PaulieWalnutz
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Yea was able to pull off with the other 2 cars that ram it over too
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What did you do to your Ram today???
- Thread starter 19BlkRam
- Start date
1) Put on a Diamondback HD cover - the only problem, I bought it used on Craigslist and I didn't realize that it didn't work with the multifunction tailgate because of the thick corner brackets (I think the newer DB covers for the Ram 1500 account for this)... I got around that by getting RightOn Bracket RAM Brackets (https://rightonbracket.com/product/ram-truck-bed-brackets/) to replace the stock corner brackets and got some 2" x 1/8" aluminum from Home Depot and drilled some holes to extend the guides for the locking bars to get around the thick/wide corner brackets. Still saved a few hundred on the cover in the end despite spending $90 on the brackets and a few dollars on hardware and a strip of aluminum. I bought and installed a gasket for the front of the bed as well.
2) Installed the Truxedo Expedition by Truck Luggage (https://truxedo.com/expedition-by-truck-luggage) - I have the bed utility group and couldn't use the clamps that came with the rack, I also wanted to be able to easily move the rack back and forth and to remove if needed without tools. I realized that they don't sell extra Mopar OEM tie downs for the bed rails and so I got some on amazon that were for a Tundra/Tacoma and they fit great. The tie-down loop got in the way so I cut them off and now I can easily slide the rack to the front or back of the bed along the rails and remove the whole thing in a few minutes without tools. It works a lot better than I anticipated. You can probably find a cheaper solution with generic t-nuts and such, but this works really well and so, no regrets and money well spent in my mind.
3) Bedrug. Since I have a cover I just placed it down without securing it to the spray-in liner with the velcro kit. It was nice having it while rolling around on my back to adjust the Diamondback cover. First Bedrug for me and I'm glad to have it.
Just wanted to share since I encountered a lot of unintended problems along the way and was able to find some workable solutions that I'm happy with- maybe it'll save someone some time or headaches.
2) Installed the Truxedo Expedition by Truck Luggage (https://truxedo.com/expedition-by-truck-luggage) - I have the bed utility group and couldn't use the clamps that came with the rack, I also wanted to be able to easily move the rack back and forth and to remove if needed without tools. I realized that they don't sell extra Mopar OEM tie downs for the bed rails and so I got some on amazon that were for a Tundra/Tacoma and they fit great. The tie-down loop got in the way so I cut them off and now I can easily slide the rack to the front or back of the bed along the rails and remove the whole thing in a few minutes without tools. It works a lot better than I anticipated. You can probably find a cheaper solution with generic t-nuts and such, but this works really well and so, no regrets and money well spent in my mind.
3) Bedrug. Since I have a cover I just placed it down without securing it to the spray-in liner with the velcro kit. It was nice having it while rolling around on my back to adjust the Diamondback cover. First Bedrug for me and I'm glad to have it.
Just wanted to share since I encountered a lot of unintended problems along the way and was able to find some workable solutions that I'm happy with- maybe it'll save someone some time or headaches.
obrien
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they do great job, known all around Austin Texas. 299 + tax
Grape_Ape
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Whoa I want that truxedo expedition
2lonestar9
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I got the Rebel wheels on my truck too, but have not done a leveling kit. I have some rubbing on the right front wheel. Did you happen to notice any rubbing before you leveled it?
‘19ramlveryeha
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Finished up my led strips in the bed, put the B2 resonator delete pipes on, and installed a seal around the tailgate gap.
For the lights I pulled constant power from just behind the connector for the rear fascia harness (from the wire that feeds the trailer connector), and ran it to a spdt switch mounted in the cover where the oem lights would go. Once it’s not so filthy under the truck I’ll run a wire from the factory overhead cargo light to the other side of my switch. Then I’ll have the option of having the lights off, manually on, or set to come on with the overhead light.
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Nice set up. Send the link please for the lights.
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HemiDude
Spends too much time on here
The site does only list to '19, but I figured there wouldn't likely be a major difference between the two, since I just have the plain 8.4, and I could always return it if it didn't work. I ran the cable along the inside of the console up to the front, and plug it in to the right side usb port (I use the left port for my carplay hookup, and they both work fine plugged in at the same time). The indexing delay occurs each time you plug it in, tho I hardly notice it. By the time I buckle up and plug my phone in, the player is ready to go.
Last edited:
MayhemMOORE
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AUTUNEER 60Inch LED Truck Bed Lights, 2PCS White Truck Bed LED Strip Light Kit, Waterproof Truck Bed Lighting Bar Switch Fuse Splitter Cable for RV SUV Vans Cargo Boats, Auto Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZGNDT...abc_GN0MYH4T2Q4SZVYVSDTB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These come with a little push-button switch, but I just cut it all off and wired the lights directly to the switch I used.
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Renegade3
Active Member
I've got rebel wheels on mine and don't have any rubbing at all, even at full lock
RickWaz
Well-Known Member
Got my new 3”x5” chrome and black flag decals in this afternoon. I’m curious to hear everyone’s opinions on placement. Leaning towards just above the ram decals on the doors but top of the front quarter panel is tempting me.
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My flag placement:
Smerberj
Well-Known Member
mlcarril
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Must be an older version. My diamondback cover actually uses the corner bracket for the Lock. Love the cover, you should be happy with it.
Upgraded my sound from the base six speaker system to something better. I managed to fit a Rockford Fosgate 750-1D and a RF R2-500X4, plus an AudioControl LC2i Pro, all under the front driver seat. My goal was to keep the new audio gear together, and with as short a run for electrical wiring as possible. Clearance is narrow, but still good at the lowest seat position. Total length of power wire is less than 7.5 feet; ground wires are about 6 inches. Only the speaker wire for the sub runs to the back, nothing mounted to the back wall (I need that for other things). Sub volume control knob and remote line run under the center console.
Removing the ANC module / bracket left a pocket area to conceal wiring under the amp locations, while also providing a 10mm frame stud on each side for the amplifier grounds. Front Speakers are REF-9633ix 6x9 & Kappa 300m 3.5 W/blockers at 2ohm for 125 watts, with 75 watts at 4ohm for the rear 96333ix’s. I used hi-level inputs front and rear to the R2-500X4 via a clipped iDatalink bCH3 bypass.
I originally ran an RCA line out from the R2-500X4 pass through to the sub amp. However, this caused some low feedback in the line (the RF amp was likely not designed for hi-input to low RCA output). So, I tapped the rear speaker lines to add the LC2i Pro to fix the issue (the Pro has a ground selectable circuit).
I transport gear in the cab when traveling so I did not want to install an under seat sub box that I would have to move or pull for trips. Instead I built a custom box for a Kicker 10” L7T to replace the folding center armrest. To make sure the box has the correct sized cubic footprint, I ended up having to relocate the entire rear seat group forward 1.35 inches at the frame mounts. I still need to steam heat and work out some leather wrinkles from the Katzkin covers, and I haven’t had a chance to fine-tune the sound system yet, but it is definitely improved.
I’ve nearly finished my silver interior trim delete.
For the life of me I can’t figure out why RAM would leave all that silver trim in a “Night Edition” truck.
Also reupholstered the sun visors to match the Katzkin seats (an absolute time consuming nightmare), after my failed airbag safety decal removal attempt.
Update: So I still had feedback using the hi-pass head unit output for the four 6x9’s when feeding directly to the RF amp. I think this might be based on the same issue some are writing about concerning the left front driver side speaker acting up when using apple car play. I swapped the front dash Kappa Perfect 3.5’s with References series. I originally bought all Kappa speakers, but could not get the 6x9’s Kappa’s to fit the doors properly (Kappa’s are very wide and deep). So now all of the speakers are Infinity Reference series. Since the Reference line requires less power, I ran the dash speakers directly from the head unit front speaker output using the BCH3 (just as others have suggested), and kept the rear output feeding the LC2i Pro.
From the LC2i I used the sub out for the low amp, and used the other output for the front and rear 6x9’s, selecting 2 channel mode on the RF. So the Sub, front, and rear speakers, all get the same signal from the rear output of the head unit. Technically eliminating radio controllable fade, aside form 3.5’s dash speakers vs. everything else.
Not something I wanted to do, I considered upgrading to the 6 channel AudioControl converter. However, what is odd is how well the LC2i balanced out the sound when only using the rear line input for everything amplified. Dialing in the front and rear output was much easier, and now no weird bass shortfall, feedback, or out of sync volume drop that I was having before. Apple Carplay still lowers all of the speakers when I use Siri, but now Siri only speaks through the front driver dash speaker, not the entire driver front side, and not at some crazy high volume as it did before. Everything is playing exactly as it should.
On an additional note, for those considering a four channel amp, the RF R2-500x4 I bought for the Kappa line is a lot of amp for the reference speakers. I have the gain set all the way down and it pushes the speakers hard and clean. The R2-300x4 would easily do the job for less.
Removing the ANC module / bracket left a pocket area to conceal wiring under the amp locations, while also providing a 10mm frame stud on each side for the amplifier grounds. Front Speakers are REF-9633ix 6x9 & Kappa 300m 3.5 W/blockers at 2ohm for 125 watts, with 75 watts at 4ohm for the rear 96333ix’s. I used hi-level inputs front and rear to the R2-500X4 via a clipped iDatalink bCH3 bypass.
I originally ran an RCA line out from the R2-500X4 pass through to the sub amp. However, this caused some low feedback in the line (the RF amp was likely not designed for hi-input to low RCA output). So, I tapped the rear speaker lines to add the LC2i Pro to fix the issue (the Pro has a ground selectable circuit).
I transport gear in the cab when traveling so I did not want to install an under seat sub box that I would have to move or pull for trips. Instead I built a custom box for a Kicker 10” L7T to replace the folding center armrest. To make sure the box has the correct sized cubic footprint, I ended up having to relocate the entire rear seat group forward 1.35 inches at the frame mounts. I still need to steam heat and work out some leather wrinkles from the Katzkin covers, and I haven’t had a chance to fine-tune the sound system yet, but it is definitely improved.
I’ve nearly finished my silver interior trim delete.
For the life of me I can’t figure out why RAM would leave all that silver trim in a “Night Edition” truck.
Also reupholstered the sun visors to match the Katzkin seats (an absolute time consuming nightmare), after my failed airbag safety decal removal attempt.
Update: So I still had feedback using the hi-pass head unit output for the four 6x9’s when feeding directly to the RF amp. I think this might be based on the same issue some are writing about concerning the left front driver side speaker acting up when using apple car play. I swapped the front dash Kappa Perfect 3.5’s with References series. I originally bought all Kappa speakers, but could not get the 6x9’s Kappa’s to fit the doors properly (Kappa’s are very wide and deep). So now all of the speakers are Infinity Reference series. Since the Reference line requires less power, I ran the dash speakers directly from the head unit front speaker output using the BCH3 (just as others have suggested), and kept the rear output feeding the LC2i Pro.
From the LC2i I used the sub out for the low amp, and used the other output for the front and rear 6x9’s, selecting 2 channel mode on the RF. So the Sub, front, and rear speakers, all get the same signal from the rear output of the head unit. Technically eliminating radio controllable fade, aside form 3.5’s dash speakers vs. everything else.
Not something I wanted to do, I considered upgrading to the 6 channel AudioControl converter. However, what is odd is how well the LC2i balanced out the sound when only using the rear line input for everything amplified. Dialing in the front and rear output was much easier, and now no weird bass shortfall, feedback, or out of sync volume drop that I was having before. Apple Carplay still lowers all of the speakers when I use Siri, but now Siri only speaks through the front driver dash speaker, not the entire driver front side, and not at some crazy high volume as it did before. Everything is playing exactly as it should.
On an additional note, for those considering a four channel amp, the RF R2-500x4 I bought for the Kappa line is a lot of amp for the reference speakers. I have the gain set all the way down and it pushes the speakers hard and clean. The R2-300x4 would easily do the job for less.
Last edited:
gzgg99
Active Member
Assuming no clearance issues with the original bolts? I was thinking of doing a 1” and 1.25” but didn’t want to cut the oem bolts.Added Bora 3/4” front & 1” rear, stock Rebel wheels, no stud cutting required. The exact look I was after. Pretty close to flush with fender flares.
Drumnut14
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No issues, Rebel wheels have pockets in hub so NO cutting!
Jako
Spends too much time on here
"For the life of me I can’t figure out why RAM would leave all that silver trim in a “Night Edition” truck."
Must be the same designer that put tan headliner and pillars in my billet silver ext and diesel gray interior.
OR marketing pushing an upgrade package as per 8.4 radio nav getting the glossy black bezel.
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Finally finished hard wiring the Blackvue dash cam and installing the Weather Tech mud guards and stone/bug deflector.
Driver's view of cam:
Bonus when I was done:
Driver's view of cam:
Bonus when I was done:
Last edited:
RcrYee
Member
Well was yesterday...but, got it lifted and new wheels/tires!
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