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Alpharex Headlight Group Buy - Ends 04/30/20!

Mpickwith

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Reverse connectors to the LEDs... They are polarity sensitive

Thanks swap the wires in this connector?
6122d887e9c44c0d21b9054a3843f041.jpg



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ethemartian

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Just got everything connected. If i turn the car on in auto mode for the headlights they will turn on the left one then the right one then again left and right and turn off. I then cant turn them on even if i switch the headlights to off and back on, they wont turn on...anyone know what can be causing this?
 

ethemartian

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Thanks swap the wires in this connector?
6122d887e9c44c0d21b9054a3843f041.jpg



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Not sure which one that is in the picture but you need to swap the connector that goes directly to the LED bulb since they might not be turning on due to reverse polarity
 

Mpickwith

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Not sure which one that is in the picture but you need to swap the connector that goes directly to the LED bulb since they might not be turning on due to reverse polarity

Thanks slapped across the face behind the dust cover just flipped the connector. In a hurry and forget the obvious


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ethemartian

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In my truck F37 is 5A - F38 is 10A...everyone says F38 but in the video he clearly is pulling F37...

Anyone else having the issue of switching from ON to AUTO or vice versa - their lights flashing left right like a cop car and then turning off until you restart the car? No error codes in the dash...

EDIT: I have tried them both and get the same issue on both F37 and F38.
 

Mpickwith

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5aa49cf6ca8ba636c61cb31283fac346.jpg


Not as bad as anticipated but the first time pulling that fascia is nerve wracking. Broke one of the clips the first time but the second piece coming off was much easier. Total time with a 1 year old and trying to figure out why the highs/lows wouldn’t work was a little over 2 hours. Definitely would be much less the next time. MoriMoto fogs will be here Monday as will my RC grille lights but now debating the grille lights


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Aykillah

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I went with F66 under the dash. It’s an “accessory” fuse so you won’t be pulling a load from something more important. No more issues.
 

ethemartian

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Looks like my Aukee H7 LED are not playing nice with the CANBUS system of the truck...anyone have similar experience? It is weird since i was running the same model Aukee but H11's with the stock housing.
 

Gs72174

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Looks like my Aukee H7 LED are not playing nice with the CANBUS system of the truck...anyone have similar experience? It is weird since i was running the same model Aukee but H11's with the stock housing.
Sorry to hear about your issues. What exactly is happening?
 

Grip750

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5aa49cf6ca8ba636c61cb31283fac346.jpg


Not as bad as anticipated but the first time pulling that fascia is nerve wracking. Broke one of the clips the first time but the second piece coming off was much easier. Total time with a 1 year old and trying to figure out why the highs/lows wouldn’t work was a little over 2 hours. Definitely would be much less the next time. MoriMoto fogs will be here Monday as will my RC grille lights but now debating the grille lights


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Looking great. By the way, do you need to get a converter with the led Morimoto Fogs?
 

Mpickwith

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Looking great. By the way, do you need to get a converter with the led Morimoto Fogs?

Thanks, as far as I know, there isn’t a converter needed. They should be arriving today if UPS doesn’t lag so I will let you know. I went with Mori opposed to OEM because OEM would need to be programmed. Also Headlight Revolution has a video online of the fog install and they don’t mention a converter


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ethemartian

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Sorry to hear about your issues. What exactly is happening?

I actually got it "fixed"...it would not want to turn off when i switched the deadlights to "off" and if you turn it back into Auto mode it would cycle left and right light on and off...

Anyone having similar problems as above go to your uconnect and lights and turn off the Daylight Running Lights option - this fixed those issues above and my LEDs are working properly in the Auto mode.
 

RAM Patriot

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F66 is being used by my dash cam


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When I ordered the AlphaRex PRO-Series Headlights, I noticed that they did not have any installation instructions posted on there website. So I contacted the Tech Support at AlphaRex. They told me to use the F66 fuse. Which is valid for the 4thGenRams but not the 5thGenRams. After he told me that he did not know which fuse to tap, he said that I could wire it to any 10 Amp - 20 Amp fuse that would come on with the starter.

When I saw that the fuse that was on the pigtail for the DRL's was a 15 AMP fuse I went with a 15-20 Amp fuse. I tested the fuse box with my Multi-Meter to figure out which one I could use that would only turn on when the truck was running. Most of the fuses had power all of the time. The only one that I could find was a F60 Fuse : ECM / PCM / ACT Short Running Valve.

Since this is a critical fuse I decided to use a fuse tap so that the tap was clean.
Our trucks use the Micro 2 Fuse
You can pick one up here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some pics of the install:
Ram Fuse Box Layout.jpg


RAM Fuse Box.jpg
 

Aykillah

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When I ordered the AlphaRex PRO-Series Headlights, I noticed that they did not have any installation instructions posted on there website. So I contacted the Tech Support at AlphaRex. They told me to use the F66 fuse. Which is valid for the 4thGenRams but not the 5thGenRams. After he told me that he did not know which fuse to tap, he said that I could wire it to any 10 Amp - 20 Amp fuse that would come on with the starter.

When I saw that the fuse that was on the pigtail for the DRL's was a 15 AMP fuse I went with a 15-20 Amp fuse. I tested the fuse box with my Multi-Meter to figure out which one I could use that would only turn on when the truck was running. Most of the fuses had power all of the time. The only one that I could find was a F60 Fuse : ECM / PCM / ACT Short Running Valve.

Since this is a critical fuse I decided to use a fuse tap so that the tap was clean.
Our trucks use the Micro 2 Fuse
You can pick one up here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some pics of the install:
Ram Fuse Box Layout.jpg


RAM Fuse Box.jpg
F66 is a valid fuse, it’s under the steering wheel but it’s not a fuse to a major component like how F60 is. F66 is for “Accessories” like the DRLs.
 

Mpickwith

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When I ran my fuse tap to F60 my truck would start and shut right off twice. I moved it from F60 and truck ran fine. I made sure in UConnect settings to enable DLR. I believe I ran my fuse tap to F38 since that’s what everyone said in the thread but haven’t seen my lights to ensure the DRL works


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RAM Patriot

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F66 is a valid fuse, it’s under the steering wheel but it’s not a fuse to a major component like how F60 is. F66 is for “Accessories” like the DRLs.
I did not want to go through the firewall for this installation ,wanted to keep all of the wires in the engine bay.

I agree that the F60 is critical and believe me was the only used as a last resort. That is why I used the fuse tap so that the install was clean.
(Also wanted to match the amperage, you can step the amps down but not up.)
 

busa2009

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Mine just got in. Let you know how it goes hopefully install them Sunday I didn’t get any instructions on the wiring though.
775b1bc9074e5a1af2751e04a92df5aa.jpg

718a36396f6af35a8994b0545e0088fe.jpg



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Moe1962

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Mine just got in. Let you know how it goes hopefully install them Sunday I didn’t get any instructions on the wiring though.
775b1bc9074e5a1af2751e04a92df5aa.jpg

718a36396f6af35a8994b0545e0088fe.jpg



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No instructions for the wiring with mine either. Once you stretch it out, it's pretty easy. One lead to the lower white wire on each light, the red and black to battery and the grey to your fuse tap. As a note, if you plan to go with LED's, I suggest you do that before installing the lights. Much easier and if you drop the LED inside the housing, most likely you will have to remove the light again to fish it out, ask me how I know that. LOL
 

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