What's new
By:
5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

side mirror removal to replace mirror cap

50% Success rate for me also! However, I must say... First one went off without issues. Went very slow and gentle using a large plastic trim tool pictured below. Second one got confident and try and go fast and broke it. The key is patience in my opinion.

I inserted the flat side from the area that instructions indicate (area closest to the car) and pry away with the tool and my hand BEHIND the tool ever so slowly until I heard the first click/clank, announcing the first tab had come loose. it just came loose easy after that.

The second one like. mentioned, got excited and confident and made a $100.00 mistake!

Good luck guys!
20157
 
All said and done... I would still do it again if asked! REALLY like the look vs the chrome.
20167
 
19Jake said:
Swapped a few mirrors & caps...never broke one yet (y)View attachment 20124
Click to expand...

Everyone... this is the trick. I swapped mine out tonight and it went very smoothly.

I heated up the mirror thoroughly with a hair dryer for a good 10 minutes. Then I applied this exact suction cup, just as is pictured by 19Jake. Simply pull. It takes a few jerks, each of increasing power. Then pop! Comes right off. I’ll post pictures soon of how much better my truck looks with matching Pearl Ivory caps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow....great solution!
2 for 2 with the suction cup. Simple cheap solution.
finally got the painted covers on after 6 months.
 
Bingo, I think we've stumbled upon the best way to do this. I was able to replace both mirror caps without breaking any mirrors. That dent tool suction cup is amazing!

Tips:
  • Heat the mirror with a blow dryer for a few minutes or more if you're in a colder climate. (I was able to change out both in Florida at ~ 70°F without heating it but forgot to re-seat the wiring connectors and had to re-do one the next day. It was MUCH easier after heating the mirror to remove it. The suction cup pulled off several times without heating. You'll hear small clicks/snaps from behind the mirror as you pull over and over, that's the clips letting go one by one.)
  • Remove that screw from the mirror cap, a Torx T20 head worked perfectly for me
  • The clips on the mirror cap are all plastic, the only way I could get some of them off was to bend them far enough where they creased/broke
  • Pull up and out to remove the mirror cap
  • When installing the new mirror cap, align the tab in the bottom corner on the back of the housing first
  • Make sure you re-install the screw
  • Ensure you re-seat the connectors into the clips on the back of the mirror before re-installing it.
  • Not sure if the spade connector wiring matters, but I kept the black wire closest to the truck on both mirrors and the black with blue stripe further from the truck.
  • When re-seating the mirror, make sure to push all around in the center, even when I thought I’d successfully re-attached it, there was still one more click I heard after ensuring it was on there good
 
Last edited:
Getting my suction cup tomorrow to give this a go.

Are you guys letting the mirror dangle by the wiring when you're removing/installing the new cap, or disconnecting the mirror completely?
 
392DCGC said:
Getting my suction cup tomorrow to give this a go.

Are you guys letting the mirror dangle by the wiring when you're removing/installing the new cap, or disconnecting the mirror completely?
Click to expand...
I removed completely. Simple re-connection of 2 snaps and 2 push connectors.
 
BOOM! SON!! Same here. Suction cup worked as advertised lol! You can go to your local Walmart and buy this suction cup in the link it was about $8.50 it’s a bit scary how hard you have to pull but it works!

Thanks to all the awesome people in this community couldn’t have done it without your help. Here’s some pictures and the link

3A69D449-9E36-4C95-BF36-268DE3FD44FB.jpeg6E00F844-3D47-437F-8830-7D79260E9595.jpeg666490E8-4A31-4127-8A3B-212D92682852.jpegA670811F-A1E6-4570-82AF-74E9CF3A85CD.jpeg191F5F21-44C1-429D-B182-9A038895006B.jpeg

Bondo Double Handle Locking Suction Cup Dent Puller - Walmart.com

Free 2-day shipping on qualified orders over $35. Buy Bondo Double Handle Locking Suction Cup Dent Puller at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
 
Another suction cup success story here! Though I forgot to reinstall the Torx screw for the driver side cover... don't think I'm going to risk removing the mirror again to do so because it's a bit overkill? Clips seem plenty tight.

Be sure to check the auto-dimming mirror function (I've found parked forwards in a garage during the day with the door open behind you will activate the dimming), blind spot LED (lights will very briefly self-check when ignition is set to RUN - engine not required), and defrost heat (just feel them after a few minutes) for your mirrors after reconnecting them. Otherwise the instructions posted by Trix are spot on.

trixdesigns said:
  • Not sure if the spade connector wiring matters, but I kept the black wire closest to the truck on both mirrors and the black with blue stripe further from the truck.
Click to expand...
I checked my passenger mirror by pulling the corner back and shining a light in... only after I already removed my driver side mirror (which caused the wires to disconnect, stupid me). On my passenger mirror, the blue wire was nearest the truck and black wire on the outside. This is how I decided to reconnect both mirrors. Hard to say if it's correct since the connection could be oriented the same on both sides (meaning the driver side could need the blue wire on the outside and black on the inside to mirror the passenger side). Either way, how I connected it seems to be working, so maybe it doesn't matter.
 
Last edited:
392DCGC said:
Another suction cup success story here! Though I forgot to reinstall the Torx screw for the driver side cover... don't think I'm going to risk removing the mirror again to do so because it's a bit overkill? Clips seem plenty tight.

Be sure to check the auto-dimming mirror function (I've found parked forwards in a garage during the day with the door open behind you will activate the dimming), blind spot LED (lights will very briefly self-check when ignition is set to RUN - engine not required), and defrost heat (just feel them after a few minutes) for your mirrors after reconnecting them. Otherwise the instructions posted by Trix are spot on.


I checked my passenger mirror by pulling the corner back and shining a light in... only after I already removed my driver side mirror (which caused the wires to disconnect, stupid me). On my passenger mirror, the blue wire was nearest the truck and black wire on the outside. This is how I decided to reconnect both mirrors. Hard to say if it's correct since the connection could be oriented the same on both sides (meaning the driver side could need the blue wire on the outside and black on the inside to mirror the passenger side). Either way, how I connected it seems to be working, so maybe it doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

Thanks.. if anyone else can confirm the wiring on both sides, that'd be great!
When I pulled mine, both of the spade connectors on both sides came undone before I could get a look at them. I found the photo in post #72 on this thread showing the passenger mirror with the black on the inside / striped on the outside. I'm not going to pull mine back off again, but hopefully someone who hasn't taken the plunge yet can provide us their wiring before they remove the mirrors.
 
trixdesigns said:
Thanks.. if anyone else can confirm the wiring on both sides, that'd be great!
When I pulled mine, both of the spade connectors on both sides came undone before I could get a look at them. I found the photo in post #72 on this thread showing the passenger mirror with the black on the inside / striped on the outside. I'm not going to pull mine back off again, but hopefully someone who hasn't taken the plunge yet can provide us their wiring before they remove the mirrors.
Click to expand...
If you've tested all your mirror functions like I mentioned, then I think it's safe to say the spade wiring doesn't seem to matter.
 
I successfully swapped my chrome caps for body color today using the above suction cup tool. Also used my heat gun on low for about 5 min. to warm things up beforehand even though it was about 70F.
It does take an absurd amount of force to pop the mirrors off!
D43EF12D-B657-40EA-A2B3-9762246026AF.jpeg4192910B-199C-4482-B232-E940D5A7E30E.jpeg
 
Another (Suction Cup) success. Ditto to everything said above especially the part about the force required to get the mirror out. For $65 one of the best mods you can domirror cap.jpg
 
Anyone know where I can get black tow mirror caps? Need to replace my chrome ones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Site Vendors

https://www.jasonlewisautomotive.com/

Members online

Total: 120 (members: 2, guests: 118)
Back
Top