Price negotiated from MSRP

[86grand]

So these numbers aren't EXACT, but based on my memory from our phone conversations. I was going to ask for a itemized sheet before I did anything Monday, and it was spur of the moment stopping in with my friend after I just sold my other car, but wanted to see the truck because it's been a very difficult task finding a quad cab with premium lighting and a sunroof. But here it goes, and like I said, not EXACT:

50,990 MSRP x 13.5(ish)% percent off (this is with 0% financing, so discounts are not as much). Say $6,883 off=

$43,850 adjusted price
+$2,646 tax
+$500(ish) admin and non tax fees
--------------------------------
=$47,252
-$5,000 down
--------------------------------
=$42,252 / 72 months = $587/mo

Ok, that looks better. Getting a much more difficult truck to find without special order with 13.5% and 0% financing seems pretty good. You may be able to negotiate a bit more when you get to sit with the dealer, but I'd be happy with it to get the truck i wanted. Not sure if they still have ram bonus cash or not, but you can get another $250 rebate with bonus drive.

 

[86grand]

Not trying to be mean, but if you are looking at monthly payment instead of price you are the type of customer dealers love. Those type of customers pay for the manager's vacations.

On a Big Horn you should be at 11% off MSRP dealer discount, minimum, before incentives or rebates. Their $500 dealer fee is on the high side, and about 1% MSRP of the truck price.

A lot of dealers don't want to sell trucks that bad in this sellers market. You may either have to pay more than the truck is really worth, or get the truck from a dealer farther away (and depending on how far, fly and drive or get it shipped).

Look at his reply to my first comment. He is around 13.5% and no interest for 72 months before even sitting down with the salesman.

 

[BowDown]

Thanks. I don't know how everyone gets such great deals around here. I've been bouncing between three different dealers for the past week, and they're all basically like "take it or leave it". Based off another dealer's quote on a very similar truck (which since sold), I believe this dealer should be able to knock the payment down another $15/month pretty easily. The truck is very tempting, because it's exactly what I want, but if it's a bad deal, I'll just hold off. That's why I came here first for advice.

You should not be concerned with the monthly payment, its going to be what its going to be. You need to be focused on the msrp and then dealer discount then rebates. On a BH, you should be looking at 17-20% off.

Getting a good deal takes time and educating yourself on the prices and discounts. If one of the "deal" dealers isn't near you, you're going to have to put some work in

 

[scottmoyer]

So these numbers aren't EXACT, but based on my memory from our phone conversations. I was going to ask for a itemized sheet before I did anything Monday, and it was spur of the moment stopping in with my friend after I just sold my other car, but wanted to see the truck because it's been a very difficult task finding a quad cab with premium lighting and a sunroof. But here it goes, and like I said, not EXACT:

50,990 MSRP x 13.5(ish)% percent off (this is with 0% financing, so discounts are not as much). Say $6,883 off=

$43,850 adjusted price
+$2,646 tax
+$500(ish) admin and non tax fees
--------------------------------
=$47,252
-$5,000 down
--------------------------------
=$42,252 / 72 months = $587/mo

This doesn't seem like a good deal, initially, but after re-reading your post, it sounds like a similar deal others are getting. If you're at 13.5% discount, and you're taking 0% instead of rebates, you didn't do too bad.

I took the $51k and subtracted 19% and I get a total of $9700 off MSRP. You were at $6700 off at the 13.5%, so a $3k difference. That $3k is about the amount of rebates? I haven't been following rebates since I bought mine, so I might be off here, but I think you're close.

 

[DAT84]

what area of the country are you in?

Pittsburgh, PA

 

[DAT84]

This doesn't seem like a good deal, initially, but after re-reading your post, it sounds like a similar deal others are getting. If you're at 13.5% discount, and you're taking 0% instead of rebates, you didn't do too bad.

I took the $51k and subtracted 19% and I get a total of $9700 off MSRP. You were at $6700 off at the 13.5%, so a $3k difference. That $3k is about the amount of rebates? I haven't been following rebates since I bought mine, so I might be off here, but I think you're close.

Yeah, I didn't think it was a horrible deal, considering 0%, but I knew there was some room for improvement.

 

[DAT84]

Here is a similar deal that was worked up by another dealer (truck has since sold). MSRP was $300 more due to a few other options, but was this a decent deal or no? Was going to use this to negotiate the total price down some more at the other dealer.

 

[Chuck19]

Here is a similar deal that was worked up by another dealer (truck has since sold). MSRP was $300 more due to a few other options, but was this a decent deal or no? Was going to use this to negotiate the total price down some more at the other dealer.

For me i say no that is not a good deal. I will use myself as an example. I just placed an order on a Bighorn with:
MSRP $54585
Sale Price $47484
Savings off MSRP $7101 about 13% off
Rebates $4000
New price of $43484
Savings off MSRP $11,101 about 20% off

By the way this deal above, i did not work hard for at all. it has been the easiest car buying process i have been involved with. Just have to find the right dealer and thanks to silent bobs thread which i linked below i did. for my situation i have some time to order and get exactly what i want. i could have gone to a local dealer and paid a little more for features i did not want or got a truck that didnt have the features i wanted but if im paying $40,000 plus i want to get what i want. Also all the trucks around me even if i could have found one that i was happy with would have cost me thousands more.

I checked with the calculator i linked below and it just solidified that the rebates would serve me the best in my situation.

Like i said in an earlier post if this deal works for YOU and fits your needs, timing, need for 0% financing, the truck of your dreams etc. only you can determine if its a good deal for you. but to me, purely looking at the numbers there is still some more room.

Check out Silent Bobs Link it is a wealth of knowledge and worth your time if youre looking to get into a new truck'

How to Get the Best Price on Your New Ram | 5thGenRams Forums

Use this calculator that Silent Bob linked in his post about 0% financing vs rebates. it should clear things up for you in regards to 0% financing vs rebates.

Auto Rebate vs. Low Interest Financing Calculator (dinkytown.net)

 

[Chuck19]

Pittsburgh, PA

How to Get the Best Price on Your New Ram

UPDATE: I am rarely updating this anymore so some of the information may be out of date. Check the most recent comments for new information. 2/11/22 With differing degrees of work you can get a good to great price on your new truck. We will start with the discounted price on the truck and cover...

5thgenrams.com

 

[ceefiore]

Kristian is a guy by the way. When I sent a request to him for a quote and mentioned 14% off MSRP was offered to me by another dealer that was further away, he refused to send me a quote and then would not respond to my follow up emails. Oh well.

oops

 

[WReckeR]

If you're going to include money saved on interest charges as savings off MSRP, are you going to also consider/add to MSRP the opportunity cost of missed income/returns you could have made investing $28.5k instead of putting it into a down payment on a depreciating asset? Putting 28.5 into the right investment over the life of your loan could have made you 100k or more. See the point?
I'm in no way saying that 0% isnt a great perk in a deal, but to include it in a % off MSRP calc muddies everything. Just food for thought.

First, considering investments has nothing to do with truck buying details. Second and more importantly, many incentives are treated as an either/or with special interest rates from Chrysler Capital. People say, I took the rebates because I would have lost them had I chosen 0%. Well, if you are financing, that might be a terrible decision. You need to calculate the finance charge with rebates through your preferred lender, then compare to 0%. You might save $2500 in rebates, but turn around and pay $5500 in interest. Since it is an incentive in and of itself, offered by the Chrysler Capital, how can you say it's irrelevant? Further, it doesn't vary like local taxes might, a reason they're excluded.

 

[Silent Bob]

Rebate vs. lower interest: Which car incentive is right for you?

If you have to choose between lower cost or lower interest. Link includes a rebate vs interest calculator. LINK

Auto Rebate vs Low Interest Financing

Rebate vs. lower interest: Which car incentive is right for you? It is nice when you can do both but often you have to make a choice. Do you want a lower monthly payment or a lower total cost? The below can be of help when making these decisions. When choosing which offer to take keep in mind...

5thgenrams.com

 

[slatersan]

First, considering investments has nothing to do with truck buying details. Second and more importantly, many incentives are treated as an either/or with special interest rates from Chrysler Capital. People say, I took the rebates because I would have lost them had I chosen 0%. Well, if you are financing, that might be a terrible decision. You need to calculate the finance charge with rebates through your preferred lender, then compare to 0%. You might save $2500 in rebates, but turn around and pay $5500 in interest. Since it is an incentive in and of itself, offered by the Chrysler Capital, how can you say it's irrelevant? Further, it doesn't vary like local taxes might, a reason they're excluded.

First, wrong. Factoring in opportunity costs ( like missed investments) of paying cash or putting down large down payments vs financing absolutely matter for the informed. Even more so when someone is factoring in 'money saved on interest' as a % off msrp calc. It totally varies in that if I took a $500 rebate for financing with Chrysler at X%, but paid the loan off the very next day, I paid the same finance charge as someone who took 0% ( minus a few bucks for the day maybe). Guy with 0 interest didn't save anything off MSRP by having 0 interest. In that example, I saved $500 more that the 0% guy by financing at X interest and paying the loan off, not to mention the rebates I got in lieu of taking 0%. But, I also tied up a big chunk of money into an asset that won't grow, so did I really do better, financially? Factoring what you would save on the life of the loan is valuable and IS an incentive ( you were actually right about that part), but is irrelevant to price negotiated off MSRP, which is the title of the thread.

Does someone with terrible credit get to cite that they would have had to pay 10% had they not taken the Chrysler 0% and then subtract 10% for 84 months from their total?

No, because thats stupid.

 

[69Safari]

Out of curiosity, when did you order. We emailed back in forth today and if I order I’m curious of current time frames. My current lease is up end of March.

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered my Limited from Aaron at Mark Dodge on Dec 28th. He said to expect it the end of March or first part of April. On Jan 21st, I got an email from FCA saying it would be delivered the week of Feb 14! I contacted Aaron on Feb 19th and he called the factory and reported back that it had not even been built yet. He got a shipping date of Feb 25th and expects to see it delivered in Lake Charles in late March...about what he thought in the first place.

 

[NJT3]

Does Fca control number work with on the lot trucks too not just factory orders?

 

[Silent Bob]

Does Fca control number work with on the lot trucks too not just factory orders?

If you are talking about affiliate pricing (FFP) or employee pricing (EP) the answer is yes.

 

[bob225]

Thanks. I don't know how everyone gets such great deals around here. I've been bouncing between three different dealers for the past week, and they're all basically like "take it or leave it". Based off another dealer's quote on a very similar truck (which since sold), I believe this dealer should be able to knock the payment down another $15/month pretty easily. The truck is very tempting, because it's exactly what I want, but if it's a bad deal, I'll just hold off. That's why I came here first for advice.

I bought mine in Morgantown, they were better than the dealers in Pittsburgh. C. Harper in Connellsville had some good pricing but didn't have what I wanted.

 

[WReckeR]

First, wrong. Factoring in opportunity costs ( like missed investments) of paying cash or putting down large down payments vs financing absolutely matter for the informed. Even more so when someone is factoring in 'money saved on interest' as a % off msrp calc. It totally varies in that if I took a $500 rebate for financing with Chrysler at X%, but paid the loan off the very next day, I paid the same finance charge as someone who took 0% ( minus a few bucks for the day maybe). Guy with 0 interest didn't save anything off MSRP by having 0 interest. In that example, I saved $500 more that the 0% guy by financing at X interest and paying the loan off, not to mention the rebates I got in lieu of taking 0%. But, I also tied up a big chunk of money into an asset that won't grow, so did I really do better, financially? Factoring what you would save on the life of the loan is valuable and IS an incentive ( you were actually right about that part), but is irrelevant to price negotiated off MSRP, which is the title of the thread.

Does someone with terrible credit get to cite that they would have had to pay 10% had they not taken the Chrysler 0% and then subtract 10% for 84 months from their total?

No, because thats stupid.

I stated a qualifier, "if you are financing, that might be a terrible decision." If you and I buy identical trucks from the same dealer for the same price, but you get a 2.9% loan from your credit union and I get a 0% loan from Chrysler Capital, one of us has a better deal. And since the 0% is not out in the free market but is actually offered nationally, through Ram dealerships, from an FCA branded lender, and promoted on the Ram Trucks website, it IS a dealer incentive. You have to be able to identify which is the better deal if the 3rd party financed price is lower and the CC financed deal is a little higher because of removed rebates. It needs to be calculated. Is it a Ram offer? Of course it is. How much more of a discount would the dealer need to offer the 3rd-party-finance-rate buyer so that it was equivalent to the 0% rate? Calculate it, because that's its value.

No one is going to finance and then pay it off the next day. That's just silly and doesn't belong in your scenarios. If a buyer does intend to pay off a loan early, because he is waiting on lottery wins, or proceeds from a stock sale to become available, or for his rich dead aunt's will to be read and processed...GREAT! Obviously the total loan interest paid will be less. But that's really not the discussion I was making when I said "if you are financing, that might be a terrible decision."

The price off MSRP discussion that's regularly conducted here is absolutely fine and standardized. I have no problem with it whatsoever. Nevertheless, when choosing whether to accept 0% from Chrysler Capital, and with the intent of keeping the loan full term, interest avoided becomes a very serious consideration of which deal you accept. And yes, if your credit score disqualifies you, then price off MSRP is critical.

Good luck with your market investments. I eagerly await your offer to manage my or anyone else's nest egg with guaranteed rates of return.

 

[LeadWolf]

Thanks. I don't know how everyone gets such great deals around here. I've been bouncing between three different dealers for the past week, and they're all basically like "take it or leave it". Based off another dealer's quote on a very similar truck (which since sold), I believe this dealer should be able to knock the payment down another $15/month pretty easily. The truck is very tempting, because it's exactly what I want, but if it's a bad deal, I'll just hold off. That's why I came here first for advice.

No one has specifically said it yet, but you should stop shopping by "monthly payment" and start shopping by price of the vehicle. You can figure out financing on your own. Right now, you have no idea what you're paying for the vehicle or what the interest rate you'd be paying for. Remember, the dealer gets a piece of the financing pie too. So it's in their best interest to increase your interest rate a point or two.

 

[WReckeR]

No one has specifically said it yet, but you should stop shopping by "monthly payment" and start shopping by price of the vehicle. You can figure out financing on your own. Right now, you have no idea what you're paying for the vehicle or what the interest rate you'd be paying for. Remember, the dealer gets a piece of the financing pie too. So it's in their best interest to increase your interest rate a point or two.

That was the first Ram I fell in love with, Patriot Blue with Indigo/Frost. I think it's the most elegant and cosmopolitan. Like, if I wanted to step out for valet parking in front of the opera house, this would be the right truck for it. I came very close, but the dealer was too proud and really enjoyed looking at it on their lot. In fact, it's STILL there, and has been since October.