my list I found an evic option in commercial settings but that didn’t have the option either
It wouldn't be under CSM.

Did you try just searching? put "park" in the option field.

It's probably under P/T Chassis or one of the Veh config listings.
 

Jimmy07

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Yeah I can’t find just park sense in my list I found an evic option in commercial settings but that didn’t have the option either
Don’t connect to the body computer. You need to connect to the parktronics module from the list, then scan it for faults.
 

combat grunt

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Don’t connect to the body computer. You need to connect to the parktronics module from the list, then scan it for faults.
Thanks that was my problem I found the Fault keeps erroring on this one B1297. I will research tonight to figure out which one that is on my bumper and go from that point.
Man my memory is mush lately. LOL.
Anything helps me I'm new to this hole thing I need sidewalk chalk at all times :)
 

Idahoktm

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Thanks that was my problem I found the Fault keeps erroring on this one B1297. I will research tonight to figure out which one that is on my bumper and go from that point.

Anything helps me I'm new to this hole thing I need sidewalk chalk at all times :)
Hole thing?? There's no setting on AlfaOBD to help you with that. 😬
 

combat grunt

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From what I have found so far it’s the 3rd sensor from drivers to passenger side or the one closest to the hitch on the passenger side
 

Jimmy07

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From what I have found so far it’s the 3rd sensor from drivers to passenger side or the one closest to the hitch on the passenger side
B1297 should be sensor 10, which is the sensor on the DRIVER side of the hitch. Which description is it for that fault- short to ground, short to battery, open, etc?
 

combat grunt

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B1297 should be sensor 10, which is the sensor on the DRIVER side of the hitch. Which description is it for that fault- short to ground, short to battery, open, etc?

I replaced that one today with a new mopar one from dealer also didn’t see any issues with the harness maybe I will pull back the coax wrap tommorow and check to see if it crushed a wire when the trailer incident occurred
 

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Jimmy07

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I replaced that one today with a new mopar one from dealer also didn’t see any issues with the harness maybe I will pull back the coax wrap tommorow and check to see if it crushed a wire when the trailer incident occurred
Is that the sensor you replaced (driver side of hitch)? Check the rear bumper harness for any damage. Then disconnect the connector from that sensor and check all possible combinations of the three sockets on that connector to see if there’s any continuity happening. Then check those three sockets against chassis ground for any continuity.
 

Sako458Lott

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DRL question for those in the know. I have a 2023 Limited which has a different Headlight than the other trim levels. The amber turn signal and the upper white accent light are the same and the lower is only white accent. I am assuming I can do two things using AlfaOBD-
1. Make the turn signal a DRL
2. Increase voltage to the accent lights to make them brighter

Is this correct for the 2023 Limiteds?
 

HSKR R/T

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DRL question for those in the know. I have a 2023 Limited which has a different Headlight than the other trim levels. The amber turn signal and the upper white accent light are the same and the lower is only white accent. I am assuming I can do two things using AlfaOBD-
1. Make the turn signal a DRL
2. Increase voltage to the accent lights to make them brighter

Is this correct for the 2023 Limiteds?
You can make turns DRL, but can't increase voltage for the white signature lighting
 

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