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Oil Preference?

I agree on the full synthetic too. But the blend synthetic is how they are making it look so appealing in the add. But after you get there they will offer to add the wheel balance and full synthetic costs to the 39.99 taking it to about 75 to 100 bucks each time if one agrees to upgrade . The 99.99 deal is if you buy all three at once up front with same results. IMO.:)
I’m one who would do the 3 for $99 deal and don’t particularly care about the semi-synthetic vs full synthetic debate. I don’t tow and moved away from AZ’s severe duty heat, so I’m ok with my 3-5K change intervals (or more likely 2x a year due to low miles). Now if I towed or hauled heavy loads then it would be full synthetic. Might as well. Everyones needs are differing.

Blackstone Labs oil analysis program anyone? Lots of people swear by them and don’t change fluids very often. May not be smart during the warranty but afterwards...
 
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I’m one who would do the 3 for $99 deal and don’t particularly care about the semi-synthetic vs full synthetic debate. I don’t tow and moved away from AZ’s severe duty heat, so I’m ok with my 3-5K change intervals (or more likely 2x a year due to low miles). Now if I towed or hauled heavy loads ten it would be full synthetic. Might as well. Everyones needs are differing.

Blackstone Labs oil analysis program anyone? Lots of people swear by them and don’t change fluids very often. May not be smart during the warranty but afterwards...
Each to their own way of doing oil changes is great. Advertise each as to what it is before many run to the dealer was all I'm saying.If its full syn. say so if its blended say so. Personally I buy it from Amazon and use full Syn. changing oil myself.Garage down the street said the would change it for 15 bucks and me furnish all,but I don't know what would go in my vehicles so I do it myself and know what I got.
 
Is everyone changing the drain valve on the first oil change?
 
I was a Mobil1 die-hard for a number of years, then switched over to the PUP for the first few oil changes in my LS3, but after doing some research and looking at measurable data I decided to go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability in that and now use it in the RAM.
 
I read a little but didnt see it mentioned anywhere. The SRT Engineers have been quoted saying that Molybdenum is beneficial for VVT function. Most oils I have searched have little to none. I have used Amsoil Signature Series for years and I can tell the power transition around 3k rpm is much smoother when running this oil. Its much more noticeable the longer I go between oil change (usually 7k miles)
 
Each to their own way of doing oil changes is great. Advertise each as to what it is before many run to the dealer was all I'm saying.If its full syn. say so if its blended say so. Personally I buy it from Amazon and use full Syn. changing oil myself.Garage down the street said the would change it for 15 bucks and me furnish all,but I don't know what would go in my vehicles so I do it myself and know what I got.
Got it. I would let your guy down the street make/clean the mess as long as I could watch it being done.
I took the Ford Edge to a local fast lube place Sunday, that's the 1st non-Ford oil change in the truck's 50K. I was able to get a 25% off discount for being a veteran, and then was able to watch the entire process. The only thing they didn't do was close the hood fully and reset the oil life, however they didn't spill oil all over the frame or engine compartment and that was appreciated.

I gather on the RAM the oil filter is a bit of a PIA...
 
Curious - in my 2011 Tundra I used Toyota's 0W-20 full synthetic oil and had zero issues in the Texas heat. Any particular reason FCA specs 5W-20 instead of 0W-20 for their 5.7L Hemi?
 
lot of oil specs now have to do with squeezing every mpg out of the engine, which includes using 0W-20 which runs like water. Since we live in the south I usually run 5W-30 in everything to keep it simple (have 6 family cars to look after). We dont need 0W cold weight since we arent that cold in the winter. I refer to those thin thin oil weights as yankee weights so they start up in -20deg easier
 
Lots of good information on here! Back in my mining days I was a lube mechanic on a fleet of haul trucks. They used v16 Caterpillar engines. These things ran balls to the wall 24/7. We changed oil at 250 hours and used a conventional 15-40 oil. If I recall correctly, they had a TBO of like 10000 hours. A little Cessna 172 Continental 4 cylinder engine has a TBO of 2000 hours. We conducted regular oil analysis and an engine rebuild was $250,000. An engine with a catastrophic failure was considerably more. It was never about the brand of oil but the frequency of preventative maintenance (oil changes) and the additive package. Any brand of oil with the latest API rating will perform adequately. Use what makes you feel good, but your "AmsOil" (just randomly chose this brand) isn't doing you any magical favors over "Mobile 1" (just randomly chose this brand). Kinda funny how our dad got 400K miles out of that old C10 pickup back in the 60s using conventional oil.. The best case for synthetics is our brothers in Canada..... COLD COUNTRY ;)
 
I would agree, its more how often you change (maybe filter quality as well) and the additive package that make a bigger difference. (For example, changing at 5K is preferable to 10K).

Of course the “oil wars” always have their brand adherents just like (omigosh) the truck brand wars have :unsure: Likely truth is, if you were given the keys to a newish Ford or GM pickup for free, you’d probably drive it and “suffer” with the differences. Same with oil, if I won a lifetime supply of X brand high quality automotive oil of the correct viscosity and API rating, I’d use it and not consider others. o_O

Course I’m a boring old guy who, having had all 3 US brands of trucks over the last 45 years, is just happy to have a nice new one.
 
I would agree, its more how often you change (maybe filter quality as well) and the additive package that make a bigger difference. (For example, changing at 5K is preferable to 10K).

Of course the “oil wars” always have their brand adherents just like (omigosh) the truck brand wars have :unsure: Likely truth is, if you were given the keys to a newish Ford or GM pickup for free, you’d probably drive it and “suffer” with the differences. Same with oil, if I won a lifetime supply of X brand high quality automotive oil of the correct viscosity and API rating, I’d use it and not consider others. o_O

Course I’m a boring old guy who, having had all 3 US brands of trucks over the last 45 years, is just happy to have a nice new one.

Such an acculturate post....Seems as long as the motor has all impurities flushed often (Oil Change and Filter) they run out for a long time. The new synthetics are much better for motors that have set for awhile when fired up and extreme cold and heat,but Condensation still occurs as well, which is hell on any motors. One that gets driven today and sets for three or 4 days then driven again condensates more and when started up it has no oil in top side (upstairs) part of motor from oil draining to back to bottom of block from upstairs. Never start a cols motor and take off,never run a motor 7000 or miles with no oil change with synthetic is my personal moto. 3000 miles or less with old style dyno oil.
 
I had just read on a lawnmower forum that synthetics are the ticket for these small engines, there was a comment that Amsoil has a demonstration truck they have never changed the (synthetic) oil in with over 300k miles. They only give it filter changes.
I wouldnt dare try that!
 
What specification oil is delivered in 2019 rams
Is regular oil or full synthetic better for startup lifter noise
 
Dealer told me the 19 ram came with syn.oil. I think its regular oil myself. The lifter noise on a cold start up for just a second or two is where lifers are drained from setting.....its going to do it imo on any type oil you run with no issues to the motor since the motor will out last the trucks normally.The syn will leave more lube on the lifters after sitting more over the regular oil will. Do this and see what you think next time you are changing oils or near two oils in the garage....grab a large flat blade screw driver, dip flat blade end in regular oil then hold flat blade end upside down with thumb and forefinger .....then do the same thing with syn. oil. You can hold the flat blade with regular oil but not the syn.so much. Syn . will help with lifter noise and reduce the resistance on a cold motor start up.
 

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