Towing the new camper

[Nsleone]

Why the jump to a 3500 instead of 2500? Just out of curiosity.

Also, that's interesting the fresh water is behind the axle! My black/gray tanks are back there, but fresh is waaaay up front (granted, my trailer is only 22 ft long, lol).

A limited 2500 crew cab short bed Cummins has a payload around 1900 pounds thanks to its 10,000gvwr limit. The 3500 in the same configuration bumps up to I believe 11,800 on GVWR so you get nearly double the payload, at a slight sacrifice in ride quality

 

[PurpleRT]

For when he eventually upgrades to a 5th wheel lol. You know how it goes.. gets bigger truck then you gotta get bigger camper.


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[SnowBlaZR2]

Why the jump to a 3500 instead of 2500? Just out of curiosity.

Also, that's interesting the fresh water is behind the axle! My black/gray tanks are back there, but fresh is waaaay up front (granted, my trailer is only 22 ft long, lol).

Future proofing and payload.

I don't think we'll end up getting a bigger camper, but who knows what might come out.

Also, I want the Cummins. If I was going to stick to the 6.4, I'd probably be OK with a 2500, but going with the diesel eats into the payload and I'd probably end up with only a couple hundred lbs more than I have now.

 

[Nsleone]

Future proofing and payload.

I don't think we'll end up getting a bigger camper, but who knows what might come out.

Also, I want the Cummins. If I was going to stick to the 6.4, I'd probably be OK with a 2500, but going with the diesel eats into the payload and I'd probably end up with only a couple hundred lbs more than I have now.

Thoughts on the mega cab? It’s GVWR is even higher at 12,300! And if you’re spending 95 what’s a extra couple grand

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Thoughts on the mega cab? It’s GVWR is even higher at 12,300! And if you’re spending 95 what’s a extra couple grand

Honestly, I don't like the looks of it. If I had kids to put back there, I'd probably go for it, but two small dogs can suck it up with a little less leg room.

 

[HEMIJAKE]

Just some thoughts from my experience. I'm having similar issues that you are I believe. My tongue weight is really low. Like 450 -480 pounds (sticker) on a ~5,000 lb camper. It feels too balanced to me. Almost like the axles should be back a couple feet in my case. I think they do it that way so they can be pulled with heavy suv's with low tongue weight. All my tanks are in the rear too. Anyway, I put a generator rack on the tongue and that helps, but I'm not always taking my generator either. Usually just to the race track where I have no power. That might be something to look into. If I'm not taking my genny, they I throw coolers or whatever else is somewhat heavy on it.

I have airbags, but with such little tongue weight, I have found them to be of little help. I think my ride got worse with more air. I use them mainly just for heavy bed loads now. Otherwise they are just set at the minimum 5 psi or whatever.

I'm really hoping heavier tires will help fix both our scenarios. Getting e rated tires switched over on Friday. Sadly, were done for the season so I might not have much time to try them out. I'm going to hook it up one last time on the way to put it away, hopefully this weekend, and report back.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Just some thoughts from my experience. I'm having similar issues that you are I believe. My tongue weight is really low. Like 450 -480 pounds (sticker) on a ~5,000 lb camper. It feels too balanced to me. Almost like the axles should be back a couple feet in my case. I think they do it that way so they can be pulled with heavy suv's with low tongue weight. All my tanks are in the rear too. Anyway, I put a generator rack on the tongue and that helps, but I'm not always taking my generator either. Usually just to the race track where I have no power. That might be something to look into. If I'm not taking my genny, they I throw coolers or whatever else is somewhat heavy on it.

I have airbags, but with such little tongue weight, I have found them to be of little help. I think my ride got worse with more air. I use them mainly just for heavy bed loads now. Otherwise they are just set at the minimum 5 psi or whatever.

I'm really hoping heavier tires will help fix both our scenarios. Getting e rated tires switched over on Friday. Sadly, were done for the season so I might not have much time to try them out. I'm going to hook it up one last time on the way to put it away, hopefully this weekend, and report back.

View attachment 141518

I'll take a look at the generator racks. Would be better than putting it inside or in rear storage. I have a Pelican case strapped to the trailer tongue now that is full of tools and hardware. That might get in the way. My LP tanks are also nested into the trailer, so would have to be able to remove those still.

Tires go on this afternoon and we'll be towing again this weekend. I'm not sad about the excuse to get tires, bags, and a Hellwig sway bar.

 

[HEMIJAKE]

I'll take a look at the generator racks. Would be better than putting it inside or in rear storage. I have a Pelican case strapped to the trailer tongue now that is full of tools and hardware. That might get in the way. My LP tanks are also nested into the trailer, so would have to be able to remove those still.

Tires go on this afternoon and we'll be towing again this weekend. I'm not sad about the excuse to get tires, bags, and a Hellwig sway bar.

I haven't given much thought to a rear bar, but that might help too. I may look that direction after tires if I'm not satisfied. The rack is nice, but a little pricey. I think it was like 300 on etrailer or so, but I'm glad I did it. And there's a lot of adjustment to it to fit your needs, it's basically universal.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

I haven't given much thought to a rear bar, but that might help too. I may look that direction after tires if I'm not satisfied. The rack is nice, but a little pricey. I think it was like 300 on etrailer or so, but I'm glad I did it. And there's a lot of adjustment to it to fit your needs, it's basically universal.

This is what I'm working with.



Maybe it's just me, but looks like the curve of the bars on the generator rack might interfere with the case and/or the cover where the LP tanks are mounted.

Also don't want to mount it top high. My wife will beat my *** if anything covers up the front window in the camper.

 

[HEMIJAKE]

This is what I'm working with.

View attachment 141535

Maybe it's just me, but looks like the curve of the bars on the generator rack might interfere with the case and/or the cover where the LP tanks are mounted.

Also don't want to mount it top high. My wife will beat my *** if anything covers up the front window in the camper.

Yeah that might not work in your case then. We have a window there too, but it's over our bed and the blind is very seldom up. I didn't realize your lp was mounted inboard either.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Yeah that might not work in your case then. We have a window there too, but it's over our bed and the blind is very seldom up. I didn't realize your lp was mounted inboard either.

Yep. We love the camper, but some of the unique qualities of it mean we have to get a little creative where others may not have to worry about it.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

New tires are on. Driving around the city, they feel great. Honestly couldn't really tell much difference between these and the stock tires.



Tire shop set them at 55 psi. Calculator says they should be at 48 psi. I think I'm going to leave them where they are to tow, and then do the chalk test when I can.

 

[Rebelguy2020]

New tires are on. Driving around the city, they feel great. Honestly couldn't really tell much difference between these and the stock tires.

View attachment 141605

Tire shop set them at 55 psi. Calculator says they should be at 48 psi. I think I'm going to leave them where they are to tow, and then do the chalk test when I can.

View attachment 141606

Are you sure you have the numbers right? I have never seen a “P” rated 4 ply tire that has a higher payload than a “E” rated 10 ply tire, or course I am talking about the identical size tires to compare.

The usual markings on tires for a 4 ply tire is max air pressure of 45 psi and for a 10 ply tire is max air pressure of 80 psi.

The tire specs of my Rebel, which has the LT 10 ply E rated tires standard, it says to put 45 psi rear and 55 psi front, I keep the pressure at 55 psi for all tires, I add more rear pressure if carrying a heavy load in the bed or towing a heavy trailer, the tire label is 80 psi max.

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Are you sure you have the numbers right? I have never seen a “P” rated 4 ply tire that has a higher payload than a “E” rated 10 ply tire, or course I am talking about the identical size tires to compare.

The usual markings on tires for a 4 ply tire is max air pressure of 45 psi and for a 10 ply tire is max air pressure of 80 psi.

The tire specs of my Rebel, which has the LT 10 ply E rated tires standard, it says to put 45 psi rear and 55 psi front, I keep the pressure at 55 psi for all tires, I add more rear pressure if carrying a heavy load in the bed or towing a heavy trailer, the tire label is 80 psi max.

I'll start by saying that I'm not an expert on tires by any means. Just know what I know from research and towing.

The Coopers have a higher load rating at max pressure than the Bridgestones. The stock tires were inflated to about 90% of max, while the Coopers are only at about 70% of max.

You can look at tire pressure charts, or there's a formula. Even better, I just used someone else's calculator.

My goal with this is to try to find the right pressure to use unloaded for ride comfort and loaded for stability, and wear for both.

Not saying the calculator is where I'll end up, but it does give me somewhere to start.

 

[Rebelguy2020]

I'll start by saying that I'm not an expert on tires by any means. Just know what I know from research and towing.

The Coopers have a higher load rating at max pressure than the Bridgestones. The stock tires were inflated to about 90% of max, while the Coopers are only at about 70% of max.

You can look at tire pressure charts, or there's a formula. Even better, I just used someone else's calculator.

My goal with this is to try to find the right pressure to use unloaded for ride comfort and loaded for stability, and wear for both.

Not saying the calculator is where I'll end up, but it does give me somewhere to start.

Ok that kind of makes sense, I looked on my OEM Duratrac tires, 3640lbs @ 80psi, 7280 lbs for the rear axle or 14560 lbs for both axle, so basically these tires are overkill for the capacity of my truck, the load capacity sticker (picture in the previous post) of my truck shows the max load for the rear axle is 4100 lbs. at 45 psi, and 3900 lbs for the front axle at 55 psi. It’s kind of weird that the front tire air pressure is higher and the max load is lower. I would think that the rear tire pressure would be higher at the maximum load capacity but the sticker shows different, to me that does not make sense.

So in reality, if I go by the truck sticker, I should not have to raise the rear tire air pressure when I load the bed or tow a heavy trailer.

The new Coopers you have are rated for 3085 lbs @ 80 psi.

I am curious to see what your sticker load rating is with the OEM tires.

I remember many years ago Ford pickups were blowing Firestone tires, Ford was blaming Firestone but Firestone was blaming Ford because of the under inflated tires, tire pressures on the sticker of the truck was too low for those tires. That’s why I feel more comfortable keeping a minimum of 55 psi in all my tires when unloaded. I will repeat again, my truck sticker says 45 psi for the rear wheels (for max load 4100 lbs) but I find that low for a tire that is capable of 80 psi.

 

[Nsleone]

Ok that kind of makes sense, I looked on my OEM Duratrac tires, 3640lbs @ 80psi, 7280 lbs for the rear axle or 14560 lbs for both axle, so basically these tires are overkill for the capacity of my truck, the load capacity sticker (picture in the previous post) of my truck shows the max load for the rear axle is 4100 lbs. at 45 psi, and 3900 lbs for the front axle at 55 psi. It’s kind of weird that the front tire air pressure is higher and the max load is lower. I would think that the rear tire pressure would be higher at the maximum load capacity but the sticker shows different, to me that does not make sense.

So in reality, if I go by the truck sticker, I should not have to raise the rear tire air pressure when I load the bed or tow a heavy trailer.

The new Coopers you have are rated for 3085 lbs @ 80 psi.

I am curious to see what your sticker load rating is with the OEM tires.

I remember many years ago Ford pickups were blowing Firestone tires, Ford was blaming Firestone but Firestone was blaming Ford because of the under inflated tires, tire pressures on the sticker of the truck was too low for those tires. That’s why I feel more comfortable keeping a minimum of 55 psi in all my tires when unloaded. I will repeat again, my truck sticker says 45 psi for the rear wheels (for max load 4100 lbs) but I find that low for a tire that is capable of 80 psi.

Yeah that’s a little odd, at least to me too. I’m curious, what pressures are printed on your trucks yellow payload sticker? Are they the same?

 

[SnowBlaZR2]

Ok that kind of makes sense, I looked on my OEM Duratrac tires, 3640lbs @ 80psi, 7280 lbs for the rear axle or 14560 lbs for both axle, so basically these tires are overkill for the capacity of my truck, the load capacity sticker (picture in the previous post) of my truck shows the max load for the rear axle is 4100 lbs. at 45 psi, and 3900 lbs for the front axle at 55 psi. It’s kind of weird that the front tire air pressure is higher and the max load is lower. I would think that the rear tire pressure would be higher at the maximum load capacity but the sticker shows different, to me that does not make sense.

So in reality, if I go by the truck sticker, I should not have to raise the rear tire air pressure when I load the bed or tow a heavy trailer.

The new Coopers you have are rated for 3085 lbs @ 80 psi.

I am curious to see what your sticker load rating is with the OEM tires.

I remember many years ago Ford pickups were blowing Firestone tires, Ford was blaming Firestone but Firestone was blaming Ford because of the under inflated tires, tire pressures on the sticker of the truck was too low for those tires. That’s why I feel more comfortable keeping a minimum of 55 psi in all my tires when unloaded. I will repeat again, my truck sticker says 45 psi for the rear wheels (for max load 4100 lbs) but I find that low for a tire that is capable of 80 psi.

So, my sticker says 39 psi for the front and rear. My understanding is that recommended tire pressure from the factory is more about how the truck rides and fuel economy than load. If my math is correct, 43 psi front and 45 psi rear would be enough to cover your axle limits with those tires.

 

[Rebelguy2020]

Yeah that’s a little odd, at least to me too. I’m curious, what pressures are printed on your trucks yellow payload sticker? Are they the same?

Here are my stickers

 

[mysticbus]

How's the road noise with and without the trailer on those KO2s? Would be great if tires and bags did the trick. We might still move up to a 3500 when there is another update, but I love my truck and would rather keep it while I can.

Would also love to hear your thoughts on the Ember. That's one that we were looking at when they were first released.

I don't really notice any roadnoise with the K02's.

 

[Nsleone]

Here are my stickers

Maybe they have it that way due to the truck being heavier up front? With nothing in it and not towing of course. Otherwise that just seems odd