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What did you do to your Ram today???

Any tips on installing the sequential running board lights? I have a set in the garage, but waiting to install these, bed lights and tailgate light at the same time.

Also, do you have video of the sequential signal on the running boards?

I used a 18 gauge 4 wire sprinkler cable to run the lights to the back. See photo attached

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On the four 4 wire sprinkler cable. I used the white wire for ground, the blue wire for the white wire courtesy light from the running board, and the green wire for the sequential turn signal. I did not use the red wire. I left it there for any future running lights. I soldered and heat shrinked waterproof connectors on the ends of the four wire harness. I put the opposite side of the waterproof connectors on the running board wires. That way if the running board strip burned out it would be an easy switch. Just unplug the The connector and switch out the strip without having to re-run all the wire back to the rear of the truck. I connected everything where the bed and the cab meet.
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I ran the four wire sprinkler cable up and over the rear wheel Liners. There’s a small ring just before and after at the top of the wheel liners that I used to attach the wires to.

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I attached a trailer plug on the other end of the four wire sprinkler cable ( I attached the green wire from the sprinkler cable to the yellow wire of the trailer plug which is the left turn signal and then attach the green wire from the sprinkler cable to the green wire of the trailer plug for the passenger side which is the right turn signal. I attached the white wire to the ground of the trailer plug. ) I then plugged it into the Curtis wiring harness at the back of the truck. I tapped the blue wire from the sprinkler wire into the bed light plug.

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Wish I would have known about that, I would have attended. Where was the meeting location? Looks like a great turn.
We started at Pennington Field, did a 125 mile loop around DFW ending at Pennington Field.
 
I wish 3.92, but alas, bought off lot, 3.21. But the Red Beast sits 98.7% of the time, so def not a deal breaker. Getting 20-22 MPG on a highway trip with a Hemi works for da BOIRD, lol
Wow! As an LT those are like 61lbs compared to like 40lbs of the stock. Stocks are P rated, so weigh a lot less.

But like you said, it's a hemi! At one time I ran 67lb bfg KO2 ATs that were like 67lbs on a 4 cylinder jeep, LOL!!! With a 4 inch lift, no wonder the engine blew after 12 years (6 years on that set up).

I'm not sure if I want to do LT or P rated next. I also have 3.21 and wish I had 3.92, but it was on the lot.... some times it is what it is

Why did you go LT over P?

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Well, my AVS Aeroskin lasted 24 hours. Another high heat day today and two spots at the curve of the hood began to separate. I pulled it off to replace and add more new 3M tape. It scratched up pretty bad in the process of removing the original tape even though I placed it on a soft surface. $80 in the trash. I’m ordering a bolt on AVS to replace it. The Aeroskin may work great for most but if you live where it hits 115+ degrees I’d advise against it.


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I used/have AVS II Aeroskin, using 3M tape. Temps here 100-115 every summer, no issue.
 
Wat did I do today, AC hack, with clamp, temporary, do not have valve. Shows low driving temp (40 degrees afta hack), 42 degrees afta stopping after driving 5 miles, and idling temp (42 degrees), which waivered between 42 and 51 while idling.


hack AC largea.jpgtemp ac hack while driving.jpgtemp w ac hack.jpg
 
I used/have AVS II Aeroskin, using 3M tape. Temps here 100-115 every summer, no issue.

In that case my only assumption is that I got a defective one. Hood was free of any imperfections and followed prep to a T and still got separation occurring at the curves on either side at the top of the hood. The rest of it was sitting flush and square. I’ll have to debate giving the Aeroskin another shot or just stick with the tried and true bolt on.


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Well I was going to work on it.

On the drive back from my in-laws house yesterday, I found out as I’m parking my back up camera is not turning on. So I was going to troubleshoot it but instead I decided to add some accessories to my motorcycle instead.
 
You are 100% correct.
Simple math: (using round numbers)
Let’s say the original Limited cost him $60k out the door with taxes and everything.

Dealer gives him $45k on trade.

New Limited costs him $60k again

No matter how you paid for the first truck, whether you paid cash or still owe $50k it is still a net loss of $15k depreciation. (Of course there’s tax savings, interest costs, and a few other things that play a minor part one way or the other). But no matter how you pay for something the depreciation gets you.

I traded a 2019 bighorn and bought a 19 rebel 4 months later and ate 5 grande so he probably didn't eat much on it.
 
I have that TSB done already. This isn’t for the rear brake loan when backing up. My calipers made small squeaks as I hit the brakes, even if not pad to rotor contact. The TSB you’re referencing did solve my howling noise when backing up though.

I am having a squeak as well almost as if the pads are shot and its metal on metal. The dealer said the pads were good and did the rear brake moan TSB but that was not the problem as it was not while backing. This is whenever I'm driving and go to slow. It is really becoming quite embarrassing, new truck and this terrible noise. I guess I will call the dealer and see if they have any other solutions.
 
I've ordered these (921) bulbs for the 3rd Brake Light and (2) Cargo Lights. Fingers crossed there's no interference, as it's noted that they're "CANBUS error free design".

https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-Lumens-Reverse-Back-Up/dp/B072FHNZKW

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CANBUS is the cars network (cars run networked components now totally unlike the simple 12v they ran on years ago.) This means they are saying that the truck will not pop up an error message when it detects something wrong with the network. The issue folks have been having with LEDs is RF (radio frequency) interference where the LEDs emit a lot of RF noise that interferes with other RF-based things like keyless entry, etc. Very few LED makers make that claim as it requires more engineering, testing, etc.
 
I am having a squeak as well almost as if the pads are shot and its metal on metal. The dealer said the pads were good and did the rear brake moan TSB but that was not the problem as it was not while backing. This is whenever I'm driving and go to slow. It is really becoming quite embarrassing, new truck and this terrible noise. I guess I will call the dealer and see if they have any other solutions.
I saw Nuerobit helped you out in another thread. I haven't had them do anything to my front brakes yet. (Shockingly). I hope they get it figured out for you!
 
The sequential lights require the white wire which is the white courtesy lights to have power in order for the sequential function to operate smoothly. See video attached with the door open when the white courtesy lights ( white wire ) have power to them.


When the door is closed and there is no power to the courtesy lights ( white wire ) the sequential lights don’t function properly. See video attached


I don’t want to drive with my white courtesy lights on all the time so I just live with the sequential not working properly


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Thanks for the quick response. So, the "courtesy" lights are just the sequential lights when not being used as a turn signal? So, in order for the signal to function properly the courtesy lights have to be on the entire time the truck is on...day or night?
 
Thanks for the quick response. So, the "courtesy" lights are just the sequential lights when not being used as a turn signal? So, in order for the signal to function properly the courtesy lights have to be on the entire time the truck is on...day or night?

Yes that is correct. You will see by the two videos I posted. When the door is open and the white courtesy lights are turned on, the sequential turn signal operates smoothly. On the other video when the door is closed and the white lights are turned off the sequential turn signals do not operate properly. I tried different wiring configurations and the only other option I came up with is if you hook up the white wire to your running lights. The white lights will come on with your headlights and stay on and then the sequentials will operate properly. But I did not want to drive with my white Running board lights on. So I just live with the running sequential lights not operating properly. One more thing is the amber
Running board lights will come on when you apply the brakes


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