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Alpharex Headlight Group Buy - Ends 04/30/20!

The harness is only if you want the DRLs to run without the headlight being on. Seems like a waste not to wire them. It’s very easy to do.
Well I went ahead and wired for DRL and all the lights. The lows, highs, turn signals, etc but the truck won’t keep running. It starts up and runs for a second and cuts off. What did I do now?
 
Well I went ahead and wired for DRL and all the lights. The lows, highs, turn signals, etc but the truck won’t keep running. It starts up and runs for a second and cuts off. What did I do now?

Mine did that in F60 fuse also I switch to I believe F38


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Well pulling it off F60 allowed the truck to start but using F38 triggered an error with the traction control. Pulled out the fuse link altogether and no issues starting and no traction control message. Just no DRL. Try it again tomorrow
 
So strange that everyone has different experiences with the fuses. Mine works perfect in in the F60 with a fuse tap. Has been discussed this may not be optimal, but definitely no codes or other issues with the truck so far.

As a side note I saw a truck with with the stock LEDs during the daylight yesterday. Crazy how dim the stock DRL is. I would 100% have gotten the OEM package if it would’ve been available on the lot but definitely made me happy with the ARex lights and how they look.
 
So strange that everyone has different experiences with the fuses. Mine works perfect in in the F60 with a fuse tap. Has been discussed this may not be optimal, but definitely no codes or other issues with the truck so far.

As a side note I saw a truck with with the stock LEDs during the daylight yesterday. Crazy how dim the stock DRL is. I would 100% have gotten the OEM package if it would’ve been available on the lot but definitely made me happy with the ARex lights and how they look.

Yeah I agree a lot of people were bashing the lights but I think they look better on my truck than the OEMs would and the light output is great with the LASFits I have in there.


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Yeah I agree a lot of people were bashing the lights but I think they look better on my truck than the OEMs would and the light output is great with the LASFits I have in there.


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Despite my not being able to figure out the DRL’s yet, I’ll take the Alpharex and the Lasfit LED’s over the stock halogens anytime.
 
Well pulling it off F60 allowed the truck to start but using F38 triggered an error with the traction control. Pulled out the fuse link altogether and no issues starting and no traction control message. Just no DRL. Try it again tomorrow
If you want you can run the tap to F66. It’s under the steering wheel so not sure if that would work for you. That’s where I did mine as all the fuses in the engine bay were giving me trouble or were unuseable.
 
If you want you can run the tap to F66. It’s under the steering wheel so not sure if that would work for you. That’s where I did mine as all the fuses in the engine bay were giving me trouble or were unuseable.
Looks like it’s gonna have to be F66. I tried all the other suggestions and keep getting issues like the truck not starting and when the truck does start I get multiple error messages like air bag, park sensors, traction control need to be serviced. Thanks for the advice.
 
Looks like it’s gonna have to be F66. I tried all the other suggestions and keep getting issues like the truck not starting and when the truck does start I get multiple error messages like air bag, park sensors, traction control need to be serviced. Thanks for the advice.
No problem. I had the same issues with mine. I’ll take some pics of where I ran my wire through the firewall and whatnot.
 
When I got mine installed I got all of the error messages also. Seems crazy but all I did was move the fuse to the in the fuse tap to the bottom slot and it fixed all of the errors. I’m tapped into F38. I’ll attach a picture to show what I’m talking about. The slot with the green circle is where I put the fuse, slot with red x gave me the error codes D6587CF9-22BD-44AB-A0CC-7109AD272782.jpeg
 
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So I left my grey wire where I had originally zip tied it to utilize the engine side fuse box. I used some 14g wire and added disconnects to all sides so that I could remove easily if need be. I found that the big grommet has a flap covering where the actual grommet is so you can see where I pulled it back to run my wire through. This one had the best accessibility and was large enough to accommodate the wire and the location is good to reach down to. 2-7mm bolts and some clips hold on the panel and you can unplug and set it aside so to speak. F66 is the bottom right 10amp fuse.
 

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When I got mine installed I got all of the error messages also. Seems crazy but all I did was move the fuse to the in the fuse tap to the bottom slot and it fixed all of the errors. I’m tapped into F38. I’ll attach a picture to show what I’m talking about. The slot with the green circle is where I put the fuse, slot with red x gave me the error codes View attachment 56251
Did you use reuse the 5amp fuse that’s originally in 38?
 
So I left my grey wire where I had originally zip tied it to utilize the engine side fuse box. I used some 14g wire and added disconnects to all sides so that I could remove easily if need be. I found that the big grommet has a flap covering where the actual bronzer is so you can see where I pulled it back to run my wire through. This one had the best accessibility and was large enough to accommodate the wire and the location is good to reach down to. 2-7mm bolts and some clips hold on the panel and you can unplug and set it aside so to speak. F66 is the bottom right 10amp fuse.
Thanks for all the help. I’m gonna try after lunch.
 
Finally went out to see the lights at night. I had to adjust them a lot higher as they lit up about 30 feet in front of me. Granted my driveway is sloped but is this about what you all have in terms of beam pattern?
 

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