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I’m not 100% on this but likely 2.5” net. It replaces the entire front spring and strut. Good news for you is if it’s 1” taller in the rear already and you’re using a rear spacer you’re already 1” higher in the rear bc you’ll use the factory springs. Be sure to post a pic once you do this. I’d like to see what your truck looks like after
I bought my ready lift kit on Amazon for 600. cheaper then anywhere else. But also bought 5100's for up front.Chatted with two different people at RC. Nobody can tell me what is in the kit that makes it $200 more than parting out the individual components. They just assure me that it's "cheaper if i get the kit".
Both guys closed out the chat when I pressed the question. Seems shady to me. I'm going to get the individual components but with the $200 difference it makes me wonder what's in the kit that I'm missing.
Maybe I should go with ReadyLift, Maybe I just need to let it go
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But basically you are lifting it 3.5inch, which would be like me lifting mine 4.5 inches. Anything over 3.5 will be creating some bad angles. That why all the 4inch kits have all the extra components. There kits say not to be used with org. But if you buy the kit that comes with new strut and spring. Then yes. You are really only getting 2.5 inch of lift. So just bought buy the kit where you reuse your spring.
What ended up being the best solution for this issue? I am picking up my 2022 Laramie night edition on Monday morning. I was going to go with a RC 3.5” level kit with struts. I have Kenda Klever RT 35/12.5r22 tires on order. I am guessing I will have the same problem as you and I need to go a different route. Can I do 2.5” level instead or is a 4” BDS my only option?
I have the RL 3.5” kit. Running 35x11.5R22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Everything fits great and has the stance and look I was after. Problem is the wheel hub/knuckle makes contact with the Lower Control Arm. And by contact I mean that it has cut into the metal in full turn aka trying to park. Had the shop call Readift and they said they knew about this issue and we should just grind down the points of contact. The other issue is that with 35’s it seems to be exceeding the maximum span of the OE parts. Because there is a very noticeable negative camber. I am working with another custom shop now to see how to correct this. Is anyone else having this issue?
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I see no one has replied to you. No you cannot do the Bilstein's and the top hat. It would destroy your front end. You can set the Bilsteins to about 2.8 inches and have a much nicer ride that the RL kit. Keep the UCA's on. Carli, Icon, and Eibach all make 1.5 inch longer springs and you could get rid of the spacers.
What did you end up doing? I’m trying to figure out all the math for my Rebel right now. I’m looking at just getting the RC 3.5” loaded struts and UCA and that is it. Right now with the factory 1” lift my front end is 2” lower than the rear. So putting in the RC struts would net me 2.5” and make the front end about .5” higher than the rear (and hopefully after some settling pretty level).
To follow up on my previous post, I went with 2” RC loaded struts and for the Rebel it was enough to make the truck pretty level
Sorry man, I've been off the forum for a bit. I haven't had time to do anything yet plus all the math had me thoroughly confused. What parts list did you end up going with? Was it just the RC loaded struts? Do you have pics before and after? Would love to get a lift but I'm stuck with stock rubber until it's time to replace (then bigger). Will most likely stay with the stock wheels.
2” loaded struts and replaced UCAs
Which strut and what uca? I'm going down from a 3.5" to a "2 level lift and have been shopping around trying to find what I want. I was going to go el-cheapo and just get the 2" block for the front to see how I liked it and if I had rubs anywhere, then eventually upgrade to the bilsteins and new control arms for peace of mind but don't want to be breaking the bank for the whole thing, again.
rough country for bothWhich strut and what uca? I'm going down from a 3.5" to a "2 level lift and have been shopping around trying to find what I want. I was going to go el-cheapo and just get the 2" block for the front to see how I liked it and if I had rubs anywhere, then eventually upgrade to the bilsteins and new control arms for peace of mind but don't want to be breaking the bank for the whole thing, again.
Slightly older pick of it before I plasti-dipped the whole front grill red (will be shading it down now though because way to much red) and a headache rack with a customized light bar installed on it.
Nicknamed "RAMbo Edition" or
"Umbrella Edition" (RESIDENT EVIL FAN)
Not sure which one I like better yet.
If you still have this truck would you mind measuring the floor to fender heights front and back. This truck looks amazing
I have the same question. Fronts are starting to wear out. Was considering either the RC 3.5” N3’s or M1’s but was curious about the lift height difference, if there is any
