VLand Headlight Install

[rasko]

My issue is I'm getting a driver side blinker hyper flash and the dash saying bulb out.

I used the fuse wire it came with plugged it into f38 did you have this issue? Removed a 10A fuse and put the dual micro fuse plug in which has to 15 fuses in it

Did you find a fix for the hyperflash?

 

[302performancedelaware]

I don't remember a specific fuse being listed in the VLAND instructions back when I bought mine. They could have updated the instructions since then though. I haven't had any issues with the fuse location that I am using. I followed along with a Morimoto installation video and just replicated the same process that they did. Two different headlight brands but same procedure overall. I Linked that video below. Fast forward to 9:45 for that specific portion of the install.

Problem i see is that they say f38 but then pull the f37 5amp fuse for run/stop switch I used f38 dtcm/ active coolant temp valve and a few day later the fan died 🤷🏻‍♂️ not sure why but I probably won’t be putting these back in unless I find a better fuse location

 

[Biggiehorn]

Problem i see is that they say f38 but then pull the f37 5amp fuse for run/stop switch I used f38 dtcm/ active coolant temp valve and a few day later the fan died 🤷🏻‍♂️ not sure why but I probably won’t be putting these back in unless I find a better fuse location

I can’t speak for F38, but I ran it in F37 for over a year without any trouble whatsoever. F35 appears to be another option and it’s actually the location Retroshop recommends using if upgrading to OEM LED headlights. After I made the switch too OEM, I swapped over to F35 with Retroshop’s adapter harness and that also has worked for me without issue.

 

[KAP705]

Well, dunno if this thread is still active but I installed the VLANDs, and then I put my halogens back on 😒. Followed the resources on this forum, everything went smooth and seamless, they worked fine. Used their harness, F38 fuse, put the old 10A fuse into the splitter with their 15A next to it, all good. I just didn’t like them. The light throw/spread is not nearly as good esp at night, especially the brights IMHO, and they look better in the pictures than in real life also IMHO. Looked like I had some Chinese knockoff lights on my truck, which is what they are.

Also I dunno if this is how they work or I did something wrong (I don’t think I did) but when I had the light switch set to “OFF” and the DRL option set to “OFF” the VLAND DRL’s would remain on no matter what, which I didn’t like or want so.

I guess if you want an OEM look you’ll have to pay OEM prices 🤷🏼‍♂️. The good news is I learned how to take the front end off the truck pretty quickly so I guess there’s that.

 

[DusterJoe]

For those with the hyper flash issue do you have the side marker harness unplugged as per VLand's instructions? If so this is likely where the BCM thinks that a bulb is out. Might be possible to have a harness made with a small 126 bulb inside the fender and see is that fixes the issue.

DusterJoe