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Haven't decided yet. I've got 34s on new and they are brand new so new tires wont happen for a while. I'll replace them toward the end of next year and will either go with a wider 34, or a much wider 33.
I have not recalibrated. I called the dealer and they said they do not have the capability to do it on the 2019s so yours may not be able to do it either. There are a few programmers out there but I can't see the dealership using one. I will be buying a Pulsar pretty soon to take care of that. I try to be mindful of it, but I have a heavy foot. If my speedometer shows 70, I'm really going 75. If it shows 80 (which is quite often haha) then I am going 86-87. Really need to get that fixed. It also makes my gas mileage look worse. I'm really getting an extra 1-2 mpg than what the cluster tells me.
This will probably be the route I go when I get new tires. I will have to dig into specific specs. Depending on the brand/model of tire, some 305/55s are as tall as some of the 295/60s. I'm guessing you had to trim because of your offset. I'm running a +10, and may use a small spacer to bump it to 0 offset when I do new tires to give better clearance. I've got Bushwacker flares going on so that will take away some clearance as well.
Well done, looks tough!
The struts are the same regardless of what side they are on. You may have to use a small bit of elbow grease to get them lined back up.
Doowork did a video walk through, right when it gets to the point where they are reinstalling the strut with the spacer on top you can tell it doesn't fit. The video goes black and in the next scene its the truck sitting there complete with the wheels back on it. This tells me he didn't want anyone seeing the method they used to get it back together. Another guy on here mentioned loosening the out board axle nut to get more wiggle room out of the front half shafts but not everyone has a socket and torque wrench big enough to start messing with that.
Something sounds like it isn't right. Are you sure you put the correct Readylift UCAs on the proper side? If you installed them on opposite sides it could be trouble. Just trying to think of possible scenarios. I had zero issues when I installed my Readylift UCAs and spacers. I did have to slightly twist the passenger side strut to get it to line up but it was minimal. The driver side went straight in. Did you already tighten the upper mounts for the strut assembly? What I did was put the top in first, but only put the nuts at very top and did not tighten at all that way I had plenty of wiggle room. I waited until after I had the bottom bolted up tight before tightening the top. This gave me a little bit more play room when lining up the bottom strut mount.
My experience was similar to KSN but I had to twist both sides a little to get the bottom bolt in. It sounds like you have the UCA's in the right orientation, the small hole in the tube faces the rear. Check your front drive shaft it sounds like the out side joint has slipped out and was binding up creating a block. Before you start raising the lower control arm make sure you can freely turn the hub by hand and the half shaft turns smoothly. If it binds up what happened is when you pushed lower control arm down and the spindle is flopped over to the outside of the truck to make room you over extended and slipped the joint on the CV not a big deal, just gotta make sure its back in the right place before you start raising the lower control arm. this happened to me on the Ram, and on my GMC when I put the level kit on it.
