VLand Headlight Install

[Biggiehorn]

Hey can you send me a link to the wires / fuse you need to get for the drls etc? Retro shop wants $175 for adapters

All necessary wiring comes with the VLAND headlights for installation. I'm not sure if you are asking for this wiring with the intention of using it with factory LED headlights, but I'm almost certain it would not work. I would buy harnesses such as RetroShop like you mentioned. The cost will be well worth the trouble free swap.

 

[splittinghunter]

thanks! yeah congrats, u wont regret it.

Use the video they sent me a few posts up^ I’ve done a lot to cars, but didn’t choose to install them myself as I’ve never done electric work; it took them about 5-6 hrs.

How did you adjust the beam for the lights?

 

[Biggiehorn]

How did you adjust the beam for the lights?

I literally just helped someone that had this same question earlier tonight so I already had this photo handy. See in red below.. just don’t overadjust the screws. It is possible to overadjust and damage. Do it in very small increments and check your beam pattern.

 

[jbarker83]

All necessary wiring comes with the VLAND headlights for installation. I'm not sure if you are asking for this wiring with the intention of using it with factory LED headlights, but I'm almost certain it would not work. I would buy harnesses such as RetroShop like you mentioned. The cost will be well worth the trouble free swap.

My issue is I'm getting a driver side blinker hyper flash and the dash saying bulb out.

I used the fuse wire it came with plugged it into f38 did you have this issue? Removed a 10A fuse and put the dual micro fuse plug in which has to 15 fuses in it

 

[Biggiehorn]

My issue is I'm getting a driver side blinker hyper flash and the dash saying bulb out.

I used the fuse wire it came with plugged it into f38 did you have this issue? Removed a 10A fuse and put the dual micro fuse plug in which has to 15 fuses in it

I haven't had any issues. I think another member in here did have something similar occur, but not sure what the root cause of the issue was to be honest.

 

[22ram1500mi]

I'm running into an issue installing these in my 2022 Ram 1500 (with stock halogens). It appears that the side marker harness doesn't match up unfortunately and attempting to get details from VLAND directly is close to impossible.

 

[22ram1500mi]

Instead of sitting around hoping for a response from VLAND through Whatsapp since that's what their livechat requires... I tested the headlights out with just the main harness and DRL connection hooked up and everything worked as it should. Not sure what this extra connection is for but it appears that it's not needed and neither is the stock side marker connector. Kind of weird but oh well it might just be a 2022+ thing.

EDIT: Just noticed from the image posted a few posts back that it's used for the LED Reflective version. I guess that answers it. Thanks JBowman for posting that... wish it came in the package.

 

[Biggiehorn]

Instead of sitting around hoping for a response from VLAND through Whatsapp since that's what their livechat requires... I tested the headlights out with just the main harness and DRL connection hooked up and everything worked as it should. Not sure what this extra connection is for but it appears that it's not needed and neither is the stock side marker connector. Kind of weird but oh well it might just be a 2022+ thing.

EDIT: Just noticed from the image posted a few posts back that it's used for the LED Reflective version. I guess that answers it. Thanks JBowman for posting that... wish it came in the package.

Glad you got it working. I have the reflector version and the side marker harnesses from my truck were left unplugged as well. I just taped them up with electrical tape. There was no connector from the VLAND headlight that went to these. I wish this was defined in the instructions but it isn’t at alll. Since the VLAND are all-in-one units, the main headlight harness powers the entire light (excluding the DRLs) so the side marker harnesses from the truck are unused. I believe the additional connector on the harness you have pictured is only required if swapping from OEM LEDs to the VLAND LED lights. I believe it plugs in line with the included adapter harness. Not positive on that though.

 

[22ram1500mi]

Glad you got it working. I have the reflector version and the side marker harnesses from my truck were left unplugged as well. I just taped them up with electrical tape. There was no connector from the VLAND headlight that went to these. I wish this was defined in the instructions but it isn’t at alll. Since the VLAND are all-in-one units, the main headlight harness powers the entire light (excluding the DRLs) so the side marker harnesses from the truck are unused. I believe the additional connector on the harness you have pictured is only required if swapping from OEM LEDs to the VLAND LED lights. I believe it plugs in line with the included adapter harness. Not positive on that though.

Yeah definitely agree... if there was the image you shared within the instructions I would have figured this out immediately instead of midway through the install had to stop and try and figure out what to do with this connector. It also wasn't clear what the additional harness connectors were that VLAND provided with the headlights as well. Like you said I just moved the side marker plug on the trucks harness off to the side. Was definitely worried for a moment I got the wrong headlights or there was a compatibility issue.

 

[Kewlone2gq]

My issue is I'm getting a driver side blinker hyper flash and the dash saying bulb out.

I used the fuse wire it came with plugged it into f38 did you have this issue? Removed a 10A fuse and put the dual micro fuse plug in which has to 15 fuses in it

Hello. I just got a set of these. They seem to work fine, but when at a long light is when I experienced the hyper flash. Did you ever resolve your issue?

 

[KittenMittons]

I just installed the VLAND Reflector Type lights two weeks ago. Go with the spot noted below. You’ll have zero issues. I believe it is F37 if memory serves but will confirm.

Hey, I just installed the VLAND headlights tonight, and when I remove the fuse from F38 (the spot in the instructions as well as from this video) and connect the DRL fuse that came with the headlights, I get a "SERV 4WD" error when I start up the truck. If i place the regular 10 amp fuse back into f38, the error goes away. according to this F38 is "Drive Train Controller Module (DTCM) / Active Cooling Temperature Valve"

is there an issue with the harness they sent me or should I be using a different spot in the fuse box?

 

[RAM Patriot]

Hey, I just installed the VLAND headlights tonight, and when I remove the fuse from F38 (the spot in the instructions as well as from this video) and connect the DRL fuse that came with the headlights, I get a "SERV 4WD" error when I start up the truck. If i place the regular 10 amp fuse back into f38, the error goes away. according to this F38 is "Drive Train Controller Module (DTCM) / Active Cooling Temperature Valve"

is there an issue with the harness they sent me or should I be using a different spot in the fuse box?

I used the F60 fuse.

This fuse works with the ignition switch. Most of the fuses have power all of the time. The F60 Fuse : ECM / PCM / ACT Short Running Valve.

Since this is a critical fuse I decided to use a fuse tap so that the tap was clean.
Our trucks use the Micro 2 Fuse
You can pick one up here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some pics of the install:

 

[KittenMittons]

I used the F60 fuse.

This fuse works with the ignition switch. Most of the fuses have power all of the time. The F60 Fuse : ECM / PCM / ACT Short Running Valve.

Since this is a critical fuse I decided to use a fuse tap so that the tap was clean.
Our trucks use the Micro 2 Fuse
You can pick one up here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some pics of the install:

Thanks for the tip, I'll pick one of those up and try it with the F60 fuse. Appreciate it!

 

[Scram1500]

Make sure the tap is installed correctly. There is a hot and cold side to the fuse socket which wont matter to a fuse but will make a difference with a fuse tap

 

[RAM Patriot]

Make sure the tap is installed correctly. There is a hot and cold side to the fuse socket which wont matter to a fuse but will make a difference with a fuse tap

 

[Biggiehorn]

Also like indicated just above, make sure you installed the fuse you removed into the new tap with it. Only having one fuse in the fuse tap can also cause issues. Some being intermittent, others being constant. I ran mine in F37 for a little over a year without any issue.

With my OEM LED headlights, I'm using F35 now, and that also appears to be a good source as well. Only reason I went with F35 over F37 this time is because that is what Jeremy from Retroshop recommended using with his adapter harnesses for the OEM headlight swap.

 

[silver billet]

I'm running a fuse tap for my lights (morimoto) as well, but not 100% happy with the setup. That's because the DRL's are powered immediately when the ignition is powered on, before the engine "catches". The result being that the DRLs flick while the engine is turning over.

I forget which fuse number I'm using, but I'm wondering if one of the other fuses works better for this, maybe it's a delayed power which only turns on 5 seconds or so after ignition... or maybe even one that was meant for factory DRLs etc?

 

[KittenMittons]

Appreciate the suggestions guys. I tried F60 with the included adapter from VLAND and it wouldn't even let me start the truck, and the parking brake was stuck on, so I'm guessing it just doesn't like the adapter that was inculded. I ordered the tap from amazon and I'll update once I get it installed

 

[RAM Patriot]

My DRL's had an inline 15 Amp fuse. That is the reason that I used the F60 Fuse tap, you can step down from 20 Amp to 15 Amp but you cannot step up the amperage

F35 is putting out 10 Amp and F37 is putting out 5 Amp so your DRL's might be dimmer or flicker if they require more amperage.

 

[KittenMittons]

Just an update, the adapter from Amazon worked perfectly, plugged it into F38, no more warnings on the dash and DRLs working as they should. Thanks for the help!