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Oil Preference?

HoosierTrooper

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Ok, and looking at the elevated calcium, molybdenum and ZDDP levels of the first two they look like straight Redline 5W-30.
 

Jeffrey_Sasquatch

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Royal Purple makes a nice sae5w-20 Full Synthetic Oil and Oil Filter. I recommend changing the oil atleast every 3500 miles.
 

UnloosedChewtoy

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Royal Purple makes a nice sae5w-20 Full Synthetic Oil and Oil Filter. I recommend changing the oil atleast every 3500 miles.

Changing a good quality full synthetic every 5k-6k miles like I do is a bit of a waste, changing it every 3.5k definitely is! The old days of 3000 mile oil changes are over my friend.

That being said, its your money, spend it however you wish. Just trying to save you some.
 

securityguy

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Royal Purple makes a nice sae5w-20 Full Synthetic Oil and Oil Filter. I recommend changing the oil atleast every 3500 miles.
Sorry, but if you are spending all of that unnecessary money on Royal Purple, and change it every 3500 miles, you are just pissing money away. Going at least to 5000 miles is a more reasonable approach. I use PP Platinum or Ultra with a high quality WIX-XP filter every 5K like clock work. Costs me under $30 for the oil and around $7 for the filter. As was stated by @UnloosedChewtoy ...your money, spend it however you wish :)
 

UnloosedChewtoy

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Does anyone here use Full Synthetic 0W-20? I live in SK, Canada and it gets cold here

5w20 is already pretty thin. I wouldn't unless your dealer tells you to, on paper (documented), so they cannot come back and bite you for using the wrong viscosity later. The odds they'd be able to tell the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 with an analysis are pretty low, buuuuuuuut you never know your luck.
 

HoosierTrooper

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Does anyone here use Full Synthetic 0W-20? I live in SK, Canada and it gets cold here
The difference in pumpability (flow) between 0W-20 and 5W-20 is relatively small and isn't really apparent until ambient temperatures are down to around -35C or so, and both oils will be extremely viscous at those temperatures. 0W oils are tested for pumpability using a piece of equipment known as the Mini-Rotary Viscometer at -40C while 5W is tested at -35C. That said, I fully understand you're interest in using 0W-20 if your area regularly sees temps of -35C or lower, but anything above that a 5W will work. A good block heater would help a lot as well. Since both oils are the same grade at operating temperature it's anyone's guess how FCA would feel about using 0W-20 instead of 5W-20.


5w20 is already pretty thin. I wouldn't unless your dealer tells you to, on paper (documented), so they cannot come back and bite you for using the wrong viscosity later. The odds they'd be able to tell the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 with an analysis are pretty low, buuuuuuuut you never know your luck.
The odds are extremely low. A simple, inexpensive UOA from labs like Blackstone or Polaris shows the oils grade at operating temperature at 100C (212F) but not the winter rating. To test for the winter rating FCA would have to submit a sample to be tested using either the Mini-Rotary Viscometer or Cold Cranking Simulator equipment which is quite expensive. Obviously FCA can afford to pay for the tests but would they since both are 20 grades at operating temperature, and could they prove the engine was damaged by using the recommended 20 grade viscosity but with a slightly lower winter rating? Who knows.
 

securityguy

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Amsoil is GREAT oil, but way overkill for a HEMI. Pennzoil Platinum or ULTRA, or any great quality oil will be just fine. Unless you can get Amsoil for about $20-$22 for 5 quarts, save your money and it won't hurt your truck at all.
 

jdefoe0424

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Amsoil is GREAT oil, but way overkill for a HEMI. Pennzoil Platinum or ULTRA, or any great quality oil will be just fine. Unless you can get Amsoil for about $20-$22 for 5 quarts, save your money and it won't hurt your truck at all.
All depends on how long you like to keep your vehicles, and how hard you work them. FWIW I am a dealer, but I'm not going to tell someone they have to run AMSOIL or else...just not how I am and not how AMSOIL even wants their dealers to act. I see the benefit to running it and like the reduced maintenance schedule with increased equipment life.

It is possible to get OE for almost $20 a gallon. If you'd like to know how send me a PM and we can chat about it.
Signature Series is probably overkill for anyone with a truck, unless they never tow with it. I would recommend would be XL. It carries a 12k mile change interval no matter what you do with it, towing or DD.
 

cervelo15

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All depends on how long you like to keep your vehicles, and how hard you work them. FWIW I am a dealer, but I'm not going to tell someone they have to run AMSOIL or else...just not how I am and not how AMSOIL even wants their dealers to act. I see the benefit to running it and like the reduced maintenance schedule with increased equipment life.

It is possible to get OE for almost $20 a gallon. If you'd like to know how send me a PM and we can chat about it.
Signature Series is probably overkill for anyone with a truck, unless they never tow with it. I would recommend would be XL. It carries a 12k mile change interval no matter what you do with it, towing or DD.
Prepping for a long road trip in a few weeks, I just did my first oil change today with roughly a few miles over the 2k mark. I used the XL Boosted knowing it’s a good quality oil to protect my baby. I’ve used Amsoil in 2 of my previous Silverado’s.

Side topic: anyone have any other issues getting the factory installed oil filter off? Mine was murdered and crushed by the time I finally got it off. Seriously, it looked like a crumpled up paper cup. I did discover that it’s easier to come at it from the front right behind the grill. I was able to sit up with my head between the grill and the frame and have a good vantage point to see it. Used the baggie trick as well and worked like magic!
 
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Jako

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Prepping for a long road trip in a few weeks, I just did my first oil change today with roughly a few miles over the 2k mark. I used the XL Boosted knowing it’s a good quality oil to protect my baby. I’ve used Amsoil in 2 of my previous Silverado’s.

Side topic: anyone have any other issues getting the factory installed oil filter off? Mine was murdered and crushed by the time I finally got it off. Seriously, it looked like a crumpled up paper cup. I did discover that it’s easier to come at it from the front right behind the grill. I was able to sit up with my head between the grill and the frame and have a good vantage point to see it. Used the baggie trick as well and worked like magic!
Threads on people's experience with their oil changes. You are not alone.
 

cervelo15

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securityguy

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Kirkland full synthetic. Get a 4 pack of 5 quart jugs for $55.
Their oil is very good...I would have no issues using it. People that are spending ridiculous money on high-end oils are crazy IMPO. They truly will not do any more for any your engine than the cheaper quality fully synthetic oils. If you want to go 12K - 20K miles before an oil change, now that may be another story. However, great quality oils are cheap enough that changing your oil every 5000-7500 miles certainly cannot hurt and I just can't get myself to trust going beyond 10K regardless of what any oil manufacturer may say.
 

grimreefer

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I used Red Line for the first oil change, but I'm switching to PUP 5W-20 and am going to stick with the Royal Purple filter every 5K miles.
 

silver billet

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Their oil is very good...I would have no issues using it. People that are spending ridiculous money on high-end oils are crazy IMPO. They truly will not do any more for any your engine than the cheaper quality fully synthetic oils. If you want to go 12K - 20K miles before an oil change, now that may be another story. However, great quality oils are cheap enough that changing your oil every 5000-7500 miles certainly cannot hurt and I just can't get myself to trust going beyond 10K regardless of what any oil manufacturer may say.

I'm one of those crazies lol. Nothing but Redline 5w-30 for me. Only reason is due to hemi tick, a lot of users have mentioned how Redline quiets the tick and so for me its a cheap and preventative, that along with Blackstone oil analysis reports. It could be confirmation bias, but I swear it runs quieter on Redline too, the theory is because of the high amounts of moly. I do get it on sale, sometimes half a year ahead, so far every oil change I've gotten 45% off the regular cost so not too bad.

But yeah if I went through trucks like you do, there really is no point in doing that :)
 

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