5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

RamBox warped and misaligned

Question for everyone....if you special order a 2019 RAM 1500 with the RAMBOX....do you have to take delivery of it when it arrives at the dealer if the RAMBOX lid is misaligned? Has anyone refused to take delivery of and if so...what was the dealers reaction?
 
Question for everyone....if you special order a 2019 RAM 1500 with the RAMBOX....do you have to take delivery of it when it arrives at the dealer if the RAMBOX lid is misaligned? Has anyone refused to take delivery of and if so...what was the dealers reaction?
I refused the first vehicle delivered, however this was due to my options not being correct. Dealer wasn't happy and tried to get me to take the vehicle but I simply could not live with the tow mirrors (need folding to fit in garage).

My Ramboxs and door alignments all looked perfect and spot on when I took delivery (of the 2nd order that is). However, rear door and rambox have since shifted (warped?) out of place.
 
Question for everyone....if you special order a 2019 RAM 1500 with the RAMBOX....do you have to take delivery of it when it arrives at the dealer if the RAMBOX lid is misaligned? Has anyone refused to take delivery of and if so...what was the dealers reaction?

I was going to refuse delivery, however the dealer said they'd book me into their body shop (different location) for them to try and align them. I might just do it myself while waiting for that appointment since it seems straight forward on how to adjust them (and this way don't need to worry about them damaging something else)
 
Wow

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 
What do you all think about this alignment? It bothered me when I first got the truck, but I have since forced myself to ignore it or it would drive me crazy. At least they close easily?

B7CFB0AB-EDD0-4F64-B367-26923E79F45A.jpegF31ABD5E-8473-4DB0-B5C0-6816F2CE98F4.jpeg2D25B39C-F444-408D-A121-D954DDA09584.jpeg3621A7C6-330B-4A44-BE64-A497111176E0.jpeg
 
Last edited:
That's what mine looks like. I'll try fixing it myself before letting the body shop have a go. They have replaced boxes before and same results so they won't replace them again.
 
What do you all think about this alignment? It bothered me when I first got the truck, but I have since forced myself to ignore it or it would drive me crazy. At least they close easily?

View attachment 33991View attachment 33992View attachment 33993View attachment 33994

Yikes! Have you checked your adjustable bumpers? They are adjusted with an allen wrench and are on the outside of the (open) plastic frame, almost like they are there to push the RamBox doors outward.

Are yours close in or far out? If out, then you can use an allen wrench to move them back inward and it might greatly reduce the corners of your doors so that they match up better.
 
Yikes! Have you checked your adjustable bumpers? They are adjusted with an allen wrench and are on the outside of the (open) plastic frame, almost like they are there to push the RamBox doors outward.

Are yours close in or far out? If out, then you can use an allen wrench to move them back inward and it might greatly reduce the corners of your doors so that they match up better.

Do you happen to have a pic of those adjustable bumpers?
Thanks!
 
Thanks! Too bad there isn't one on the top also

I've played with them and while they are on the front, they do affect the height of the top deck of the lid when closed due to the angle that they operate in. If you back them out, they will keep the top of the lid from going as low.

I was asking in the earlier post where the corners of the RamBox lid (where the painted face meets the black plastic bedcap top) seemed to be too far out compared to the metal truck bed. If these bumpers were fully extended (unscrewed) that could be causing/contributing to the problem. A lot of simple turns with an allen wrench would let you check that if you screwed them in more.

Just an idea.
 
I've played with them and while they are on the front, they do affect the height of the top deck of the lid when closed due to the angle that they operate in. If you back them out, they will keep the top of the lid from going as low.

I was asking in the earlier post where the corners of the RamBox lid (where the painted face meets the black plastic bedcap top) seemed to be too far out compared to the metal truck bed. If these bumpers were fully extended (unscrewed) that could be causing/contributing to the problem. A lot of simple turns with an allen wrench would let you check that if you screwed them in more.

Just an idea.
Thanks for pointing these out. I will try adjusting mine later
 
What do you all think about this alignment? It bothered me when I first got the truck, but I have since forced myself to ignore it or it would drive me crazy. At least they close easily?

View attachment 33991View attachment 33992View attachment 33993View attachment 33994

Actually, now that I've looked at yours a second time. I think the latches need adjusting to bring the lid down more and then your adjustable bumpers need to be moved outward to get the edges of the painted lids more in line with your metal bodywork. Make sense?

And this is where the art of bodywork comes in. That's not a simple two step process since adjusting the bumpers will impact the vertical height of the doors too. Could take a few iterations of both to get them mostly lined up. I say mostly as these are not designed to be made perfect, even with a lot of adjusting.

Also, making the lids tighter means they will be harder to close since you now have to compress more of the gasket around the opening. I have seen a few RamBox lids so loose from the factory that they didn't even touch the gasket, i.e. they were not waterproof.

I still prefer to do these sorts of things myself, and I'm no body guy by any means. It's just that even under warranty, there's no risk of an hourly tech messing something else up, forgetting a bolt, etc. and I can get everything tweaked well short of the time it would take to drive to the dealer and back. The only time I'd have the dealer look at these is if Ram came out with an updated part that could be replaced or I had it in for other multi-day work.
 
I adjusted the bumpers on mine and the doors are flush now. The height is still messed up. I do have a concern though. I had to back each bumper out 6 rounds. I think the installer just ran the bumper screws in until they bottomed out with no thought of how the door fit. Anyway I am worried about the screws coming all the way out now because they stick out so far. I would like to put some blue locktite on the screws but I don’t know what they screw into. If it is a captured nut or a threaded hole I will be alright removing the screws to put some locktite on. It it is just a nut on the other side, that could be a problem as I don’t want to completely remove the Ramboxes if I don’t have to. Does anybody know what those bumper screws thread into?
 
Actually, now that I've looked at yours a second time. I think the latches need adjusting to bring the lid down more and then your adjustable bumpers need to be moved outward to get the edges of the painted lids more in line with your metal bodywork. Make sense?

And this is where the art of bodywork comes in. That's not a simple two step process since adjusting the bumpers will impact the vertical height of the doors too. Could take a few iterations of both to get them mostly lined up. I say mostly as these are not designed to be made perfect, even with a lot of adjusting.

Also, making the lids tighter means they will be harder to close since you now have to compress more of the gasket around the opening. I have seen a few RamBox lids so loose from the factory that they didn't even touch the gasket, i.e. they were not waterproof.

I still prefer to do these sorts of things myself, and I'm no body guy by any means. It's just that even under warranty, there's no risk of an hourly tech messing something else up, forgetting a bolt, etc. and I can get everything tweaked well short of the time it would take to drive to the dealer and back. The only time I'd have the dealer look at these is if Ram came out with an updated part that could be replaced or I had it in for other multi-day work.
Thanks for pointing out that the bumpers are adjustable. To adjust the latches, will I have to completely remove the Ramboxes? I thought I read they have to be removed because of accessing the latch bolts.
 
I adjusted the bumpers on mine and the doors are flush now. The height is still messed up. I do have a concern though. I had to back each bumper out 6 rounds. I think the installer just ran the bumper screws in until they bottomed out with no thought of how the door fit. Anyway I am worried about the screws coming all the way out now because they stick out so far. I would like to put some blue locktite on the screws but I don’t know what they screw into. If it is a captured nut or a threaded hole I will be alright removing the screws to put some locktite on. It it is just a nut on the other side, that could be a problem as I don’t want to completely remove the Ramboxes if I don’t have to. Does anybody know what those bumper screws thread into?

Yes, they are captured nuts. You can definitely remove them and reinstall without issue.
 
Thanks for pointing out that the bumpers are adjustable. To adjust the latches, will I have to completely remove the Ramboxes? I thought I read they have to be removed because of accessing the latch bolts.

Maybe/maybe not. I outlined here how to remove the RamBox to adjust because I have an early build and the striker plate on mine has two bolts going one way and two others the opposite. That means you have to remove the RamBox to get to both sides to loosen. No idea what genius thought that was a good idea.

Some later RamBox builds have all four bolts accessible from the inside of the RamBox. Simply loosen (do not remove!) to adjust. I've actually thought about seeing if I can get those latches through parts.

 
Maybe/maybe not. I outlined here how to remove the RamBox to adjust because I have an early build and the striker plate on mine has two bolts going one way and two others the opposite. That means you have to remove the RamBox to get to both sides to loosen. No idea what genius thought that was a good idea.

Some later RamBox builds have all four bolts accessible from the inside of the RamBox. Simply loosen (do not remove!) to adjust. I've actually thought about seeing if I can get those latches through parts.


I wish mine had all 4 accessible! Mine is a later build but still has half and half. I need to remove my boxes anyways to inspect those spacers (washers) on the bottom to try and sink the box down more.
I wonder if all 4 bolts are needed anyways? I would think just the 2 you can reach from inside the box would be enough to hold the latch closed. Makes for easy adjustments later on.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top